15-16

We arrived Milan via train, so easy. The central train station is huge and bustling.

We negotiated our way into the metro and rode it to the neighborhood of our AirBnb, which was well placed right off a main artery: Via Torino, yet off a courtyard in a very quiet building on a side street. After picking up some groceries and settling in, we set off to explore the Old City. We passed the Biblioteca Ambrosiana, which urged us in with the promise of the Atlantic Codex of Leonardo DaVinci; we made a mental note to return. (turns out this was the back anyway).

Further along we came to Piazza Cordusio where the court of the Lombard dukes once stood. It was later the financial hub of Milan until the 2010s when the financial institutions transferred to skyscrapers. Today it’s a social and commercial hub.

**Assicurazioni Generali building, built in late 19th century**

**Italian Credit Palace** **(UniCredit), built 1901**

Meandering northwest from Piazza Cordusio on Via Dante, we passed street artists, shops, cafes, and sooooo many people! We took our time to take in our surroundings. We were falling in love with Milan.

Further along Via Dante we passed the Monument to Giuseppe Garibaldi (1807-1882), a national hero as a general and later politician.

At the end of Via Dante stands the Castello Sforzesco. It was built in the 15th century by Francesco Sforza, Duke of Milan, on the remnants of a 14th-century fortification. Later renovated and enlarged, in the 16th and 17th centuries it was one of the largest citadels in Europe.

We walked around the castle grounds, but it was getting late, as evidence by the lights starting to come on, and we had a dinner reservation.

We retraced our steps down Via Dante and before turning onto Via Torino, we found ourselves in front of the Duomo, which we planned to come back to with more time, but could not resist admiring it lit up.

Dinner was just what a first night in Italy should be: pizza at Rossini.

The next morning we were up and out for our walking tour, which met in front of the Duomo. At the top of the plazza is a statue of Victor Emmanuel II (1820-1878) who in 1861 became the first king of a reunited Italy (since the 6th century).

In the plaza we met our guide Marco.

Although we met in front of the Duomo, Marco led us away to some of Italy’s history before returning to this important structure. First he showed us the snake-eating-man symbol, also known as a Biscione, which was the symbol for the influential Visconti family (1277-1477). (It is also a reference to Dante). He told us their reign is known as the second golden age of Milan. The first was in the 4th century. The Visconti family symbol is now the symbol for Milan and also has been adopted by several companies including a local TV channel, a soccer team, and Alpha Romeo cars.

As an aside, Marco told us that the local dialect used by Dante for his poetry is what is today called Italian. He then took us by The Church of St. Anthony

He shared with us the story of why shingles is called “St. Anthony”s fire” in Italy. St. Anthony, always pictured with a pig, as he is here, used pig fat to calm the symptoms of shingles.

Next we visited the Church of San Nazaro, dating to the 4th cetury (Milan’s first Golden Age), it is one of the oldest churches in Milan. It is the oldest Latin cross church in the history of Western art. In the 4th century, Milan was the capitol of one of the four regions of the Roman Empire, and was the first region to allow Christianity.

There have been many changes to the church through the centuries, especially after a fire in 1077. The remnants of the 4th century Roman building can be seen in the part of the wall seen with the brick herringbone pattern, a typical Roman technique.

While here Marco gave us much more Milan history. The city was completely destroyed twice. The first time was by the Ostrogoths in 476. The second was by Frederick Barbarossa of the holy Roman Empire in 1162. He was known as the Kaiser Rotbart, which in English means “Emperor Redbeard.” He leveled most of the city, which then came under the rule of the Holy Roman Empire.

Our next stop was a former hospital of Milan which, started in 1456, remained a hospital until the 1930s when it was deemed not modern enough. It is now part of the Milan State University. It was built by the Sforzesco family (same family as the castle above). Francesco Sforza was the son-in-law of Visconti. The last Visconti duke died in 1447 without a male heir. Sforza was the duke of Milan until 1499 when Milan was invaded by France and was then a province of a foreign country until Italy was reunified in 1861.

At the time the hospital was built, it was the largest in Europe. It was also the first hospital to be devoted to actual recovery (rather than palliative care or as a shelter, which is what hospitals were at the time). At the main gate monks would assess, ie triage, and if a person was felt to be terminal, they were sent elsewhere. It was the first hospital where patients had their own bed (imagine!) and a semi-private bathroom facility. And all of this including meals was free to the patients; it was the first public hospital. The funds initially came from the founder Francesco Sforza, but later from private donors.

The hospital was the highlight of Milan in its time, made famous in 1510 by Martin Luther who described it in one of his journals.

Marco the took us by Via Laghetto. He explained to us that in ancient and medieval times cities with waterways for transportation were those that prospered. Milan needed to dig canals to connect the city with waterways elsewhere in Europe. One was dug in the 1100s, connecting Milan to Switzerland, and the second in the 1400s, connecting Milan to the rest of western Europe. Right before the French invasion in 1499, Milan was one of the most advanced, richest, and most populated cities in Europe. In the 1400s, the canals were used to bring in all the marble for the Duomo from the Candoglia Quarry. Where Via Laghetto is now was then a pond where the marble was offloaded, then taken by cart to the Duomo building site. The pond has since been filled in and covered in concrete.

Finally we headed back toward the Duomo, a legacy of the Visconti family. It was paid for by the Duke as a way of “buying” his title of Duke for independence for Milan from the Holy Roman Empire. It was started in 1386 in the Gothic style, which was already out of vogue in Europe. It is the only Gothic style church in Italy. The main spire was finished in 1774; the front was finished in 1814; the last gates were completed in 1965. It is the largest Gothic church in the world. Part of the reason it took so long to complete was the sacking of Milan by the French in 1499 after which the funding dried up except for private donations.

Atop the main spire is Mary, known to the locals as Madonnina because of how small she looks from the ground. In actuality, she is 13 feet tall and stands at a height of 355 feet. At the time she was placed there in 1774, she represented the highest point in Milan and it stayed that way, by decree, until 1960 when Pirelli finally won a variance for his skyscraper. Pirelli’s building, at 417 feet was higher, but in deference to her tradition, he placed a smaller version of the Madonnina atop his building; as has every building since that has reached new heights. “My Beautiful Small Lady” is the anthem of Milan.

In addition to Mary, there are over 3,400 statues in and on the Duomo.

The most amusing statue is on a balcony on the front of the church. The two are labeled as New Justice and Old Justice.

The one on the left: New Justice looks very similar to Lady Liberty in NY harbor, though she predates our gift from France by over 70 years.

Next Marco took us to the Galleria, a shopping center built to celebrate the reunification of Italy. It opened in 1867. In 1865 Milan had become the second city (after New York) to have electric lights. The Galleria was truly the gentrification of the area with it’s upscale shops and restaurants.

He explained to us that all the central shops are Italian; the French are only on the outer portions of the cross shaped space. All the shops must have uniform signage of gold lettering on black.

The paintings over the entrances represent the Italian flag of the reunification with its red cross.

Outside the galleria and across the street is the Scala Theater for performances in music, ballet, and opera. After a fire had destroyed the previous theater, La Scala was commissioned and built in 1778. The new theatre was built on the former location of the church of Santa Maria della Scala, from which the theatre gets its name. As with most of the theaters at that time, La Scala was also a casino, with gamblers playing in the foyer. In its first 34 years patrons would use their boxes for social life, business meetings, and even fornication during the performance. But in 1812 Rossini made his debut here followed shortly by Bellini, Donizetti, and later Verdi, four of Italy’s most famous composers. Since then, most attendees have actually enjoyed the performances at la Scala. The theater opens for its season every year on December 7, the feast day of Saint Ambrose, patron saint of Milan. Unfortunately, the entire building is currently enclosed for renovations.

Marco next took us to the Piazza Mercanti, which, created in the middle of the 13th century, was the center of political and city life in medieval Milan.

If a merchant could not pay his debts, all his goods were confiscated then his desk (Banco in Italian) was brought to the square and broken (rotto in Italian). Banco-Rotto was the origin of the word bankrupt and not just in English. Marco asked at least 6 people how banco-rotto is pronounced in their language and it was amazingly similar in every language.

The last place Marco took us was to see L.O.V.E., commonly known as il Dito (Italian for “the finger”), a sculpture by Italian artist Maurizzio Cattalan (1960- ). The name L.O.V.E. is the acronym of “Libertà, Odio, Vendetta, Eternità” (“Freedom, Hatred, Revenge, Eternity”).

The sculpture is located in Piazza degli Affari, where the Italian stock exchange is located. Maurizio Cattelan has never disclosed the exact meaning of the sculpture. The two most accepted explanations are 1: that it represents both a critique of the Fascist salute and 2: that it is designed as a protest against financial institutions after the 2008 financial crisis. The stock exchange building was built during fascism by architect Paolo Mezzanotte and completed in 1932. But as Marco pointed out, if the first option is true, why is the finger pointed away from the stock exchange toward the viewer?

After lunch we mustered up enough energy to return to Biblioteca Ambrosiana. We got audio guides to learn about Federico Borromeo (1564-1631), Cardinal Archbishop of Milan. During his stays in Rome between 1585 and 1601, he developed the idea of a cultural institution of a high artistic, literary and scientific level. He started a collection which has been built upon through the centuries. During the Napoleonic plundering of Italy much of the contents were stolen and transferred to France. Most have since been returned. The first few rooms of the museum contain works obtained by the cardinal himself like this Titian in 1618.

One of the most precious artworks in the collection, and in the city of Milan., is the The School of Athens by Raphael (1483-1520). It is the largest renaissance cartoon that has survived to this day, and was made by Raphael as a preparatory work for the Stanza della Segnatura room in the Vatican, which was commissioned by Julius II. It entered Federico Borromeo’s collection in 1626, when he purchased it from the widow of Fabio Borromeo Visconti for the massive sum of six hundred imperial lire. Although it is known as The School of Athens, the more exact title is Philosophy, as suggested by the allegory of the same subject painted on the vault above the fresco in the Stanza della Segnatura, as part of a very complex iconographic project. At the centre we see the two greatest philosophers, Plato (painted with the likeness of Leonardo, with his finger pointing upwards and identifiable by the Timaeus he is holding, one of his works that had enormous influence on later philosophy) and Aristotle, who is identified by his book of Ethics.

The collection includes non Italian artists, especially from the school of Flanders, like this Still Life by artist Jan Brueghel the Elder (1568-1625), one of the first Still Lifes known.

Later additions include sculptures, jewelry, and pieces like this hollow deer for serving wine. Below can be seen a pair of gloves worn by Napoleon Bonaparte.

The Biblioteca Ambrosiana is full of treasures, even the walls like these mosaics.

The courtyard is full of statues.

Even the ceilings are works of art.

There is an entire room devoted to works by DaVinci (and this is only one of 4 museums in Milan with works of his). Most famous is this self portrait.

But what had drawn us into the Biblioteca Ambrosiana was the library itself and the DaVinci Atlantic Codex.

In December 2019 Dolce and Galbana donated the Chiaravalle tower clock. The large clock in fact reproduces the complex astronomical machine of the Chiaravalle Abbey completed according to the intuitions of Leonardo da Vinci illustrated in the pages of his Atlantic Codex, which is exhibited in the same room.

And finally, what we came for. The posted sign says it all best.

Fun fact, DaVinci wrote his codexes in mirror writing, ie backwards; no one knows why, but there are many theories.

**single sheet of the Atlantic Codex describing air lift**

**an original bound Atlantic Codex volume**

After a very full day it was early to bed anticipating Howard’s and Georgia’s arrival in the morning. After they dropped their luggage and an early coffee, we set out independently. Eric and I had booked tickets to the Duomo. But first we wanted to go back to the Galleria, which is right next to the Duomo, and spend a little more time looking around.

It had been so crowded with people during our tour that Marco walked through briskly making picture taking difficult. Due to the presence of elegant shops and clubs it has been a meeting place for the Milanese bourgeoisie since its inauguration. It has been nicknamed “drawing room of Milan.” It is among the most famous examples of European iron architecture, as seen in the balustrades below, and represents the archetype of the nineteenth-century shopping gallery and is often considered one of the first examples of a shopping center in the world.

At the intersection of the arms of the Gallery is the space surmounted by the dome, called “octagon” due to its shape obtained by cutting the four corners at the intersection of the two orthogonal galleries. The floor of the octagon hosts a large central mosaic representing the coat of arms of the House of Savoy.

The tops of the four walls resulting from the cut are each decorated with a painted
lunette, 15 metres wide at the base and 7 metres high at its maximum, each representing a different continent.

**Asia represented sitting on a throne where natives and other men with Asian features pay homage to her with gifts**

The floor of the octagon celebrates the historical 8 capitals of Italy, represented by their shields, plus Milan, which was never a capitol. Tradition says that rotating three times on oneself with the right heel in correspondence with the genitals of the bull depicted in the mosaic on the floor in the center of the octagon brings good luck. The gesture was originally performed as a mockery towards the city of Turin, whose coat of arms depicts the bull, and then spread simply as a superstitious rite . This ritual, repeated often every day, mainly by tourists, quickly wears out the image of the bull, which must be restored frequently.

And now it was time for the Duomo. We had bought the “Fast Track” tickets online which meant we were to ride the elevators up to the terraces first (rather than climb the nearly 300 stairs). We were let out first on the lower terrace, which was good because I needed to get used to the height. The terraces measure over 86,000 square feet over the two levels.

It was very interesting to be able to see the gargoyles (called falconaturas because they are actually for drainage of rainwater) up close. There are 150 gargoyles.

There are 135 spires. Of note, there is no bell tower. There are bells internally, but they are only rung on a few high holy days throughout the year. The bells heard daily are a recording.

It seems by their placement on the terraces that some statues were never meant to be seen from the street. The terraces were built for visitors to the Duomo.

There were plaques along the way explaining some of the history. Across from the terrace the Venneranda Fabbrica building can be seen. It holds, preserves, and restores all of the documents related to the Duomo. During WWII the building was damaged by shrapnel but the large clock on it’s top was saved, supported by the statues of Day and Night.

The Carelli spire was the first built, named for Marco Carelli who, near his death in 1395 donated 35,000 gold ducats (about 30 million dollars in today’s money). Although named for Carelli, the statue is of King George.

We climbed further to reach the upper terrace.

This plaque shows damage done to a spire during the WWII bombings.

Today that spire has been restored,

From this height one can see modern Milan in the distance.

Finally we climbed the last 90 steps up to the roof. The main spire was built between 1765 and 1770. In the mid 1800s it almost buckled from the weight; a metal rod was inserted for stability.

The pages of photos and text seen to the right give tribute to all those who are needed to constantly maintain and repair the marble. Seen up close, the different colors can really be appreciated. The white is the newer marble, still recovered from the same Candoglia quarry. As the marble ages it becomes first gray then black then begins to crumble.

Also from up here, though still far away, the Madonnina is close enough for a photo. She is 13 feet high, made from 33 copper plates, is covered in 600 sheets of gold leaf, and weighs over 880 pounds. In August 1943 she was wrapped in sheets of burlap so her shine would not attract bombers.

I particularly liked this small statue. There are so many of Mary in this cathedral dedicated to her.

As we began our descent, we got views of the city from the other side.

Finally we climbed down and entered the cathedral.

There are 52 pillars and 5 naves.

Over the entrance is the Assumption of Mary.

Right by the entrance is the tomb of Castrelli (I guess he deserved a primo burial spot after the gift of 35,000 gold ducats).

Also at the front of the church is a sundial. In medieval Italy before clocks, time was told by where a ray of light shone through a hole in the roof and landed on the floor below.

The floors are marble throughout.

Near the front, opposite the entrance, is the Baptismal Font.

There are 164 large stained glass windows featuring more than 3000 characters. In each of the world wars more than 50 workers removed and wrapped the stained glass windows during the bombardments.

This one depicts the life of Christ with His birth at the bottom and the Crucifixion at the top.

There is a large monument in the apse behind the main alter.

One of the side chapels, which is dedicated to Mary,

shows a statue in relief of Mary as a small child.

The organ is in the high alter.

At the top of the high alter is a cross with a red light. The red light signifies where an original nail from ‘the cross of Jesus’ is kept. It is brought out every December 14th for 40 hours.

After a snack and a rest, we set out again to see the Castello Sforzesco. Along the way we passed these ancient ruins from the 4th century.

When we arrived at the castle we were dismayed to learn that the museum is closed on Mondays. We were able to spend some more time exploring the grounds of the castle.

Now that the Visconti family shield had been pointed out by Marco, we saw it everywhere.

The Rocchetta courtyard had frescos that had been plastered over. They were revealed during an early 2010s renovation.

The restoration is yet incomplete on purpose to save some of the frescos for future generations.

The vaults are adorned with the Sforzo family emblems throughout.

Another courtyard is called the elephant courtyard because of the elephant fresco revealed on the portico painted to look three dimensional with its surrounding architectural structures.

We walked through the castle out the back and saw what had been the moat.

We headed to the park behind. From there we could see the Unicredit Tower in the distance.

In another direction we could see Porta Sempione (“Simplon Gate”), the city gate. The name is used both to refer to the gate proper and to the surrounding district The gate is marked by a landmark triumphal arch called Arco della Pace (“Arch of Peace”), dating back to the 19th century. We headed over.

Beyond the gate our love affair with Milan intensified. We are ready to move into this neighborhood, if even for a little while.

With the tree lined streets, the 1880 tram, and the gorgeous buildings, what else does one need?

Just look at this apartment building: exquisite.

we could even peek into the ceilings: to-die-for

even a cute restaurant right on the block.

Heading back through Sempione Park, we went a different route and found this playground.

including a little traintrack. Took Eric back to his childhood days.

We even saw an exercise class happening in the park.

We saw what looked like a huge stadium and poked ourselves in to find a high school track event.

We passed back through the castle which was now lit up for the night.

We were then passed by a dining tram, a first for us. We have seen dining trains and boats, but never a tram.

Our perfect day was topped by a perfect meal at Andry’s. One of the anecdotes told on the audioguide inside the Duomo was that of an artist who, while working on the yellow windows, as a prank, put the flower pistons he was using for dye into the risotto, and to the surprise of all, it was delicious. And so Milanese risottos (with saffron) was born. We tried it with shellfish, and it was truly delicious.

There is soooo much music, art, history, sooo many museums, and sooo many restaurants, we felt we had barely scratched the surface of this city. We hope to come back and stay for a month or two next time.

In the morning we took the metro back to the central station to pick up our rental car nearby. In the plaza outside the station we saw this, probably for the store brand, but for a New Yorker, who can resist a “Big Apple” photo shot?

We drove north to Como where we had a room rented in an apartment building right by the water. We walked by the lake, but the weather was a bit cold and damp, so we headed toward the old part of the town. Our first stop was the Duomo di Como, reputably last Gothic cathedral built in Italy. Construction began in 1396, and although considered Gothic, it has Romanesque, Renaissance, and Baroque architectural style elements.

The 286-foot-long and 246-foot-wide cathedral has a Latin Cross plan. There are three naves and a Renaissance transept topped by a stunning dome.

There is also a sundial, albeit different from the one in the Duomo of Milan.

Attached to the Duomo is the town hall, Broletto di Como (Old Town Hall). “Broletto” is an old term derived from the Medieval Latin word “brolo.” A brolo was a broad, walled field where people could have town meetings. Eventually, the brolo or broletto became the Town Hall. Today, it is a venue for exhibits and events. Originally erected in 1215, the Old Town Hall style is now a melange of Gothic-Romanesque-Renaissance elements.

These buildings sit in a cute square

with elements of the iron architecture seen in Milan.

Next we visited Basilica di San Fedele (Basilica of Saint Fidelis). Saints Fidelis, Carpophorus, and Exanthus are celebrated as saints and martyrs in Como. Legend has it that they were three soldiers bent on converting pagans around Como. Ultimately they were martyred. The Basilica of Saint Fidelis is dedicated to one of these third-century martyrs. The church was erected in 1120 over a Christian church from the 7th century. The building features a Romanesque architectural style.

The ceiling is a barrel vault with a bone-arched pediment.

As we ventured further into the old town we happened into this square.

Here we found a statue of Volta. Alessandro Giuseppe Antonio Anastasio Volta ( 1745-1827) was an Italian chemist, physicist, inventor of the first electric generator, discoverer of methane gas, and inventor of the Voltaic Pile, the first electrical battery. He was born and lived out his last days in Como. The monument to Volta was erected in Como in 1838. Volta stands atop the high pedestal in a toga. His left-hand holds a book. The right-hand rests on the Voltaic Pile.

We then headed back toward the lake. We passed through Piazza Cavour (Cavour Square), the main square of Como and the heart of the historical center of the city.

We crossed back toward the lake.

There we spied Life Electric, a sculpture celebrating Volta. It sits on the end of the Breakwater Pier (Diga Foranea) and was inaugurated in 2015. Life Electric was inspired by the tension between two poles of a battery.

For dinner we headed back into the old town to Rive Enoteca, a restaurant charming in every way, including the centerpieces.

We enjoyed another Milanese saffron risotto, this time with chunks of ossobuco. Rive Enotica also had a self-serve wine bar, a new experience for me. Between us we were able to taste 7 different wines with our 3 courses, heaven.

Unfortunately, the next day the weather turned cold and rainy. We drove and met Howard and Georgia in a cute restaurant by the lake in Malgrate. But once we got back to Como we hunkered down for the rest of the day.

Switzerland: Zurich Oct 7-9, 2024; Lugano Oct 10-11, 2024

We arrived in Zurich on an absolutely gorgeous warm sunny day. We were immediately struck by the size of the train station with 44 tracks on two levels and one of the largest shopping malls we have yet encountered. It is the largest railway station in Switzerland. The city’s central location in the continent has historically made it a railway hub. It currently serves over 2,000 trains per day, making it one of the busiest in the entire world. In front is a monument to railway pioneer Alfred Escher.

Walking from the station we crossed the Limmat River and got our first view of the Old City.

We easily found our hotel St. Josef, which was just below the university and right on the edge of the Old City. We dropped our luggage and headed out. Nearby we found the large city library which is attached to The Preacher’s Church (Predigerkirche), which dates back to 1213 when it was run by the Dominican monks. The building features Gothic forms, with one side visible from the street and the other side integrated into the city’s central library. Today it is a Protestant church.

We headed further down the narrow winding medieval side street and came out on Niederdorfstrasse, a pedestrian-only cobblestone street that parallels the eastern shore of the Limmat River. It is full of pubs and cafes. There we found Schwarzenbach Kolonialwaren, an historic gourmet grocery store and coffee roastery that has its origins in the family business that was established by Heini Schwarzenbach in 1864 and by now has become one of the most recognizable and popular destinations for local foodies and tourists alike.

The store is known for its impressive variety of products of high-quality and superb flavor such as dried fruits, natural honey, jams, syrups, rice, wine, chocolate and sweets, as well as other gourmet items, not to mention a great choice of coffee beans and teas sourced from all over the world.

We continued down toward the river and there found the Rathaus: Town Hall, which dates to the 1690s. It was the seat of the Republic of Zurich until 1798.

Connecting the Rathaus to the other side of the river is a large pedestrian bridge known locally as Rathausbrücke. The bridge is a public square, known as “vegetable bridge” since medieval vegetable markets were held here. This is the historic center of the city, back to when the Romans called the town Turicum. The bridge is so large there are buildings on it.

**view across the Limmat River from Rathausbrücke**

We continued our exploration of the Old City (Altstadt in German) and found Saint Peterskirche (Saint Peter’s Church). Built in the 9th century, it is the oldest church in Zurich. Up until 1911, a firewatcher manned the steeple. It was his job to look out the windows four times an hour to look for fires. If he spotted a fire, he was to sound an alarm and point to the direction of the fire with a flag. Apparently, this ended up being an effective strategy because, unlike many other European cities, Zurich never suffered any devastating fires.

It also boasts the fame of having the largest clock face in all of Europe, measuring 28.3 feet in diameter. This translates to a minute hand that is 18.8 feet long.

We continued winding our way through the narrow streets full of interesting houses and shops.

We stopped for a drink at a cafe in Münsterhof, historically the main square and marketplace of the medieval city, and noticed we were right next to Fraumünster, one of the oldest and largest church in Zurich. In 853 Emperor Ludwig founded a Benedictine convent on this site and his two daughters (Hildegard and Bertha) became the first abbesses of the convent. In 874 a basilica with a crypt was added. The crypt, which is still in the basement of the church, holds the relics of the martyred two Patron Saints of Zurich, Felix and Regula. The present church on the site dates from the mid 13th century. Reformation closed the convent and in 1524, the last abbess donated the church and abbey to the City of Zurich. All icons and religious imagery were destroyed.

The church underwent a remodel in the 1970, with the installation of beautiful stained glass windows by Marc Chagall. We had to go in and see.

Fraumünster reflects a hybridization of Romanesque and Gothic styles due to constant construction and remodeling over the centuries.

We chose an audio self-guided tour which explained the history of the church, which included the tale of the two sisters Hildegard and Bertha who were said to have been directed by God to choose the location of the church (and then became its first abbesses), as depicted in this fresco by Swiss artist Paul Bodmer (1886-1983 CE).

There is an 18 foot high stained glass window by artist August Giacometti on the north transept from 1945 depicting saints and angels

There is a beautiful rosette located in the church’s south transept.

But what we were really there to see were the Chagall windows.

The choir of the abbey includes 5 large stained glass windows installed in 1970. Each of the 5 has a dominant color and depicts a Biblical story.

From left (northern wall) to right, the 5 works are:

Prophets: depicting Elijah’s ascent to heaven

Jacob: displaying his combat, and dreams of heaven(blue below)

Christ: Stages of his Life

Zion: showing an angel trumpeting the end of the world

Law: with Moses looking down upon the suffering of his people

Back outside in the sunshine in front of Fraumünster on the bank of the river we found a statue of Hans Waldmann who was an ambitious military leader. He achieved great fame when he and the Swiss Confederates decisively defeated Charles the Bold in the Burgundian Wars in 1476. In 1483, Hans Waldmann was elected to the leading position of mayor of Zurich.

As we crossed the river, we were able to look back and see the Fraumünster more completely.

Also as we crossed the bridge, we got our first view of the Alps as seen over the Zimmat River.

What awaited us on the other side of the bridge was another iconic landmark of Zurich: The Grossmunster Church with its Romanesque architectural style.

The Grossmunster Church holds significance as the birthplace of the Swiss-German Reformation. In 1520, Huldrych Zwingli, a key figure in the Swiss Reformation movement, initiated reforms from his pastoral office within this church. Zwingli’s debates, which he triumphed in before local authorities in 1523, led to the church’s separation from papal authority. Today its twin towers stand tall and dominate the cityscape.

A statue of Emperor Charles the Great (Charlemagne) adorns the southern tower of the Grossmunster Church, commemorating his reign as Holy Roman Emperor from 771 to 814. Known for uniting much of Western and Central Europe, his legacy extends to language, with many European terms for “king” deriving from his name. The statue portrays Charles holding his sword, with his crown seemingly slipping from his head.

The reforms spearheaded by Zwingli and later continued by Heinrich Bullinger left their mark on the church’s interior. In 1524, iconoclastic actions saw the removal of religious imagery and the organ.

The interior including the stained glass windows are somewhat modern in appearance.

In the basement is the original statue of Charlemagne; the exterior one is a replica.

Outside the church we had a decent view of the city below.

Also outside the church we found a statue of Huldrych Zwingli.

For dinner we headed back to Niederdorfstrasse to a cute place called La Pasta.

To be honest, Zurich was not our favorite city in Switzerland. The fountains do not have the beauty nor historical and cultural significance as those in Bern.

although some are indeed pretty old

and they do provide fresh potable water

The frescos are neither as plentiful nor as spectacular as those in Lucerne

and the architecture also not as amazing as Lucerne

But what Zurich has best is shopping. We thought we had seen tons of high end shops everywhere, especially in Geneva. But nothing compares to Bahnhofstrasse, Zurich’s main shopping avenue. It is mostly pedestrian-only, with tram access to the city’s transportation network. Bahnhofstrasse begins at the Zurich HB central railway station, which fronts Bahnhofplatz (Station Square). From there, it continues southwards until the shore of Lake Zurich at Bürkliplatz. Along its route, the street passes through several famous Zurich town squares, including Paradeplatz. This is a notoriously expensive real estate zone, where you will find the Swiss banks headquartered, which is where we decided to start our explorations the next day.

On the southwest corner of Paradeplatz sits the flagship store of Sprüngli Confectionery, synonymous with Swiss chocolate and confectionery excellence since 1836. They sell luxurious chocolates, exquisite pastries, and their famous macarons. Their shops are everywhere including the train stations.

We headed north on Bahnhofstrasse and saw every high end retailer we have ever heard of and so many more.

and more banks.

and more chocolate. We stopped at the flagship store of Teuscher Chocolates. Their handmade truffles and pralines are crafted with the utmost care and love of the trade.

What they are most known for is their champagne truffles in either milk or dark chocolate sprinkled with confectioners’ sugar or cocoa powder respectively.

We deviated off Bahnhofstrasse to see this cute shop: Steiff Gallerie. Established by artist Margarete Steiff, who pioneered the creation of the stuffed elephant in 1880, this innovation eventually led to the birth of the iconic Teddy Bears in 1906. The Zurich outlet embodies a delightful assortment of plush wonders, featuring classic teddy bears, arctic and marine creatures, exotic animals, delightful keychains, as well as beloved rocking horses, elephants, and bears, all synonymous with superior quality. Unfortunately for us, it was closed as they prepare their Christmas displays.

We also had to go by Prétôt Delikatessen which offers a curated selection of gourmet products, including fine wines, cheeses, and prepared meat items (charcuterie).

We made our way back to Bahnhofstrasse, passing so many stores along the way, so many interesting buildings.

and yet another flagship chocolatier: Läderach, whose treats we had sampled first in Bern and had been enjoying in every city since. Läderach was founded in Ennenda, Switzerland in 1962 by Rudolph Läderach. Since 2018, this family-owned business has been run by the third generation of Läderach chocolatiers. In 1970, Rudolf Läderach Jr. invented a revolutionary process of manufacturing thin-walled hollow balls for truffles, rendering the professional manufacture of chocolate truffles easier and significantly improving their quality, taste and texture. In 2008 the company launched a new brand: Läderach Chocolatier Suisse, timed with the opening of confectioneries in their spacious boutiques on Bahnhofstrasse, Zurich and Spitalgasse in Bern. In 2018, Elias Läderach beat 19 international competitors to win the title of World Chocolate Masters in Paris. Today Läderach stands not only for finest premium products, but also for a family-minded social responsibility, fostering ecological thinking. Of course we bought more.

We reached the train station then headed, passed the National Museum of Switzerland

then headed back across the river toward our hotel. But we decided before heading in to take the Polybahn, a funicular railway, up to ETH Zurich, a public research university founded in 1854 with the stated mission to educate engineers and scientists, the university focuses primarily on STEM programs.

The university sits high above the city.

Across from the main university building is the Museum of Natural Histroy. I took this picture because it shows the first hints of autumn.

In the morning we had enough sunshine for another lake excursion. We headed to Bürkliplatz to buy our boat tickets. Bürkliplatz, where the river empties into Lake Zurich, is one of the main squares in Zurich. Not only is it a fabulous destination, but it is also a central node in the city’s transportation scheme including trams and boat excursions. At the end of the plaza is a lake overlook, featuring a prominent statue of Ganymede.

We were so happy to be out on the water again.

Although this boat is not as old nor as unique as those on Lake Geneva.

One of our first observations about Lake Zurich was how much more crowded its shores are than the other lakes we have visited.

It was not until we had been on the lake a while before we got our first glimpse of the distant alps.

I want to take a minute here for an aside. This was our third lake trip, and I have not yet mentioned the vineyards visible on the shores of all of them.

We have been ordering Swiss wines with dinner. We have been told by the wait staff that Swiss wines are pretty much never exported both because of the low supply and also because they cannot compete on the international markets with neighbors France and Italy. We have not much loved any of the whites we have tried, but we find the Pinot Noirs quite good.

The boat made several stops along our way, one in the winery town of Stäfa.

Our destination was Rapperswil-Jonah.

Upon arrival we stopped for lunch before exploring the city. Once seated, we headed into the main square

on which is the cutest art gallery full of nothing but elephants in every size and material imaginable.

We embarked on the climb

toward the Rapperswil Castle, which was built between 1220 and 1230 on a rocky spur that extends far into Lake Zurich. It is surrounded by water on three sides and was thus well protected for centuries. Visible from afar with its high towers, it dominates the cityscape of the old town of Rapperswil below.

We took a moment to congratulate ourselves on the climb and check the view.

Next to the castle is Stadtpfarrkirche St. Johann (St. John’s Parish Church), a Roman catholic parish church built in the 1220s.

In 1489 the adjacent Liebfrauenkapelle (St. Mary’s chapel) was built, the cemetery chapel that still exists.

The cemetery lies between Liebfrauenkapelle and the castle.

Walking around the castle back toward the lake, there was a large park in front of the castle with a deer park. The origins of today’s town are described in the following legend: One morning, the Lord of Rapperswil , together with his wife and some servants, drove across the lake to hunt. They had barely reached the shore when his dogs tracked down a doe and pursued her to the top of the rocky ridge. Here the animal was hiding in a cave. When the hunters reached the cave, they saw that there were two calves in addition to the doe. The woman took pity on the animals and persuaded her husband to withdraw the dogs and spare the doe’s life. At midday, the count and his wife were resting in the shade when the doe appeared and laid her head in the woman’s lap to thank her for saving her life. The count was touched and ordered the three animals to be brought to Altendorf and raised in an enclosure. He saw in this event a sign from heaven and decided the very next day to build a new castle on the rock and a small town on the southern slope. Today, the deer park near the castle commemorates this 800-year-old tradition.

The park extends all the way down to the port.

The view from the park includes the distant alps.

Time for another aside. One observation we have made that I have not yet commented on is this: in every city we have visited in Switzerland there has been at least one park with one large chess board.

We walked back past the castle, past the church, and took a picture looking back.

then we continued on past the State Museum (Stadtmuseum).

Rapperswil is often referred to as the “town of roses” (Rosenstadt) because of its extensive displays of roses in three designated parks. No less than 15,000 plants of 600 different kinds may be viewed between June and October. Alas, we were a bit late for the blooms.

Heading toward the train station we passed the Town Hall (Rathaus).

Finally we hopped on a train back to Zurich.

We decided while we were in a university area, we should try a beer hall for dinner. We headed to Rheinfelder Bierhalle, a no-frills brasserie for schnitzel, sausages, fries, and beer. The vibe was invigorating.

The next morning we were on our way once again, this time to Lugano, our first and only stop in an Italian Canton in Switzerland, the Ticino. As soon as we passed into the Ticino region the announcements on the train switched from German to Italian. And as soon as we stepped out off the bus from the train station into the Old City of Lugano, we could feel the cultural changes. The bus left us at the plaza right in front of our hotel: Hotel International au Lac.

with a church on one side of the square

and shops on the other.

the cultural clincher was our room

and our view

We explored the hotel a bit to see the pool and play area

The lounge has a 24 hour “honesty bar.”

The quote from their website: “We are proudly managing our hotel in the fourth generation, opened in 1906 by our great-grandfather. Renovating our hotel and preserving its historic charm is a rare blend that we constantly seek. Roberto Schmid There is so much history throughout the hotel including this ode to eras of telecommunications and the hotel business.

After exploring the hotel, we decided to explore the Old City a bit. We passed a salumeria whose picture needed inclusion due to the size of the salamis.

We strolled past statues

and so many interesting buildings

and shops

and street art

and by fountains.

Several private residents offered a glimpse into their inner courtyard. This prior palace was particularly welcoming.

We passed the local church

and peeked in

A little train rides through the streets escorting tourists.

And of course we strolled along the lake.

At some point we stopped for a pleasant outdoor dinner. In the morning we were out early. Our plans were for a boat tour of the lake, but we had enough time for a stroll through the park first. Parco Ciani is the largest park in Lugano. A historic residence built in the early 1830s by the Ciani brothers, members of a Blenio family based in Milan since the eighteenth century. It had several subsequent private owners until in 1912 it was acquired by the Municipality of Lugano which converted the park into a public promenade and the villa into a museum.

Composed of a very rich subtropical flora and Mediterranean vegetation, it has the privilege of a prime location on the lake shore.

In addition to wide pedestrian path, the park boasts several statues

a large playground for children

and a special olive tree garden within the park: The Garden of the Righteous.

It was time to head back and climb aboard

We stopped in several ports of small towns on our tour of the lake.

There were so many seemingly isolated tiny towns or even individual homes, we were wondering how they had access. But then we were able to make out the road winding around the mountains.

Finally we approached our hop-off town: Gandria.

Once on land we immediately started the climb into the narrow passages of this medieval town.

We wound back and forth, up and down through the town

until we decided we had earned a drink and a snack.

Alas we reembarked our boat for the journey back. But we got off at the stop on the other side of the lakeshore from our hotel so we could stroll through the tree lined portion of the lake promenade.

We waived to the ship as it sailed back to Lugano Center.

To our delight we discovered the lake promenade is actually a statue park right in front of the Museum of Culture..

Belvedere Garden is an 11,000 square meter garden filled with 14 modern and abstract sculptures by local Ticino artists.

a bust of George Washington sits where the Villa Tanzina used to stand, though I have no idea why he is there.

After a rest, we headed back to the lake for dinner and a goodbye to Switzerland.

Switzerland: Lucerne Oct 2-6

We went to the Interlaken train station and bought a ticket to Lucerne but were told that the first part of the journey would have to be by bus due to the track needing repairs from all the rain. The bus journey to the next station was only about 15 minutes. Along the way we passed numerous small waterfalls and dairy farms: the source of all that milk for the cheese and chocolates we have been consuming.

The train ride to Lucerne was also quite scenic passing several cute towns, lakes, and mountain views along the way.

Once off the train, we were immediately struck by how much larger a city Lucerne is than those we had visited thus far. The train station, which is also the bus depot, is large with over 2 dozen bus routes.

As instructed by our VRBO host, we hopped the 9 bus to the end, a steady uphill climb, to our apartment, which had a great view of the Old City Walls: Museggmauer (Musegg Wall) and towers. The wall and nine towers were built in the 13th century. With much of it still preserved, it is one of the longest defensive walls still standing in the country

and the distant view of a hotel high on a hill across the river

Once settled, we hiked back down into the Old City to have a look around. First we passed these neighbors, funny to find in the city.

They were sitting in this cute park right below our building.

Along the path we passed this gorgeous holly tree full of berries.

What was immediately striking was that fountains in Lucerne, although plentiful and still a source of fresh drinking water, are not nearly as beautiful nor as integral to the history and culture of the city as they had been in Bern.

We made it down to the river and found the Chapel Bridge, originally built in 1333, it is oldest covered wooden bridge in Europe and the world’s oldest surviving truss bridge.

It is a famous tourist spot and one of the most photographed sites in Lucerne.

The Chapel Bridge was named for Saint Peter’s Chapel nearby; it stretches diagonally across the Reuss River. What makes this bridge special is that it has some old triangle-shaped paintings inside from the 17th century. Unfortunately, many of these paintings were destroyed in a fire that happened in 1993, which also damaged most of the bridge. Thankfully, they fixed the bridge but were only able to recover 30 of the paintings.

Across the bridge can be seen the Jesuit Church (Jesuitenkirche).

A Catholic church which, built in the mid-seventeenth century, it has the distinction of being first grand Baroque-style church constructed in northern Switzerland, situated above the Alps. Now it is an integral part of the cityscape.

Further along the Reuss River is a second covered bridge: Spreuer Bridge. The original bridge was constructed in the 13th century connecting the old mill to the newer side of the city but was destroyed by a flood in 1566.

It was rebuilt shortly thereafter, which was when the paintings were added, 45 of which have survived. The paintings are the largest known paintings of the Dance of Death during the late Middle Ages, and which have now created the nickname “The Dance of Death Bridge.” These two bridges are the only in Europe that house these triangular framed paintings.

We crossed to the other side of the Reuss River.

Once on the other side we strolled along the riverfront with its monstrous annual flower pots still blooming.

and were able to have a better look at the buildings we had passed including Town Hall (Rathaus).

and Pfistern Hall

more on these last two buildings later. But now it was time to cross back and stop for a beer.

Dinner our first night was in the Rathaus Brewery, which was delicious.

In the morning we set out to more thoroughly explore the Old City. We learned that in German schmuck means jewelry. (So Yiddish schmuck=dick, ie penis: the family jewels?)

We passed so many pastry shops and chocolatiers. Also fun was the spectacles shop.

There are seemingly random works of art on buildings.

and several charming statues

What is most striking about the Old City of Lucerne are the many buildings with beautiful mosaics.

Once again we crossed the river to take the funicular up to the Gutch Hotel, another steep climbing train.

The view from there of the city was amazing, not only the river, but also Lake Lucerne can be seen.

And a great view of the first tower and a part of the Musegg Wall.

Once on river level again, we continued our city self-tour. Old City Lucerne is such an interesting place to wander through, full of so many architecturally interesting buildings either because of, as mentioned above, their frescos like these

and this really fun one

or because of the woodwork like this one

or because of the stonework

many for the gorgeous flower pots

and some just for the architecture itself

Two standout buildings are the Rathaus, seen from in front above, which is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful historical buildings in Lucerne. Construction began on Rathaus in 1602 and was completed in 1606. Here is the tower in the back.

The other standout building is Pfistern Guild Hall, also seen from the front above. It is one of the last standing guild halls in the city. The name Pfistern comes from the Latin “pistor”, which was what the Romans called bakers. The Germanization of the word turned it into “Pfister”. The Pfister Guild initially united artisans, bakers and millers, and was founded in 1408. The guild house was the noble gentlemen’s meeting place to discuss politics and business, not forgetting some great food and drinks during the process. Shortly before the guild was dissolved in 1875, the house was auctioned for 80,000 Francs. A century later – in 1977 – after numerous ownership changes, the property was acquired by the Lucerne Association of Pastry Bakers, thus reverting to its original purpose.

On the side of the building is a mural of the Pfistern family tree hung with coats of arms.

Our tour continued on to the Church of St. Leodegar, a 17th century Roman Catholic church completed in 1639. Yet the history of the church can be traced as far back as the 8th century. An older church once stood on the site where the Church of Saint Leodegar now stands, built around 735 or 736. Unfortunately, that building burned in 1633. All that was left behind were two Romanesque towers. Many consider the Church of Saint Leodegar to be the most important example of a church using Renaissance architecture in Switzerland.

We next passed through a very touristy square on which sits the Old Swiss House.

The souvenir shops there have, in addition to the usual stuff, an amazing selection of cuckoo clocks.

We finally made our way to what is one of the most renowned landmarks is Lucerne: the Lion Monument, a carved rock sculpture located in Lucerne, Switzerland. It was crafted in 1820 to honor the memory of the Swiss Guards who tragically lost their lives in 1792 during the French Revolution.

The Lion Monument measures an imposing ten meters in length and six meters in height. It is dedicated to honoring the loyalty and courage of the Swiss. The sculpture depicts a dying lion impaled by a spear, with a shield bearing the emblem of the French monarchy covering its body. Adjacent to the lion, there is another shield bearing the coat of arms of Switzerland. Mark Twain famously referred to this sculpture of a mortally wounded lion as “the most mournful and moving piece of stone in the world.”

Dinner was typical Swiss fare including spaetzle and maluns in an historic building at Restaurant Bündnerland.

The next day was overcast with threats of rain, so we postponed our lake adventure. But while inquiring about boat tickets, we noticed a lot of activity beyond the ferris wheel, which was turning for the first time since we had arrived.

We stumbled onto the Octoberfest Lunapark fair that opened that day and would remain for 2 weeks, how lucky for us!

It was a combination of a market and an amusement park.

There were all the usual handmade products like leather goods and hats

and several booths with jewelry.

The market included all kinds of typical Swiss products including cheeses

sausages

smoked game

and this one with all kinds of strudel

Several carts claiming Swiss treats had an item called mogenbrot. We looked them up and they were compared to British “digestive biscuits,” so we gave them a try. Not a fan. Dense, sweet, but tasteless.

We chose to buy our bratwurst at this cute grill.

There were also plenty of non Swiss food choices including Chinese

French

and Spanish deserts

As for fair treats, they had both of Eric’s favorites: candy apples and cotton candy

The international options were not only food. They had dreamcatchers from the Americas.

beaded trinkets from Thailand

didgeridoos from Australia

and cork products from Portugal.

Games included those for the macho

the wild west shooting range

and even little duckies for the kids.

The rides also spanned the ages from children

to the bigger kids

(with an American theme)

to the rides for the more adventurous (not me, not ever)

But my personal favorite item at the fair was this concert organ. I only wish I could upload a video not only for the music, but for all the moving parts.

Once we had our fill at the fair, we decided to walk off the food with a climb to the towers. Not only did we look out onto them from our apartment, but we walked through the wall every time we went down into town. The rain had finally stopped enough that it was time to take the climb. There are 9 towers but only four that can be climbed, the first of which was right in front of our place, so we started there, which is the sixth tower (counting from west to east): Schirmerturm (Umbrella Tower). In the passage of the tower there is a statue of one of the city’s patrons, Saint Mauritius.

Above the gateway is his shield.

The Schirmerturm is a gate tower, built in 1420 and is one of the smallest of the towers. We climbed the 96 steps leading to the top floor. From there we not only had a view of the city

but also of our apartment, shown below we were the very top floor with the small terrace. It seems a typical Swiss apartment is the entire floor.

We were able to walk along the top of the Musegg wall to the next tower: Zytturm – one of Europe’s most unique clock towers. seen from below

The clock mechanism was made in 1535 and is still working; it famously strikes the hour one minute before all the other clocks in Lucerne.

We continued along the wall to the Heuturm/ Wachtturm – a former hay storage from the 14th century, destroyed by gunpowder explosion in 1707; rebuilt as a watchtower. We climbed down from there and walked at ground level past the 3rd and second towers to the first tower: Nölliturm which was built in 1513 and is the only round tower on the Musegg Wall.

We strolled around to the front of the Musegg wall to get a better look at the second tower: Männliturm (Little Man), a 15th-century tower

renowned for its “Little Iron Man” crowning the top

From here we had a view of the Spreuer Bridge from the other side.

We passed into yet another square hosting a market.

Dinner that night was a delicious meal at Anton’s

The morning, although still very overcast, did not portend rain, so we embarked on our adventure. We boarded the boat

and immediately started snapping pictures of the surrounding mountains laden with clouds.

After about an hour on Lake Lucerne we arrived in Alpnachstad.

From there we caught a cogwheel train up to Pilatus

and stepped off the train into a winter wonderland.

We were able to look back at the train track we had just climbed

and see the many brave souls who chose to hike the mountain rather than ride the train.

There is a restaurant

in front of which was a Swiss musician

There is also a hotel aptly named the Bellevue

From this high up looking out the other way, Lake Lucerne can be seen almost in its entirety.

Zooming in, the Ferris Wheel can be discerned way in the distance.

Neither words nor pictures can do justice to the beauty of Pilatus

but I will try.

The distant mountainside is dotted with houses.

Pilatus legends include stories of dragons. We entered the dragons’ den.

Finally, it was time to head home which was to be a different route from which we came. I had to muster the courage for a ride on the cable car.

Down we went for about 15 minutes to the town of Fräkmüntegg

There were all kinds of fun parks including a very long alpine sled and zip lines.

We stopped for a hot chocolate before boarding the gondolas

for a 30 minute ride

down to the town of Kriens. Along the way we noted how many of the homes have green roofs. Also, plantings on terraces are plentiful as in this apartment building.

Finally, in Kriens we caught a 15 minute bus back to Lucerne. Tired, we stopped at Pickwick’s Pub for fish and chips for dinner while the locals watched football (ie soccer) on the telly.

Switzerland: Bern Sept. 26-28; Interlaken Sept. 29-Oct. 1

We hopped a train from Lausanne to Bern, arriving in the rain. The rail system here is just so easy to navigate. We checked into our VRBO, which was well placed int the heart of the Old City, steps away from the cathedral. After dropping our luggage and throwing a load of laundry in, we were ready to explore this charming city.

Bern is the de facto capitol of Switzerland, referred to as the federal city. With a population of about 133,000 (as of 2022), Bern is the 5th most populous in Switzerland. Although fortified settlements were established since antiquity, the medieval city proper was founded by the Duke of Zähringer in about 1191. According to the local legend Zähringer vowed to name the city after the first animal he met on the hunt, and this turned out to be a bear, “bern” in German. Bern joined the Swiss Confederacy as early as 1353. Since then Bern became a large city-state and a prominent actor of Swiss history by pursuing a policy of sovereign territorial expansion. Since the 15th century, the city was progressively rebuilt and acquired its current characteristics.

Our first stop, due to both the proximity and the rain, was the cathedral, now Bern Minster, a Swiss reformed cathedral. It was founded originally in 1421 as the Cathedral of St. Vincent. A Romanesque church had been on this site since the 12th century, but was destroyed in the 1356 Basel earthquake. It converted from Catholicism during the 15th century reformation.

We walked around a bit familiarizing ourselves with the locale. Bern is built on what looks like a peninsula in a bend of the Aare River. The Old City, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, lies all within this peninsula. The central street is aptly called Market Street (Marktgasse) and continues on to Kramgasse. Both are home to many 15th and 16th century buildings, now containing shops of all kinds. The is no traffic other than the trams and a few taxis. In the center are numerous fountains; more on them later.

Before heading back, we stopped at the local grocery store to pick up a few items. We were amused to see that the Swiss sell hard boiled eggs and distinguish them from raw by color.

We had a most delicious dinner at Falken Restaurant only steps from our place.

In the morning we embarked on a walking tour of the Old City. We started at the Federal Palace: Bundeshaus, which serves as the seat of the Swiss Government and Parliament. The Federal Palace is situated on a square of land originally settled in the 12th century. The square today is a meeting point.

The views of the newer portions of the city from the back of the building are stunning.

Walking through the square our next stop was the Käfigturm (Prison Tower). The original tower was built as a gate house during the second expansion of Bern in 1256. It has served the city as a guard tower, prison, clock tower, and the centre of urban life and a civic memorial.

The bell dates to 1643 and still functions today. Originally it was struck by hand until a mechanism was added in the 19th century.

Our next stop was the Kindlifresserbrunnen, Child Eater Fountain. It was built in the mid 16th century to replace a wooden one. The fountain sculpture depicts a seated ogre devouring a naked child. Placed at his side is a bag containing more children. Because the ogre is wearing a pointed hat resembling a Jewish one, it has been speculated about the possibility of the ogre being the depiction of a Jew as an expression of blood libel against Jews.

Another theory is that the statue is the likeness of Krampus, the beast-like creature from the folklore of Alpine countries thought to punish children during the Christmas season who had misbehaved. Another theory is the eight children depict the eight cantons of the Old Swiss Confederacy and the Ogre is an enemy trying to gobble the cantons up. This would match with the fountain’s base which shows a frieze of armed bears going to war, including a piper and a drummer.

We now strolled down Marktgasse (Market Street). Stretching from Käfigturm at one end and Zytglogge (Clock Tower) at the other, it has since 1286 been the vibrant center of the Old City.

Note the open doors coming out of the street on both sides of the shop above. At fist we thought it was like in NYC opening into cellar spaces of the shops above. It turns out these open to separate shops and even museums. There is a whole layer of shopping a level below.

During his years at the patent office in Bern, Einstein lived in an apartment on this street. We opted to skip this (opted for the Einstein Museum instead), but were amused by the souvenir shop outside his residence full of Einstein replicas.

Along Market Street are numerous fountains like this one: The Zähringerbrunnen, which was built in 1535 as a memorial to the founder of Bern. The statue is a bear in full armor, with another bear cub at his feet (also holding a rifle). The bear represents the bear that, according to legend, Zähringer shot on the Aare peninsula as he was searching for a site to build a city. The armored bear carries a shield and a banner, both emblazoned with the Zähringer lion.

The east end of Market Street is dominated by the Zytglogge (Clock Tower). Despite the many redecorations and renovations it has undergone in its 800 years of existence, the Zytglogge is one of Bern’s most recognizable symbols and the oldest monument of the city with its 15th-century astrologic clock (on the other side).

At the hour tourists gather to watch the mechanisms strike the bell.

Continuing east past Marktgasse we strolled down Kramgasse. Next stop was the 16th century Gerechtigkeitsbrunnen (Fountain of Justice). In a city of over 100 fountains this one stands out because it is the only one that has maintained all of the original design features. The iconic figure of Lady Justice was copied throughout Switzerland up until the middle of the 17th century. She is portrayed standing in gracious counterpoise holding her traditional attributes: a sword of justice in her right hand, a balance in her left hand and a blindfold over her eyes. Her costume is fashioned in an antique manner, with sandaled feet, one knee bared, wearing a decorative golden suit of armor.

This is the first time in history that she is portrayed blindfolded, which later became a symbol for the principle of equality before the law. The blindfold implies that justice ought to be done without respect to rank or standing; that a just verdict is arrived at through introspection rather than with a view to outward looks. At the feet of Justice, four smaller busts crowd the pedestal: a Pope, an Emperor, a Sultan and a Schultheiss. All figures have closed their eyes as in submission. They represent the Four Earthly Powers: the four forms of government according to Renaissance Humanism theocracy: (the Pope), monarchy (the Emperor), autocracy (the Sultan) and the republic (the Schultheiss).

As we continued on Kramgasse we saw such diverse shops as a custom mens’ shoes store and this handmade string instruments shop.

At the tip of the peninsula at the bend in the Aare River stands the Nydegg Church first built in 1341. Today it is part of the Reformed Churches of the Canton of Bern, and was one of the first in the European Union to perform same-sex marriages.

And finally, at the tip of the peninsula, connecting the Old City of Bern across the water, stands the Untertorbrucke (The Lower Gate Bridge). Originally constructed in 1256, it is the oldest of Bern’s bridges and for years was the only river crossing. It has undergone many modifications through the centuries, but today stands primarily as a vestige to its medieval core.

**Untertorbrucke (The Lower Gate Bridge)** with Nydegg Church

From here we could also see several typical Swiss homes.

Also here at the eastern end of the peninsula is the bear park

where for centuries the city of Bern has maintained a home for bears.

Due to rain, we took a break from exploring the city. But once the rain let up for a bit, we headed back out to see more fountains. Those who have read my Moroccan blogs may remember how door obsessed I became there. Well so far in Switzerland it has been the fountains that have been the source of my obsession.

Be it fountains or the Aare river, in Bern water is omnipresent. There are 217 public fountains in Bern’s Old City. Apart from their decorative character and interesting history, Bern’s fountains obviously also have a functional aspect. The cool water flowing from their spouts is drinkable and free for everyone. And the pragmatic locals have combined the useful with the beautiful, placing some of the fountains on busy streets and therefore making them the world’s most charming traffic blocks.

The history of Bern’s public water supply dates all the way back to the Middle Ages: in the 13th century, there were already several standpipes in the city of the Zähringen people. The water came from the city’s underground stream, wells and probably cisterns. The main supply was the city’s creek. It was used as sewage, transported water to fight fires and connected – and still connects – Bern’s fountains. Around 1550, the city replaced the then wooden fountains with elaborate stone ones.

Steps from our apartment, in the plaza in front of the cathedral, stands Moses first constructed in 1544 and rebuilt after storm damage in 1790. The statue represents Moses bringing the Ten Commandments to the Tribes of Israel. Moses is portrayed with two rays of light projecting from his head, which represent Exodus 34:29-35 which tells that after meeting with God the skin of Moses’ face became radiant.

Another Old Testament figure is that of Samson also built in 1544. Biblical hero Samson is seen here killing the lion, a feat he is able to perform due to the great strength gifted to him by God on the condition that he abstain from alcohol and not cut his hair. A noteworthy detail on the statue is the butcher’s tools on Samson’s belt, hinting that the fountain’s likely patronage was the Butchers’ Guild.

Today the fountain stands in front of the Music Conservatory.

We detoured from Kramgasse and headed over to Town Hall, built in 1406.

In front of which stands Vennerbrunnen (the Banner Carrier Fountain), built in 1542. The Venner was a military-political title in medieval Switzerland. He was responsible for peace and protection in a section of a city and then to lead troops from that section in battle.

Next to Town Hall is the Church of St. Peter and St. Paul. During the Protestant Reformation in the early 16th century, the city of Bern adopted the new Protestant faith and the city’s churches converted, leaving the remaining Catholics in Bern without a church. Over the following centuries, they remained without a church in the city. The Church of St. Peter and Paul was begun in 1858 as the first Catholic church built in Bern since the Reformation.

Church of St. Peter and Paul
Kirche St. Peter und Paul

The church was renovated in the mid-twentieth century.

We headed back to Marktgasse and the Schützenbrunnen (Marksman Fountain) dating to 1543. The statue depicts an armed rifleman, a standard bearer for the Society of Musketry, with a banner in his right hand and a sword in his left. Notably, a bear cub, symbolically positioned between the rifleman’s legs, aims a rifle, adding a playful yet significant element to the composition.

Further west on Marktgasse is one of our favorite fountains thematically. The Anna-Seiler-Brunnen (Anna Seiler Fountain) commemorates Anna Seiler, the founder of Bern’s first hospital. Constructed in 1545, the fountain features a statue of Anna Seiler dressed in a blue gown, pouring water into a small dish, symbolizing her nurturing spirit and commitment to healthcare. Anna Seiler bequeathed her house to the city in her will on November 29, 1354, specifying that it be transformed into a hospital with 13 beds and two attendants. Known initially as the Seilerin Spital, it later moved to the Dominican Order’s Saint Michael’s Island monastery in 1531 and was renamed the Inselspital. The modern Inselspital remains a thriving healthcare institution with about 6,000 employees, treating approximately 220,000 patients annually. Anna Seiler Fountain serves as a testament to Seiler’s legacy and her lasting impact on healthcare in Bern.

Our final fountain of the day was Pfeiferbrunnen (Bagpiper Fountain). This 16th century fountain, characterized by its colorful figures, depicts a cheerful scene where a bagpiper, accompanied by a golden goose and a small monkey playing the flageolet, jovially performs. This assembly is symbolic, celebrating themes of cheerfulness, life, music, dance, and culinary delights. Such themes were typical of the era and resonated with the social activities around fountains, which were vital communal spots in medieval Bern.

We could not resist one more pic of a fountain, though not such a historically significant one.

The next day brought lots more rain, so we headed across the Aare River toward the museum.

On the way we had an amazing view of the river.

Once on the other side we had a great view of the Bern Minster to the east

and the Parliament building to the west.

and the hotel Bellevue right nextdoor.

We approached the museum past the elaborate statue in front.

The Bern History Museum also houses the Einstein Museum

It not only has the requisite bear statues out front, seen above, but also has a bronze one of Einstein at the entrance.

We spent several hours in the museum learning about Einstein’s life, his contributions to science, and his politics. We also learned a lot about Switzerland in the 20th century and how their neutrality during the world wars negatively affected their economy. Exhibitions included everything from explanations of relativity to this display of a typical grocery store in Bern in the early 20th century

On the way back we passed the casino, which is really an events venue. We glimpsed a bride scurrying inside to get out of the rain.

This final picture in Bern requires no explanation.

The morning brought sunshine once again. We decided to take the railcar

down to the park and neighborhood below the Parliament Building before heading out of town.

Our next stop was Interlaken. Along the way we were treated to beautiful scenery including this sneak peak preview of Lake Thun.

Upon arrival in town, the first striking scene was the numerous paragliders overhead, hard to see in the following picture, but dozens of them floating down out of the sky.

We checked into our Hotel: Rössli, an adorable family run boutique hotel on the west side of town.

They pleasantly accommodated our early arrival. We settled into our new home and were struck by the amazing view from our balcony.

The little double peak is Jungfrau (young woman), which at 13,642 ft is the westernmost and highest point of a gigantic (6.2 mi) wall dominating the valleys of Lauterbrunnen and Grinwald. The wall is formed by the alignment of some of the biggest north faces in the Alps and looms over Interlaken.

We set out to explore the town, which is one of the most spectacular places in the world we have ever visited. It has all the beauty of the surrounding Alps, two gorgeous lakes on either side, and an old world charm to the hotels, shops, homes, and apartments.

We strolled along the main street toward Höhematte Park.

Here in this wide open space is where the paragliders come to land.

One can be seen coming in for a landing every minute.

The west side of the park is dominated by the majestic Victoria Hotel.

In front of which the paragliders can be seen packing their equipment for the next flight.

The park is boarded by flower boxes.

all still gorgeously full of color despite the late season.

At one point, as we started to walk away, there were so many gliders landing, it seemed overwhelming.

We wandered further west to the Hotel Interlaken.

in front of which is a Japanese Garden. Created in 1995, the Japanese Garden of Interlaken was a gift from Interlaken’s Japanese twin town of Ōtsu. With its pond and pavilion, the Japanese Garden of Interlaken reflects the landscape in which it stands. Located next to the Hotel Interlaken, the garden symbolizes the roaring waterfalls and deep ravines of the Bernese Oberland; the Shinji pond represents lakes Brienz and Thun.

And behind the garden stands the Schlosskirche (Castle Church). Schlosskirche, sometimes called “the reformed church,” is one of the oldest building in Interlaken. Originally an Augustinian monastery, the castle church was built in 1133. Today, Schlosskirche is used as a convent and is one of the city’s most visited places. The church was used as a monastery for many years but it wasn’t always as revered as it is now. During the 16th century, the church was used as a storage for carriages, barrels and wine. The nave was even used as a granary. It wasn’t until the 19th century that Schlosskirke was used as a church again. The church was re-dedicated in 1911.

The interior is modest.

Everything about this town is charming from the hotels

the cafes

the shops

even the casino

and apartment buildings

One thing we saw that I was not quick enough to catch on camera was a herd of cows being driven right up our street with their bells tinkling away. Another common sight in town are horse-drawn carriages for tourists.

The morning brought sunshine so we embarked on an adventure. We headed to the Harderbahn (train station).

As we approached we could see the funicular track seemingly vertically rising to the top.

There we caught the funicular to the top. The funicular takes 10 minutes from the base station at 1,804 feet above sea level to the Harder Kulm station 4,344 ft elevation, a gain of 2,477 feet.

The track incline is about 64 degrees!

From there we got our first views.

five-minute walk leads to the viewpoint. Along the way are several cute wood carvings, typically Swiss.

Looking down, one appreciates the two lakes between which the town nestles. The Thun to the west

and the Brienz to the east.

and the western half of the town with the channels connecting the two lakes

and the eastern side of town

To get to the viewing platform, one must pass through the pagpda like structure that houses the restaurant.

Once we reached the viewpoint platform, we were able to get a larger view

I was able to go out onto the platform by walking backwards with Eric holding my hand the hole time. (thinking of you, Carol) A kind couple took the picture for us.

I scooted off the platform immediately, but Eric managed to stay long enough for a panoramic shot.

The views from the other side of the restaurant are also beautiful.

Striking are the numerous houses dotting the mountainside.

and this happy fellow

We hiked a bit further up the mountain. Looking down on Harder Kulm, we noticed that solar panels were being installed on the roof.

We passed through a playground for children.

which had some more of these cuties carved right from the trees felled to create the playground..

We climbed higher still and took a hike into the surrounding forrest.

Coming back down out of the woods, we were again struck by the beauty of the view.

We were not quite ready to leave this glorious place yet, so we had lunch on the terrace.

We just could not get enough of these views!

Finally we rode the funicular back down the mountain.

through the tunnel

Once on the ground and looking back up, we were able to appreciate the platform from which we took our pictures. I was very happy to have not seen this prior to going onto it, which I had enough trouble doing anyway.

We headed back through town and crossed the River Aare in a different spot this time to see the covered bridges.

The main one has sluice gates to control the level of the lake. As early as 1433 the monastery built and controlled weirs here to optimize fishing. Later in 1854 sluice gates were installed to control water levels in Bern. Prior to their installation, salmon were able to make their way all the way to remote breeding grounds of eastern Bernese Oberland then the young fry would swim back via Lake Thun, much to the delight of the citizens of Bern. After the sluices were built, fish ladders had been installed to allow movement of fish between lakes Thun and Brienz. Unfortunately flooding in 2005 has damaged the ladders, but most of the species have figured out a way to negotiate the journey, but not yet the salmon.

We headed back through the now familiar neighborhood of Interlaken West.

The next day it rained all day. We got out a bit in the morning and souvenir shopped, but while it poured in the afternoon, we took the day off and watched a movie.

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