Refreshed in the morning, we said goodby to Seyðisfjörður and headed back up the mountain toward the ring road. We were struck with how many (a couple of dozen) waterfalls we had missed seeing on the way into town the previous evening due to directionality and tiredness. We stopped at this particular beauty for some pictures.

Also on the way back through Egilsstaðir we had to grab a snapshot of this. As we passed Egilsstaðir we had reached our most eastern portion of the ring road and were now headed north and west.

This northeastern area of Iceland was again mostly rocky and barren, not the lush beauty of the southwestern areas. But we did see endless fields of purple lupines. As we admired their beauty, we looked them up and found that they are actually an invasive species here in Iceland and causing significant problems for many farmers. Also, as thinly populated as the south was: one can drive for significant periods of time and see no dwellings, the north is even more sparsely populated. But no drive is far before there is another waterfall to capture.

We also stopped along the way at Hverir which is one of the most active geothermal areas in all of Iceland. This region stands out for its multicolored landscapes

and bubbling mud pools

and boiling pools of water

and the numerous fumaroles

speckled across its moon-like terrain.

Finally it was time for our first dip in a hot spring. We checked in at Jarðböðin Nature Baths in Mývatn.

After a nice long soak and a quick shower, we drove to and around Mývatn Lake. We enjoyed an early dinner at the Skútustaðir Farmers’ Guesthouse. Afterward we strolled around the southern end of the lake enjoying the views.

We found our AirBnb for the night in the middle of a farm 10-15 minutes from town in the middle of nowhere. We were in for the night, and it was peaceful.

Our next stop in the morning was in the town of Akureyri. Dubbed the “capital of the north,” Akureyri has always been an important fishing port town. The way it is nestled between the mountains, it has a relatively mild winter; the port never freezes.

We easily found the main street

and stopped for pastries at the french bakery.

It is an international city with, in addition to the French eatery, German, American, and even Middle-eastern.

According to Feeding Phil hot dogs are quite popular and delicious, and we had yet to try one. So it was time, and yes, very delicious, as hot dogs go.

Akureyri has its share of beauty including this mural

and these flowers

With the long daylight hours, the annuals are all huge. But what is most striking in Akureyri are the hearts: from the one in the main square above, to the streetlights

and even just random decorations in the trees.

After spending the morning in Akureyri it was time to travel on further north and west. Along the way, mostly on the southern ring road, we had been seeing buildings that appeared to be built right into and under the ground. Very curious, I had looked them up and found that they are called turf houses. Historically, Iceland has very scarce home building materials. The rock is mostly volcanic, which is not sturdy for large structures. There are few trees native to the island, mostly just Aspens and Birch, neither of which are home sturdy. Icelanders developed a technique of building homes from turf. Turf homes are not stable over long periods of time; they need to be mostly replaced every decade or so. This explains why despite being continuously inhabited since the 10th century, Iceland lacks the majestic old buildings of Europe. With newer building materials, and the ability to ship them in, turf homes have fallen out of vogue. The few that remain are used mostly for farm animals or storage of feed or equipment for farm use. But a few turf homes are now maintained as museums. I was itching to visit one, and we were about to make that happen.

Glaumbær House Museum is actually a total of 13 buildings all joined through passageways. The farm site dates back to the 10th century, but the buildings only to the mid-17th century. The newest addition was added in the mid-18th century, and it has been maintained as a museum since the mid-19th century.

The walls of a turf home are built up in layers, usually at angles for stability.

The side buildings of the complex include stables, storage, and a smithy’s workspace.

The central buildings include a kitchen

a couple of pantries,

and bedrooms,

It is interesting the amount of comforts these early Icelanders had including musical instruments.

and some fine porcelains

But at their core, they are a hardworking group of people from spinning wool

to farming. Despite their isolation, travel was sometimes necessary in the winter.

Even the horse’s shoes have spikes for winter work and travel.

Having exhausted our curiosity about the turf houses, it was time to move on. We were headed to Blönduós but decided to take the long way and stopped in the cute port town of Sauðárkrókur for some fish and chips. We stayed the night at the Blönduós Hotel, which was charming and had some gorgeous views.

It was situated right next to a photogenic church.

And we finally managed to stay up late enough for the beginnings of a sunset, which were now more than an hour earlier (about 11:30 pm) than they had been when we first arrived in Iceland over a week prior.

It was time to venture into the West Fjords, destination: Ísafjörður, a 5-6 hour drive. Today was to be all about the journey. After our wheel-gripping drive on 95 in the east, we asked route advice from the hotel receptionist. Google maps was taking us on route 60, which is the route we would need to take in a few days to head south. We wanted to consider route 61, which weaves in and out of the fjords, but were afraid of the risk. She kind of reassured us that although route 60 is the way most Icelanders would choose (more on this later), route 61 is indeed the much more scenic route, would avoid redundancy, and is perfectly safe with roads in decent shape. So off we went. Indeed the journey was spectacular.

It was a long beautiful day. In retrospect, we were very lucky to have sunshine for our drive through the fjords. We awoke, the next morning, in Ísafjörður to pouring rain. After a hearty breakfast at the Torg Hotel, we strolled around town. It is a popular tourist destination; there were 4 cruise ships docked for the day. Additionally, there are many sailboats in the harbor.

The town has the now familiar rainbow street with planted containers.

and this new-to-us variety of lily

As the rain worsened, we headed to the Arctic Fox Museum. There we learned that the arctic fox was the first land mammal to inhabit Iceland, arriving on ice floats about 1,000 years before the Vikings. In addition to exhibits about their history, adaptability, food, and habitat, there are some rescue foxes, so cute, in pens in the back.

The rain was even steadier and colder than ever, so we called the sightseeing quits for the day, went back to the hotel restaurant, ate, drank, and played cards the rest of the day.

The morning brought less rain but still heavy fog. Alas, we had a ferry to catch, so off we went. We left Ísafjörður on route 60 through the tunnel which is about 6 km long, carved out of the mountain, very dark, and for most of its length only one lane wide with pullovers to allow for oncoming cars. Talk about a white knuckle drive! We were all happy Eric was doing the driving. So glad at this point that our trip into town was via the fjords!

We had time before our ferry to stop at the Dynjandi bílastæði, a group of 6 successive waterfalls. As a group, they make up the largest waterfall in the West Fjords. Dynjandi means thunderous, which is evident from the second one is out of the car.

All 6 cannot be seen at once, so we hiked up along the falls for a better look.

to just below the top 2 falls.

But time would not allow us to go further.

So back into the car we clambered in the fog and made our way on route 60 up over a mostly single lane, still under construction, barely drivable road in the dense fog, hard to see the car in front of you! And this was the route most Icelanders would have chosen from Blönduós!? We were so glad we had chosen the sunny fjord-hugging scenic route 61. We made it to Breidafjörður Bay in time for the ferry, phew, and had a relaxing if foggy journey across to Stykkishólmur on the Snæfellsnes peninsula.

Our AirBnb host had warned us there would be no grocery store nearby, so we stopped in Breidafjörður for groceries. Throughout Iceland is a chain of supermarkets called Bonus.

Then, because one can never see too many waterfalls, we stopped for pictures at Kirkjufellsfoss.

Kirkjufellsfoss is one of the most photographed waterfalls in Iceland. The river Kirkjufellsá runs down from the volcano Helgrindur and has three waterfalls in it, all called Kirkjufellsfoss. Its name translates to “Church Mountain Falls,” and this small, enchanting waterfall is only 16 feet high. The waterfall’s beauty forms a stunning visual as it captures Mt. Kirkjufell from an angle that makes it seem triangular shaped. This is part of why it was used as “arrowhead mountain” in the television series Game of Thrones. We hiked to the bottom despite the pretty steady rain.

We found our AirBnb in Hellnar but quickly ventured out to the nearby Fosshotel for a warm and yummy dinner. Much later the rain and fog lifted enough for some pictures of the amazing views from our home.

In the morning we ventured out despite the heavy winds and steady rain. Our afternoon whale watching trip had been cancelled due to the storms, so we set out to explore the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

Our first stop was Laugarbrekka. Here, in her birthplace in 980, is a statue of Guðríður Þorbjarnardóttir, wife of Þorfinnur Karlsefni Þórdarson, who gave birth to a son in about 1004, during their stay in Vinland during one of Guðríður’s 8 voyages to North America! This son, Snorri Þorfinnsson was the first child of European descent to be born in North America. The statute shows Snorri is on Guðríður’s shoulders.

The following photo shows the actual small size of the statue, which can be seen in the background. But it also shows how we dressed from head to toe for the weather!

We traveled along the south of the Snæfellsnes peninsula until we reached the Þúfubjarg cliffs with their view of Lóndrangar: 2 volcanic plugs.

The Þúfubjarg cliffs are themselves beautiful and full of nesting birds.

We drove around to and hiked up to the Saxhóll Crater. Compared to the Kerið Crater we had seen in the Golden Circle, the many steps in the heavy wind made this one not worth the effort.

We drove around the peninsula a bit more, but ultimately decided to give up on the day. In the evening we ventured out to Arnarstapi to a cute place for dinner of fish and chips and beer.

In the morning, the sun was trying to peak through the fog. We headed back to Arnarstapi to take pictures of the big stone structure of Bárður Snæfellsás. It was made by the Icelandic sculptor, Ragnar Kjartansson and was unveiled in 1985.

Bárður Snæfellsás was the settler of this area, half a troll, and half a man, but his mother was human. He came to Iceland in the 9th century and gave the peninsula its name, Snjófellsnes peninsula, but both words “snær” and “snjór” mean snow in Icelandic.

Beyond the statue are gorgeous cliffs filled with birds. This pathway connects the two tiny towns of Arnarstapi and Hellnar, and in good weather is probably a beautiful hike.

We ventured down to the beautiful natural harbor of Arnarstapi with its extraordinary columnar basalt and cliff formations.

The grounds are covered with cranebills

and succulents

As we left the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, the sun finally made a showing. So we decided to stop, where else, but at some more falls. First stop: Glannifoss. Glanni is a stunning waterfall in Nordura river. The locals believe it to be the dwelling place for elves and trolls. It was a short hike in from the parking lot, which is shared with the local golf course.

Next stop: Hraunfossar and Barnafoss. Just when we thought we had seen enough waterfalls, we found these to be so very unique, it was more than worth the stop. Hraunfossar means Lava Falls. Water seems to magically appear from the lava.

However, it is actually a clear spring surging through lava. The lava field that Hraunfossar trickles through flowed from an eruption of one of the volcanoes lying under the nearby glacier of Langjökull, the second largest ice-cap in Iceland. The waterfalls pour into the Hvítá river from ledges of less porous rock in the lava.

Looking back at it from upstream, the water seems to appear from the middle of the lava with no river above.

Upstream on the river is Barnafoss, “Child Falls,” and legend has it that one day two boys were left home while their parents went to church, but they got bored and decide to follow. When taking a shortcut, the two boys tried crossing the falls over a natural stone bridge but fell in and drowned. The mother of the boys cursed the bridge and shortly after it was destroyed by an earthquake.

As we headed back to the parking lot, we could not resist a last group selfie.

It was time to check into our last AirBnb (and accommodation) of the trip. To our delight we were booked on a horse farm with its own natural hot springs!

A hot spring can be seen in the distant bend in the river.

The host happened to be there and explained she runs the farm, and she breeds and trains her horses for show. In addition to our home, she has turned the old silo into a unique 1 BR AirBnb.

But the most fun part: she took us into the paddock and introduced us to a 2 day-old foal!

I could barely drag Carol from the horses.

The final morning we headed out early. We had booked a final hot springs stop on the way to the airport.

The eight geothermal pools are surrounded by rocks and nestled in the hills over 1200 acres of beautiful nature (but picture taking is discouraged).

This pool is right on the ocean’s edge.

After a luxurious soak and a hot shower, we were off to the airport for the journey home.

We flew to Reykjavik with friends Jeff and Carol and reached our AirBnb around midnight. Our host graciously met us at that late hour and aided us in finding our parking garage. We woke up surprisingly early considering the jetlag, and headed to the BRAUÐ & CO. BAKERY, featured on Feeding Phil. As he suggested, we bought cinnamon buns and happy marriage cake, and we were not disappointed.

Despite the rain, we headed out to the Blue Lagoon. Due to the cost and crowds, we had decided not to book a reservation for the hot springs, but wanted to see the site. The recent volcanic activity in the area caused some road closures and detours, but we arrived nonetheless.

Of note, we took a group selfie at every site for the 2 weeks we were together. I will include only a few here.

After walking around outside, we peeked in.

We then drove back into Reykjavik, had our first expensive lunch of Icelandic street food: fish & chips, fish stew with rye bread, and bisque, totaling for the 4 of us over $100, wow for street food. We then strolled up the Rainbow Street toward the church.

The statue in front is of Leif Ericson (ca. 970 – ca. 1020) who is regarded as the first European to land in North America nearly 500 years before Christopher Columbus. According to the Sagas of Icelanders, he established a Norse settlement at Vinland, tentatively identified with the Norse L’Anse aux Meadows on the northern tip of Newfoundland in modern-day Canada.

Inside the church we found austere surroundings with a huge organ.

We then rode the elevator to the top of the bell tower to take in the views of Reykjavik, which were striking despite the rain and fog.

After leaving the church, we strolled around in the drizzle and enjoyed the colorful homes and businesses that enhance the city’s decor.

We continued down to the waterfront and visited the arts center: Harpa, which opened in 2011.  The building features a distinctive colored glass facade inspired by the basalt landscape of Iceland.

Before heading back to our AirBnb, we could not resist stopping by the Phallological Museum.

We did not go inside, however, deciding that all we needed to see was at the entrance.

The next morning we set out to tour the Golden Circle. First stop was Þingvellir National Park (pronounced Thingviller). Þingvellir National Park is a unique site in Iceland as it’s both historically significant as well as being a geological wonder. It has the honor of being the first established national park in Iceland and the only one receiving UNESCO status. It is a place where dramatic geology meets a millennium of fascinating history. Here, visitors to Þingvellir can discover the roots of this island’s formation and how the Icelandic settlers formed their leaderless society. The park’s unique geology comes from its location between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, which create the rift valley that runs through Iceland. Iceland is the only country where this valley, the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, can be seen above sea level. Nowhere is it more visible than in the park’s unique geology, which comes from its location between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, which create the rift valley that runs through Iceland. Iceland is the only country where this valley, the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, can be seen above sea level. Nowhere is it more visible than in Þingvellir National Park.

No single place epitomizes the history of Iceland and the Icelandic nation better than Þingvellir by the river Öxará. At Þingvellir – literally “Assembly Plains” – the Alþing general assembly was established around 930 and continued to convene there until 1798. Major events in the history of Iceland have taken place at Þingvellir and therefore the place is held in high esteem by all Icelanders. Today Þingvellir is a protected national shrine. According to the law, passed in 1928, the protected area shall always be the property of the Icelandic nation, under the preservation of the Alþing.

On our way to the next site, we stopped at a working farm for lunch and had, of course, burgers.

Then we were off to our first geysers of the trip. They are to be found in the town of Geysir, for which they were named, derived from the Icelandic word geysa, which means “to go quickly forward.” The most famous there is the Strokkur Geyser, which spurts steam about 50-60 feet into the air about every 10 minutes but lasts only a few seconds, requiring one to be fast with the camera click.

In this geothermal area, there are several hot pools and smaller geysers too.

Our Golden Circle tour continued onward to the Gullfoss (foss is Icelandic for waterfalls).

On average 100,000 liters of glacial water from the river Hvítá plunge 31 meters into the Gullfossgljúfur canyon every second.

We walked all around this magnificent waterfall, taking it in from every angle.

Next we headed to our accommodations for the night: the Varmi Guest House, where our host was most amiable and upgraded Jeff and Carol’s rooms for the night. We were quite comfortable after our exhausting day.

In the morning, we headed slightly back to see the Kerið Crater, which we had passed the prior evening, but were too tired to climb. We were so happy we made the trip back; the crater was truly spectacular to see.

Kerið is approximately three thousand years old, making it roughly half the age of most volcanic calderas found in Iceland. This is the major reason as to why Kerið’s slopes are red in colour, rather than a volcanic black; the iron deposits are, geologically speaking, fresh. Kerið is approximately 55 metres (180 feet) deep, 170 metres (558 feet) wide and 270 meters (886 feet) in circumference. It is possible to take a path right to the crater’s edge, to fully encircle it, and to descend down to the pristine waters of the crater lake. We walked all the way around.

Then it was back into the car, grateful for our fist day of mostly sunshine, and drove along the southern portion of the ring road. We spotted some spectacular falls off to the left, and decided to make a stop.

Seljalandsfoss originates at the Eyjafjallajökull (jökull is Icelandic for glacier), which is relatively small glacier as they go in Iceland.

Eyjafjallajökull is currently famous for being the volcano which erupted in 2010 spewing huge amounts of ash into the air and disrupting air traffic

There we also noticed for the first time the flies swarming an Angelica plant, which is both a pollinator in Iceland and also historically used by Icelanders for medicinal purposes.

After hiking around the falls for a bit, we hopped back into the car and continued easterly along the southern ring road. We headed for Skógafoss. The drive was spectacular, and the fields are so lush and green we could not stop admiring all the breathtaking views out the car windows. We fist stopped for lunch at the hotel of the same name right by the falls. After lunch we hiked down to the falls for a look.

The Skógafoss is one of the biggest waterfalls in the country, with a width of 82 feet and a drop of 200 ft.

Next stop along our southern route was Sólheimajökull, no thanks to Google maps, which tried to lead us astray. Luckily with our better instincts (that road looked too rough for our rental car) and with the help of Rick Steves’ downloaded Iceland Guide, we found the parking lot. Sólheimajökull is popular with tourists due to it’s relative proximity to the road and thereby ease of access. It was to be our first somewhat upclose glacier.

Sólheimajökull is an outlier glacier of the larger Mýrdalsjökull which lies atop the Katla caldera.

The “dirty” appearance is from decades of movement down along the volcanic mountains while picking up rocks and debris.

Then we went on to our final site of the day: Dyrhólaey Lighthouse, which was built in 1910.

From the peninsula atop which sits the lighthouse, we were able to look down onto the black sand beach.

Dyrhólaey literally means “the hill island with the door hole.” Looking out, we could appreciate its name.

We saw our first puffin.

And finally we headed into Vik for the night. There we checked into the Vik Apartments and had a delicious dinner at Suður near the church on the hill.

The next morning we set out super early on our sunniest and warmest day so far, which was fortunate because we were scheduled for a ferry ride. to the home of one of the largest puffin colonies in the world. We left the car behind in Landeyjahöfn and boarded Herjólfur (The Ferry) to Heimaey, the only inhabited island in the cluster of otherwise uninhabited Westman Islands (Vestmannaeyjar in Icelandic), which takes around 35-40 minutes one way. As we journeyed across, we were treated to views of Eyjafjallajökull (the ice capped volcano).

As we entered the Heimaey Harbor, we noted that even the ferries here in Iceland are electric. An aside note: 85% of energy consumed in Iceland is renewable (100% of electricity, the remaining to run the non electric vehicles), a remarkable and laudable number. Over 70% of the renewable energy comes from hydropower, most of the remaining from geothermal.

We strolled into town for a self guided walking tour. We were treated to several murals,

and some cute fun street art.

and, of course, a puffin bar.

We learned that there was a huge volcanic eruption in 1973 that started on January 23rd and lasted until July 3rd. Most of the residents evacuated to the mainland. The lava nearly buried the town. There was only one death reported, but several homes were lost. The pole below marks the height of the ash when Heimaey Island was deemed safe enough for the residents to return.

The advancing lava had consumed many homes. Blátindur, shown below, was a home originally built around 1910 and was destroyed except for the one wall, which could be seen sticking out of the mass of lava and rock. The locals have preserved it a a remembrance of how scary was that cold night in January.

We climbed up the mountain behind Blátindur to see the memorials to the homes consumed during the eruption, many of them 40-50 feet below.

From the top of the ’73 lava mountain we had a beautiful view of the harbor.

We visited the local historical museum and learned more about the ’73 eruption and also about the pirate raid of Heimaey in 1627. We also learned a lot about the local history and culture of fishing, preserving, and marketing the catch. The fishing industry, very hard work, was an entire family affair including women and small children. We also learned about the music, art and culture of Heimaey. Then it was time for lunch and our afternoon boat tour.

Again, we were so happy for the warm, sunny day we had for this excursion. Our guide on the boat told us lots of local stories including ones of the ’73 volcanic eruption and also expanded on stories we had learned about the 1627 pirate raid. She also told us about puffin rescue. Apparently puffins mate for life. After nesting during the summer months, burrowing into the grounds around the cliffs and laying a single egg, the adults migrate to a warmer climate for the winter and leave the pufflings (baby puffins) to fend for themselves. When they emerge from their burrows in the autumn months, the pufflings are confused by the lights in Vestmannaeyjar and wander into town. Their dense bones, which make for good diving, are too heavy for their tiny wings, making flight at this young age impossible. Normally they would leap off cliffs into the water below. They would die of starvation if left on their own. The locals collect the puffins, nurse and feed them until they are deemed by a local vet to be able to survive on their own. The pufflings are then tossed off cliffs to sail to the waters below. As we toured around on the boat hundreds of puffins were swarming the skies above and around us. Unfortunately, they are so tiny, they are tough to catch in a picture. In the picture below, all the little white dots and most in the air are puffins.

Other birds in the area include razorbills, common murres, petrels, and fulmars. The pictures do not even come close to capturing the magnificence of these bird colonies.

Sheep also dot the top of the islands. They are hauled up there by cranes on boats inside of a body wrap. Their purpose is to keep the grass short enough for the pufflings to be able to emerge from their burrows in the fall. A few houses can be seen dotting the islands. Historically they were hunting cabins (bird hunting is now no longer legal). They are now used as “man caves.” The one below (on the left) is called “the loneliest house in the world.”

Our boat entered a little cave, which was beautiful and had amazing acoustics.

Once back in the harbor, it was time to jump back onto our ferry and head back to the mainland.

On the way we were treated to a rainbow over Eyjafjallajökull.

In the morning we headed toward Skaftafell National Park, which since 2008 has been part of Vatnajökull National Park. We were still on the southern part of the ring road, but the landscapes changed significantly from the lush greens we had been seeing to the browns of rocks.

Along the way we stopped to take photos of more glaciers. Hvannadalshnjúkur is a peak on the northwestern rim of the summit crater of the Öræfajökull (glacier covered volcano) in Vatnajökull National Park. Its summit is the highest point in the country. Unfortunately, due to the fog, we could not see the peak, but we did see the edges of the glacier.

We entered Skaftafell and parked just as the rain was stopping. We hiked up to Svartifoss, making photo stops along the way.

And viewing the smaller falls on the trail. Time to comment: there are approximately 10,000 waterfalls in Iceland!

After about an hour’s hike, we made it to Svartifoss.

Ice-cold meltwater from Svínafellsjökull feeds the famous Svartifoss. The waterfall tumbles down 80 ft over a cliff, which is bordered on both sides by tall black basalt columns, (which refers back to the image of Harpa in Reykjavik). It resembles pipes of a giant organ, which is where the waterfall gets its name.

Basalt is a volcanic rock formed from the superheated magma that emerges as lava during an eruption. Hexagonal basalt rocks form as lava cools and contracts, creating shapes that minimize stress and surface area, with hexagons being the most efficient pattern. Basalt volcanic rock has a special geometrical shape due to this change in composition. In volcanic rocks, straight and regular columnar fractures are known as a colonnade.

These basalt pillars and hexagonal rock formations you see have a special feature called columnar jointing. This is what gives each basalt column their unmistakable hexagonal shape and makes them so neat to look at. Columnar jointing has also been found in planets like Mars. With time and the elements, the columns crack and fall.

As we climbed back into the car, the rain started back up. We were so lucky to have had the reprieve during our hike! We drove to the nearby Fosshotel, our most luxurious digs of the trip. There we relaxed in the outdoor hot tub with glacier views before enjoying a gourmet meal.

Vatnajökull (2110 m) is the largest glacier in Iceland and it’s also the largest glacier mass in Europe. It covers an area of roughly between 8100 sq. km and 8300 sq. km, and it’s about 1000 m thick at its thickest point. Its average thickness is 400 – 500 m, and the total ice volume of Vatnajokull is probably in the vicinity of 3300 cubic km.

The next morning the weather had again turned cloudy and windy!! It was to be our longest day of driving thus far. Our first stop, still along the southern ring road, was Jökulsárlón, a large glacial lake in southern part of Vatnajökull National Park. Situated at the head of the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier, it developed into a lake after the glacier started receding from the edge of the Atlantic ocean. The lake has grown since then at varying rates because of melting of the glaciers. The glacial front is now about 5.0 mi away from the ocean’s edge and the lake covers an area of about 6.9 sq mi. In 2009 it was reported to be the deepest lake in Iceland, at over 932 ft. The size of the lake has increased fourfold since the 1970s.

As the glacier breaks into the lake, icebergs are formed, flow, and break apart. Wish I could upload the videos.

Words cannot describe, nor pictures capture, neither the intensity and variety of blues…

…nor nature’s sculpted beauty.

Did I mention the wind? In the picture below, Carol and I are laughing hysterically as we try to hold each other from blowing off the overlook.

We did not need to be told the safety warnings below.

Ultimately the icebergs float under the bridge and out into the open ocean.

All that excitement, and we were less than a half hour into our 4-5 hour drive! Once again Google maps led us in a direction I would avoid if doing this trip again. We were headed for Seyðisfjörður, and were routed via route 95, which appeared to be a shortcut from the ring road. But alas, it was a dirt road over some desolate driving terrain, and we ultimately intersected back to the ring road anyway, not worth the 20-30 minutes saved. We crossed the ring road in Egilsstaðir, drove up over a mountain, and arrived in Seyðisfjörður in the late afternoon hungry and tired. We were treated to a cute little town nestled at the mouth of the Fjarðará River and at the innermost point of the fjord of the same name as the town.

Originally a fishing village, it is known for its cute historic buildings.

Seyðisfjörður was the recipient of the first telegraph cable in 1906, was the site of the country’s first hydroelectric plant built via a dam in 1913, and was a base for British and American soldiers in WWII. Today the town’s major economy is tourism.

We strolled around the local shops.

Then we headed into the local bar for an early dinner.

Then we headed to our AirBnb, which was just outside of town in the most beautiful setting.

With a gorgeous view of the fjord.

And another view of the harbor. We awoke in the morning to a cruise ship at dock.

We left Essaouira on a warm day. We passed argan trees and headed to wine country. We stopped at Domaine du Val d’Argan for a tasting. First we were introduced to their entire line of wines. It is today the only vineyard in Morocco to have obtained certification of conformity to European regulation CE 834/2007 which governs organic farming in Europe.

Then we were taken on a tour of the facility, which was like none that we had ever seen. The fermentation takes place in cement vats.

The aging then takes place in metal barrels.

They bottle and sell about 300,000 bottles a year, 90% within Morocco.

The owner of the place Charles Melia bought the original 12 acres in 1994 but now owns 129.

We passed the scraggly looking vineyards.

In addition to a tasting room and restaurant, they have accommodations of 5 overnight guest rooms.

We tasted 2 whites and 2 reds, which were not bad.

After the tasting we got back in the car for our long drive to the Ourika Valley. The final drive up to the hotel was on a narrow dirt road that winds up out of the valley into the High Atlas Mountains. We arrived in the late afternoon to Kasbah Bab Ourika.

As usual, the courtyard is lovely.

After a welcome drink we were shown to our room.

And once again, the bathroom is the best part.

As is the roomy private terrace with a view of the High Atlas Mountains.

We watched the sun set over the mountains then enjoyed dinner in the restaurant.

In the morning we were again struck with the beauty of the view from our terrace with the morning light on the mountains.

On our way to breakfast we noted how much later the olives ripen in the mountains than in the southern valleys. In Skoura they were already harvesting black olives. Here they are still not even yet ripe green ones.

After breakfast we met with our mountain guide Hassan. The dog from our hotel decided to join us on the hike.

Behind Eric and Hassan can be seen Jebel Toubkal  Mountain. At 4,167 m (13,671 ft), it is the highest peak in Morocco, the Atlas Mountains, in fact in the Arab world. It is usually great for skiing, although no snow yet this year, which we are told is unusual..

After leaving the hotel property, we hiked around and almost immediately entered the Toubkal National Park. Hassan pointed out all the interesting flora along the way and explained each ones usefulness to the locals. Agave not only makes tequila, but the fibers are silk-like and are woven into fine cloths.

Juniper leaves are dried and smoked to help one stop smoking cigarettes. The wood from the juniper bush is burned and the ashes are dissolved into water and the dark liquid spread around the rims of food and beverage bowls to repel insects. The ashes can also be used in hair dyes.

The juniper berries make gin.

We passed honey bee hives.

At this point in the park we were able to look back and see or hotel in the distance.

We also passed a football (soccer) field built by the government for the children. It is here in the park due to the lack of ground in the villages, where all available space is used for homes or gardens..

We took a minute to stop and enjoy the beauty of our surroundings.

Hassan explained the danger of erosion of the hills due to storms. The government has been planting pine trees along the rims to help bind the ground.

We passed a wild oleander and Hassan reiterated its poisonous properties, especially if boiled.

Wild mint grows along the irrigation channels.

We hiked out of the park and passed along the top of a family farm on the border. The vegetables are sold at the Monday market.

As we came around to the front of the farm,

we saw a prickly pear cactus, a rarity here because they are all dying of a fungal infection. Hassan explained that the family can keep this single one alive by regularly cleaning it and covering it with the black soap we have seen in all the souks, which will prevent the fungus from sticking. The cactus berry is not only a delicious fruit, but the oil from its seed is used in anti wrinkle facial products.

On the edge of the farm was a carob tree. There was a time when the carob seeds were used to weigh the carats of gold, carat from the arabic word qurat which means unit of weight with reference to the elongated seed bod of the carob, hence the nomenclature.

This tree is just starting to bud.

Along the border of the farm are a line of agave plants. They are often used as natural fences to keep sheep and goats from wandering onto the fields.

He also pointed out that the agave will shoot up a flower after about 10 years or so, but then the plant dies.

There are chickens roaming near most homes. This one was just strutting, begging for her picture to be taken.

Hassan explained all the new construction seen everywhere. Most families all live together. As the sons grow and marry, they just add new homes onto the existing ones.

Some of the new homes use the old method of dirt, straw, etc. But most now use concrete bricks for immediacy.

Unlike in the city, which has community hammams, here almost every home has its own hammam often with an external access for the firewood.

The hammams account for the smoke we see from our terrace rising to the sky from many areas.

We passed the school with the children outside playing. They are off this week. About every 6 weeks they get a 1 week break.

At this point Hassan, a previous science teacher, took a moment to lament the lack of funding for education and healthcare in the country. Since the 60s the population in Morocco has grown from 8 million to over 40 million. In that time, very few new schools have been built, yet many new soccer fields have been built. The students in the villages go to school in shifts, each child for only 3 hours a day. There can be as many as 50 students to a classroom. Where the teachers used to get a 2 hour lunch break, now they have a quick lunch break and work all day for no increase in pay. There is currently a teachers’ strike in Morocco. Across from the school is the kresh: preschool.

We asked about birthing babies. Most women have their first in a hospital because of the risk. But if no problems with the first, subsequent babies are born at home assisted by the village midwife.

Beside the school is the mosque.

As the government has brought running water to the homes, each home is charged for the use. In order to charge, the homes are numbered.

Before there were elected officials in each village, the villages were run by the wealthy chiefs who lived in kasbahs. This town’s abandoned kasbah was severely damaged by the Sept. 8 earthquake.

Walking through the village, we passed the local store.

This village also has an irrigation system, more sophisticated than the one we saw in the Skoura Valley.

There is a lever for changing the water’s direction, not stones and mud.

Hassan pointed out that the more luxurious looking homes we passed are all vacation homes for the more wealthy city dwellers from Marrakech.

One such fine home we passed was that of the owner of our hotel.

Very much like in the Skoura Valley, each family here has its own plots for farming. And similar to there, the plots are getting smaller with each new generation.

Hassan pointed out the many squash and pumpkin vines growing all around us. The large elongated squash, after taking out the marrow, used to be used as gourds for drinking and storing, but no more. Now it is simply cooked with Friday couscous.

The pumpkin vine is growing on the tree for support. The pumpkin is wrapped to prevent birds from poking holes into it.

Bitter oranges are grown for marmalade. Their skins can be used for orange dye. The blossoms are used for essences, scented products.

Sweet lemons are for juice but the bitter lemons are preserved for cooking in the tagines with olives.

He pointed out a quince tree.

A plum orchard

And an avocado tree.

The majority of the electricity is from solar panels.

We passed an abandoned wheat mill where the running water from the irrigation stream powered the wheel.

Alfalfa, feed for the animals, is grown in large fields.

There is a dog tied in the middle of the alfalfa field because his barking will scare away any wild boars that wander in from the park.

Sheep and a donkey graze nearby.

A Washington Palm is just for beauty; it bears no fruit. Have to wonder as to the significance in the naming of it…

Again, the irigation system is vast and impressive.

We passed fields of potatoes

and onions

The tomatoes are just about done for the season as the weather cools.

Finally we have arrived in the Amazigh family home. Amazigh is another name for Berber, which is what the tribes prefer. Berber was the name given to them by the Romans for “those who do not speak Latin.” Amazigh is the original for themselves in their native Berber language.

Stepping over the threshold, we are in the foyer of the home which contains the oven for baking the bread for guests.

There is a stable for the animals, which were out grazing during the day.

And a pen for the donkey, taking a mid day break.

This home, like most others in the village, has it’s own hammam, which I have come to understand is very much like a sauna.

The water is boiled over the fire, which is lit from the outside wall, then a little water is placed on the inside floor for steam. Inside the hammam one sits, relaxes, and scrubs oneself with the black soap.

Also in this foyer to the home is a room for the storage of food for the animals, mostly alflalfa both fresh and dried.

We then stepped through the door, past the bathroom facilities (all the homes in the village have running water and sewage lines), and into the inner courtyard.

Our lunch was cooking in the tagine atop the majamar.

Hassan showed us the kitchen with the everyday bread ovens that can also double to cook the large family Friday couscous.

He showed us the vessel into which they pour the milk, then swing it for about 30 minutes to separate the butter from the milk.

It is then simply hung on a peg for storage.

In addition to wood, butane is used for cooking. It is more expensive but more expedient to use.

The next room has the kitchen wares. We commented on the number of teapots!

And more cookware.

The rest of the rooms around the courtyard are for sleeping. We went up the steps to the level above. In the valley homes like this one have an open courtyard in the center. Hassan explained that up in the mountains, the courtyard would be closed and would be the stable for the animals, thus keeping the house warmer for the upstairs occupants.

And were invited into the guest room. Hassan explained that most Amazigh homes have a room used exclusively for entertaining guests.  Here the extended family gathers to celebrate the end of Ramadan.

Hassan the proceeded to explain the ritual of making and serving tea. We realized that despite having been in the country for over a month, and having been served tea countless times, no-one had yet explained all the steps involved in the process.

He showed us the ingredients: loose green tea from China, lumps of sugar, and herbs, whatever you like, most often mint in Morocco.

First one must wash hands before the ingredients are handled, as well as before eating meals.

Then a handful of tea is poured into the teapot which is next filled with about a cup of boiling water. The water is swished to open the tea leaves, then poured out and saved. Meanwhile, choose what herbs, today he chose lemon verbena, sage, and absinthe, place them in a glass, and pour hot water over to cleanse; let sit a few minutes. A second cup of water is poured into the teapot and swirled vigorously to clean the now opened tea leaves. This dirty water is poured out and thrown away. Now the teapot is filled with water, the first rinse put back in the pot, and the rinsed herbs, their rinse water having been thrown away, are all added back to the pot, which is placed on charcoals and boiled a few minutes. If sugar is to be added, which it always is for Moroccans; (they physically work hard and burn the calories), the sugar is placed in a glass and the boiling water added to it to dissolve the sugar in the glass. The dissolved sugar is then added to the pot. A glass is poured out, then replaced into the pot a few times to ensure that the ingredients in the pot are all mixed well. Finally, a small amount is poured into a glass and tasted. If deemed ready, a half glass is poured for each guest. The first round is always a half glass for 2 reasons: if the guest does not like the herbs used, only a half glass is wasted and, the first round of tea is too hot to hold the glass. The half glass allows for room in the upper half of the glass for fingers to pick up the glass.

After tea, lunch was served. This is another Moroccan custom we have noted: tea is served first with nuts and cookies then lunch is served followed by fruits. The dessert seems to come before the meal.

After lunch we headed to the upper terrace for the views. In the distance another village can be seen on the hill. There are 49 villages in the Ourika Valley.

Also from above we can see the building going on next door. The family is adding a home for the eldest married brother.

There are more homes being built in the village also.

Also from up high we can see a row of poplar trees. Poplar trees are used for making furniture because of their flexibility. Their foliage is beautiful this time of year.

Down in the village we passed a home with a couple of large tents set up adjacent to the home. Hassan explained that means they are about to have a celebration. All celebrations are community wide events. Celebrations include weddings and circumcisions, the latter taking place after the baby is 40 days old but generally before 90.

As we left the village we passed several nurseries. One was for more poplars, another for cedar trees, also used for furniture and cabinetry. The trees will be transplanted around the area.

We then made the long hike up the hill back to our hotel. We had not noted prior but realized now, here also pines have been planted to stabilize the road from erosion.

We watched another sun set over the mountains, then another delicious dinner in the restaurant. The next day was one for more R&R. We took some time to enjoy the beautiful resort. While I shot photos on the ground including the lunch terrace

the pool

And the lending library/reading room

And the extensive gardens. They use rosemary as a border.

In addition to many olive, orange, and decorative trees, there are several rose gardens.

and many veggie and herb gardens.

Eric meanwhile sent up the drone to get views of the property from above. In this one the extense of the gardens can be appreciated.

This one particularly shows the gorges leading into the national park.

We spent a large portion of the day relaxing by the pool.

The next day we headed for our last stop: Marrakech. On the way we stopped at Le Paradis du Safran, an organic garden specializing in saffron. We had just missed the saffron harvest by a couple of weeks, but they had a couple of the flowers left to show us. The spice is derived from the stigma of the flower gently pulled off then dried. It takes a person 3 hours to collect the 200 flowers and remove theirs stigma to produce 1 gm of saffron, which is why it is the world’s most expensive spice.

The saffron field no longer had flowers, but the fields are expansive.

We wandered around the extensive gardens that had almost every fruit tree and herb imaginable.

One herb we did not know previously was this scented geranium, which has been included in teas and flavored waters we have been served while here.

The fruit trees also included ones we had not seen before like this kumquat tree.

And one we had never even heard of before called a pomelo.

When we had tea and snacks after touring the garden, we were actually served a pomelo which turned out to be much like a smaller, slightly sweeter grapefruit.

The grounds had pretty nice views of the High Atlas Mountains.

And some cute decor. These guys actually were triggered to play as we walked by.

They are also known for the “sensory garden.” We were encouraged to remove our shoes and walk through the different sensory stimuli. The peacocks and peahens took off before we walked through.

After the feet were stimulated, there was a series of baths, salts, rinses, and finally scented herbs to rub onto the feet before snacks were served.

We then drove up to the red city: Marrakech. As per the usual mo, we were met just outside the medina by a porter from the hotel. I realize, I have never included a pic of the little hand trucks the porters use to transport luggage through the streets of the medinas. Not all are a decorated as this one.

We were greeted at L’Hotel Marrakech, which is really a riad with its innocuous door.

The turn into the narrow entryway.

And the beautiful central garden.

We were shown up to our private terrace overlooking this courtyard.

And into our room styled in the 1930s French motif.

After we settled in, we wandered back out into the medina for Eric’s badly overdue haircut.

We had a lovely dinner by the fire in private in the dining room. I have probably not mentioned before, but this is the best time to be in Morocco. The weather is still gorgeous, and the tourism is at a low. In several of our accommodations, this one included, we have been the only guest for 1 or more days of our stay, such personal attention and privacy, luxurious.

After breakfast (included in every place we have stayed) Mohammed, our guide for the day, met us at the riad. Having been in the country at this point for over a month, we challenged him to find information and food we had not yet experienced. He rose to the challenge and succeeded on both counts!

First he took us out into the street of our neighborhood and explained that the larger medinas, like in this city, are divided into neighborhoods called derbs. The derbs are mostly residential, although now a lot of homes are being converted into riads and spas. Each derb has its own prayer hall for the daily prayers, but is not a mosque and does not have Friday prayers.

We are in derb Sidi Lhassen ou Ali. Sidi is a special title for a male, like “lord,” Lala for a female. Lhassen ou means “son of” like ben in Hebrew.

Many derbs also have shrines to saints that previously lived there.

Mohammed also explained that as plumbing was introduced into the medina, the pipes were laid, then the road built up over, which is why many doors and homes are now significantly lower than the street.

The houses are numbered from right to left, as Arabic is written. Shrines, prayer halls, and mosques are not numbered. He also explained why so many of the doors seem to have a smaller door within a larger frame. The smaller door is for people, the larger was to allow for the animals to enter. Nowadays most people in the medina do not keep large animals in their homes, (they have motorbikes) but keep the old doors because the smaller doors are cooler.

As families grew, if extra space was needed, the house could be built right over the alley.

Several derbs open into a larger space that is the center of the neighborhood of the medina. As explained previously, each neighborhood had its own mosque, hammam, bakery, water supply, and madrassa. Our neighborhood mosque with the accompanying water fountain have been converted into a museum.

The central area onto which all the derbs open is the area for shops and services like mechanics, tailors, electronics, food

and barbers

And nowadays, a laundromat

Our neighborhood 16th century madrassa now is also the local public school.

The neighborhood bakeries were once public. They are all now private businesses that charge a nominal fee if used by a private person. But mostly they bake enormous quantities of bread for the hotels.

This is the current neighborhood mosque.

The latrines were also once all public and centrally located.

This one is now in disrepair, but has the original area for washing clothes.

The toilets can be used for about 1 dirham (10 cents).

a close-up of the squat toilet. I only had to use one once in the month we’ve been here. No toilet paper but fortunately I had my own.

Then water is provided for washing after using the toilet.

The medinas are all undergoing restoration, which involves sealing and painting over the new cement bricks of the new buildings while keeping the original color for which the city is known..

Originally the groves and gardens that fed the city were immediately outside the medina walls. Today there are only token gardens in the urban sprawl that is Marrakech.

The hammam, still in use, can often be recognized because it has a large central dome under which people sit while in the sauna, for purification.

Recycling is huge here. Almost everything is recycled. While walking through our derb, we heard a man calling (in Arabic) for bread. He buys partially used or stale loaves and sells them to farmers as feed for animals. This donkey is pulling a recycling cart through the medina.

The next neighborhood we passed through was Laksour (palaces).

which is one of the oldest near the famous mosque: Koutoubia, which means book sellers. We got our first glimpse of the famous mosque.

As we neared, we could see the 12th century mosque and the nearby shrine.

Because of the Sept. 8 earthquake, the mosque is considered unstable and cannot be entered, which is why it is surrounded by barriers and the side and top are supported.

Originally in the space was an 11th century mosque, which was mostly destroyed but not removed; the ruins remain.

The Koutoubia Mosque was built in the Moorish/Andalusian style about the same time, by the same dynasty, as those in Sevilla and Rabat. They were based on the one in Cordoba (and the 11th century one which they destroyed). The columns are aligned to face the mihrab (prayer niche), which is facing mecca.

Beneath the old mosque is a large water cistern.

It is filled by water from the High Atlas mountains that comes through a system of channels.

The new mosque reservoirs are considered so special, they are considered a spiritual place and are named for special people.

Mohammed explained that the typical Muslim door style, the keyhole, with the upper horseshoe shape, dates back to the Romans who considered horseshoes to be good luck.

Like all mosques, there is a large public space adjacent, in this case a park.

The central round fountain, however, is more of a European, ie French, influence. The typical muslim garden is square, in 4 symmetrical quadrants.

Stork nests can be seen in the nearby cellphone towers.

Heading back toward the mosque

Mohammed pointed out the woman dressed all in white. He explained that she is in mourning. In a very strict family, she would not come out, unless in an emergency, for the duration of the mourning period, which is 4 months and 10 days. (If the death is a husband, in that time a pregnancy would be known.)

As we walked around the mosque, Mohammed explained that the minaret internally has ramps so a donkey could carry a man to the top to call for prayers. The external niches provided amplification of the sound in the days before electronic loudspeakers.

The braces around the minaret are to hold it together due to earthquake damage.

The post earthquake damage was dealt with quickly in Marrakech. The buildings across from the mosque have supports due to fears of crumbling, especially in the immediate post quake aftershocks. Marrakech is considered the “Image of Morocco,” so it was important that businesses reopen rapidly.

We left the mosque and crossed a huge busy intersection.

In the middle island is an old French canon.

Across the intersection is the road that leads to the Jemaa el-Fnaa, the largest, most important square in the Marrakech medina. At the entrance to the road is the horse carriage parking spot.

The horses are Bard horses, which are a cross between the Arabian and Andalusian breeds.

As we entered Jemaa el-Fnaa, we took a look back at the Koutoubia Mosque.

At the front of Jemaa el-Fnaa is the post office, still in use, and what was a bank, now a museum.

Mohammed had shown us a picture taken in the 1910s of this same location.

Jemaa el-Fnaa has been declared by UNESCO as a world heritage site due to the unique culture found here.

A lot of which can be explained in the museum. So before exploring the square, we decided to go into the museum inside the bank, already completely restored from the earthquake damage.

The inside space has the feel of an old bank.

Because Marrakech is well protected by the surrounding High Atlas Mountains, it was the central location for trade on the caravan trails between the ports, and their salt and goods from Europe, and from the East: gold, silver, rugs, produce. Jemaa el-Fnaa was the social center of Marrakech. In it could be found storytellers: Halqa.

Storytelling has always been an important tradition in Jemaa el-Fnaa, so much so that it has become a focus in theater and subsequently movies. There is an entire room in the museum featuring movies with scenes either made in or based on Jemaa el-Fnaa.

Other performers who frequented Jemaa el-Fnaa included the snake charmer.

And many musicians playing gnoua on the drum, the qaraba (castanets) and the guembri, the 3 string guitar.

The display below shows peoples who would have frequented Jemaa el-Fnaa including the seated scribe and the typically dressed tribal folks.

We then went back to the square.

Outside in the square we immediately found a snake charmer.

There were also several men with monkeys on chain leashes. Animal rights activists are vocal against both of these animal abuses, but UNESCO protects them because they are part of the heritage. I did not want to give a monkey trainer money for a picture, so none included. We made our way through more streets filled with shops in the medina. A favorite shop was this one full of instruments.

Then Mohammed made good on his second challenge. He found us food we had not yet tried: mechoui. any vegetarians, be warned. The following is for serious carnivores only. Mechoui is is an entire young lamb roasted is an oven in the ground.

We ordered up 2 kg of lamb, bread, mixed spiced olives, french fries, and a couple of cokes, and lunch was served. We figured we had been in the country over a month and neither of us had gotten travelers’ sickness, so time to live daringly. Once our portion was chopped up, it was placed in a bucket and lowered back into the hole to be warmed.

While we were eating, he pulled out a whole lamb, and we were able to see how it is roasted tied to a stick. It is eaten with salt mixed with cumin, as seen on the table, so juicy and delicious. After lunch Mohammed walked us down an entire lane of street food representing choices from all over Africa and the Middle East.

One note, a very annoying aspect of walking around the medina in Marrakech is the large number of motorcycles that come racing by often dangerously.

We then headed to the section with the souks and souikas, which is the diminutive meaning small souk. Traditionally, the souk is where the artisans are actually making the products. Usually the artisans do not sell their own products, but sell them to merchants who then sell them in kissarias, which are galleries that display the objects made by the artisans. Today they are a bit mixed up. But there are still some souks for specific crafts like straw weaving

and dying wool and silk

all the possible wool colors

all the silk colors

scarves come in all the colors of the sahara

today’s color is red. The dyed wool is hanging outside drying.

The pigments for the dyes can be bought, as well as the dyed wool, usually from the same stall as spices.

And near the souks can be found shops that hold the tools necessitated by those artisans like this one for tailors’ supplies

In places, several souks will open into a square like this very colorful one.

This rug marketplace has stalls with all new rugs, some specializing in rugs from certain regions, and some stalls buy and sell used rugs.

There is an entire metal souk

The souk haddadine is all metal works with sparks flying. Some items being made are utilitarian, but this man is an artist.

This man is soldering pieces together.

And this one is a locksmith for locks large and small.

In the leather souk we saw artisans doing everything with leather imaginable: dying, cutting, gluing, and sewing.

This man is cutting soles for making shoes.

We were introduced to man bags. Because most men wear djellabas, they do not have pockets. So they carry a bag over their shoulder.

This artisan specializes in saddles.

For the leather souk there is not only a parts supply store,

there is also a nearby knife sharpener. The wheel he uses is made of sandstone and will be used until it is mud, then he will get a new wheel.

This is the leather kisseria, with the typical high wood ceiling to protect the goods.

As we walked around we went down a street that has been braced since the earthquake.

And also this minaret, tied around because of the large crack right up the middle.

In this neighborhood, there is also a mosque and school with accompanied madrassa. It also had a museum, but we were not in the mood for another museum. We felt like the souks and kisserias are enough like living museums.

As described in Essaouira, fondouks were historically where camels were brought with their wares and were mini self contained markets. Because Marrakech was the largest trading sight, there were many such fondouks. Mohammed showed us a picture of one from 1910.

Today they are being renovated and are boutique shops or coops. We saw several.

They are often named for people or places if not the types of wares they sell. The one below still has the original scales.

As we got closer to the big hotels, the shops and boutiques became more upscale and more expensive, as seen in the fondouks above. Mohammed explained that this area with the nicer, bigger hotels was called the hivernage district which means wintering in French. During the French protectorate period, they would come to Marrakech during the winter months but spend the hot summer ones either in the mountains or near the seaside. While walking, Mohammed gave us a brief recap of the French/Moroccan history. As stated previously, in the early part of the 20th century, the French decided that Morocco needed protection not only from warring European nations, but also internally from the warring tribes. But really they were using Morocco for its resources. They built the railway systems and roadways to enhance the trade routes. They put no money into the medinas or infrastructure for the small villages. When they left in the 1950s, Morocco was left a bit destitute. Marrakech was a very poor city for a couple of decades. It was the hippies and the “discovery” of the “Marrakech Express” that put the city back on the map with an influx of tourists and with them money.

We left this neighborhood to head back to ours. Along the way we passed a palace, not of the king but of his family, called Darel Basha.

We asked Mohammed about the uniforms of the different military posted out front. At every entrance of every palace there are guards, usually several. He said each represents a different branch: the red is the army, the camo the equivalent to the marines, the grey are non weapon carrying somewhat like the national guard, etc. He says at least one from each of the branches are required to protect the palace for national security because each has a different chain of command. There is also a navy and an airforce, neither of which are represented here.

That evening, having already dared the street food, we went back out and dared it again, but this time with Middle Eastern fare: falafels, shawarma, and hummus.

The next day we spent the morning and early afternoon back in the medina, wandering and shopping for presents to take home. Later in the afternoon we headed to a hammam/spa. We had been in the country for over a month and had yet to try a hammam. Kamal had insisted that we go at least once. For obvious reason, I have no pictures. But I will describe the experience in detail because it was like no other. Public hammams have men and women separated. But in this tourist hammam, since we booked together, we had a couples’ experience. After tea and flavored water to prehydrate us, we were taken to the changing robes. They discouraged bathing suits because they are too difficult to work around. Eric’s was paper briefs. I was given a paper thong that covered very little, nothing for the top. We had robes and slippers until we got into the hammam. Then we lay first face down on a wet heated mat. The washers are all women. We were each scrubbed thoroughly top to bottom, front and back, (every inch for me, Eric briefs area excluded), with the black soap which is made from olive oil base. The washers left for a time, and we then lay there quietly for a bit. Then they returned and using a loofah-like mit, they scrubbed us hard going over every area several times, exfoliating every cell of dead skin and then another layer, or so it seemed. It bordered on painful in spots. Then, using warm water, we were hosed down in a standing position. We were then told to lay down again and were covered in a red clay. Again we rested supine for a bit. When they returned this time, after hosing us down, they scrubbed us with a more foamy soap, shampooed our hair, then hosed us down completely. The whole process took about 45 minutes. We were then wrapped back into our robes with towels around our heads and led into a room with cushions on the floor and again served tea and flavored water, this time plus some cookies. After resting here for a bit, it was time for massages, which Eric had opted out of. My massage was pleasant with just the right amount of pressure for me. It was also the most complete massage I have ever experienced (I have never had my breasts included before). I particularly enjoyed the scalp massage.

After, Eric met me we walked back to Jemaa el-Fnaa. We had been told by both Kamal and Mohammed that the best time to go is early evening when it is packed with street performers. This being a Monday night off season, it was not as busy as we expected. But there were dancers, musicians, and acrobats in addition to the snake charmers and monkey trainers. The street leading into the square from the big hotel area was teeming with people.

And we were able to watch the sun setting behind the Koutoubia Mosque.

We then crossed the square and climbed the stairs for a rooftop dinner at Le Grand Bazar.

In the morning Kamal drove us to the Majorelle Garden and the attached Yves Saint-Laurent Museum. From their website:

The Jardin Majorelle, which extends over 9,000 m², is one of the most enchanting and mysterious gardens in Morocco. Created over the course of forty years, it is enclosed by outer walls, and consists of a labyrinth of crisscrossing alleyways on different levels and boldly-coloured buildings that blend both Art Deco and Moorish influences. The French painter Jacques Majorelle conceived of this large and luxuriant garden as a sanctuary and botanical ‘laboratory’. In 1922, he began planting it with exotic botanical specimens from the far corners of the world.

In 1980, Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, who first arrived in Morocco in 1966, purchased the Jardin Majorelle to save it from destruction at the hands of hotel developers. The new owners decided to live in Jacques Majorelle’s villa, which they renamed the Villa Oasis. 

Upon entering the gardens we were immediately struck with the beauty of the many varieties of cactus, most of which were imported from Mexico and South America.

But what also stands out are the colors, specifically the Majorelle Blue, so named because of its use in this garden. Majorelle had noticed the colour in Moroccan tiles, in Berber burnhouses, and around the windows of buildings such as kasbahs, and native adobe homes. In Morocco it is known as the color of the sahara.

There is a koi pond.

and a memorial to the man YSL who passed away from brain cancer in 2008.

The garden has the tallest bamboo we have ever seen, and we saw a lot in SE Asia.

There are fountains throughout.

There were also a couple of cactus species that were unusual; neither of us had seen before.

There is a little building in which there is a shop supporting local artisans. It also has a room dedicated to all the “love” postcards that YSL designed yearly and sent to friends and family.

There is also a Berber Museum. From their website:

The Berber Museum, inaugurated in 2011 under the High Patronage of His Majesty Mohammed VI, King of Morocco, is housed in the former painting studio of the artist Jacques Majorelle.  It presents a panorama of the extraordinary creativity of the Berbers (Imazghen), the most ancient people of North Africa. More than 600 objects, collected from the Rif Mountains to the Sahara by Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent, attest to the richness and diversity of this vibrant culture, which is still very much alive today.

Pictures were not allowed inside the museum. There were artifacts, jewelry, and clothing of Berber tribes from throughout Morocco. We did not learn a whole lot more than we had visiting the villages throughout our trip. But it did make us feel grateful that we had truly visited all of the different cultures and learned so much during our journey.

The 2 pieces of trivia we did pick up, somehow missed prior, is that the Berber language is called tifinagh. I had previously taken a picture of the alphabet and will include it here

The other piece of information we picked up in the museum is about one of the symbols we had been seeing everywhere which looks like this

The specifics vary from tribe to tribe, but it is a triangle with the circle with a pin through it above. It classically was worn by a woman in a Southern tribe as a brooch to clasp her melhfa. If she wears one, she is single, two for married. The symbol itself is derived from a pagan one and is symbol of protection a little like the hand of God symbol used by all 3 Western religions.

We finished the Majorelle garden tour.

And headed to the YSL Museum. There pictures were forbidden again. The museum had a lot of line sketches made by YSL through the years and lots of his haute couture prototypes made through his decades of designing. The garments are each like a true work of art. There was also a little theater with a short documentary about his life and career and showed a video of his retrospective show at the time of his retirement in 2002. The only picture allowed was that of the central courtyard. The turtle is a suspended statue.

After the museum we took Kamal out for a thank you lunch. As we drove there we passed the large hospital/university complex of Marrakech where he has been taking his mother every 4 months for chemo for her breast cancer. We asked him about the health system in Morocco. A toubib is a healer. His explanation sounds very similar to ours in the US: the very poor have a public system that is free but overcrowded, understaffed, long wait times, and often inaccessible. Those that can afford can buy private insurance. But he has to drive 8 hours for the nearest cancer center. He has to pay for rooms for him and his mother for the several days they need to be in town for her treatments. And the out-of-pockets costs for the medical care are still significant. Dental is never covered and is very expensive.

For our lunch Kamal chose the Amal Women’s Training Center Restaurant with the mission ”to provide a safe and loving space where strong, resilient women can rewrite their narratives and step into their power.” It trains underprivileged women to be chefs. The restaurant food is cooked by the students.

I particularly loved the quote on the wall.

Kamal is a beautiful person who made our trip through Morocco a beautiful experience.

After lunch he took us on a driving tour through the new sections of Marrakech with the golf courses, large hotels and resorts. Businesses included everything from McDonalds and Starbucks to Saint Laurent and other boutique shops, Moroccan as well as international. The avenues are wide and palm lined looking a little like Miami but with the High Atlas Mountains as the backdrop. He then took us back to the riad for the last time. In the morning we were to leave Morocco and start our journey back to NY. Our 15+ weeks of travel was nearing the end.

After a long day of travel, we arrived in Taroudant (aka Little Marrakesh), after dark, precluding any pictures of the outside. We were introduced to Marouane, who would be our guide the next day, then whisked to our suite.

We enjoyed a lovely dinner and a bottle of wine, our first in a while as no alcohol was available in the desert. Alcohol is against the muslim religion and is sold in Morocco only in large grocery stores in the large cities. It is often served in the French style hotels, of which this was one.

After a good night’s sleep, we set off for town in our horse drawn carriage.

We were told that the wife of the former Shah of Iran owns the adjoining property on one side and the king of Morocco himself the property on the other. The king’s property does not have one of his 25 palaces, just a vacation home for his family. We passed the “Grand Canyon” of Morocco, home to a dried up river bed.

We approached the original town of Taradount, which is entirely within the walls. There is building now across the riverbed for a new town. At 7 km, it is one of the longest walls in the world. The town dates back at least 1000 years and was on the caravan road to Marrakesh. In the 16th century it was briefly, about 20 years, the capital of Morocco under the Saadian dynasty. Originally there were 5 gates, babs, but currently there are 10.

Unfortunately, the wall suferred great damage during the earthquake on Sept. 8

In several sections there are workers making repairs.

We passed the Thursday Bab, so called because just inside is held the weekly Thursday market.

We passed what was one of the originals hotels, now falling into disrepair because of missing inheritors.

We passed into the medina and got out to walk around inside the kasbah within.

There is a triple entrance to the kasbah for security.

It bears the name of the founder Saabi dynasty.

Marouane showed us the tax collector building. The name: Lachour means 10 in Arabic because one of the pillars of Islam is that one should give away 10% of income every year.

He showed what was once the madrassa, quran school, but is now a town meeting room.

What once was the courtyard of the kasbah is now a private home with electricity, running water and sewage.

There are 2 souks within the medina. The Berber souk sells mostly goods needed to run the home. What I liked about this souk compared to those we have seen is this is really for the locals not tourists.

There are clothing and shoe stores.

a bakery

dates and nuts

all different grains

More different honeys than I knew existed.

and of course spices

We passed a wedding planner who is displaying the typical local wedding garb

and a modern day ammaria for carrying the bride to her new home

Then we crossed over to the Arab souk, which is more artisans, particularly jewelry. Marouane took us to a jeweler who is unique in that he combines both wood and silver. He layers cedar, ebony, and silver.

Then he files them smooth.

The finished products are beautiful.

Another merchant Marouane introduced us to was one selling rugs, who taught me all about rug weaving. We had been to so many shops before, but never had anyone taken the time to explain all the differences. For starters, rugs woven by men are usually on a horizontal loom and tend to be thinner, more flexible than those woven on vertical looms by women. Remember the vertical loom in the home of the nomads v the horizontal loom in the shop in Tangier. In addition to regular weaving, there are techniques involving embroidering directly into the weaving. This can be done on only one side or on both, making the rug reversible. And the fourth technique is that of tying knots into the weave on one side. These rugs are fluffy on one side and like other woven rugs on the other. The fluffy sides are placed up in the winter for warmth, then turned over in the summer. While turned over in the summer, the weave loosens making them easier to clean. Historically the different techniques have been used by different tribes. The rug below shows all 4 of the techniques on one rug.

He also showed me a wedding rug which is made by the bride-to-be for her husband to show her personality (presumably they have never met) and what she expects in the marriage. The kasbah in the center represents their future home with entrances on both sides representing the 2 families from which they come. The kasbah contains goats representing their future prosperity.

We had a nice long lunch with Marouane who taught us a lot about the culture in the south of Morocco and how it differs from the north. In the south, a woman is not allowed to spend the night away from her home, not even at the home of a girl friend. A woman cannot check into a hotel by herself. A couple can be dragged into the police station for standing too close or touching in public. Once in the police station, if the girl’s father insists for the sake of her honor, they can be forced to marry on the spot. Marouane, who is Berber, says this is because of the strictness of Islam but is not the custom of the Berbers. He told us a story of a couple from his Berber village that were dragged into the police station. Many of the village Berbers went to the police station and made a racket protesting until the couple was released.

After lunch, we rode the horse drawn carriage back to the hotel, where I was able to get a picture in the daylight.

There was a peacock in the garden.

The place was really lovely.

In the morning it was time to move on again. Kamal was particularly enjoying this part of the trip. Despite having worked for JBT for over 12 years, he had never been to Taroudant before, which he had enjoyed exploring while we were guided by Marouane the prior day. The drive now through Tiznit and to Mirleft were all also new to him. We stopped in the town of Tiznit which was in the process of undergoing an entirely new sidewalk construction, so the place was a bit torn up.

We made our way to the Blue Springs which was the source of a khattara system previously.

Beside the springs sits the Kasbah Aghenaj, built in 1810 strategically next to the water source. The kasbah is currently a cultural heritage museum, closed because it was Friday afternoon.

It had some beautifully carved doors.

Outside the kasbah was the mosque, which was filling for Friday afternoon prayers. The minaret had branches sticking out from it on all sides which Kamal said he had never seen before and could not even venture a guess as to their purpose.

One thing Kamal did point out was how colorful the melhfas worn by the women are. In the north, the women tend to wear djellabas and, if they want to cover their face, a scarf or hijab. Very few women in Morocco wear the burkas common in other muslim countries. The djellabas of the north are usually subdued colors. Here in the south the melhfas are a long piece of cloth wrapped around the body and include the head. Most are brightly colored and/or patterned.

As mentioned previously, Morocco has been suffering a serious drought. In fact, it had not rained a drop in the over 3 weeks since we had arrived. When we got in the car that morning, Kamal told us that the king had declared that the entire country should devote their Friday prayers for rain. We looked at the forecast, and indeed rain was in the forecast for the afternoon. As we headed to lunch in Tiznit, while the mosques were full, the skies opened up, and it poured. We enjoyed a slightly soggy lunch in a cafe called A l’Ombre du Figuier, which translates from French as “The shade of the Fig.”  We were mostly underneath. After lunch we continued our journey to Mirleft. We arrived in the late afternoon to a muddy entrance at our next hotel: Kasbah Tabelkoukt.

The hotel is run by a French woman who has created a beautiful garden setting overlooking a spectacular beach view, but alas, it was still raining.

The next day Kamal picked us up and we drove south along the coast. We stopped at Legzira Beach, which required a significant hike down.

As we walked along the beach, Kamal pointed out the huge water tanks on top of the buildings, which he said indicated that the beach community does not have water and sewer systems.

It was a cute beach town.

But the facilities were clearly separate and primitive.

The beach is known for its natural arches. Apparently there used to be more, but some have collapsed over time. Kamal was very excited to see them having only ever seen them on postcards prior.

We walked through, took lots of pictures, then walked back.

There are lots of different types of accomodations for the adventurous tourist.

Of note, there may not be running water, but there are cell towers and plenty of satellite dishes.

And then we made the long hike back to the car.

We got back in the car and drove further south to the town of Sidi Ifni, also new to Kamal. We explored together. It was market day. One side of the market is for all the types of home goods one could imagine. I was drawn to the stalls selling the colorful melhfas.

But the booths ranged from electronics to bedding

to fishing gear

On the other side of the market were all the fruits and veggies. I had never seen such quantities of bananas, and this was just one of many venders!

These stalls made our farmers’ markets at home look like children’s toy stores. Again, this one of many, many stands.

We bought some oranges, bananas, and pomegranates. With Kamal’s help, we decided to buy some nuts. He asked the man for 5 dh worth, 50 cents. The vendor used a weight to measure the amount and it was a real bargain.

Then it was back to the hotel for a gorgeous sunset from the terrace,

dinner, and sleep. The next day was pure R&R. We slept late, read, worked on this blog, and hiked down to our own beach for a long walk along it.

There were a bunch of guys playing soccer on the beach.

From down the beach, we were able to see our hotel on the cliff.

After climbing back up, this is the view of our hotel from the beach path.

Then we hung out by the pool for a bit.

While I worked on the blog, Eric sent up the drone for some aerial views of us

the gardens

and a view of the front of the hotel

Next door is a large building project. There is so much construction going on all around Mirleft. As the Moroccan economy has prospered, and the planet has warmed, many are looking for second homes near the beach to get out of the ridiculously high summer temperatures.

We enjoyed another sunset from our terrace.

And a final delicious dinner prepared by the French chef.

Overall, we had a very relaxing day. The next morning we headed up the coast, still all new terrain for Kamal. We drove through the bustling beach town Agadir which looked a bit like Miami. We passed a McDonald’s. There are also KFCs and Pizza Huts scattered throughout Morocco. Kamal told us he once had a Pakistani-American muslim client who liked to stop at McDonald’s in Morocco because the meat here is halal which it is not in the US. This piqued our curiosity to compare McDonald’s here to home. So we stopped for lunch.

Both the exterior and interior look very similar.

The big difference is here once ordered using the touch screen, there is table service delivery. We each ordered something different. There were no pickles on any of the burgers and the cheese was white not yellow. The sauce was also a bit different. But overall, very much the same as at home. Kamal had only ever eaten in a McDonald’s once many years ago. He was particularly fond of the fries. At nearby tables was a group of boy scouts, very cute.

Back on the road we passed what I had been waiting for: goats in the argan trees!

We made it to Essaouira late in the day and checked into Riad Chbanate.

with the most gorgeous bathroom.

And had yet another delicious dinner cozy by the fire.

One thing I have not mentioned yet; on the table in addition to salt and pepper (sometimes instead of pepper) is cumin and always to be pinched between the fingers, not shakers.

In the morning we met Hassan, our Essaouira guide. As we started walking through the just waking up medina, he gave us some history. Essaouira was originally settled by Portuguese in the 15th century. They named the city Mogador derived from the Phoenician word Migdol which means small fortress. At that time it was the end of the caravan trading route that extended all the way to Timbuktu, Mali. It was an important port for goods coming in from Europe and also a source of salt. In 1740 then sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah hired a French architect to plan and build a walled city. Essaouira is Arabic for planned city, which was a first in Morocco. The medina has wider and straighter streets than any medina we have yet seen. Within the walls is a large cross of streets, a nod to the Christians by the French architect.

Hassan showed us the large squares which is where the traders would bring the goods for trading: silver, artisanal products, and produce. (Of note, slaves were taken from Africa and traded to the West, but slavery is against the muslim religion, so the slaves were taken to ports further south, not through Morocco.)

The camels were held in a central pen. Seller stalls were set up. The rooms seen on the periphery were for the traders to sleep. Hassan noted that the reason for the stone cobbled streets is that grains were considered too precious to be wasted by crushing. The grains would fall into the spaces between the stones. Overnight the birds would eat the grains, cleaning the streets.

The doors to the shops in the medina are blue. The fisherman believed that by painting the boats blue they would be camouflaged from the fish thus increasing their catch. The leftover paint was used to brighten the doors.

In this city, even the taxis are blue.

In the 18th century, at the city’s height, the population was nearly 50% Jewish. The Arabic word for Jew is mellah, which is also the Arabic word for salt. Before gold, silver, and ultimately coins, salt was the currency of the world. To call someone meleah in Arabic is a huge compliment, not only beautiful and charming but also a good person. The Jews were referred to as mellah because they were the original traders. The Jewish quarter in every medina is the mellah.

The Jews started leaving Essaouira in 1920 when under the French Protectorate, and partly due to the large size of the 20th century ships, the major trading port was moved from Essaouira to Casablanca. The port was not deep enough for the newer bigger ships. The exodus of Jews from Essaouira was furthered in 1958 when most returned to Israel. There are only 3 jewish families currently living in Essaouira.

Jewish doors often have the 6 pointed star of David. They often also contain the Essaouira Jewish star, aka the Mogador rose with its 6 petals.

In 2020 the site of the synagogue was opened as a museum called Bayt Dakira, which means house of memories.

It has a silver filigree mezuzah, a craft for which the Jews of Essaouira were known.

King Mohammad V was present for the opening in January 2020, his first visit to Essaouira.

He is proud of the historically harmonious cohabitation of the Jews and Muslims in Essaouira.

Inside the museum are several 300 year old torahs.

The ketubahs, Jewish marriage licenses, at the time were often decorated with gold.

The museum display also includes a shofar, blown in services on Rosh Hashanah and at the end of Yom Kippur, Teffilin, Tallit and a Yad, hand to follow the torah reading without touching the torah.

Hassan pointed out that the wedding garb is in purple, the color of royalty for the Romans. Essaouira was the furthest south the Romans came for trade, and it was the purple dye found here that drew them.

The purple is from the snail of the murex which is removed from the shell, dried, then crushed. The murex shells are found on the little islands directly off the coast of Essaouira, which are referred to as the Purple Islands of Mogador.

The Jews are credited for bringing the first tea into Morocco from India via Manchester, England into Essaouira. In addition to creating silver filigree, the Jews also created wooden inlay boxes from thuya trees, the most precious trees in North Africa. We would visit these shops later.

The current synagogue is attached to the museum, although they rarely have a minyan, the minimum 10 men needed for services.

After leaving the mellah, we headed to the lascala, which is a fortification on the water.

When building the fort, the Moroccans traded gold and ostrich feathers for cannons from all over Europe; they are all a bit different.

This one from the Netherlands has 2-headed handles. The dolphins, faced up, representing water, life, and peace are on the inner, Essaouira side. The dragons, faced down, symbolizing fire, death, and war are on the outer, enemy side.

From the fortress we have a view back at the town.

There is also a view out to the Purple Islands of Mogador. During migration, the very rare Eleanora’s Falcons from Madagascar can be found on these islands.

We next visited an antique shop that had many interesting items including this dowry rug made of silk by a mother from a wealthy mountain home for her daughter.

Furthering our rug making education, this map shows the different dyes used by different tribes by region in Morocco.

We walked beyond the fortress and through Hassan Square, named for the prior king. Hassan told us that for several days every June the Gnaoua Musical Festival is held here drawing over 200,000 musicians and visitors. The city has around 80,000 inhabitants. The music is said to have originated from the sounds of the “beat” of the camels’ hooves on the sand, now the drums, and the clanking of the slaves’ shackles, recreated by the castanets. The music is said to have therapeutic effects.

Then we headed out to the fishing pier. The tower seen below with its four corners was built by the Portuguese in the 15th century designed to resemble the Belem Tower in Lisbon. The tower was used in a scene from Game of Thrones. Several areas in town were used in GOT. Also, several other movies have been shot in Essaouira. Orson Welles shot so much of Othello in Essaouira that at the Cannes Film Festival he listed the movie as a Moroccan one. When Othello won the Palm D’Or, Morocco won its only movie gold.

Fishing is still the number one source of income to the town followed by artisanal works then tourism. The boats are made from the strong oak trees of the Atlas Mountains, and the flexible eucalyptus trees. The boats never go out with less than 3 men in them so if there is an accident with one, there is a witness and no accusations of foul play. The smaller boats have very long fishing lines with multiple hooks for the larger fish. The larger boats use fishing nets for the smaller fish. In the market the sellers never clean the fish. That is the job of another, of which the sellers would never deprive him.

The gate that welcomes those arriving by sea is called the Gate of Tolerance. It was built in 1740 but the date says 1184, from the Muslim calendar.

The Gate of Tolerance has symbols of all three Western Religions. Sea shells, the symbol of the Christian Pilgrimage to Santiago

The Jewish star of David within the Jewish Magoda rose

And the Muslim moons representing their lunar calendar

Hassan then took us to an art gallery representing over 70 artists’ works.

The building is in a 300 year old home with few renovations. It still has the original weight scales hanging from the beams.

He then took us to the silver artisans, originally made up of both Jews and Muslims.

This shop is known to have the first women apprentices, a fact that made the king so proud, he visited the shop when in Essaouira in 2020.

One of the artisans showed us how to tell that the silver is real and not an alloy. He use a black lava rock and scrapes it with the metal.

Then he applies the acid. The silver scraped area remains white; the non-silver area turns back to black.

He also explained that the colors used in the enamal filling between the silver filagree are the same colors as the Berber flag, which represents all of the Berber tribes: blue for those by the ocean, green for those in the mountains, and yellow for the desert dwellers. The symbol of the free man is in red to represent the blood of those spilled to achieve/maintain freedom.

Finally Hassan took us to the wood artisans.

As said above, they use the wood of thuya tree. A chisel is used to create spaces for the inlays. Lemon wood is used for yellow, acacia for black, and abalone shell for the mother of pearl.

Saw dust from shaving the wood is used as filler.

Here is a piece near completion.

The shellac is created from the resin of mimosa trees made from the secretions of insects feeding on the barks of the trees.

The finished products are stunningly beautiful.

On our way back to our hotel we passed women making amlou, a mixture of crushed almonds, honey, and argan oil. Had to try some: delicious.

After a bit of a rest, we headed back out for a late lunch, early dinner at La Clé De Voûte, a French/Moroccan restaurant with interestingly different food, oh so good.

After dinner we took a stroll to the beach. Essaouira is known for its temperate climate. It is also know for the waves and surf and is a destination for water sports enthusiasts.

Essaouira is also know as the windy city. It is home to many wind turbines. The day was a bit cloudy, but with careful looking, they can be discerned in the distance.

As the day drew to a close, so did our time on the coast of Morocco. On to the mountains.

Today we were in for a long car ride to the edge of the Sahara Desert. Leaving Ifrane there were Barbary apes along the side of the road.

We drove through Midelt, the apple capital of Morocco with a green apple statue on one end of town, a red one on the other. Unfortunately due to the drought, the trees were sad looking.

The we passed the Ziz Gorge and got our first glimpse of date trees.

Dates grow in large bunches.

The gorge was spectacular.

The valley is extremely fertile. The locals build homes in villages using the plentiful clay. Their villages blend right into the landscape.

We met Tata, who will be our guide in the Sahara for the next couple of days, at his parents’ home. His family has lived in Ziz for over 300 years. He explained that a family can build as many homes on their property as they have room for. Dates are the main source of income for the locals, and the only produce exported. The villagers farm in cooperatives for their own consumption. He showed us fava beans:

alfalfa:

carrots and turnips:

He and his son showed us many of the 40 varieties of dates grown here in Ziz Valley, home to over 3 million date trees.

Tata also lamented that their date industry has 3 threats: drought, desertification,

and a blight that has recently moved in.

We were then treated to snacks, of course with dates, in his home garden surrounded by fig trees, grape vines, and herbs.

We then made our final leg of the day to Erfoud, which has a date festival every October. Our hotel for the night was La Rose du Desert.

We had tea and snacks by the swimming pool.

Dinner was an abundance of Moroccan salads and chicken tagine with preserved lemon. Then it was time to rearrange our clothes to take just backpacks into the desert.

In the morning, before leaving Erfoud, the fossil capital of Morocco, we visited the fossil museum and shop. There is a quarry about 25 km south of Erfoud from which fossils and minerals are extracted.

Our tour started with an explanation that the theory is that all of the land was initially one giant land mass. This entire area was under a sea until about 225 million years ago.

The fossils found in this area include: orthoceras, an ancient mollusk that lived more than 350 million years ago. It had a shell with separate compartments which could be used as a ballast.

And ammonites which are cephalopods that lived in the jurassic and cretaceous periods 140-250 million years ago.

And crinoīdes, an echinoderm commonly known as sea lilies or feather stars.

And stromatolites which created by a bacteria that is microscopic and the first organism to be able to carry out photosynthesis.

And finally, trilobites, which are one of the most important early animals studied; they were the fist to have eyes.

There are also starfish found in this quarry.

Common minerals include gypsum.

and sand rose.

He explained how the fossils are found in the rocks, often discernable by their shape or a crack in the rock.

The they are sliced open and polished.

They can then be incorporated with marble or minerals to form decorative items

useful items like sinks

and tables

The shop is chock full of so many items we did not know where to look next. There were serving dishes of all shapes and sizes.

and tons of crystals and minerals.

We could have spent hours in there, but alas, it was time to move on. We next drove through Rissani.

Rissani is the spiritual capital of the current kingdom being the birthplace, and now resting place, of the first king of this dynasty. Rissani is the ancient capital of Tafilalet; its location as a crossroads between north and south on the caravan trading lines of gold, silver, and produce headed west to Marrakech and salt headed east gave the city a certain importance in previous times.

As we continued our drive we passed a road sign not likely to be seen at home.

We saw a group of dromedaries in a pen. Kamal would not let us call them camels (even though even some locals do) explaining that camels have 2 humps. Dromedaries have only one hump and are slightly taller and slightly faster than camels. A dromedary can drink 30 gallons of water in 15 minutes. The hump is both fat and water which can be broken down to sustain the dromedary for 3-4 days in the desert without food or water. There are about 15 million dromedaries in all of Africa (camels are mostly in Asia). No dromedaries currently live in the wild. They are all owned and used now mostly for tourists, at least locally.

We drove into Merzouga and got our first glimpse of the Sahara Desert. The layer of black rock on top of the sand is volcanic. The “mountains” in the distance are actually sand dunes.

We drove to Tata’s home. He invited us in for lunch.

When we washed for lunch we were amused to see that he has a fossil sink in the bathroom.

He showed us the ingredients that would be included in our meal.

While his sitser started cooking (and I was madly taking notes) Tata completed the tea ritual.

The star of the meal was to be a local specialty: mefouza. His sister began with making the dough.

She also began cooking three different veggie sides: eggplant covered in a marinated tomato sauce, peas with herbs and spices, and peppers. Tata’s son is her helper.

All three are cooked on charcoal in a clay cooker, a majamar, right inside the home.

She then rolled out the dough and started the assembly. First the spiced ground meat topped with boiled then baked almonds.

Next sliced hard boiled eggs.

Then covered with a second layer of dough which is pressed on the edges into the first.

Finally, it is baked in the oven out in the courtyard.

What a beautiful courtyard Tata has, full of date trees from Ziz Valley as well as herbs in his garden.

We sat down and enjoyed our best meal yet in Morocco, and that is saying a lot because we have loved the food!

After lunch we hopped into the 4WD vehicle that was to take us into the desert to our camp.

And we were shown to our tent, complete with shower, sink, and toilet.

Even in the desert we were welcomed with tea, almonds and cookies.

And dusk approached we were introduced to our dromedaries for a ride out onto the dunes.

From the top of the dunes we had a great view of the High Atlas Mountains to the east.

And a beautiful sunset over the sand dunes to the west.

The sand changes color as the sunlight recedes.

As we re entered camp a bit chilled, we were happy to see the campfire lit.

After dinner there was music and dancing by the campfire.

The families dancing with us were from Mount Vernon, NY and Norwalk, CT, small world.

In the morning we took a short walk east to watch the sun come up. We fist passed this beautiful desert flowering bush.

The sun came up over the High Atlas Mountains.

After breakfast we followed Tata through the desert. We passed irrigation fields of newly planted olive trees. Tata explained that there is a river that runs beneath the desert only 7-10 m deep. One can tell where the river is by looking at the plants. Many wells have been dug in recent years to access that water.

We could see lots of other camps in the distance as we walked. Tata told us that so many camps were springing up so fast that the government had come in to regulate them now.

We reached our destination which was the home of nomads. Tata explained that historically nomads made their living by breeding and raising animals and selling them at market to support their needs. When the grass ran out in an area, they would move to near another town. But today the nomads continue to breed and raise animals, but a lot of their income is from tourism (like our dromedary guide of the previous evening) and from farming. They are able to stay in place and afford to buy feed for the animals.

We were introduced to Hamid and his mother Zahara and were, of course, served tea. Hamid was recently married. His wife is continuing her studies remotely from here. Yes, there is cell service and wifi, albeit not fast, here in the desert. This doll is a representation of a nomad bride.

I have not yet mentioned cats, which are ubiquitous in Morocco, loved by everyone. They roam the streets of every city we have visited. We have been told that they are fed and cared for but almost never allowed inside. In the cities they keep the rodent populations low. I was surprised to see a cat in the desert, however. I was told that they are brought to the camps to kill the snakes and scorpions; well that’s a good thing! Scorpions in Morocco are not poisonous, but their bite still hurts a lot.

After tea we strolled out to the date grove.

Hamid told us that solar panels are used to power the pumps for the wells.

This well was dug by hand in about a week and is about 7 meters deep.

Solar energy is also used to run the irrigation systems.

This old well is covered because it had a butane powered generator which is no longer used.

In addition to irrigation for the date trees, there are several other crops grown for veggies and herbs for the family.

A big cash crop is henna, which is particular to the desert soil.

Once harvested, the henna plants are taken into this henna factory and hang in cool, dry rooms.

Hamid then explained that the leaves are separated from the seeds. The seeds are re-planted.

The dried leaves are then separated from the stems and made ready for shipping. Ultimately the leaves will be ground into a powder which will be the base of the henna product.

On the way back to Hamid’s home we passed this structure. Tata told us that there had been a flash flood not too long ago. The wall of this building was damaged by all the water. As the outer layer is peeled away, the mud brick base of the construction is revealed.

Because it was so windy, Hamid decided to serve us lunch inside his home rather than the tent. His mother and wife had prepared a meal of couscous, veggies, and chicken. In the corner of this room are all the rugs and blankets used for sleep. There is no heat in a nomad home. The walls are such thick mud and the windows so small it is cool in the summer and somewhat warm in the winter.

On the other side of the room is the battery storage for the solar power for electricity after the sun goes down.

The roof is made up of wood beams covered in bamboo and palm fronds which are covered by a layer of plastic then a layer of mud on top of that. After rain, which is rare, the roof almost always needs some repair work.

After lunch we retraced our steps though the desert to our camp, about an hour hike. We rested up before dinner, more music, and another night in the desert.

In the morning we were up and out early because we had a very long drive ahead of us. We left Merzouga, drove back though Erfoud, and headed west. We passed by an ancient khattara which is a series of wells and underground tunnels used in the atlas desert region for irrigation. These are all dry and unused currently.

We next drove to the very fertile Todgha Valley through which flows the Todgha River.

On the other side of the valley from where we were driving is the town of Tinghir, which is where Kamal lives with his family.

He explained to us that every family has a plot of land in the valley that they can farm. Because many families have outgrown their plots of land and the young no longer necessarily want to farm, a lot of the younger Moroccans work in Europe, send money home all year, then come home for the summer holiday. The area is also known for silver mines, which add to the affluence.

He then drove us up to the Todgha Gorge.

We then drove to a friend’s restaurant for lunch.

After lunch we drove through Dades valley, another very fertile spot full of almond trees and the fig capital of Morocco.

Then we drove past Kelaa Mgouna, Morocco’s rose capital known for its annual Rose festival in the Spring culminating with the crowning of Miss Rose. The town produces many roses and rose-scented products. Even the taxis in town are pink rose colored. At last we arrived in Skoura and drove out to our next hotel, Le Jardins de Skoura.

As one would expect from a hotel called Le Jardin, the gardens are gorgeous.

And they grow a lot of their own veggies and herbs.

The restaurant was quite cozy with a fire lit every night and the table set with scattered flowers.

In the morning we met Abdo who was to be our Skoura Valley guide. He told us that the Skoura Oasis, aka the Skoura Palmeraie, is a 25 km² man made oasis because it is derived from irrigation systems shared by the families living here to water their land. Initially the land was divided into plots for each family. But with each new generation the plots gets divided and re-divided then passed with marriages between families. So now any individual may own several plots of varying sizes throughout the area. Most of the plots have become too small to sustain a family. So similar to the Todgha Valley, young people are being forced into the cities and even Europe to help their families financially. The irrigation system is ancient and complex. Each family gets 12 hours of water every 2 weeks. They have to divert the water to their various fields by moving mud and rocks to force the water to flow in the desired direction. Below is a length of irrigation not currently in use to show how rocks are placed to divert the stream.

And below is water flowing through a particular pipe.

In the picture below rocks and mud prevent the water from flowing into the pipe on the right.

In order to preserve the water allotted to them, the families form mini plots within their larger plot to assure the entire plot gets adequate water and to hold the water in place. Below is a recently irrigated field showing how the mini plots are formed to hold the water.

When the plants first come in, the mini plots can still be seen. Below is a relatively young field of alfalfa, which is a very common plant used for feeding livestock.

As the alfalfa matures and fills in, the irrigation wells become less distinct.

The life here is agrarian and families are interdependent. It happened to be olive harvesting while we were walking around. Families all join in the harvest and neighbors join each other with laughing, music, and sharing the meal breaks. They do not like to be photoed, so we were respectful. But almost every family offered us to stop and share their second breakfast with them. Moroccan farmers eat 5 meals a day: first breakfast is 7:30 before work, second around 10:30, lunch about 1:30, dinner after work is done, and supper after evening prayer. The olive harvest involves dropping plastic tarps around the base of the olive trees and raking the tree with poles to drop the olives. I did take a picture of the equipment. In the picture below the harvesting pole is hard to see but it is lying horizontally in front of the tree on the left.

Black olives come from the same trees as green olives, just harvested later. The green olive gives the higher quality oil but much less quantity. Because of the drought and the diminished crop, the olives being harvested here are all black because they chose quantity over quality this year.

Other common fruits grown in the region include figs, apricots, and pomegranates.

The apricot season is the shortest, lasting only 7-10 days, usually in March. The locals call anything that is joyful but very short, like a wedding festival, “like the season of apricots.”

Almond trees are also found growing in this valley.

Underneath the almond tree above are fava bean plants. Fava beans are a staple in the local diet. They can be dried and eaten in soups and tagine stews all winter for hearty meals. The plants in the shade of the tree will grow leaves but will not flower and grow beans. Something that does not thrive or do well is referred to locally “as the fava plant in the shade of the tree.”

And of course date trees are plentiful. One tree can produce thousands of dates.

The date tree grows 1-2 levels of branches a year. So one can tell the approximate age of the tree by the number of rows. The dead branches are removed each year and used as firewood or for roofing material. The stumps left behind are used for climbing. Date trees come in male and female. Only the females produce fruit, so of course are preferred. The farmers do not keep enough male trees for fertilization to happen naturally by wind. So in the spring, the farmers climb the male trees, collect the pollen, then climb the female trees to fertilize the seeds.

One cannot tell from a seed if the new plant will be male or female. Also, planting a seed would take years to get to an age of producing fruit. So to propagate new trees, the farmers remove daughter offshoots from the mother tree, then plant them in a new spot with lots of water. This is also done in the spring.

Oleanders are a common wild flower. The flower is beautiful, but both the leaf and the flowers are somewhat toxic. The locals say that someone who is beautiful on the outside, but not such a nice person, is “like an oleander.”

Birch trees are not very common, but are used to make furniture. They are one of the few deciduous trees locally that provide a bit of fall foliage.

The plant doing most poorly is the cactus. There is a fungus that has affected the cacti, killing them in droves. The cost of the fruit of the cactus seen below has gone up 10 fold in just the last 2 years.

The locals build their homes the same way they have for hundreds of years and similar to what we had seen in Ziz Valley and the nomads. They use local mud mixed with straw. Then it is either placed into flat molds and left to dry in the sun for a few days or arranged over layers of bricks.

For a more solid wall, clay is used for blocks, which would be too heavy to move, so the clay is tamped down into vertical molds. Once set, the molds are then moved to the next section.

The 3 slats at the bottom leave behind holes in the wall which allow air flow which helps the wall dry faster. In the restoration walls we saw in the north, particularly city walls, not home walls, those hole were left because it is felt that they allow expansion and contraction in freezing weather. But here in the south or in homes, the holes are filled in with mud to ensure better insulation.

Split palms make for good ceiling beams and door frames. The split wood is soaked in salt water for 2-3 weeks to prevent future termites. Roofs here are built basically the same as those of the nomads described above.

As one can imagine, none of this holds in heavy rains, but there is little of that here. If one is in a better financial situation, a layer of “glue” can be coated on the outside of the home, which is protective of rain. This is often dyed.

The windows all have the grates for air and privacy. Like in the north, they were originally of wood, but most here have been replaced with metal grates as in the above picture.

Electricity arrived in the Skoura Valley in 2000. It is such a new occurrence that when the locals offer guests to turn on a light they say, “would you like me to turn on the electricity?” Most of it is now solar powered.

This is the first area in Morocco we have visited that was affected by the Sept. 8 earthquake. Abo described his own experience of feeling his home shaking. Only a few homes were completely destroyed. Below is a kasbah that was mostly destroyed.

Kasbah in the south has a different meaning than in the north. In the north a Kasbah is a fortified palace or home of a king or sultan, depending on the kingdom, but basically a mini city. In the south, a Kasbah is a fortified home of any important family or dignitary. It is basically a very large home with 4 towers and it must be 4 stories high, otherwise it is just a dar. This area is called the “Road of a Thousand Kasbahs.” Many of the Kasbahs are now guest houses. But many are in disrepair. In order for a Kasbah to be sold, renovated, or basically anything but neglected, ALL of the family members must sign the appropriate papers. But because the families are large and now generations have passed, some of the kasbahs have been inherited by over 100 individuals who may either disagree as to the disposition of the kasbah or in some cases family members cannot be found or reached.

After walking around the valley all morning, we stopped in to visit a potter who makes ceramics in the same way as his father and the 3 generations preceding him. He obtains his own clay from the local hills and transports it back on his donkey. He then breaks up the pieces by pounding with a heavy log.

He uses a sieve to get a pile of fine dust.

He then mixes the dust with water.

He kneads it very much like dough for bread. Then he spins his wheel manually using his feet. The wheel he uses is an old tire wheel because it is much lighter than the one use by previous generations. His young daughter is his helper.

While he shaped the clay, Abdo served the tea brought out by his wife. No visit to any Moroccan home is without tea.

The item he made today is a majmar: coal pot for cooking tagine on top.

The finished item will sit in the sun for a couple of days. Sunday he will light the fire in the oven to fire all the products. The heaviest items are placed first into the bottom of the oven.

He uses dried herb plants from the area for a very hot fire.

Then he is ready for the market on Monday.

Upon leaving the potter’s home, we passed a mosque. The Skoura Valley is divided into several regions, each with their own mosque and elementary school.

The Imam’s home is right next to the mosque. The Imam’s home is identified by the dome shaped roof.

The elementary school is brightly painted making it a cheery environment for the children who walk or ride bikes to and from in groups – up to 5 km each way for secondary school – and go home for a 2 hour lunch break in the middle of the day.

We passed an area with a view of the High Atlas Mountains. Abdo told us that usually they have snow on them by this time of year, but it has been unusually warm this year. It has only snowed in the Skoura Valley once in his lifetime of nearly 30 years; it was in 2018.

The last thing Abdo showed us on our way back to our hotel was a system of wells for irrigation used in ancient times before the current system. They looked very much like the khattaras we had seen outside Erfoud but on a smaller scale.

We enjoyed another relaxing evening and dinner by the fire before heading out the next day. In the morning before leaving the Valley of the Kasbahs, we payed a visit to Kasbah Amridil, which made an appearance in 1962 in the film Lawrence of Arabia. 

Kasbah Amridil was originally founded in the 17th century as a ksar: a fortified village. In the 19th century a prominent family from the ksar was chosen for the privilege of building a kasbah. The same family still lives in one section but has opened the remaining sections as a museum showcasing the traditional architecture of the building and local traditional artifacts. The ksar has fallen into disrepair. A guide of the museum first showed us some of the artifacts in the entryway. An olive press

and the wheat mill

and a butter churn

We then entered through the main door. Because a kasbah is a fortified structure, the walls are very thick, especially at ground level. All kasbahs walls are somewhat pyramid in shape, narrowing to the top. The thicker walls are needed for security more at ground level, but also for the stability of the structure and also have the added effect of having better insulation nearer the ground and more air flow at the upper levels. The ground floor walls are a minimum of 50 cm thick.

This original door also has a double deadbolt and keys.

The first level of the kasbah is for the animals with a stall right in the center open to the sky for air flow (odor reduction) with a post to tie the animals onto. The surrounding rooms are used for smaller animals, to store feed for the animals and wood for the stoves.

The stairs to the upper family rooms are purposely uneven so an enemy that might breach the door would stumble and make noise on the ascent. Originally there were no handrails. They were added later for tourists.

Above the stable is the kitchen.

The round oven in the corner, similar to the one in Tata’s home, is used for guests or special occasions because it is inefficient with the use of wood/heat. The everyday ovens can make several loaves of bread at once by placing the dough against the heated side walls creating a saddle shaped loaf.

A double boiler steamer is used for couscous.

Fridays in Morocco are couscous days when the family gathers after mosque to eat a large meal of couscous and steamed veggies, and meat if they can afford. Everyone eats off the same platter from his/her section. This is a tradition that has survived for centuries.

The tagine is cooked on a majmar similar to that made by the potter in the village the day before, although this one is metal. It is amazing how little has changed in the kitchens of the villagers in several centuries.

The poles in the center of the kitchen are for hanging meat for smoking. The smoke not only preserves the meat, it has the added effect of protecting the wood ceiling from termites.

The dining room is the long room off the kitchen. The family sit on rugs on the floor.

In this dining room some artifacts are displayed including this for hanging milk to make cheese.

and this juicer

And this item for washing hands before the meal. Water is poured over the hands into the bucket below. We have actually been offered similar washers in homes we have visited.

Also on display here are the quran school tools. When learning the quran, the child writes out the verse on a wood tablet then memorizes it. Once memorized, he must be able to recite it to the instructor. If successful, he then washes the tablet clean and moves on to the next verse. If unsuccessful, the bottoms of his feet are slapped with palm fronds, and he must go back and try again.

The ink for the tablet was made from burning sheeps wool to cinder then adding water. The pen was a small piece of bamboo.

The upper courtyard above the kitchen was used for the madrasa, the quranic school.

In each of the for tower corners on both of the upper levels were the family bedrooms. Typical Muslim families are multigenerational living together. In addition, polygamy historically was not unusual. Today in Morocco, polygamy is legal up to 4 wives. But the rules are that the first wife must give permission and all of the families must be treated equally with regards to home, finances, etc.; they do not all live together anymore. With these restrictions, polygamy now is less than 0.5% of all families; the first wife usually today only gives permission if she is unable to have children.

Most kasbahs by definition have 4 towers. This one is unusual in that it has a fifth tower

within which is a latrine for the women only; the men go outside.

The hole style latrine begs me to make an aside here about bathroom facilities in Morocco. We had been warned before arriving that squat toilets, which are basically shaped like a shower stall with a hole in the center, are the norm and toilet paper is often unavailable. Kamal has gone out of his way to find tourist friendly bathrooms along the way. But we were surprised that even when seat toilets are available, squat toilets are often also available at the same location. Kamal explained to us (when one spends as much time in the car together as we have with Kamal, no subject seems off limits) that before entering the mosque for prayers, a Muslim must perform ablutions, ie cleansing. There is usually a fountain or at the very least a bucket outside the mosque. First the face is washed, then the hands, then the feet. For obvious reasons, one does not wash one’s genitals standing outside the mosque. But it is assumed that the genitals have been cleansed. Beside every squat toilet is either a water spray, or a spigot, or again, at the very least, a water bucket. Kamal explained that Muslims find it easier to clean the genitals with more room to move squatting than sitting. The lack of toilet paper is because water is used instead. Most carry a towel to dry themselves.

Back to the kasbah. On this upper level, the walls are much thinner in places.

The original windows are quite small and slanted downward making it difficult to fire in but easy to spy on an approaching enemy.

The upper courtyard also has a drainage system that whisks rainwater away to prevent erosion, but also to be stored.

The decor on the top of the kasbah shows that it was a muslim family. If it were a Jewish family, and there were many in the region, the decor would have been a simple triangle.

From this upper courtyard, the ruined ksar can be seen. In it would have lived all of those who would have served this prominent family.

Outside the kasbah is this very old tamarisk tree. The wood from the tamarisk tree is very strong and good for doors and ceiling beams. The seeds are used for hair dye. The tree grows well in salty and alkaline soils.

Then we hopped back in the car and headed toward Zagora on the edge of the desert. Leaving Skoura Valley we passed the Nour Power Station. At 510 MW, and costing $9 billion to build, it is the world’s largest concentrated solar power plant. We had just a glimpse from the road.

The first town we passed through was Ouarzazate. Upon entering town we drove by the Taourirt Kasbah, which means “up on the hill” in Arabic. Originally built in the 17th century, it was renovated by the Glaoui family in the 20th century. They were the “Kings of the Atlas” during the French Protectorate period.

Historically the route we are traveling on was the Sahara caravan trading route. Ouarzazate was a major stop because it is where the Dades and Draâ Rivers cross. But today Ouarzazate, which means quiet in Arabic, is know as the Hollywood of Morocco, “Mollywood.” We passed a film school on the outskirts of town. There is a clean modern airport. And there are several large movie studios in town.

Next we drove to Ait Ben Haddou Ksar. This ksar is a traditional pre-Saharan habitat. The houses crowd together within the defensive walls, which are reinforced by corner towers. Ait-Ben-Haddou is a striking example of the architecture of southern Morocco. First we stopped for a scenic pic from afar.

Then we parked and hiked to the ksar.

And then climbed to the top. Unfortunately the top crumbled in the Sept. 8 earthquake and has yet to be restored.

But there are panoramic views from the top.

Once back in the car we continued along the Draa River Valley.

This area is typically lush with Date Palms, but the drought has been severe and affected this area particularly harshly.

At last we arrived in Zagora and checked into the Azalai Desert Lodge.

Alas, we were there one short night, then headed on toward the desert. Kamal left us in the hands of local desert driver Hussein. He took us first to the town of Amerzou where local guide Abdo showed us around the Kasbah, which here is more like those in the north, a mini walled city. Inside he showed us the ancient synagogue. The hole in the wall was where the torah was kept.

The door to the home below also speaks to the community of jews that once lived here.

What was most interesting in this tiny town was the hidden huge cooperative that sells all kinds of artisanal wares.

When we first entered there were men repairing old doors.

The coop guide (yes, our driver left us with a city guide who in turn left us with a coop guide; lots of people to tip) explained to us that before leaving for Israel in the 50s, the Jews taught the locals some of thier crafts including not only woodwork, but also silversmithing. Today the coop is a combination of restored antiques and newly crafted items. Many of the antiques are Jewish themed.

This samovar is in the style of those from Russia.

There were so many rooms in this coop! Like this one full of jewelry.

And this one filled with rugs woven by local women.

The next town we stopped in was Tamegroute, which is famous for the green pottery. But first we were shown, by yet a new guide Ashit, the Zaouïa Naciria. Since its creation, Zaouia Naciria has played a pioneering role in the different fields of science and thought, in addition to its religious and social mission. It was the place where scholars and students converged in search of knowledge in view of the precious documents and works with which it abounds, which made it an important Sufi and science center in the Draâ region and a crossroads for commercial caravans.

The library holds and preserves over 4000 manuscripts. Founded by Ahmed Naciri in the 17th century, the collection includes valuable secular works of medicine, history, and theology in addition to illuminated qurans, written on gazelle skin. There are works of astrology, astronomy, mathematics, and pharmacopeia, some of which date back to the 13th century.  The oldest Quran is from Cordoba in 1075. The calligraphy and colored illustrations are beautiful. Unfortunately, pictures were not allowed inside.

We then visited the medina, which in Tamegroute is mostly underground to keep cool in the hot summers. It has both plumbing and sewage.

Just outside the medina is a cooperative of potters. The one we were introduced to was spinning his wheel with his feet below ground to keep cool.

He took us to where they were feeding the large ovens filled with pottery. He showed us the different clays that they use: both the traditional red clay, and the grey clay seen in the picture below.

The grey clay is a mixture of among other things, magnesium, copper, and selenium and sometimes mixed with flour without salt. Depending on the heat of the fire, the finished products will come out either blue, green, or green with glaze with increasing temperatures, respectively. It is the selenium that gives the shine. They are most known for their green shiny pottery.

But they sell everything in their store.

This town, like all on our route of the last few days, was a major stop on the caravan trail. They have signs pointing the way to Timbuktu claiming it is only a 52 day ride, on a camel of course.

We then met back up with Hussein who had a picnic lunch ready for us. Then it was another hour through two more tiny towns before the road ended. Then another two hours off road through the desert before we reached our camp in Erg Chigaga.

This was as remote a place either of us had ever been. Our home for the next two nights was an eco dome.

Ours was a luxury eco dome compared to those in the sister camp over the dunes; we had a bathroom attached.

Our camp included four eco domes and a dining room. The kitchen was in the sister camp. Neither camp has a well, being too far out into the dunes. Water is brought in using large containers that are hooked up to the domes using tubing. They have dug their own septic fields.

After settling in we were called to meet the camels (actually dromedaries, but even the locals call them camels). Our camel driver took us out to the higher dunes to watch the sun set.

After watching the sun set in the west, we turned around and watched the moon rise in the east.

We arrived back in time to enjoy dusk in camp then clean up before dinner.

After dinner a bonfire was lit as the air chilled quickly.

Our host in the camp was Hamid, seen above. He and Hussein slept in the sister camp. As there were no other guests, we were alone in camp at night.

After breakfast we set out for our serious camel ride, 1.5 hours through the desert, this time with packs on the camels to carry the provisions. Along the way we passed gazelles, but they were too quick and I was bouncing too much to get a picture.

Interestingly, the desert ecology changed a couple of times from pure dunes, to a dry looking brush to a rocky surface until we reached our destination which was full of acacia trees. There we met with a group of nomadic camel herders. We set up under a large acacia tree for a picnic.

Of course the teapot made the trip.

The nomads showed us how to bake bread right in the hot sand and ashes.

Kebabs were added to the hot coals.

Once the bread was finished and all the sand and ashes scraped off, it was surprisingly yummy. It had an herb and spice filling.

Meanwhile the dromedaries were making very loud funny sounding rumblings coming from deep in their throats and accompanied by a significant amount of saliva production. Hamid explained that these are mating calls. All of the dromedaries used for tourists are male; the females are kept for breeding only.

After lunch we were given the choice of a camel ride back to camp or having the 4WD truck come for us. Our tushies had chafed enough for one day on the ride out, so we chose the latter. Hussein came for us (Hamid and Hussein had cell service in the desert; we did not) and took us to the home of some of their nomad buddies.

The nomad camp has its own well, stable for animals, eating/sleeping tent, and kitchen. They invited us in.

Immediately upon our arrival the mother and sister disappeared. The father had passed away. The 3 brothers and a neighbor friend played host. Of course tea was prepared by the youngest and ritually served by the eldest.

Visible behind the tea making brother is the upright loom, which is used by the mother and daughter to weave rugs.

Time for an aside about the culture. Women do all the “home” work: cooking, laundry, taking care of the children, and weaving. The men do all the work “outside” the home like tending animals, trading goods at market, etc. Women are not to be seen, even at home if guests arrive. But one of the experiences most positive about visiting this family was the genuine warmth and affection exhibited between the men. When Hussein and Hamid arrived with us the were vigorously embraced. And when we gathered around for tea, the men actually snuggled together on the rugs laughing and genuinely enjoying each others’ company.

Before leaving we took a peak inside the kitchen.

Nearby was the local school for the nomad children.

They had gone home for the day, so we were able to take a look inside the classroom.

The school has its own well and a playground outside.

Once back at our camp we had some time to laze around before sunset, so Eric sent up his drone to take some aerial views of the sister camps.

And the extensiveness of the dunes.

The resident cat paid us a visit.

As the day came to a close we hiked the dunes to again watch the sun set, so very peaceful.

We were treated to yet another delicious dinner – seems like all we do is eat – and another quiet bonfire to counter the nighttime desert chill before snuggling into bed.

We left immediately after breakfast; we had a long drive ahead. We were met by Hussein who told us he had visited friends during the night and his car had broken down. So very early a new car had been dispatched to pick us up. Along the way we stopped to see a natural spring bubbling up out of seemingly nowhere here in the middle of the desert, which makes it understandable that there can be so many wells here closer to the edge of the desert. There are tadpoles and frogs in the spring water. There were also several nomad camps around.

At this point we were a little less than halfway into our 2 hour ride out of the desert, we had just passed the cell tower, when a bolt came off the suspension holding the driver side rear wheel onto the axle.

A third car was called. While waiting, the driver and Hussein managed to find the bolt and reconnect the suspension, but without the nut to hold the bolt in place, we still could not drive away.

Over 2 hours later, car number 3 arrived. On our final leg out of the desert we passed oryxes.

Kamal was anxiously awaiting our arrival in the very first town on the edge of the desert. We still had about 6 hours of driving to our next destination, one he had never been to before. We had planned to stop along the way to see saffron growing, but time was not on our side so we drove through the day and into the night away from the Sahara Desert for the last time.

We arrived in Rabat in the early afternoon. Our hotel was in the middle of the medina.

Dar means house or home. Riad is specifically a home with a garden, usually in the center. So not sure why this one is called Dar and not Riad. But note the entrance opens into a hallway. We have been told that the Muslim culture encourages one to be humble. Part of the reason for the long plain robes is to hide any good clothing or jewels. The homes are the same. They are supposed to be humble from the outside so as not to boast wealth. So even with the door open, one should not be able to see into a luxurious space within.

Only once inside does it open into the lush space seen here. The bedrooms in Dar Shaan all open into the courtyard not outside. That is also typical. In a traditional Muslim home, for privacy, there are often no external windows.

Once settled in we took a walk to the kasbah.

Here it is not within the medina but across the street. It had been a site of dwelling Phoenicians, Carthaginians and Romans, but had been mostly tribal. In the 12th century Almohad Muslim tribes established their Moroccan empire. It was then that the first ribat (or, fortress, from where modern-day Rabat takes its name) was built on the site of the current Kasbah. Rabat then became the first Moroccan capital. But over the centuries due to fighting between tribes, the area’s population dwindled. It was not until the 17th century when the last of the Moors were expelled from Spain that many settled here and further developed this fortress as well as the one in Salé across the Bou Regreg River.

Built in the 12th century, the monumental Bab Oudaya Gate, located uphill and overlooking Rabat below, is considered one of the most beautiful gates of Almohad Moroccan architecture. Once through, the first thing is, of course, a water fountain.

We strolled around looking for the promised gorgeous views. But there was so much mist off the ocean, it was difficult to see far.

We made our way down to the bottom, newer section of the kasbah and stopped for tea and almond cookies – there were about 7 or 8 different ones to choose from – at Cafe Maure.

We then strolled through the Andalusian Gardens developed in the early 20th century during the French protectorate of Morocco (more on that later). What makes a garden an Andalusian one are the inclusion of three elements: several levels; a water element; and foods, herbs, and/or fruit trees.

We left the Kasbah from the lower end and had a view of the tower.

We then crossed into the medina, which was really bustling in the late afternoon.

Dinner was tagine in Dar Shaan. We then retired to our room, which, as I’ve said, looked out onto the courtyard.

In the morning we met with our guide Esma, newly graduated from a guide program, one of 2 women in her class of 50. As she walked us into the medina, she explained a bit about the history of Rabat, which is the current capital of Morocco and home of the king. In 1912 France decided that Morocco needed protection. They moved in and controlled Morocco and its resources. They allowed Spain to control the most northern and southern regions, but they kept control of the central portion of the country. The king was called sultan during that time. He was allowed to live in the country but had little power. This period of time is called the time of the French Protectorate. The king was exiled to Madagascar in 1950 but with help from friends returned in 1953 and fought his way back to power. Morocco achieved independence in 1956. One can see in Rabat, more than most other cities in Morocco, the influence of the French in the architecture.

Upon entering the medina, Esma pointed out that you can immediately tell which are the Moroccan homes, those with no windows on the outside, and which are the French, windows and even balconies. The first street of the medina is called the Avenue of the Consuls because prior to the French protectorate it was home to foreign consuls including those of Sweden, Denmark, and Holland. Today it has Moroccan government offices.

The entire medina has been designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, and has undergone major restoration in the last few years as can be seen by the new appearance of the exteriors of the shops.

But it also retains the old elements like the water sources.

As we walked through the medina she pointed out the different spices popular in Moroccan cooking and teas for infusions.

She showed us the huge variety of oils, infusions, and products for hair, skin, face, and bathing.

And she showed us the huge variety of dates grown in the country.

Then we left the medina and entered “New” Rabat built during the French protectorate period.

Here can be found examples of early 20th century French architecture. In the building below, when part of it was removed for the adjacent new building, the removed parts were painted onto the new adjoining building to maintain visual continuity.

We passed The Bank Al-Maghrib, the central bank of Morocco founded in 1959, after independence. It is the successor to the State Bank of Morocco which had been founded in 1909 to “stabilize” the Moroccan currency for and by European influence. It was built here in Rabat by the French in 1925 to represent the city’s enhanced status as the country’s new capital (transferred from Fez).

We passed the parliament building.

And the train station built by the French in 1925 and currently offering high speed train access to multiple cities around the country.

The area in front of the train station and Parliament buildings was the French military parade ground.

Then we passed the Credit Agricole, a bank of France still in Morocco.

And we passed a French school, which is private and expensive, with ties to universities in France.

Esma explained to us that the current king has been pushing for years to expel the French influence financially and culturally from his country. In two years French will no longer be the third official language of the country and taught in schools; English will. She went on to tell us that the current king is very popular with the people as is his son. The king’s son is currently enrolled in a public college because he wants to learn as the common people do and understand their experiences. The entire royal family is believed to be in touch with the people of Morocco that they serve.

We then went to the St. Peter’s Cathedral of Rabat. It was built in the art deco style in 1921 by the French. Understanding that Muslims preference for a humble exterior and Muslim law does not allow for depictions of any human or animal forms, the French were respectful and kept the exterior quite plain.

The interior is decorated with mosaic tiles depicting the stations of the cross.

There is no large altarpiece.

Behind the altar is a stained glass window.

Outside we were passed by the local metro, which is quite clean and modern in appearance.

We then headed to Yacoub Al Mansour Square. One enters passing two guards on horseback who change every 4 hours without ceremony.

Inside the square is a mosque, a museum, and a mausoleum. At one end is a museum of the history of Morocco with an elevated porch and domed arches surrounding a pavilion. At the other end is the mausoleum. Between the two elevated structures is the mosque.

The museum is currently under renovation. The mosque is not open to the public, but the mausoleum is. King Hassan II commissioned the construction of the Mausoleum of Mohamed V for his late father, Mohamed V, in the year 1962. Construction of the Mohamed V Mausoleum was completed in 1971. Both of his sons have subsequently been buried there. It took over 400 builders and craftsmen nearly 10 years to complete the project.

It was designed by a Vietnamese architect, hence its elevated design, not typical at all for a Muslim tomb. There is a guard at every entrance. They change every two hours.

Inside are the tombs. Muslims must be buried underground so the bodies are actually about 10 feet below the decorative sarcofagi.

King Hassan II wanted to encourage traditional craftsmanship as a means to promote a sense of Moroccan identity and showcase to the world the beauty of Moroccan artisans’ work. The floors are marble.

The lower walls are covered in mosaic tiles.

The friezes are carved plaster,

some of which have verses from the Quran.

The ceilings and dome are all carved wood. Every inch of the mausoleum is a work of art.

There is also a guard at every corner.

The imam comes in at prayer time and recites verses from the Quran from memory.

From the side entrance, the mosque next door can be seen.

Above every door is a passage from the Quran that reminds us that there is only one God: Allah.

Leaving the mausoleum, the view across Yacoub Al Mansour Square is that of Hassan Tower and the never finished 12th century Mosque of Rabat. The Hassan Tower was to be the minaret of the mosque. The mosque was based on the one in Cordoba and when finished would have been the largest in the Muslim world. The tower, like the Giralda Tower in Seville, was based on the minaret in Marrakesh.

The Hassan Tower now serves as the minaret to the mosque of the mausoleum, and is the only minaret in Morocco not attached to its mosque. The 12th century mosque was never completed because its builder died and the project abandoned. Many of the columns fell and suffered damage during the Lisbon earthquake of 1755.

On the wall next to the Hassan Tower is a family tree of the current king showing his descendance from the prophet Muhammed.

The space under the tower holds important archives of Moroccan history and is closed to the public. The fountain is turned on only when someone of importance is inside.

We then passed through November 16th Square, commemorating King Mohamed V’s return from exile on November 16, 1953. It happened to be November 16th that we visited.

We then walked down to the river where one can catch a boat and cross over to the sister city of Salé.

From here there is a good view of the Kasbah up on the hill.

In the 16th and 17th centuries pirates roamed these shores and looted European ships. But they did not steal goods. They only stole the sailors as white slaves, who were then used for labor or, if someone of importance, sold back for ransom.

Slaves found guilty of crimes were chained in the dungeon at low tide then drowned when the tide came in. The low round structure below is the dungeon.

In the afternoon we took a quick drive by Salé, most of which is under renovation.

We walked through the gate of the Kasbah.

And saw the door to the mosque.

And next to it the Quran school, the madrassa.

We then took a drive south along the Atlantic coast. We passed the newly built Grand Theatre of Rabat designed by Iraqi-British architect Zaha Hadid. The construction of the theatre is part of a wider national initiative by King Mohamed VI to promote the arts and cultural development. It is scheduled to open in 2024. Next to it is the Mohamed VI Tower, an office and industrial space also scheduled to open in 2024.

We then went for a very late lunch at Dar Naji Restaurant and had great food, great views, and lots of fun.

In the morning we headed to Fez. On the way we passed the city of Meknes, one of the 4 imperial cities of Morocco, ie one of the 4 cities that has been the capital: Marrakesh, Fez, Meknes, and Rabat. Meknes was founded in the 11th century and was capital briefly in the 17th during which time a large palace complex was built. Most of the town is currently under restoration. We stopped for a picture of the gate.

Next we stopped in Volubilis, a partly-excavated Berber-Roman city built in a fertile agricultural area. It developed from the 3rd century BC onward as a Berber, then proto-Cartaginian settlement before being the capital of the kingdom of Mauritania. It grew rapidly under Roman rule from the 1st century AD onward. The city gained a number of major public buildings in the 2nd century, including a basilica, temple and triumphal arch. Its prosperity, which was derived principally from olives, prompted the construction of many fine houses with large mosaic floors. The city fell to local tribes in 285 and was abandoned by Romans due to its remoteness. It remained mostly intact until the Lisbon earthquake of 1755. Once a lot of the buildings fell down, the area was ransacked for building materials. It was discovered by the French in the early 20th century. Excavations are ongoing.

We hired a local guide to show us around. One of the fist things he explained is that there were 3 types of stone used to build the town: marble from Italy for columns, local limestone for the building materials, and a form of lava rock used for milling wheat and grinding olives for their oil.

The site is a mix of cultures: Roman, Greek, and Berber. All 3 types of column capitals are found at the site; Doric, Corinthian, and Ionic.

In addition to all 3 capitals, there are examples of all 3 types of columns: the above smooth columns, the below twisted columns,

and fluted columns.

In the mosaics found in some of the houses, there are both Greek and Roman gods depicted. There are also many Berber symbols. Unfortunately the pictures do not do the mosaics justice.

The northern gate was called the Tangier gate because it headed north toward Tangier. Then a major carriage-way passed through the center of town.

Along the road ran 2 parallel aqueducts. One then turned and headed west into the homes of the wealthy, the other headed west into the city.

The wealthy houses each had their own bakery,

hamam for bathing, (notice in the one below the stairs, heating occurred below and the warm bath was in the room above)

mill for wheat, mill for olives,

and solarium with water, which came in through a duct. The grooves are for sitting and enjoying the cool water in the hot sun.

One house even had an aquarium. It contained fish to look at but also fish to nibble the caluses off feet for a “pedicure.”

They had running water and sewage lines in the city, fascinating. There was a public toilet room next to the public fountain and wash basin. Note the grooves in which the clothes were washed.

Most of the houses were 2 stories. The entrance door lifted in a groove up into the second level.

Here are some more mosaics, a small sampling of the many at the site. The one below represents the 4 seasons.

Here is a picture of Medusa with the snakes as hair.

And Hercules performing his labors.

The swastika had been a symbol of prosperity and good fortune.

Berber symbol for donkey.

And the Berber cross.

The name of the town, Volubilis, is Roman for morning glory, which is depicted below.

At the end of the road is the Triumphal Arch.

Beyond is the basilica: the court.

in front of which is the forum, which would have had a colonnade with shops and a market.

Next to the Basilica was the temple built in 218 and dedicated to the trinity: Juno, Jupiter, and Minerva.

In front of the temple is the altar for sacrificing animals.

As we left the site, we had a last look back at the view of the temple and basilica.

I do love an ancient ruin!

We headed from Volubilis to the nearby town of Moulay Idriss, site of the tomb of Idris I, the first major Islamic ruler of Morocco, after whom the town is named. He died in 791. Kamal told us that if a Muslim is unable to make a pilgrimage to Mecca in his life, visiting this city 7 times will serve the purpose. We parked and headed up the medina for lunch. We passed this donkey home from a day’s work. The medina streets are often too narrow for even carts, so donkeys are used to deliver goods to the shops.

We passed the shops on the main square.

We climbed the many, many steps to the Scorpion Restaurant with its gorgeous views. Notice the humble entrance.

And here are the views of the city.

From here we can appreciate the fertile land that enticed the Romans.

We were presented with our menu including several things that were new to us.

This was lunch for just the 2 of us, not including the kebabs that came later.

We managed to pack away most of it; it was soooo delicious. Then came dessert. And of course tea.

We rolled out of there back to the car for the final drive to Fez. Once there we were met by a porter from the riad who had a cart for our luggage. We wound our way through the medina to Riad Laaroussa.

Again, the entrance is an inconspicuous hallway.

Which opened into this awesome courtyard so huge it has orange trees.

We were offered tea and more almond cookies, but honestly could not eat a bite. But the tea is settling to the stomach.

We were led up to our room called the terrace room. It is the largest room I have ever slept in with a floating bed smack in the middle and a desk behind.

We had 2 terraces.

We were given a tour of the riad which has a spa, swimming pool, and offers massages. The restaurant and breakfast terrace are on the roof.

And we were here for 3 nights! We may never want to leave. We had dinner on the terrace, but could barely eat. Then hit the hay for our big day and early start.

We were met in the morning by Naim. It was so early few of the shops in the medina were open yet. But he explained how UNESCO is renovating the medina to emulate the original design with uniform wood doors on all the shops.

He walked us out of the medina through the blue gate. The entrance door with its mosaic tiles is the most emblematic portal of the old medina of Fez, the largest medieval city and car-free urban area in the world. The side facing the medina, is green, the color of Islam.

 The blue on the side that welcomes new visitors represents the color of the city of Fez, famous for its pottery, painted with elegant cobalt blue patterns. The bab (portal) was built in 1913.

We then hopped in the car and Kamal drove us to see the Jewish Quarter in the “new city” of Fez: Fez el-Jdid, built mostly in the 14th and 15th centuries after the Jews were expelled from Spain. On the way, Naim filled us in on Fez history.

Fez was founded in the 9th century by Idris II, son of Idris I buried in Moulay Idriss mentioned above. He is buried in a mausoleum in the center of the medina he built, which is the old medina. Fez reached its peak in the 13th–14th centuries under the Marinids, when it replaced Marrakesh as the capital of the kingdom. The urban fabric and the principal monuments in the medina – madrasas, fondouks, palaces, residences, mosques and fountains – date from this period. Although the political capital of Morocco was transferred to Rabat in 1912, Fez has retained its status as the country’s cultural and spiritual centre. Today it is the second largest city in Morocco by population.

Immediately one can see the difference from the Muslim areas in the old medina. The Jewish Quarter has wider streets and the homes have balconies,

Many Jews adopted the French iron balconies.

We visited the synagogue.

With its wooden bima.

And the uninviting looking mikvah.

We then stopped in front of the Royal Palace. The original foundation dates to the 13th century. Despite the Muslim preference for humble entrances to their homes, in 1962 having been returned to his throne, King Mohamed V ordered this elaborate gate built for his home to showcase to the world the craftsmanship of Fez and Morocco to promote trade and tourism.

The typical Moroccan artisanal arts on display include metal works:

With an example of the fine metalwork

And of course mosaic tiles.

and the overhang carved woods.

One side with white panel has a Quran quote that is a poem about serving the one God and living in peace and harmony with one another. When France fell to Germany in WWII, Germans controlled French occupied Morocco. Hitler demanded that Morocco hand over the Jews. The king refused and provided refuge for Moroccan Jews inside this immense palace (one of about 2 dozen in the country).

On the opposite side the same white panel is blank so the gate is not completely symmetrical because only God is perfect; nothing man-made can be perfect.

After admiring the gate, we hopped back in the car and headed for a viewpoint. On the way we passed a previous fondouk. A fondouk was a place where merchants and their wares could pull in, trade with the locals, have a place for them and their horse to stay, and take the local handicrafts with them to sell elsewhere. The one we passed was bought by an American woman (thus the name: American Fondouk), and is now a veterinary hospital that does open to the public, but was closed today.

Then we made it to a spot above the town where we could have a view over both Old and New Fez as well as modern Fez. Old Fez is in the foreground, new Fez to the middle left, and 1980s and beyond across the back.

Fez’s renown as a spiritual center is due to its large number of resident artisans, most of which practice their art in the same way that has been passed down through generations. In that vein, we headed to a family run ceramics shop.

Outside of each of the major gates -3 in total- lies a cemetery.

One of the family members came out to meet us and explain the process. First he showed us the excavated clay which is dissolved in water to make the clay. They use white rather than red clay because it can be fired at a higher temperature, making it more stable and durable than red.

The lump of clay is then spun into shape. He is using his feet to spin the wheel.

Then the pieces are placed in the courtyard to dry in the sun.

The items then go through their first bake, at which point they are called biscuit baked.

The next step is painting, which is all done by hand.

The pieces are then sprayed with a finish to give them the gloss and put in the oven for the second bake. Then he showed us the area where the tiles are broken into shapes if they are to be used for mosaics.

The pieces are then given to the master builder who builds the mosaic with the pieces turned upside down. He has to keep the colors and design plan all in his head.

Here is a finished product.

If building a fountain, fireplace, or any 3-D mosaic, the pieces are placed into a mold. The process gives me such a new appreciation for works we have seen like the palace gate and the Mohamed V Mausoleum.

Then he showed us the gallery/showroom shop, gorgeous stuff.

We then headed back to the old medina. Just inside all of the major gates is the food markets to make it easiest for farmers bringing their produce and people coming to shop. The alleyways are so narrow that often only a donkey can transport the goods.

The next section are baked goods and prepared foods like olives, preserved lemons, smen (preserved butter, often flavored) or street foods for fast snacks. One new food we were introduced to is kligh, which is meat that is preserved, somewhat like jerky, then stored in fat. It is mostly commonly fried for breakfast, often with eggs.

Moroccans have all kinds of breads, especially for breakfast. One with semolina is called harcha. This woman is making crepes.

The artisanal products tend to be made and sold on specific streets. This street is for dying wool and fabrics. The wool dyers do not like to be photographed working; they are in the shed seen below.

They then hang the dyed wool to dry.

The Arabs tend to have subdued colors, the Berbers prefer bright colors.

And silk.

Dye vats are also used for fabrics,

We then passed through the metal works area. Many of the items for sale are machine-made. Naim taught us how to tell the difference by touch and resonance.

Techniques include both chiseling and creating lace patterns.

This is an area devoted to artisans working in only the centuries old methods of hand banging and cutting without refined tools. These products are often used in restaurants.

Naim pointed out the raw materials store.

Naim then took us to a side street for a special treat to see his friend who is one of the last hand filigree weavers left in the world.

The design is unbelievably intricate.

It requires so many different threads and lifts.

It also requires an assistant who has been given a pattern of which strings to pull together after every pass of the threads. He is pulling down numbers of strings at a time from over his head, while chatting with his friend, without even looking at them. Fascinating process to observe.

Displayed in his tiny shop are some other materials he has weaved.

We then visited a tannery where hides are processed in the same way that they were in the 13th century.

First the hides are placed in vats of water mixed with lye and pigeon droppings – ammonia- and left to soak for about 2 weeks. This softens the hides and opens their pores to allow the dye to soak in,

The hides are then hung in the sun to dry. Any remaining fat or hair is then further scraped off.

The hide is then placed in the chosen color and left for a length of time depending on the deepness of the color desired. The variety of color choices is wide.

The finished products are assembled in the rooms all around the square. The shop is chock full of finished products from shoes and hand bags to jackets in every color.

Naim then led us through a maze of streets for lunch here in this gorgeous gem.

Its showpiece chandelier is a fine example of hand craftsmanship.

After lunch we visited Madrasa Bou Inania built in 1350. It is the only madrassa (Quran school) that also had a functioning mosque.

The architecture is typically Moroccan of the time: marble floor, mosaic tiles at the bottom of the walls above which are the carved plaster walls. The ceiling is open, but the carved wood top overhangs the vulnerable plaster to protect it from getting wet from rain. The plaster has verses from the Quran. Calligraphy on tile and carved into the plaster was also popular at the time.

The end room was used for prayer when not a classroom. On one end is a mihrab.

The upper floors held the dormitories for the students.

We passed by the main mosque in the center of the medina in which Idris II is buried. Being non Muslim, we are not allowed to enter.

While the mosque was being built, his tomb remained under a tent, which was ceremoniously changed yearly. Now inside the mosque the tomb is canopied with drapes which are still ceremoniously changed yearly. The main entranceway has all the the elements of artisanship seen elsewhere.

There are 14 entrances around the mosque but the remaining are all much more modest.

Fondiq is the plural of fondouk, the shopping centers for traveling merchants. Unlike riads with their L-shaped entrance to hide the center from the street, fondiq have a large entranceway right into a large courtyard to allow passage of the horse and carriage. UNESCO is in the process of restoring several fondiqs within the old medina.

Naim had a friend in this fondiq, an expert in metal crafts. He let me have a bang at a piece he was working on.

He showed us a piece he was just starting. He first draws in an outline for himself. But the rest of the pattern is done freehand.

His finished works are magnificent.

Back outside the fondiq Naim pointed out the most important fountain in the old medina because it is the only one with all 3 layers of the local artisan works.

We then visited a fondouk turned into a woodwork museum.

Each room had a display of a different wood product from chests and shelves and furniture to tools

and instruments

And that concluded a very long day of touring. In the morning we headed over to Cafe Clock for our cooking class. Once gathered we decided, as a group, what we would be cooking, choosing from a menu with recipes for all the dishes. We then headed to the market to purchase the ingredients. The chicken was bought fresh.

We came back later for the cleaned parts. Meanwhile we headed for the veggies and herbs and phyllo dough for dessert of snake cookies.

While peeling, chopping, mixing, cooking, and taking mint lemonade breaks on the terrace, we shared stories.

Then we all shared the delicious lunch we had made.

The next morning we headed for the Middle Atlas Mountains and the town of Ifrane. The Atlas Cedar Biosphere Reserve is home to 75% of the world’s majestic Atlas cedar tree population. This region is characterized by a wealth of ecosystems and the mountain peaks, which reach up to 3,700 m, provide the region with critically important water resources.

On the way we stopped at Domaine de La Pommeraie, an organic goat and sheep farm. Our host Tamik was a retired mathematics professor married to an engineering instructor. He is a Jewish Berber originally from Tangier. Having raised 2 children and taught dozens of others, they decided to retire from teaching and run the farm full time. They run workshops for tourists and also have classes for children as well.

His kitchen garden includes roses and lavender for scented waters.

and is chock full of herbs – rosemary, sage, and thyme – and fruit – figs, apricots, peaches, apples, and all kinds of citrus – and nut – almond and walnut – trees.

He gave us a workshop on distilling lavender for a water infusion.

We were then treated to a cheese tasting of all home made artisanally crafted cheeses of local varieties and those of recipes and methods passed down many generations by his Jewish Berber family. The cheeses were accompanied by home made bread and apricot jam, fresh pressed olive oil, and multiflower honey collected on the farm, and of course Moroccan mint tea.

We then enjoyed a lunch of barbecue skewers and eggplant salad and a veggie dish, all delicious. He and Kamal joined us and we shared stories and talked about the similarities and differences in our countries. Have I mentioned that there are no guns in Morocco? It is one of the first things we were told in Tangier by several people all trying to impress upon us the safety of visiting the country. Only police and military are allowed guns. I asked Tamik if there is hunting for sport allowed in Morocco and/or if, as a farmer, he is allowed to have a gun to protect his plants and animals from predators. His response was that there is no game in Morocco to hunt, only rabbits. And yes, as a farmer he would be allowed to get a gun permit to protect his property, but he does not feel the need. He said that wild dogs help keep the rabbit population at a tolerable level.

We then drove to Ifrane, known as the Alps of Morocco. Ifrane means caves. The original ancient dwellers dug caves into the limestone for shelter. The modern town of Ifrane was established by the French administration in 1928 due to its Alpine climate so that Europeans could find relief from the summer heat of the interior plains of Morocco. Ifrane is also a popular altitude training destination. In 1995 an English-language, American-curriculum public university opened and this has helped launch Ifrane as a desirable destination for domestic tourism. The king has a palace in Ifrane which he uses when he wants to ski. According to the MBC Times, Ifrane is ranked the second-cleanest town in the world, behind Calgary. According to a survey, Ifrane makes a number of efforts to offer its residents an exemplary quality of life through rigorous waste management, but also by reducing air pollution.

We walked around the main square with its Hotel Chamonix.

We enjoyed a touch of fall foliage, something we really did not expect to find in Africa.

We took a picture in front of the famous lion statue carved by a German soldier during WWII, when Ifrane was used briefly as a prisoner-of-war camp, in exchange for the prisoner’s freedom – or so the story goes – and commemorates the last wild Atlas lion, which was shot near here in the early 1920s.

We checked into our 5 star Hotel Michlifen.

And were told we had been upgraded to a suite.

And we thought the last one was huge!

And these pics do not include the dressing room with built in closets or the second bathroom. We have a view of the huge heated pool from our terrace.

We sat on the terrace, sipped wine and watched the sun set over the mountains. A perfect end to the perfect day.

We arrived in Tangier on a beautiful sunny day and were immediately impressed with what appeared to be a large, bustling modern city. The passport office was on the ship. All we had to do on exiting the ship was show our stamped passport, go through security, and easy as that, we were in the country.

We were met by a driver sent by our riad. A riad is a traditional Moroccan home built around a central courtyard usually with a water element. Many riads in the old cities (medinas) have been converted into small boutique hotels, or guest houses, with typically 6-8 rooms. Our riad was located in the kasbah, which was the original fortress located in the center of the medina. We passed the entrance to the medina.

We were dropped at the entrance to the kasbah, as no cars are allowed in. A young porter came to meet us and transport our luggage. And we entered our riad.

We were greeted by Aziz the owner who gave us a tour of the riad which has been in his family for many generations. We were booked in the Henri Matisse room. Matisse spent a lot of time in Tangier and painted several of his famous works here.

The doors are carved by hand as is all of the original woodwork in the riad. The windows have carved woodwork with laced patterns to allow for air but also privacy. Aziz took us to the rooftop to show off the views.

He told us to make ourselves at home, which we did. Dinner that night was served in the salon of the riad. We were introduced to harira soup, which is a very tasty vegetable based soup eaten any time of day including breakfast throughout Morocco. We are both fans.

Breakfast was served up on the roof and consisted of fresh oranges, pomegranates, and Moroccan mint green tea with jasmine flower, my new favorite hot beverage,

Breakfast featured msemmen, a several times folded pan fried flat bread. It is served with butter, jam and/or honey. Also on offer were beghrir, basically a pancake cooked on one side with its many holes giving an airy, crumpet-like consistency, also served with butter and jam. As I write this I realize despite breakfast there 5 mornings, I have not a single picture of the spread, so sorry. But I do have a picture of the adorable tea service used.

After breakfast we met Latif for a walking tour. He told us that in order to understand the culture of Tangier, it is important first to have some history of Morocco in general and Tangier in specific. Many civilisations and cultures have influenced Tangier, starting from before the 10th century BC with the Phoenicians.  Over the next centuries it was home to Carthaginians, Romans, and Berbers. (Berbers are actually tribes of many peoples. The Romans called “Berbers” anyone who did not speak Latin.) Byzantine control probably yielded to pressure from Visigoth Spain around 618. In the 8th century the Muslims moved in and converted many of the Berbers. As the Spanish started to conquer and expel the Jews and Moors from Andalusia in the 13th through the 15th century, many of them moved into northern Africa and converted many of the Berbers to both religions. It remained under Muslim control for most of the next several hundred years until the Portuguese started to move ever southward into Africa in the 15th century. In the 17th century it passed into Spanish control along with the rest of Portugal’s domains. Iberian rule lasted until 1661 when it was given to England as part of a princess’s dowry. But the English rule only lasted about 40 years when the kingdom was taken back by the Muslims. In the late 19th century France bombarded Tangier. In the early 20th century Spain controlled most of southern Morocco and the very north while France controlled most of the middle. While under colonial rule, the King of Morocco was considered a sultan. In 1920s, Tangier, an international zone managed by colonial powers, became a destination for many European and American diplomats, spies, bohemians, writers and businessmen. That status came to an end with Moroccan independence, in phases between 1956 and 1960. In 2011 with the Arab Spring raging throughout Africa, the King Of Morocco, supposedly a direct descendant of the prophet Muhammed, allowed his country to write a new constitution electing a Prime Minister and cabinets. In 2011 the Berber language was for the first time recognized as the second official language of Morocco, Arabic the first, and French the third. Arabic and French are taught in every school in Morocco today. Most of the Moroccans that we have met in service industries also speak English, Spanish, Italian, and some of them German, impressive. Then we were off for the tour.

Being already at the top in the kasbah, we started there. The streets of the Kasbah are the typical narrow winding ones.

Latif pointed out a flower pot that has the design of the Moroccan flag and explained that the red color is for the blood of the martyrs, green is the color of Islam, and the 5 pointed star on the Moroccan flag symbolizes the 5 pillars of Islam: Shahada, a belief in the one God, Allah; Salah, daily prayers; Zakat, alms to the poor (Muslims are expected to give 2.5-10% of their income to charity NOT including the mosque); Sawm, fasting at Ramadan; and Hajj, making a pilgrimage to Mecca at least once in a lifetime, health and wealth allowing.

The kasbah (citadel) of Tangier was built right after the city was evacuated by the English in 1684 and reclaimed by Morocco. The sultan of Morocco supported the city’s resettlement and commissioned its reconstruction, overseen by its new governor. It is therefore surrounded by a wall with gates.

This one opens out to a view of the port of Tangier.

Zooming in, the new mosque at the port can be seen.

The main square of the kasbah is flanked on one side by what used to be a prison, but is now a museum of modern Moroccan art.

We went in for a look at the art.

Further down the square is a part of the original sultan’s palace which is now a cultural center.

Inside is the entire history of Morocco. One of the first displays shows the original door to the building.

The rooms are organized by period from the paleolithic, neolithic, through Roman times all the way to the present. One of our favorite ancient tidbits was this die from the Roman times.

And a more modern favorite was this ammaria which is used to carry the bride from her home to that of the groom.

Each room of the museum has an incredibly detailed hand carved wood ceiling.

And of course having been a palace, the building has a central courtyard with an extensive garden.

Around the corner from the palace is the mosque. A green door is typical on a mosque entrance.

And the minaret.

At the end of the square is the gate that exits the kasbah into the medina.

And the gate into the medina, the old city. The area between the two gates is where punishment of men who were found guilty of a crime took place, ie whipping.

At the top of the medina are several famous cafes. Morocco boasts many famous inhabitants in its day. These cafes were frequented by writers, artists, musicians, and many more through the years.

A souk is a market. Where in the past they were areas of the medina, today most of the medina is a giant souk.

The souks are mostly organized by product. Our favorite was that of the tailors where many make there own textiles. In this shop a man is using his feet to power the loom to weave the fabrics: wool, silk, and combinations of the 2.

Today was market day which means those living in the mountains, mostly Berbers, come into town and sell fruits and vegetables as well as hand crafted items. They also do their own shopping. I was warned that they do not like to be photographed, so was respectful. But they can be distinguished by their hats, which they weave from straw to protect their heads and necks from sun but allow air for cooling. They are decorated with wool balls, the colors denoting their tribes. The ones from the North tend to use charcoal colored balls, those from the South and East prefer colored ones.

The women wear aprons that are hand woven and typically red and white striped. The way she ties it, to the side or in front, denotes if she is married or still eligible. The ones worn by the tribal women are simple red and white striped.

But those sold for the tourists, which can also be tablecloths, couch covers, whatever, are more colorful.

We also went into the food and spice markets.

The fish market was the largest we have seen anywhere.

Even sharks!

We walked by the Jewish cemetery.

It has a truly great view.

The first Jews migrated to Tangier after the destruction of the First Temple in Jerusalem in the 6th century BC and settled among the Berbers. Jews of Tangier were later met by a second wave of migration from the Jews living in the Iberian Peninsula during the 1492 Alhambra Decree and the Inquisitions. At one point the Jews made up as much as 25% of the population. For the most part Jews and Muslims lived peaceably together. But in 1956 most Jews joined the Zionist movement to Israel.

We then visited the original US Legation.

Which is now a museum.

Morocco was the first country in the world to officially recognize the US independence, which it did in 1777. It was, therefore, the home of the first legation of the US in a foreign country, (a legation is a lower rank than an embassy because it is headed by a minister not an ambassador) established in 1821. Morocco has had great relationship with the US throughout our history and has been visited by most presidents.

At the time that World War II broke out, Morocco was controlled by France. When France fell to Germany, Morocco was then occupied by Germans. The allies helped plan and operate Operation Torch. On November 8, 1942, American and British forces invaded beaches and ports across French North Africa. It opened a long-awaited second front against the Axis. Operation Torch constituted the biggest and most complex amphibious landing to that point in world history. Part of that planning happened right here in this telegraph office hidden in the top of the US Legation.

The embassy was also used for living and entertaining.

We then went into the Jewish quarter to visit the synagogue. Latif explained that a Jewish Quarter in Morocco is not like a ghetto but an area for Jews to be together, making it easier for them to practice their religion and maintain dietary specialties.

He took us to a Jewish shop that carries everything from mezuzahs and menorahs to lamps and tea services.

We had lunch of chicken tagine and lamb kabobs in a small family run restaurant in the medina.

Then we visited more shops like this one with the most exquisite hand made carpets. It can take three people working together a year to make one carpet.

In the evening we walked around outside the medina on our own and visited the main square called the Grand Socco. It was packed with people and street performers.

In the morning we met Kamal who was to be our driver for the next 34 days, which will be a personal record for him. His previous longest clients were with him for 21 days. Kamal is a Muslim Berber from a village in the south that is made up of all Berbers. He says his ancestry is 3-4,000 years old.

Our first stop was a lookout over the former mansion of Greek-American tycoon Perdicaris who built a 70 hectares park of trees imported from around the world. It is now a public park.

We then stopped in Donabo Gardens. Despite it not being the right time of year for gardens, they were lovely.

We then went on to Hercules’ Cave, so named because legend has it that he carved it out and lived there while he was planning to separate the two continents, one of his 12 labors for immortality.

The mouth of the cave is said to look like the shape of Africa.

Then we drove to Cape Spartel, a promontory in Morocco about 1,000 feet above sea level at the entrance to the Strait of Gibraltar. It is the northwesternmost point of the African continent.

We had a relaxing late couscous tagine lunch, the Friday special in Morocco, on the terrace before heading back to Tangier.

The next morning we headed down the Atlantic coast to the archaeological site of Lixus near the town of Larache. Lixus was originally founded by the Phoenicians in the 8-7th century BC. It has been continuously inhabited since. Amongst the ruins were artifacts from all of the different eras. Among those now displayed in the museum include many Roman coins.

Lixus was one of the largest Roman industrial sites. It was built by the Loukkos River. The main industries were salting and exporting tuna. Another was the making of a purple dye from a local flower.

We hiked up a steep hill to the Roman baths.

which still had some preserved mosaic floors.

And still further up the hill to the Basilica. Notice the three languages on the sign: Arabic, Berber, French.

And to the top of the hill to the homes of the very wealthiest Romans with their private baths and rooms and great views.

And then we wound our way around to the city complex that was Lixus, its temples and forums and apartments. Several camera shots could not get it all in; the ruins are massive.

Having satisfied my ancient craving for the day, we drove a bit back up the coast to Asilah, a town on Morocco’s Atlantic coast. Its medina, is enclosed by well-preserved 15th-century ramparts and gates, built by colonial Portuguese. The medina is an art hub, known for its murals and an annual festival in June. But first we went for lunch at Restaurante Dar Al Maghrebia.

There we discovered two new food treats: breguats, a phyllo dough-like deep fried pastry filled with choice of ___, we had fish; and pastellas, a slightly thicker dough also stuffed and deep fried, but topped with powdered sugar and cinnamon; we chose chicken. We also had our fav harira soup. We are LOVING Moroccan food!

With full bellies we entered through the medina gate into Asilah.

The town is repainted in its iconic blue and white colors every two years.

Once repainted, then murals are added by local artists. They can be found scattered throughout the medina.

We walked along the Atlantic side with the beach beyond the wall.

As in Tangier, the windows often have carved lattice for privacy but breeze; the difference being that here they are painted blue.

Many of the doors are gorgeous.

In Asilah everything becomes art.

And there is every kind of art.

And there are art galleries on every corner, literally.

In this instance, the whole house is a work of art.

That night we had a delicious French-Moroccan fusion dinner at the M Restaurant in the kasbah. The following day we spent mostly with Lucas and Amina Peters, the founders/managers of Journey Beyond Travel, who arranged our entire trip. They had invited us into their home and garden for lunch, tea, and visit with them and their children. We ate bocadillos, which are spanish-inspired sandwiches on long baguette-like bread filled with just about anything and everything, including the french fries. In the late afternoon we shopped a bit in the medina and said a sad farewell to Tangier.

Kamal picked us up in the morning after breakfast, and we headed to Chefchaouen. Along the way we stopped for tea at a scenic roadside cafe. We entered into the Rif Mountain Range, one of 4 in Morocco (the others are: the Atlas Mountains, the High Atlas Mountains, and the Anti-Atlas Mountains).

We arrived at our hotel Dar Jasmine in the afternoon and climbed the 160 stairs to the lobby! The porters had come down to meet us and, thankfully, carried our bags up the long flight of stairs for us.

The walls along the stairs are lined with murals.

As we climbed we got our first glimpse of the medina of Chefchaouen.

We had lunch on the terrace.

then settled into our room which was really a suite with a sitting area

off of which was a terrace with a gorgeous view of the medina.

Then it was time to hike into the medina. So down all the steps we went and up into the medina. As typical, it was full of shops for tourists.

From the top of the medina, we had a great view back at our hotel, impressed with ourselves at how far we had walked.

As in Asilah, we were impressed with the painted walls.

And the doors.

Headed back to our hotel we crossed over the Portuguese Bridge.

Then we trudged up the 50-60 steps up out of the bottom of the medina to street level, then the over 200 steps up to our room on the second floor (ground floor is zero, so up 2 more flights, no elevators) and enjoyed the sunset over the medina. We needed the rest.

until dinner in the hotel.

In the morning we enjoyed our included breakfast

which had starters very similar to breakfast in Tangier, but then eggs, avocado toast, and omelettes were added.

We then met our guide Fatima who was the first female guide in the area and is one of the few female guides in the country. She is currently studying for a masters degree in the history of the Jews in the area. She is a Berber and grew up in Chefchaouen. She first gave us a brief history of the town. It was originally just a lot of tribes living in the region. But with the expulsion from Andalusia, Muslims and Jews streamed into the area mostly in the 15th century. First the Kasbah was built as the protective fortress. It can be seen from our hotel sitting in the middle of the medina.

The kasbah during its history has been used as a residence for governors, as a military arsenal and as a prison. Then as the town grew outward, walls were built around for protection. Both the kasbah and the medina walls have been restored several times through the years.

Fatima says it is unclear why some of the houses were originally painted blue. One speculation is that it was started by the Jews. Another is that it was for spirituality reasons: feeling close to “heaven.” But with the advent of the internet, as the town started to get tourists to come see the “blue city”, more and more homes were painted blue until it was officially adopted by the town council and now that the city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is strictly regulated. Tourism is basically the only source of income for the city.

The original location of the city was based on its great access to water both by the river and natural springs from the mountains. She walked us to the top of the hill just outside the medina and showed us the springs source, which is covered by walls both for beauty and protection of the springs.

The water treatment facility with pipes leading from it to all of the sections of town is located right next to the springs.

It is a good thing the springs still run from the mountains, because with global warming and a recent drought, this is the current state of the river.

Just below the springs is where the local women come to do their laundry on washboards.

From up high we can look across to what is called the Spanish Mosque. Fatima explained that it has never been used for prayer. After expelling the Moors and Jews from Spain in the 15th century, the Spaniards then came down into Morocco and conquered it. They then built this mosque high up on the mountain as a means of spying on the muslims both because of it’s vantage point and because Muslims in those days used their local mosques not just for prayer, but also to discuss politics and news. But the Muslims were smart enough to realize that the Spaniards had refused to allow them to practice their religion in Spain, so why would they build them a mosque? And they refused to use it.

Just below the mosque on the hill is a large cemetery with Muslims in the front and Jews in the back.

Then we walked through the upper gate into the medina.

Fatima explained to us that there are several sections to the medina. Each section has all of the following 5 elements:

A mosque

Water for the people and their animals. There is always a faucet for easy access to water. The low wall is a trough for animals to drink from.

A bakery with an oven. The bakery makes and sells breads and sweets. But it also maintains a community oven. Families make their own dough at home and then for a few durham can bring their dough to get baked.

A Hamam, which is a public bathing facility. Some communities separate men and women by areas, others by times. Most of them no longer function. The one below is in the process of renovation.

And a Qaran school. The one below was a regular public school when Fatima was a child, now it is a public space for offices

and a library.

In the school is an ammaria for carrying the bride to her new home.

Fatima shared that after the bride crawls in (the dome is hollow for her head to fit), she is handed a loaf or bread by her mother so that she will prosper and never go hungry in her new home.

After the door is shut, the family throws water to symbolize “do not return,” which means they hope she is happy in her new home with no reason to miss her old home.

Traditional homes in medinas have an elevation to step over as entering the home and a very low door so one must stoop or bow upon entering. This is to give one pause and to be humbled.

People still live in the medina, but mostly there are shops with arts and hand crafted items for sale.

She showed us a shop where the paint pigments are sold.

She also took us to a coop that sells argan products. Coops are becoming very popular in Morocco and are supported by the government.

Argan nuts are ubiquitous in Morocco in foods, hair and skin products, even for medicinal use. The women in the coop showed us the process the nuts go through for either roasting for food products or grinding for oil extraction.

Fatima explained the traditional clothing. The djellaba is a long and loose type of robe with a hood and is often worn over the top of other clothes. Woolen djellabas are the most traditional, but cotton djellabas are becoming increasingly popular too. Naturally, woolen garments are favoured in the cooler winter months, while lightweight cotton djellabas are preferable on hot, sunny days.

The gandora is similar to a djellaba, with the major differences being that it has shorter sleeves and does not have a hood.  It can be worn by either sex, but is more common to women.

The kaftan is another long and flowing robe-like dress worn a lot in Morocco. Unlike the djellaba, though, the kaftan is only worn by women, usually for dressing up for special occasions.

The store below is a bridal shop. It not only sells bridal kaftans, but also the shoes, nightwear, slippers, and linens that would go with the bride to her new home.

Inside the home, slippers are worn. The ones seen in the shop below are similar to what Eric and I donned in the home of Lucas and Amina Peters in Tangier.

We passed the kasbah but did not go in.

Then we entered the Jewish Quarter. Similar to what Latif had said in Tangier, Fatima said the Jews had their own quarter for their safety and comfort. It was by no means a ghetto.

At the bottom of the Jewish Quarter is the lower entry into the medina. The gate here was called the trading gate because that was where outsiders would come to make trades with the medina merchants.

Once again we crossed the Portuguese Bridge. This time we were told that it was so named because after an attempted Portuguese invasion, Portuguese soldiers were captured and turned into slaves who then were forced to build the bridge.

And again we made the very long trek up to our hotel suite for an afternoon rest. Eric took a panoramic shot of the town from our terrace. We honestly could not stop enjoying the view of the Blue City.

And we used the drone to take a selfie. It would be our last use of the drone. We were told that if caught with a drone in Morocco, it would be confiscated. Although interestingly, there are no laws on the books against drones, nor is there anywhere that says it other than in drone user chat rooms.

After a rest, we again trudged down into the medina for dinner at Bab Ssour.

We climbed three flights of decorated stairs.

And had dinner on the top terrace. We had a delicious traditional Moroccan dinner of tagines, pastellas, and chicken briouats all for under $20 including a generous tip.

Then another hike back to our suite. We laughed that at least we were walking off all the calories just consumed. On the way, I had to take a picture of this love seat for our love of Chefchaouen.

And this concluded our visit in Northern Morocco.

We headed back into Spain. It was our longest driving day yet: over 4.5 hours. We passed through Seville and on to Ronda. The reasoning behind this is we were planning this part of the trip around getting back to Seville in time for a poker tournament there. We arrived in Ronda in the late afternoon and immediately decided that this was another “stand out” spot on our trip so far. First our hotel: The Catalonia

As the bell hop showed us to our room he confided “You have the best room in the hotel.” And we did! We had a corner suite with views of the bullring out one side.

And views of the city below out the middle and other side.

Driving here we honestly could not remember why we had chosen Ronda as a stop; it had been so long since we made our bookings. So we set out to explore the town. We discovered the usual cute squares, pedestrian only shopping streets, and churches.

But then we ventured a different direction, and POW, we found the gorge.

This is why tourists flock to Ronda. At this point it was late in the day and getting drizzly, so we put off exploring the gorge further until the next day, and went back into our hotel to enjoy our welcome drink of cava on the roof terrace bar.

We freshened up and had a delicious meal of Andalusian specialties in our hotel restaurant. Dinner included sea bream, a fish neither of us had tasted before, but is now a favorite.

The next morning we had the absolute best breakfast buffet we have ever had included in the price of the hotel room. Not only did it have every food and pastry (yes, croissants and pan chocolate) and a machine that made all kinds of lattes and cappuccinos, it also included fresh squeezed orange juice and fixings for mimosas and Bloody Marys.

By the way, these orange juicers are found in almost every grocery store in Spain, even little mini markets, for help yourself bottles.

With very full bellies, we set out to visit the gorge. Pictures just cannot capture the beauty of the surroundings, but we tried.

There are 3 bridge crossings over the gorge: the original Moor Bridge, the Old Bridge, and the New Bridge. The new bridge was first built in 1735 but the bridge collapsed several years later and sadly killed 50 people. The Puente Nuevo was started in 1759 and was completed in 1793, with a height of 98 metres. We hiked down to the 2 older bridges on one side of the gorge, then back up the other side.

On the way down we stopped to explore the Casa del Moro Rey, (House of the Moorish King). It is a monumental complex with a long history that begins in the 14th century and extends to the  20th century. It is made up of three parts: a water mine from the Muslim era, a neo-Mudejar style house and a garden designed by Jean Claude Nicolas Forestier in the 1920s. The house was under renovation. The mine was a water wheel driven by Christian slaves to bring water up from the river into the Moorish city in the 14th century. But it was 20 stories down into a dark hole, so we chose to skip it. The garden was lovely.

At the bottom of the gorge are the other 2 bridge crossings.

After hiking back up, we rested a bit. Eric took some drone shots of the bullring, our hotel, and the gorge.

Then we headed back out to explore the Old Town. First we stopped at the Saint Mary Major Church built in the 16th century, renovated in the 18th, like so many churches in this part of Spain, on the site of a mosque, which had been built on the site of Roman ruins.

The we strolled out to the Almocábar gate, which was built in the 13th century and guarded the entrance to the city in the Moorish time. It is the site where the Castilian troops gathered on May, 1485 before invading and ending Moorish control of the city in 1492.

We then headed all the way down below the Moors Bridge to visit the Arab baths. During Moorish occupation, the baths were an important gathering point for ritual cleansing. It is situated right next to the river. When the Christians took over the city, they outlawed the use of baths deeming bathing part of the Muslim religious rituals. The baths were changed into laundry facilities, for which they were used through the 1930s.

Water was brought from the river using a water wheel very similar to that in the mine of the Casa del Mor Rey, but was above ground due to it’s proximity to the river, and was turned by a donkey, not Christian slaves.

The water then flowed into the baths through an aqueduct. The baths were heated by a fire in the room adjacent using a wood burning fire. The water flowed through this area, was warmed, then flowed through ducts below the warm room.

We now found ourselves even lower below town than we had been on our morning hike. Rather than climbing the steep incline along the gorge, we meandered the long way around through town. We then thoroughly enjoyed a well earned meal at Sensur Gastrobar.

The next morning it was time to leave Ronda, which again was a real highlight for us so far.

We arrived in Granada and checked into the Hotel Palacio de Santa Inés, made up of two Mudejar buildings with a Plateresque façade. It is located in the historic center of Granada, in the noble area of ​​the Nasrid neighborhood of Albayzín, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

And then we discovered our first really big fail of our trip: we had not booked tickets to go see Alhambra, which was a palace built by the Moors then turned into a fortress by the Christians. It never occurred to us that we would need advance tickets for a weekday late in October, but it was sold out for weeks. So we had to just enjoy the view of it from afar.

We had booked a late afternoon walking tour of Albaicin and Sacromonte neighborhoods. We met first in Albaicin at the Plaza Nueva (New Plaza), built by the Christians in the early 16th century.

Our tour guide Nacho explained that Granada was the last city in Spain to conquer the Moors, which happened in 1492. Because the Moors had been pushed down from the north in the early part of the 13th century, they had congregated in Granada which is why the Alhambra was built, to be a safe city in which the Moors could live. When the final conquest of the Moors happened in the late 15th century, it was very fast, and they were forced to leave, quickly. So unlike the other regions of Spain, where some Moors were converted, here they evacuated. What that meant to the city was their homes and monuments were basically left intact and taken over by the Christians with little modification. The “new” plaza was the Christians’ beginning of expansion. There was much lawlessness in the Andalusian region, so a large justice building was built by orders of Carlos I between 1531 and 1587. It was the first building of its kind to be built in Spain to hold a court of law. Despite this attempt, the next couple of hundred years were lawless ones.

We walked across the Darro River to look back at the Albaicin neighborhood. Nacho explained how for centuries Granada was a relatively poor city. The Christians who had taken over wanted to maintain the appearance of luxury, which is evident in the fake façade seen on the house below with its neoclassical decor painted on rather than sculpted.

The Christians also took over the private homes of the Moors, most of of which had very plain, humble exteriors but opened into lush interiors with interior gardens and always a water element in a central atrium, if wealthy. These latter ones are now called Carmens, with a Christian name attached, which can be seen throughout the city and sell for millions of euros today.

Granada always had a large gypsy population. Once the Nasrid period was over, the Christians encouraged the gypsys to stay because of their particular skills with breeding animals and veterinary care. But the city was walled and the gypsies were forced to live outside the walls. The gypsies dug caves into the hills and lived outside the city walls, now called the Sacromonte neighborhood.

The caves were covered in lime for protection, then cacti planted on top to draw moisture and stabilize the soil. The cacti have since been decimated by a blight.

In the 1960s there was a flood causing some of the caves to collapse. Then dictator Franco, who felt the impoverished neighborhood an emabarrasment, ordered all of the gypsies to evacuate. He put them in shelters with little better facilities. Many continue to live in poverty. The caves were taken over as communes in the 70s. But then as most gentrification occurs, people started moving back in, building second stories for views of Alhambra, and some caves now sell for huge sums.

In the late 18th century a painter made an image of a local gypsy, Chorrojumo. His image became wildly popular throughout Europe. Tourists began to come to the area. The gypsies would play guitar and dance to entertain the tourists. This is when/where this type of Flamenco was born. Today, there are numerous Flamenco venues hosted in the caves of Sacromonte. (Different types of Flamenco arose pretty much simultaneously throughout Andalusia from different gypsy tribes.)

The neighborhood of Sacromonte had always been, not only outside the walls of the city, but off the grid of water and also ultimately the electric grid. They had cisterns from which to get buckets of water. They were in use only until the last 50 years or so.

As we re-entered the Albaicin neighborhood in the upper section we immediately saw again the Moorish influence of the architecture. When the Christians rebuilt this part of the city in the 16th century, it contained a large market and butcher shops and other public buildings independent of the ones in the part of town down below. Today it is mostly bars and restaurants.

At the end of the plaza is a Moorish port leading into the next square. It was originally part of a wall surrounding the Cadima Alcazaba, an 11th century Muslim fortress. The Christians renamed it the Door of Weights because when a butcher was caught using defective weights to cheat his customers, his weights were hung there to humiliate him.

Passing through the Door of Weights, we entered into St. Michael’s Square.

Nacho told us that when he was a child the area around this square was a parking lot. The square was made famous by the Clintons. Bill brought Hillary there during a visit to Spain during the Lewinsky scandal only months before his impeachment. He claimed he wanted her to see the most beautiful sunset in the world. Since then tourists have flocked there to enjoy the same view. The view is of the setting sun casting light on the Alhambra.

That night we had a delicious dinner at Pilar del Toro.

The next morning we set out to visit the Cathedral of Granada. At this point we had visited so many cathedrals in Spain, we entered a bit unenthusiastic, but were pleasantly surprised. It turned out to be one of our favorites due to its brightness, the clean simple lines, light airy feeling, and beautiful artwork. Construction was begun in the 16th century, late for a Spanish cathedral. It was originally started in the Gothic style, but was finished in the Renaissance style. It was built on top of a Muslim Medina.

Unlike most cathedrals in Spain, the choir sits in the main chapel. At the back of the chapel sits a large stand to hold the large choir books. It is shaped so that the books can be placed on all sides to be seen from every angle by the choir.

Each side chapel is more spectacular than the next. Several have gorgeous marbles. Very few have been redone in the Baroque style that was popular in Spain.

Even the doors in the cathedral are exquisite.

When we exited the church we meandered through the Arabic market: La Alcaicería, which has very narrow alleys and is packed with merchandise and reminded us of the markets in Jerusalem. When we emerged from the markets, we were amused to see this man powering a carousel with a cycle. The sign on the box in front of him reads: http://www.carruselecologico.com

We emerged from the market to find ourselves in a more modern section of town with high end shops. There we found a statue built in 1892 commemorating the 400th anniversary of Queen Isabella of Spain’s meeting with Columbus.

And also in the square are buildings with gorgeous architecture.

We could not go inside Alhambra, but we decided to hike up to it so we could try to get a drone shot above it. At the entrance to the Alhambra Forest and the long hike up the hill is this gate dedicated to Charles I in 1526. It is nicknamed the Pomegranate Gate due to the 3 large split pomegranates seen spilling their seeds sitting atop the gate. The pomegranate is the symbol of Granada.

On the way we passed this Arco de las Orejas (Gate of Ears), which was originally in Plaza de Bib-Rambla . In the 19th century it was taken down during a renovation project. But there was such an outcry from historical conservationists, that it was rebuilt on this walkway up to Alhambra. Its name is because when thieves or crooks were punished by the removal of body parts, often ears, they were hung on this gate to warn the public of the consequences of such actions.

Up on top Eric did manage some drone shots of Alhambra.

That night we had paella at Mesa Pio.

Then we returned to our room for a final view before bed.

And again we were on the move, this time to Úbeda. When booking we had tried to find charming hotels that gave us a feel for local culture. In Úbeda we certainly achieved this goal. Hotel Ordoñez Sandoval was built in a historic family house in a neoclassical style.

Driving into town we were struck by the number of olive groves and how well maintained they appeared. We learned that the province has 70 million olive trees. From town, you can see them best from Mirador del Salvador viewpoint.

We walked around town all afternoon and took a lot of pictures, but I will add them with the history we learned about the town and its historic monuments on our walking tour the next morning. The next day started with an included breakfast in the cutest room in our hotel.

We met Josue for the tour and were the only ones. He admitted that few English speakers make it to Úbeda, which has only recently become a tourist destination due to UNESCO designating the town a world cultural heritage site in 2003 due to the town’s highest number of monuments/m2 in all of Europe, second only to Florence, and to the well preserved renaissance buildings.

In the year 1233, the Muslims in Úbeda were definitively conquered by Ferdinand II of Castile, a full 2.5 centuries before Granada, making this the southernmost city in Spain for that period of time and therefore very influential to the region. After both the fall of Granada and the “discovery” of the Americas in 1492, wealth poured into the area. Especially notable for the architecture of the city of today is the role of Francisco de los Cobos, secretary of Emperor Charles V. Francisco de los Cobos was not born with a title but benefited from his uncle’s relationship working as secretary to Queen Isabel I. Francisco de los Cobos ultimately accumulated a lot of wealth, but did not manage to get a title until in his 40s when he married 14 year-old María de Mendoza. Having accumulated wealth and power, he strove to build a palace, a university, and a mausoleum for himself. In order to do this, he first needed permission from the Crown and the Pope. So first he built a hospital as his donation. The building is used today as a cultural center.

Next he started work on his palace and his mausoleum. He engaged the architect Andrés de Vandelvira, whose work became instrumental in introducing the Renaissance ideas to Spain.

Francisco de los Cobos did not survive to see his mausoleum finished, but his wife and architect completed it and later buried him there.

Francisco de los Cobos was very involved in the design of this chapel, now the largest mausoleum for a private patron in Europe. The name is of course reference to Jesus. As was popular in the Renaissance, he used neoclassical elements and mythological references. On the façade are depictions of stories of Hercules, son of god (Zeus), attaining immortality through his 12 labors.

We would go into the chapel after the tour, but first more on Andrés de Vandelvira. After the death of Francisco de los Cobos, the architect continued to work for his wife and several nephews building palaces. The palace of Francisco de los Cobos, behind the chapel, is currently under reconstruction.

The palace of the Marquis of Donadío, built for the first chaplain of the Sacred Chapel of the Savior of the World, is in the same square as the chapel, today called the Plaza Vázquez de Molina. The palace today is a Parador Hotel.

A signature element of Andrés de Vandelvira is the white marble column that can be seen on the corners of the Parador, above top right.

The inner courtyard of the palace/Parador is typical of the Spanish Renaissance style portraying wealth: columns surrounding an open space with a water element in the center, in this case a fountain.

And in the corners can be seen a second signature element of Andrés de Vandelvira: a “handkerchief” ceiling.

Also in the Plaza Vázquez de Molina is another building of one of Francisco de los Cobos nephews: Mancera Palace. But it was never lived in as a palace and became a monastery.

In front of the Mancera Palace are representations of the 12 men who defeated the 12 muslims in the fight for the kingdom in 1233, represented as lions.

Also in the same square is the Church of Santa María de los Reales Alcázares on a site formerly a mosque. Like I said above, a lot of monuments in one place.

Just off the square are two other important buildings: city hall and the police station. City Hall was built as a palace.

What is now the police station was built to be a home for women who never married but did not become nuns and whose families could not afford to keep them. They were housed and given honest work to keep them off the streets.

Walking around town, we entered the Jewish Quarter. Because the fall of the muslims in 1233 was relatively benign, a battle of 12 vs 12, the Jews, Muslims, and Christians coexisted in relative harmony until the Inquisition started. The pillars in the Jewish Quarter have representations of the 12 tribes and the Star of David.

We walked past the 16th century Church devoted to St. John of the Cross, a devotee of the Barefoot Carmelites. He died at the monastery here, but due to a postmortem fight with the monastery in Segovia, only parts of his body are buried here, and parts in Segovia.

We also walked into Plaza de 1 de Mayo. The market was located here in the Islamic era. Bullfights also took place in this square, like other public events. Executions, including those of the inquisition, were also carried out here.

At the end of the square is the Church of San Pablo, which is the oldest in Úbeda. It was originally built by the Visigoths. The back of the church has some of the original wall.

The front façade is Romanesque. Note the balconies on either side of the front. In the 15th century the church was used as the town hall, and announcements were made from the balconies.

On the corner of the Plaza de 1 de Mayo is this building built in the 16th century to be the new town hall. It is currently a music conservatory.

Another interesting note is the number of palaces in Úbeda. At the height of its wealth in the 16th and 17th centuries, there were as many as 250 palaces. Today there are 19 that remain, many of which are hotels or museums. One is still privately owned, but because it contains many original furnishings, treasures and art works, it opens to the public on occasion.

Note the white marble column on the side, identifying the the architect as Andrés de Vandelvira.

Once the walking tour was finished, we felt compelled to enter the Sacred Chapel of the Savior of the World.

In the ante chamber before the sacristy is a signature handkerchief ceiling.

After an amazing lunch at Restaurante Antique, we decided to visit the synagogue. The Water Synagogue was discovered in 2010 when a private person was undergoing a demolition for a new home having bought a group of adjacent properties because they shared walls.

It was the above column that made the archeologists suspect that this had belonged to Jews, but it was the finding of the women’s gallery above that made them believe it was a synagogue.

The synagogue gets its name from the natural springs that run underneath and feed the mikvah. Today the water is still crystal clear.

The complex also includes a kitchen with still intact and half buried storage bowls.

Before leaving town, we got some drone views of the major monuments.

In the morning we were off to Córdoba. Once again we had booked a hotel incredibly well located. Hotel Madinat is in the heart of the old medina of Córdoba, in the historic center. From their website: This traditional Andalucía nowadays, the Madinat Hotel, maintains the appearance of an old-style Casa-Patio run by the bourgeoisie of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Its previous owners include an ex-mayor of the city who was an intimate friend of Julio Romero de Torres and commissioned numerous paintings, including the first poster for the town fair in 1912. The first radio broadcasts in the city were also carried out here in 1929. Its present beauty evokes that period of eclectic modernism through carefully restored features such as rich mouldings, original tiles, paintings and furniture.

Once settled in, we headed out to visit the Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba. The building embodies the history of the area. It was originally built in the mid 6th century as the Visigothic Basilica of Saint Vincent. In the mid 8th century a mosque was built upon the remains. Two years later a minaret was added. As the city grew and prospered, the first extension was added in the mid 9th century, and a new minaret added in the mid 10th century. A second extension was added in the latter half of the 10th century followed by a third extension by the end of the 10th century. At this point it had the capacity for 40,000 worshipers. Following the conquest of the Muslims in the early 12th century, the Christian cathedral was dedicated in 1146. The Royal Chapel was completed in the mid 14th century. In the 15th century a Gothic basilica-shaped nave was erected within, removing 50 original columns. The bell tower was added in the 16th century, the dome of the transept and the vault of the choir in the 17th as well as the main altarpiece. The choir stalls were added in the 18th and restorations were made in the 19th century. In 1984 it was declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO. Restorations have been ongoing.

One enters the Mosque-Cathedral through the Patio de los Narangos (The Oranges Courtyard) full or orange trees, palms, and cypresses.

Then through the main gate.

Upon entrance we were immediately awed at the enormity of the space as well as intrigued by how different it was from every other cathedral we had seen. The columns are all double tiered.

A mihrab is a niche in the wall of a mosque that indicates the qibla, the direction of the Kaaba in Mecca towards which Muslims should face when praying. The columns in front of the entrance to the mihrab are different to demonstrate its importance and position.

The entrance to the mihrab is inscripted in gold with passages from the Quran.

This mihrab is the earliest known to be a room and not just a niche, cannot be entered by tourists. It is elaborately carved white marble.

Right next to the mihrab is what was converted into the sacristy of the cathedral. The cathedral is dedicated to Our Lady of the Assumption. The sacristy has a beautiful marble sculpture dedicated to her.

As in most cathedrals, there are many chapels around the periphery. At the front is the one dedicated to Our Lady of the Assumption.

In the center of the building is the main chapel.

The ceilings, both Muslim and Christian, are all stunning throughout. But the one over the choir is particularly breathtaking, said to be inspired by the Sistine Chapel in Rome.

Having spent several hours in the Mosque-Cathedral, we retired to our room. But first a visit to the rooftop terrace for views of the city.

In the morning we met our walking tour guide Lou at the Plaza of Tendillas located where the historic center of Córdoba meets the modern. We were her only clients.

It is surrounded by examples of typical 19th century Spanish architecture.

Lou then took us for a view of the tower of the Mosque-Cathedral seen through the Calle de los Flores, Road of the Flowers.

We then entered the Jewish Quarter with it’s narrow winding streets. The apartments open onto central courtyards.

We entered the synagogue.

Outside was a statue of Maimonides.

Lou also pointed out the symbols that can be seen on the roads throughout Spain that are of the Camino de Jerusalem: the Sephardic Jewish path to Jerusalem.

We strolled past the Alcázar, fortress of the kings, which we would visit later.

We stopped by the Royal Stables, which was built by order of Philip II in 1570 on part of the site of the city’s Alcázar fortress. With these facilities the King intended to further his project to create purebred Spanish horses. This was the place where the Spanish –or Andalusian– horse was first bred from Arab stock. We were also to come back that night, more on that later.

Beyond the Alcázar is the Jewish wall of the Jewish quarter.

Beyond the Jewish Quarter is the area of Córdoba known for its patios, which are inner courtyards. Every year since 1921 (except during the Spanish Civil War) during the first 2 weeks in May private homes compete for prizes in several categories based on the beauty of their patios. The top prize is 25,000 euros. In order to qualify for the competition the family (or families) must live in the space and maintain the patio on their own. Lou took us to a few that are open to the public.

She also showed us a sculpture dedicated to those who maintain the patios. It emphasizes not only the importance of the patios to the culture of Córdoba, but also the importance of family, passing the tradition from one generation to the next.

Once the tour was over, we headed back to the Alcázar.

The first room is the room of the mosaics.

Honestly, the inside was pretty humdrum; it was all about the views from the tower and the gardens.

Then we went down into the gardens which were immense and impressive despite the end of the season.

On the way back to the hotel we passed the Puerta del Puente, a 16th century gate, built on the site of a previous Roman gate, to welcome King Philip II to the city.

It is at the entrance to the Roman Bridge, which we walked across for a view back at the city.

We went back to rest up for our big night out. We had tickets to the Equestrian Show! The Andalusian horses have been trained in dresage and put on a nightly show in the equestrian arena seen from the tower. There are not more than a few hundred people in attendance around the arena; it is an intimate feeling (very dissimilar to when I saw the Lipizzaners in Madison Square Garden). Alas, pictures were not allowed. But the show was AMAZING! The show started with a single flamenco dancer on a platform, which was then removed for the horses. There were routines with multiple horses dancing in precision interactions (picture an aerial show or the Rockettes). Others had single riders showing intricate dance moves by the horse. In one routine the horses were led by rope and hand motions to dance by themselves. One involved a single rider with a long pole which the horse dance around. There were a couple where the horse and rider danced with a flamenco dancer. I have copied a couple of pictures from the internet to show.

Just spectacular! After the show we went for dinner at El Cabello Andaluz (The Andalusian Horse, fitting).

We felt the need to break down and finally try the Andalusian specialty flamenquin, which is basically rolled layers of meat, cheese, and ham breaded and deep fried. We were not any more impressed than we had expected.

What a full day. In the morning, before leaving town, I wanted to see the Roman Temple built in the first century and discovered in the 1950s during the expansion of City Hall.

Then we were off to Seville. There we had rented an AirBnb for a few days, our last of the trip (laundry time again). Once again we were in the heart of the old city with views, this time of the cathedral.

We walked all around the neighborhood to familiarize ourselves. As in Córdoba, there are plenty of examples of typical 19th century Spanish architecture.

Spain has some of the most gorgeous and huge varieties of ficus trees.

In the morning our walking tour started at the Spanish Plaza which was built for the 1928 Ibero-American Exposition. We met by the North Tower where horse drawn carriages line up for the tourists.

Unfortunately the entire plaza was closed due to a huge storm that had come through in the prior days knocking down trees and making it unsafe. The only building visible was the Seville Pavilion, which is now a cultural center.

We passed the University of Seville.

And stopped in front of the 18th century Royal Tobacco Factory. We were told tales of the cigarillos, the women who were the laborers that rolled the cigarettes. They were generally gypsies, the most famous of which is Carmen, for whom the opera is named. Whenever the factory tried to lower their wages or increase their hours, the entire gypsy community would turn out in protest: one of the earliest examples of collective bargaining.

We walked by the Alfonso XIII Hotel, commissioned by the King of Spain to play host to international dignitaries during the 1929 Exhibition. Its Moorish detailing is typical of Andalusian architecture.

We walked by the Golden Tower which was built by the Moors in 1220 as a watchtower to protect the city on the bank of the Guadalquivir River. In the Middle Ages it was used as a prison. It was damaged in the 1775 Lisbon earthquake, but has been restored and now is a museum of military history.

Miguel de Cervantes, author of Don Quixote lived a large portion of his life in Seville and wrote his famous novel here. There are many statues of him scattered throughout the city.

We then went into the Plaza Nueva (New Plaza) in which stands City Hall. It is a Plateresque-style building, which means the reliefs are in the style of a silversmith. It was a style popular in Spain in the late 15th century. This week there is a book fair going on in the plaza.

With a closer look at the façade, one can see that the right side was never decorated. There was an extension made in the 19th century, funding ran out, and now there are restrictions to changing historical buildings.

We finished our walking tour outside the Cathedral of Seville with its famous tower. It was originally built as a mosque in the 12th century. The cathedral, finished in the 16th century, is one of the largest in the world, the largest in Spain, and is the largest Gothic church in the world.

The Giralda bell tower was originally the minaret of the mosque. The belfry was added in the 15th century. The statue on its top, called “El Giraldillo”, was installed in 1568 to represent the triumph of the Christian faith.

A copy of El Giradillo now is on street level.

Here we also found lots more horse drawn carriages.

After the tour we took a walk and found an Asian-Spanish fusion tapas place where we had the most delicious late lunch.

Eric then left for his poker tournament, and I headed out for a walking tour of the Jewish quarter: Santa Cruz. While waiting for the tour to begin, we were entertained by a Flamenco street dancer.

As typical, the streets were narrow and winding. But then we came out onto Plaza de Alfaro with this famous balcony:

The legend is that the love story that unfolded at this balcony was the inspiration for the Barber of Seville. Seville likes to boast inspiration for many operas in addition to the 2 mentioned: The Marriage of Figaro, Don Giovanni, and several more.

Santa Cruz also has examples of what were Jewish apartment housing complexes with central courtyards now transformed into lush high end hotels.

Church of Santa María la Blanca was built as a mosque in the 12th century but after the conquest of the Moors in Seville in 1248, it was given to the Jews by Ferdinand II as a synagogue. In 1391 after the anti-Jewish revolt in Seville, it was transformed into a church.

Around the side is the original synagogue entrance.

On the street in front of it can be found the Jewish Camino symbol.

We finished our tour on Mármoles street where there are 3 Egyptian granite columns almost 9 m high, set on local marble bases. They were made in the time of the Emperor Hadrian and possibly formed part of some Roman temple.

When I got home I was treated to this sight through the window.

Eric was knocked out of his tournament making him available for more sightseeing the next day. After morning errands and some shopping, we headed to the cathedral to see the inside. First we climbed Giralda Tower for the views.

The we went into the church. The height is overwhelming, the size awe inspiring. We spent several hours with audio guides exploring, so much to see.

Among the many notables buried in the church are Christopher Columbus and his son. Below is the monument over his tomb.

In one of the side chapels is the baptismal font.

There are so many splendid side chapels it is hard to pick one to show, but below is the largest and tallest and is one of my favorites due to the elaborately carved marble statues.

There are many beautiful works of art throughout the cathedral. One of the most famous is that by Francisco de Goya painted in 1818 of the sisters Saints Justa and Rufina, natives of Seville, at the moment Saint Rufina was thrown to the lions and her sister ran to her side. The lion is lciking Saint Rufina’s feet, depicting her taming of it. The Giralda Tower can be seen in the background.

The Chapter Room is for meetings. Leather covered benches can be seen against the walls, which are purposely left empty making the space even more impressive. The painting of The Saviour fits perfectly into the oval shaped ceiling; obviously it was painted for this space.

In the sacristy are many beautiful treasures one of which, Spain’s most valuable crown, the Virgen de los Reyes. It has over 11,000 stones and the world’s largest pearl (pictured below, used as the angel’s torso).

The choir is typical of many we have seen in the Gothic cathedrals of Spain: intricately carved mahogany stalls with a large central music stand.

The crowning glory is the world’s largest altarpiece. Craftsman Pierre Dancart spent 44 years carving Retablo Mayor from wood. The gilded high altar of Capilla Mayor (Grand Chapel) features scenes from the Old Testament, the life of Christ plus images of saints. At the bottom center is Santa Maria la Sede, the cathedral’s patron saint

We exited the cathedral through the Courtyard of Oranges with a final look back at the Giralda Tower.

And with that our visit to Seville was complete. On to Cádiz for a beach trip. We had booked in our first modern Parador. The room was not yet ready, so we took a long walk along the beach and out to the 18th century Castle of San Sebastián which is currently closed.

But from there we had a great view of the beach and the 17th century fortress Castle of Santa Catalina.

After a late lunch right off the beach, our room was ready.

The doors completely opened onto a terrace with this view.

Ah what beauty and relaxation. We took another beach walk at sunset.

In the morning we took a quick walking tour. There’s not a lot of historical significance in Cádiz, but we did learn some fun facts. For one, Cádiz at 3,500 years, is the oldest continuously inhabited city in the Western world. Our tour started in Plaza San Juan de Dios in front of Town Hall flying the flags below from left to right: the Andalusian flag, the Spanish flag, and the Cádiz flag.

The pediment base relief shows Hercules, the legendary founder of the city. He is also depicted on the city flag. The legend is that one of Hercules’ 12 labors to achieve immortality was to separate the continent of Europe and Africa. He was said to have lived in Cádiz at the time.

We walked past some Roman ruins.

And toward the water to look back at the Old Town of Cádiz, which is called “Little Havana” based on it’s colorful houses. They are meant to be a cheerful sight for the sailors returning from a voyage.

Another fun fact: in the early days of ships sailing to the Americas, they often left with much more cargo than they had on the return. In order to have enough ballast to weight the boat upright, they often carried back river stones which were then used to pave the streets of the old city.

We passed the 18th century Cádiz Cathedral. Notice the street here in the newer section of town is not that of river stones.

In the same square is a cute church.

Now fun fact #3: When Napoleon was defeated in the early 19th century, his army left behind over 300 canons. Many were melted down for various uses, the most common of which was to protect the corners of buildings on the narrow streets from damage cause by carriages passing too closely.

As in many Spanish towns, the post office is impressive.

As is the market.

Being a Monday, the market was very quiet; no fish sellers. But worth a peek inside to see the preserved columns.

After the tour, we headed back to the beach. Along the way we passed yet another amazing ficus tree.

In the morning we drove to the city of Algeciras to return our rental car after 51 days of driving. We then caught a taxi to nearby Tarifa where we checked into a tiny guest house tucked into the Old City right against the Old City wall, with a part of the wall exposed in the guest house lobby.

After checking in, we strolled over to the port passing the monument of Sancho IV El Bravo, 13th century King of Castile, in front of the Guzman Castle.

The castle was built in the 10th century by the Moors to protect the harbor.

We strolled out past the Santa Catalina Castle, built in 1933 as a military base on the site of a previous fortress, but is now abandoned.

There is a long peninsula jutting off the beach of Tarifa and separates the Atlantic Ocean from the Mediterranean Sea.

The next morning we boarded our ferry to Tangier, Morocco.

On the way out of the harbor we passed the staue of Jesus Christ, a fitting goodbye to Spain.

After dropping Howard at Lisbon airport, we headed due east into the Alentejo region of Portugal. We were to be staying in Evora, but with the full day ahead of us and bad weather in the forecast, we decided to keep going east to visit Elvas, which is almost to the border of Spain.

We drove up to the Fort Da Graça, which is actually about 1 km north of the town. It was originally built in the 17th century, but was used primarily during the 18th century to protect Portugal from Spanish invasion.

We entered the complex through the first gate,

What is particularly interesting about the fort is both its multiple layers of fortification and its pentagonal shape. Eric got the drone up for some shots just ahead of the rain.

Unfortunately it was too windy to go higher for the full view. Then we entered through the next gate through the drawbridge into the inner area.

From there we had a view of the town of Elvas in the distance.

We went into the main building, now a museum dedicated to the military.

Leaving the fort, we headed to the town of Elvas. We stopped to take a photo of the town with its castle sitting high on the hill.

And these girls came over to say hello.

We finally made it up the hill, found parking, and climbed the rest of the way into town.

We explored around the town which, based on the number of high end clothing stores and silver place settings stores, seems to cater to the well off.

We had a delicious lunch in an out-of-the-way side street cafe, then headed back down the hill. On the way, we stopped for a drone shot of the aqueduct.

We then headed toward the town of Vila Vicosa. We opted for the back roads route. We passed not only cow, goat, and sheep farms, and olive and citrus groves, but also several cork plantations. Portugal is the number one cork exporter in the world, providing about 50% of the world’s cork.

The town of Vila Vicosa is one of the cutest ever with citrus trees lining almost every street.

Unfortunately when we arrived at the Duke’s Palace, it had closed early due to a power outage and not enough light.

As it was starting to rain, we headed to our hotel, Noble House in Evora. Eric had booked us the Garden Suite. It had a little terrace in a small private garden in front of the room.

When we entered the room, WOW! We had never stayed in such a unique room before.

The wall next to our sitting area was part of the original Roman wall surrounding the town!

Anyone who knows me well knows how much I love all things ancient. I love to sense the lives that were lived thousands of years ago in this spot: people loving, living, giving birth, dying. So similar to us and yet so very different. And with the next day’s weather, a storm bringing 1-2 inches of rain with winds 30-40 mph, what better place to be holed up!

When there was a small break in the weather the next day, we went where any reasonable person would go on a stormy day: the Chapel of Bones. The chapel is part of the Church of St. Francis, built by monks in the 16th century. So first a stop in the church.

What makes the interior of this church most beautiful are the exquisite mables. I did not realize how much Portugal is known for marble quarries and exports. In this church some of the naves have as many as 4 different colored marbles.

But it was time to move on to what we came for: the bones. The Chapel of the bones was built by the Franciscan monks because by the 16th century, there were as many as 43 cemeteries in and around Évora that were taking up valuable land. Not wanting to condemn the souls of the people buried there, the monks decided to build the Chapel and relocate the bones.

It is not necessarily easy to see in the picture above, but all the little bumps on the walls that are not skulls are the ends of long bones: femur, tibia, etc., seen better in this picture:

The Chapel was part creepy but mostly fascinating. This is the poem inscribed on one of the columns:

On the way out we realized we had missed the inscription over the entrance door:

Another break in the rain gave us a chance to get out for dinner, which we enjoyed at Restaurante Tipico Guiao.

The next morning found the weather markedly improved (though a bit cool, the first hint of autumn) in time for our walking tour. We started on the outskirts of town to see a section of the remaining Roman aqueduct.

During the Moors’ occupation of the city (like all of Portugal, roughly 8th-12th centuries) they built homes right in amongst the aqueduct.

There are few Roman walls left;of the four entryways through the walls, only one remains.

At the top of the city’s main square sits the 16th century Renaissance Church of Saint Anthony.

The square is called Giraldo Square, paying tribute to Fearless Geraldo Geraldes, the man who conquered Evora from the Moors in 1167. We walked by the cathedral.

And then the famous Roman ruin, most probably a temple to Diana, goddess of hunting.

As we climbed to higher ground, we were able to get a good view of the cathedral.

And a view of a larger portion of the aqueduct.

And also a look at the university.

Evora is the capital of the Alentejo region of Portugal and has the main university as well as the main hospital and many of the municipal buildings.

Our guide pointed out the symbol of the Inquisition.

And finally this curious 16th century Renaissance church topped by four large mythological figures supporting globes, meant to symbolize the four corners of the earth and the universal power of King João III.

Upon completion of the walking tour, we decided to go back and see the cathedral in more detail. For the beginning of the visit we were directed to go up and view the church through the choir above.

Then the visit guided us up to the terrace.

Eric was brave enough to take in the views,

while I took pictures while plastered against the back wall.

Then we went down to the chapel.

And the main church.

Like St. Francis Church, the marble in the church of the cathedral was spectacular.

After a rest it was back out for dinner at Abruxa D’Evora.

There we had the most delicious gazpacho ever, served with a grilled sardine on toast.

Walking back to our romantic Roman room, the night sky had cleared, and we passed the Roman ruins lit up.

We could not believe our visit to the Alentejo region was over. The next day as we drove nearly 3 hours through so much farm land, vineyards, more cork plantations, groves, etc., we had our first itinerary regret of our journey to date: we wished we had allotted more time in the Alentejo region. It turned out to be our favorite, and we had only 3 short days, interrupted by rain. If we were to plan this trip over, not only would we have spent more time, but we would have then stayed in Vila Vicosa, which had a very cute looking Pousada right next to the Duke’s Palace. Vila Vicosa is more closely located to all the towns which we did not get a chance to visit partly due to weather, but partly due to their distances from Evora.

When we arrived in Salema our room was not yet ready, so we headed right to the beach.

We had a lovely lunch of fish soup right off the beach with views of the water at Agua Na Boca. Then our room at the Nau Salema Beach Village was ready. Once again we were pleasantly surprised with our gorgeous views.

The next day we had yet another storm of 1-2 inches of rain and over 40 mph winds (our third in a week). Luckily we had scheduled some extra time in the Algarve to take a bit of a vacation from our vacation. So having brought in plenty of groceries to our fully equipped kitchen, we rode out the storm in comfort.

The next day we had a walking tour scheduled in Lagos, so out we went. The day started off cool, crisp, and cloudy.

We met in Praça Gil Eanes by the sculpture of the androgynous King Sebastião who elevated Lagos to a city in 1573. He was an explorer and adventurer. The statue was designed by João Cutileiro in 1972 as a tribute to both the king and the then ongoing space exploration.

We headed first into the market, which was pretty quiet on a Monday.

The Algarve is known for its many varieties of figs and fig products.

Although one of the main industries in Lagos has always been sardine canning, octopus is also a main export as well as menu item here and throughout Portugal.

Fishing and now tourism are both big businesses in Lagos ports.

In the 15th century age of exploration, for a time King Henry lived in Lagos and sent many ships to explore and “conquer” the New World from there.

In Prince Henry’s square stands Igreja da Santa Maria, originally a 15th century church built on the old Roman walls. But the church was completely destroyed in the earthquake of 1755 and has been rebuilt and restored several times since.

Also in the square are numerous jacaranda trees. After the storms, the hardened seeds falling are very hard and painful.

Lagos is known for its plentitude of street art.

And also some beautiful art nouveau buildings.

The last stop on our tour was in front of one of the first schools in Lagos.

We then headed to lunch at Don Sebastião Restaurante.

And we tried an Algarve specialty: cataplana, which takes its roots from Moroccan tangine.

We spent the afternoon strolling on the Salema beach and had Indian take-away from The Spice Cottage for dinner.

The next morning we headed out to Sagres Fort: the end (or beginning) of Europe.

Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, and Romans believed this was the ideal gathering place for their gods, due to the absence of humans. The Romans called Sagres the promontorium sacrum, or the end of the world, because in ancient times it was the last explored point before heading out to sea.  The fortress on Sagres Point was built in the 15th century under the command of Infante Henry the Navigator with the purpose to protect the area from attacks coming from Northern Africa.

We hiked out onto the promontory, which is quite rugged.

Back at the fort, there were tons of school children. Inside the fort was a museum for the children explaining the age of exploration and showing how the explorers lived aboard ship.

We climbed to the top of the fort.

Below the children were building a ship reproduction of one the explorers used.

Despite the lighthouse being closed, we felt the need to drive around to the point.

We got back in the car and drove to what promised to be a monolith dating to between the 4th and 3rd millennium BC. This is what we found.

Then it was back to our own Salema beach to enjoy the sand and beach and a big late lunch at Olhos N’Água.

The next day we were to leave Portugal and head back into southern Spain.