We left Monteverde on our first sunny morning since arriving in Costa Rica. Our drive was long to reach the Pacific, but we made a few stops along the way. The first was at Puento Rio Barranca, a very touristy spot to view the American crocodiles. This is an American crocodile, a species found across the Neotropics. They are the most widespread crocodile species in the Americas, found in freshwater rivers, lakes, estuaries, and saltwater habitats.  American crocodiles can grow over 20 feet long.  

We also made a stop to take a picture of a couple Scarlet Macaws, large, vibrant parrots native to the humid evergreen forests of the Americas. They are easily recognizable by their brilliant red, yellow, and blue plumage.  Their powerful beaks allow them to crack even the hardest nuts. These two were either fighting or mating, hard to distinguish from our vantage point.

As we neared or destination we saw a large crowd on the side of the road. Our driver pulled over when we noticed everyone taking pictures of this adorable 3-toed sloth who appeared to be posing for the pics.

We arrived at the Parador Resort in the late afternoon.

The resort is so large, after check-in we were driven by golf cart to our room. We settled in and immediately saw another pair of Scarlet Macaws. These birds can be up to 32 inches long, with their long, flowing tail making up more than half that length. 

We spent the remainder of the afternoon exploring the resort with its interesting mix of old Spanish style

and Caribbean charm. We had a very late lunch by the pool.

On our way back to our room we spied an yellow-headed caracara. The yellow-headed caracara is a bird of lightly treed open landscapes, like savanna with palms and scattered trees, ranch lands and pastures,  and the edges of forests. In elevation, it mostly ranges from sea level to 3,300 ft. 

The next morning, after breakfast in the lovely dining room

we were driven to Manuel Antonio National Park by our driver and Roberto, our guide for the day. Along the way Roberto told us that the park was established in 1972, when the local community, encouraged sought to conserve the natural environment by prohibiting development and destruction planned by a then large banana industry. They also protested the beach restrictions imposed by foreign owners on locals. The park has a land area of 4,900 acres and 63,340 acres of water. The park is crossed by a network of trails equipped with universal accessibility facilities, rest areas, and scenic overlooks.

While waiting on line for entrance to the park, we saw a juvenile black hawk drying and warming its wings in the early morning sun. Black Hawks are apex predators in the jungle and particularly like crabs and fish. They are commonly found in Costa Rica’s coastal mangroves, rivers, and wetlands. Adults, weighing roughly 2.5 pounds, are known for their broad wings, short tail with a white band, and yellow legs, while juveniles have a brown-streaked appearance. 

The entrance search was thorough; the preserve is quite careful., especially regarding food and plastics. Once through the security, but still waiting for entrance to the park, we saw a  green iguana, a large, arboreal (tree-dwelling) lizard native to tropical regions of Central and South America, as well as the Caribbean. They are herbivores, primarily eating leaves, flowers, and fruits. 

Roberto identified this one as a male due to his crest, and he is in breeding colors, which can turn orange or reddish during mating season to attract a mate. Males can grow to over 6.6 feet in length. 

 Manuel Antonio is a gallery forest, ie a forest restricted to the banks of a river or stream. We entered the trail.

Our first sighting inside the park was a smooth helmeted iguana, also known locally as the helmeted basilisk. They are arboreal, meaning they live in trees, and are active during the day (diurnal). They are New World lizards found in tropical forests, ranging from southern Mexico to northwestern Colombia. Adults can grow to be up to 14 inches (35 cm) long. 

The prominent, helmet-like crest on their head is a distinctive feature. 

We found two White-lined bats, small, insectivorous bats identified by two distinct white stripes along their backs. They are commonly found in lowland forests, often roosting in groups on tree trunks or abandoned buildings, and are known for their unique hovering flight and complex vocalizations. They help keep the mosquito population down by eating as many as 3,000 mosquitoes (roughly a third of their body weight) a night.

Very common here in the park are Halloween moon crabs. They are primarily herbivores, feeding on leaves, fruits, and flowers.  It is a species of terrestrial crab found in the coastal tropical eastern Pacific from Baja California to Peru. The crab is recognizable by its distinct coloration: a purplish-blue shell (carapace), red legs, and white or yellowish main pincers.  They are common among mangrove roots, where they typically build their burrows, which help develop the soil. 

Roberto pointed out that the discoloration of the water in the river is not pollution but rather minerals, especially large quantities of calcium.

I was particularly drawn to this plant, a Beefsteak Heliconia, native to Central and Northwest South America. The plant is known for its large, pendent (hanging) inflorescences that resemble a beefsteak, which can grow up to 2 feet in length. These inflorescences consist of many blood-red bracts (modified leaves) arranged in two rows. 

This is a common basilisk, known locally as the Jesus Christ lizard because of their ability to run across the surface of water to escape predators. This ability is due to specialized skin flaps on their back feet that expand upon striking the water, creating enough surface tension to support them for a brief period. 

They are found in Central and South American rainforests near rivers and streams. They can reach up to about 3 feet in total length. This is a female because she is lacking a crest on her head.

We saw another male green iguana, this one has a different mating color.

This tree is in the beginning stages of being strangled by the strangler ficus vines.

The Chung Palm, referred to as the “porcupine palm”, is a spiky-trunked palm found in rainforests. It is characterized by extremely sharp, long black spines covering its trunk and leaves, which act as a defense mechanism with spines sometimes reaching up to 8 inches long. The spines are often used to produce fiber for baskets, hats, and, traditionally, fishing nets.

The spiky palm produces a type of date seen below in the hanging bunch at about 4 o’clock.

There was a crowd gathered trying to get pictures of the 3- toed sloth. The 3- toed sloth incubates for 9 months; the cub stays with its mom for only 6 months. Compared to 2 toed sloths, 3-toed sloths are smaller, diurnal (vs the nocturnal 2-toed), possess distinct dark facial markings resembling a smile, and have a more restricted diet of leaves.

We spied an agouti hiding in the brush. We did not see him nearly as well as we had seen the one in Arenal. More agouti fun facts: they are famous as the only animals capable of cracking open tough Brazil nut pods. They are highly agile, capable of jumping up to 6 feet high, and are generally monogamous.

Roberto showed us a Fer-de-lance, a highly venomous pit viper species found in Central and South America. He reiterated what every guide has told us, “Always stay on the path.” Due to its potent venom and tendency to live near human habitations, it is important to watch your step in areas where these snakes are present. It is one of the largest and most dangerous venomous snakes in its habitat and is responsible for 80% of all bites in costa Rica, but most commonly the bites occur to those harvesting on banana, coffee, or chocolate plantations. 

The venom can cause significant hypotension and renal failure in severe cases. Anti-venom is produced using horses. Guides do not carry anti-venom. Some people are allergic to the ani-venom, so it can only be used by a doctor in a hospital setting.

We started to leave the gallery forest and enter the mangrove forest. Here the water is brackish: a mixture of salt and fresh water. These white mangroves are notable for their areal roots.

While the black mangroves breath via spikes from the underground upward. Mangrove wood is highly water resistant; in past years it was popular for making furniture. But mangrove gardens are an important ecosystem producing 10 times more oxygen per area than the rain forest. In Costa Rica cutting down a mangrove is a crime equivalent to murder with a minimum sentence of 6 years in prison.

Roberto showed us a Tucum palm whose leaves contain a strong fiber used for making fishing nets, ropes, and hammocks.  This genus of palms is native to Mexico, South and Central America, and the Caribbean. The fruits are ovoid and ripen from green to bright yellow or orange. The fruit pulp is edible and described as sweet with a grape flavor. 

He also pointed out aptly named monkey brushes, which are actually chestnuts from the the Guiana chestnut tree,   a common nut-bearing tree in Costa Rica, often called the Provision tree. Thriving in wetlands, it produces large pods with edible seeds that taste like peanuts or chestnuts when roasted. 

Another small crowd piqued our curiosity; we found them photoing this sleeping White-nosed Caoti. These highly social, diurnal, and omnivorous members of the raccoon family are found from Arizona to Colombia. Known for their long, flexible, white-tipped snouts and striped tails, these creatures live in female-led bands, utilize double-jointed ankles to climb down trees headfirst, and are skilled foragers.

We saw many more Halloween crabs. These nocturnal, 2-4 inch burrowers are not true marine crabs, relying on high humidity to breathe while acting as colorful, mostly herbivorous scavengers. If injured or threatened, they can regrow limbs during their molting process. They are not ideal for group housing in captivity, as they can be very territorial and fight with each other. After shedding their exoskeleton, they will eat their old shell to regain nutrients. With proper care, they can live for about 8-10 years.Despite returning to the water to spawn, they are land crabs and cannot swim.

We stopped to note an albino tree frog, amphibians known for their ability to climb and live in arboreal environments. 

Their coloration can vary widely, often changing to match their surroundings for camouflage. 

The Dutchman’s Pipe is a spectacular, fast-growing, evergreen, woody, tropical, climbing vine. Native to the humid forests, it features large, heart-shaped leaves and unique, massive, pipe-shaped, maroon-white flowers that can grow up to 30 cm long, often emitting a carrion-like scent to attract flies.

At this point we had been teasingly asking Roberto, “where are all the monkeys?” We had been in Costa Rica and not seen one. Granted they do not like to come out in the rain any more than we do, but it was a warm sunny day. Surely they must be hungry.

Roberto no sooner insisted that this is where they are most commonly found, and sure enough a family of howler monkeys were first heard, then spied in the trees above. Howler monkeys tend to live in family groups of 15-20 with a single alpha male. They are herbivores. They are primarily arboreal, living in Central/South American treetops, rarely descending to the ground, and using their 5x body-length, prehensile tails as a fifth limb.

Roberto found the alpha male.

We no sooner finished filming the howler monkeys, and the white-faced capuchin monkeys made an appearance. They are highly intelligent, social primates found in Central and South American forests, recognized by their black bodies and white-faced “cap.” Known for using tools like stones to crack nuts, they are incredibly social, living in troops of 15–30, and are famous for their varied diet, including fruits, insects, and small vertebrates. 

Suddenly they sere everywhere all around us.  Their long tail is semi-prehensile, often carried coiled up, and used for balance or to help anchor them while feeding.

Roberto told us that bamboo is not native to Costa Rica but was brought here many years ago for making furniture. It is now invasive.

Further along the trail we found a pair of wax-tailed grasshoppers. They are known for their distinguishing long, white, hair-like structures which are are wax plumes projecting from their abdomens produced from plant nutrients they consume. They are small, sap-sucking insects found in tropical and subtropical regions. The exact function of these plumes is unknown, but entomologists believe they may serve a defensive purpose, possibly distracting predators. The insects feed by inserting their mouthparts into the phloem of plants to consume the sap. 

Ultimately we saw so many monkeys and took so many pictures, I will only include some of my favorites here like this guy scratching his head.

After a snack of fresh fruit inside a caged enclosure (roof of which is seen above) to keep the food from the monkeys, we chose not to relax on the beach; too little time, too much to see. We hiked a small extension and were rewarded first with this chestnut-backed antbird. These birds primarily live on insects, with frogs and lizards as occasional additions to their diet. It is a passerine bird found in humid forests in Central and South America, specifically in Colombia, Costa Rica, Ecuador, Honduras, Nicaragua, and Panama. They are known to be monogamous and a pair will defend their territory year-round. 

The even bigger reward came in the sighting of a tamandua, one of two species of anteaters found in Costa Rica. They are found in tropical and subtropical forests and grasslands from southern Mexico to the edge of the northern Andes. They primarily forage for ants and termites, using their long, tubular snouts and sticky tongues to feed.  These animals are semi-arboreal, meaning they spend a significant amount of time in trees, aided by their partially prehensile tails. 

We also found a beautiful female arrow-shaped orbweaver. This species of spider is known for its unique and beautiful appearance and for building spiral, wheel-shaped webs. It plays a beneficial role in the ecosystem by helping to control insect populations.  The female has a distinctive, arrow-shaped abdomen, often with a bright red or orange color, and is harmless to humans. 

We did pass by the beach, one of the most popular to visit in all of Costa Rica.

Roberto had us pose in front of the national park sign as he told us each national park in Costa Rica has a unique animal figure: this one has a monkey, seen behind Eric’s head.

The blue flags are part of the “Bandera Azul Ecológica” (Ecological Blue Flag) program. This is an award in Costa Rica for beaches, marinas, and boats that meet stringent environmental, safety, and accessibility criteria. 

Roberto explained that the extended part of the beach to the right in the picture below (and is the extension seen at one o’clock in the above trail map) is called a tombolo: a narrow strip of land (isthmus) connecting an island to the mainland. Formed by wave refraction and longshore drift, these depositional features create a “tied island”. They represent a sensitive, evolving coastal microclimate.

Near the beach were so many more monkeys.

But of all my monky pictures, the following is my favorite. I actually took a video of a momma breastfeeding her baby while climbing from tree to tree; this is a still from that video.

Out on the rocks were dozens of pelicans.

The males are those with the white heads; the females have grey heads.

The “death tree” in Costa Rica is the Manchineel, often called “little apple of death.” It is considered the world’s most dangerous tree, with all parts, including its milky sap and small, green apple-like fruit, containing potent toxins that cause severe skin blisters, blindness, and intense, potentially fatal respiratory distress if ingested. There are signs not to touch, and yet, Robertos tells us, many ignore the sign. It is the one below leaning out over the beach with people sitting under its furthest branches.

The Guayabón tree is a large, fast-growing tropical hardwood native to Central and South America, often reaching heights of 30 to 45 meters.It is known for its smooth, tan-colored bark and strong, durable wood used in construction and furniture. It was planted here in the park in the beginning as an attempt to reforest the land after the banana plantations were removed, generally considered pioneer species in disturbed habitats. However, Roberto informed us, the fauna here in the park have yet to figure out a use for the tree.

The African oil palm is not native to Costa Rica; it is native to West Africa. However, it is the primary source of palm oil. and has been brought here to replace the bananas as a significant commercial crop. It can quickly grow up to 60 feet tall. 

Trametes versicolor, also know as turkey tail mushrooms owing to its shape being similar to that of a wild turkey’s tail feathers, are often used in Eastern medicine. They contain an abundance of physiologically bioactive compounds, most notably β-glucan polysaccharides, which are responsible for antioxidant, neuroprotection, hypolipidemic effects, immune-modulating effects, and anticancer effects.

A black spiny-tailed iguana, also known as the black iguana generally is predominantly black, but the back may show black bands on a grayish background. This species is native to Mexico and Central America. Adult males can reach up to 18 inches long, with an additional 18 inches for the tail. They are primarily herbivores, eating leafy greens, flowers, and vegetables, but younger iguanas may also consume small insects. This species is known to be highly gregarious and territorial, often living in colonies with a strict social hierarchy.  They are the fastest runners among lizards, clocking in at over 21 mph.

On our way out of the park we spotted this owl-eye butterfly. It was unusual to find one at mid-day as they are crepuscular, meaning they are most active during dawn and dusk. Adults primarily feed on the juices of rotting fruit, such as bananas, papayas, and mangos. 

We left the park happy with our many finds

then headed back to the resort to spend the remainder of the day at the adults-only swimming pool.

A resident sloth was also taking an afternoon snooze.

The next day’s adventure was a boat tour of the estuary of Damas Island. We were picked up by our guide Warner at 6:30 am because we had to arrive at the estuary at high tide or it would not be deep enough for the boat. As we drove Warner informed us that prior to the 1920s the local town of Quepos was a mangrove forest until a banana company came in and plowed it under. Currently if it rains excessively, the entire town floods and crocodiles can be spotted in the streets. In the 1960s a Panama fungus began killing the banana trees. Since then African palm trees have mostly replaced the bananas. There are currently 160,000 acres cultivated for palm oil in the region. When we boarded the boat, I failed to take a photo; I have included a stock photo here instead.

The estuary contains over 1300 acres of mangroves. The first area of the river is brackish water and is home to many species of birds. The first we saw was this yellow crown night heron. Adults have a distinctive black and white face pattern, a pale yellow or white crown, and red eyes. Their body plumage is primarily gray, sometimes appearing with a slightly bluish-violet tint. They are stocky, compact herons with thick necks and a black bill. Unlike the Black-crowned Night Heron, the Yellow-crowned Night Heron is found exclusively in the Americas. 

All around us were many black vultures. They are large, entirely black birds, including their featherless heads and necks. Black vultures are scavengers that primarily feed on carrion (dead animals). They often soar in flocks and are known for having a shorter, broader tail compared to turkey vultures. In flight, they display distinctive silvery-white patches on the undersides of their wingtips. 

Warner showed us a female Ringed Kingfisher, the largest kingfisher found in the Americas. They are known for their loud and raucous calls.  Females have a blue-gray breast band and a chestnut or rufous belly, separated by a narrow white border. The bird has a shaggy crest and a very large, heavy bill. They are commonly found along rivers and streams, where they hunt for fish from a prominent perch.  

Juvenile yellow crown night herons have streaked brown and white plumage, which helps them camouflage. It takes approximately three years for them to fully acquire their adult plumage. 

We found another Jesus Christ lizard. At speeds of 5 feet per second. Native to Central American rainforests, these lizards can travel 15+ feet on water, are excellent swimmers, and can dive for up to 30 minutes. 

And another juvenile yellow night crown heron, this one not hiding in the brush so we could see its full height. Yellow crown night herons are specialized crab-eaters with highly acidic stomachs that dissolves shells. Unlike most night herons, they are active both day and night, using their stout bills to crush prey. They are known for their unique, sometimes tool-using, hunting techniques. 

Yellow-crowned Night Herons are meticulous groomers that spend significant time maintaining their plumage, which is essential for waterproofing and protection against parasites. Their grooming routines are often intensive, particularly during the breeding season when they need to display pristine plumage to attract mates.

Great Egrets are common in the estuary. It is a large, all-white bird, approximately 3 ft tall with a wingspan of about 4.5 ft. Key identifying features are its bright yellow bill and entirely black legs and feet. It is a widespread and common species found across the globe, including the Americas, Europe, Africa, Asia, and Australia. During breeding season, the bill can become more orange, and it develops long, lacy plumes on its back. 

There are about 120 species of bats in costa Rica. Warner pointed out a row of Proboscis bats, also known as the Brazilian long-nosed bat. They are found in Central and South America, typically along rivers and streams. Unlike most bats, they are active during the day and can be found in colonies of up to 100 individuals. 

They are small, measuring about 6 cm (2.4 inches) in length, and feed on small insects caught in flight over water. They roost in well-lit areas, often on tree trunks or branches.

As we continued along the river Warner explained that there are four distinct species of mangrove in the estuary, with varying methods of extruding salt from their system. The tallest, most upright is the white mangrove. It extracts salt through glands in the leaves. The salt then accumulates on the leaves giving them a white appearance.

The yellow mangrove is shorter and bushier. It too has glands in the leaves that extract salt, but it then kills the leaf which turns yellow and ultimately falls from the tree.

The Red Mangrove is the fastest growing. Red mangroves manage high salinity through a two-part exclusion and storage mechanism: utilizing ultra-filtration in their roots to block salt uptake, and storing excess salt in older leaves, which then turn yellow and fall off. Unlike white and yellow mangroves, they do not have specialized leaf glands to excrete salt. They are typically found in the most seaward, high-salinity zones.

Black mangroves also manage high salinity by absorbing saltwater and excreting excess salt through specialized glands on their leaves. Visible salt crystals often coat the leaves, especially during the dry season.

Black mangroves also use pneumatophores  (snorkel-like roots) to breathe in anaerobic mud.

An important aspect of a mangrove forest is the maturation of crocodiles. Crocodiles are cannibals; they will eat their own young. The baby crocodiles hide in the tangles of the roots of the mangrove forest where the large adults cannot penetrate.

Termites do not eat green wood; they do not harm their host tree. They only eat dry dead wood. Warner taught us that inner, honeycomb-like “carton” material of a termite nest is often dry, lightweight, and fibrous, making it excellent fire starter if one is camping or lost in the woods.

We saw yet another green iguana.

One of the women on the boat was anxious to see a silky anteater, also known as the pygmy anteater. Found in southern Mexico, and Central and South America, it is the smallest of all known anteaters, measuring 14-18 inches and weighing 6-14 ounces. It is nocturnal, arboreal, and has a semi-prehensile tail used for gripping branches. Warner found us one, albeit curled up sleeping.

The baby green iguana is great at camouflage.

A Eurasian Whimbrel, a type of wader in the sandpiper family, is a medium-sized bird, identified by its distinctive long, down-curved bill used for probing in mud and sand for prey.  The plumage is mottled brown, with a striking crown pattern marked by a dark stripe down the center.  

Whimbrels are migratory birds, breeding in Alaska.  They are fairly gregarious outside of the breeding season. Over 300 species of birds commute from Alaska and Canada to Costa Rica this time of year.

We made it out to Damas Island before turning back.

We found an Anhinga, also commonly known as the snakebird or darter. When swimming, they often keep only their head and long, S-shaped neck above the water, which makes them look like a snake. Anhingas are large waterbirds found in the warmer regions of the Americas, inhabiting swamps, mangroves, and lakes. They are known for their unique hunting style, diving underwater and spearing fish with their sharp, dagger-like bills. Unlike many waterbirds, their feathers are not fully waterproof, which allows them to achieve neutral buoyancy for diving but requires them to perch with outstretched wings to dry their plumage afterward. 

After the boat ride we were treated to a delicious typical Costa Rican breakfast of eggs, rice and beans, and fried plantains. On our return to the resort we pulled over to take pictures of a macaw perched atop a dead tree stump. Warner explained that macaws often nest and lay eggs inside dead trees. They are generally found in pairs. They can live up to 70-80 years and remain monogamous as long as their mate is alive. But if the mate dies, they will find a new one. They had become endangered in Costa Rica in the 1970s when owning them as pets became illegal. Since then their population has increased by 280%.

We dropped a couple at their lodgings and there found a tree frog warming itself in the sun. They possess specialized, adhesive, toe pads that allow them to cling to, and climb vertical surfaces like glass or, waxy leaves

Tree frogs sink their large eyes into their skull to help push food down their throat.

Once back at the resort we spent the afternoon again lazing by the pool. Eric sent up his drone to take a picture of the resort.

In the morning we were driven to a boat landing where we were joined by a fun couple from Tennessee and staff of our lodge including the dive master Rafael. Our luggage was stored in huge dry-bags and loaded onto the boat.

And off we sailed.

Along the way the captain pulled close to shore so Rafael could point out the pootoo bird, a type of nocturnal bird known for its incredible camouflage, mimicking broken tree branches or stumps during the day to avoid predators. At night they hunt insects using their large eyes for low-light vision. 

When we arrived we had to remove our shoes and climb to shore via the beach. The captain was expert in avoiding the rocks.

First activity was washing all the sand off our feet in the lovely foot-bath provided.

We were welcomed to our new home: the Corcovado Wilderness Lodge.

We immediately took note of the blue eco flag, making us feel good about the choice of lodgings..

But glancing up the path, we were a bit disturbed by the steepness of the path but were quickly reassured that a limo was coming for us.

While waiting for its arrival, we enjoyed the beautiful surroundings. The  Traveler’s Tree, also known as the Traveler’s Palm, is native to Madagascar; it thrives in warm, humid tropical climates and can grow quite large with a sturdy trunk.  

It is famous for its large, fan-shaped arrangement of leaves that look similar to a banana tree.  The common name derives from the anecdote that thirsty travelers can obtain water collected within its leaf sheaths. 

A native to Central America and most warm, humid tropical climates is the t Parrot’s Beak, Parakeet Flower, or, more commonly, False Bird-of-Paradise. It is in the Heliconia family, a family of plants I am truly starting to love.

A last look at the beach and,

our carriage arrived. The tractor was for all the luggage and staff.

We rode in the little jeep.

On the ride up to reception we saw a caoti sleeping in a tree.

We were checked in

and fed lunch before being taken to our cabin.

We have stayed in a lot of places around the world. This was one of the most beautiful rooms anywhere ever.

And what a view!

While we relaxed for a bit, Eric sent up the drone for some pics.

We hung out and enjoyed a peaceful sunset.

Having had such a late lunch we had a late, light dinner before heading to bed early. We were scheduled for an early morning snorkel. After breakfast in the morning, we joined Rafael and some other guests for our briefing. Unfortunately it poured rain during the entire briefing which scared away one of the couples. The rest of us jumped on the limo and headed for the beach. It was a bit of a rough 45 minute crossing to Caño Island where we joined a bunch of other boats.

Unfortunately the snorkeling was not great. With the turbulent sea, there was too much stirred up silt to see a lot. After about 45 minutes we gave up, and the boat took us to the island’s beach for a fresh fruit snack. The beach was teeming with tourists.

It was also crawling with tiny hermit crabs.

After a respite the boat returned for us.

On our second snorkel we were blessed by visits from four sea turtles. Unfortunately I do no have an underwater camera, so no photos of them. The journey back to the lodge was not nearly as tumultuous as the journey out. We arrived back in time for another late lunch. We spent the afternoon lounging and exploring the property.

The central resort area had two dining areas: one for breakfast and another for evening drinks or dinner some nights.

It was all beautifully landscaped with ornamentals including this stunning Bamboo Orchid, a ground orchid that prefers full sun, high humidity, and well-drained soil. It has slender, reed-like stems that resemble bamboo and can grow up to 6 feet tall and cattleya-like fragrant flowers that that are typically light pink to white with a vibrant magenta or purple lip. 

Another interesting flower was this Crinum Lily, characterized by large, strappy green leaves with burgundy or purple variegation and showy, fragrant white flowers with spidery petals and pinkish-red anthers.  This plant thrives in full sun to partial shade and prefers consistently moist to wet soil, making it suitable for bogs or water gardens.  All parts of the Crinum plant are poisonous if ingested, and the sap can cause skin irritation. 

At the start of the path between the road and our cabin we found a Golden Silk Spider, also commonly known as a golden silk orb-weaver or banana spider.  These spiders are large with orange and brown bodies and distinctive black and yellow markings. They are famous for constructing very large, strong webs that have a golden sheen in the sunlight. 

We were visited right outside our cabin by a Rough Green Snake. They have bright green skin that provides excellent camouflage against leaves and branches. These snakes are typically non-venomous, harmless to humans, and are excellent climbers that spend most of their time in trees and bushes.

Rough Green Snakes primarily feed on insects, spiders, and other small invertebrates.

After another early breakfast the following morning, we embarked on our last hike in Costa Rica. We told our guide Jose and the other two couples hiking with us that despite two weeks in Costa Rica we had only seen one of the supposedly ubiquitous toucans, and that was from a distance. We requested all to keep a careful eye out for us. We were advised that the trail was quite muddy from the previous day’s rain, so we donned boots.

As we descended the path toward the beach, the first thing Jose pointed out to us was this Garlic Tree,  a massive, long-lived, endemic tree found in Costa Rica’s tropical forests, particularly in the Osa Peninsula. Known for its strong garlic odor emitted from its yellow flowers, it is a key component of the rainforest ecosystem, often pollinated by bats.

Once down on the beach our search for birds began. First sighting was a male Black-throated Trogon, a medium-sized bird with a brilliant metallic green back, head, and upper breast. These birds are typically found in the understory of humid forests in Central and South America. The male has a black face and throat, a prominent blue or pale eyering, and a bright yellow belly. 

Through the scope from the back, he looks like a completely different bird. Its long tail is distinctive, featuring a dark blue-green top side and intricate black-and-white barring underneath. 

The female black-throated Trogons often have more muted coloring like brown or grey. These birds are often seen perching midway up trees, waiting to catch insects or forage for fruit. 

Next we found a Gray-headed Chachalaca, a medium-sized bird belonging to the Cracidae family. They have brownish-gray plumage on their back, a paler chest, a small head, and a long tail. 

Chachalacas are typically found in the treetops of humid forests and second-growth habitats in Central America and northwestern Colombia

They are social, often seen in small flocks, and known for being very noisy, especially at dawn and dusk.  Their diet consists primarily of fruits, seeds, and occasionally insects. 

We then found a bananquit, a very common species in the Caribbean. They are small, about 4 inches long, with a yellow chest, black upperparts, and a bold white line above the eye. These birds are nectarivores, often piercing the base of flowers to steal nectar, and they also eat fruit. 

A bit far away (not my best picture) we saw a White-tipped dove, a plump, shy, ground-dwelling bird found from South Texas to Argentina, known for its distinct, hollow “ooo-wooooo” call that sounds like blowing over a bottle. Unlike other doves, they are surprisingly aggressive, often chasing rivals while foraging. They are year-round residents with a 9-year lifespan, often feeding on fallen fruits and seeds.

All around on the ground, very active, was a group of Great-tailed Grackles , the one I caught on camera was a male, distinguished by his iridescent black feathers and long, prominent tail. They are highly social, adaptable birds frequently seen foraging in urban areas, parks, and near farms. Their diet is highly varied, consisting of grains, insects, lizards, and small mammals. They are common year-round residents in South and Central America, including the Caribbean.

The Common Black Hawk is a striking, stocky, and largely black raptor often found near water in the southwestern U.S., Mexico, and Central America, characterized by its bright yellow legs, broad wings, and a distinctive single white band on its tail. They specialize in hunting crabs, fish, and frogs, frequently wading in shallow water to catch prey.

Flitting about and tough to catch on camera was this Social Flycatcher, a species common in the Americas. Known for its bright yellow underparts, dark wings, and a distinctive white stripe above the eye, it is frequently found in open woodlands, forest edges, gardens, and near human habitation. It is highly social, often foraging in groups and nesting in colonies. It primarily eats insects caught in flight but also feeds on berries and small fruits. 

Nearby we found its cousin, a Grey-capped Flycatcher, a small passerine bird from the tyrant flycatcher family. Unlike similar flycatchers like the Social Flycatcher, this species lacks a strong, striped head pattern.  It features a distinctive grey head, a white throat, and bright yellow underparts. They are often found in pairs or small groups near forest edges and gardens. 

One of the women in the group was asking about these funny shaped flowers strewn all over the beach. Jose told us they are from the Pseudobombax septenatum tree, often referred to as a barrigón. The tree is native to tropical regions in Central and South America. These flowers are temporary, lasting only a few days before falling. These flowers typically appear when the tree is deciduous, making the flowers highly visible.. but the tree was pretty barren looking 

The next bird we spied was a Blue-gray Tanager, a common South American songbird also found in parts of the Caribbean. They are known for their pale gray and bluish plumage and often feed on fruit. This species is very adaptable and frequently seen in gardens and urban areas. 

For variety we focused a moment on a butterfly, specifically a Banded Peacock butterfly, with dark brown or black wings with distinct white bands and red markings near the body.  Their wingspan typically measures between 2.0 and 2.75 inches. 

The Banded Peacock butterfly are commonly found in moist areas, such as near rivers, in subtropical climates. They are native to Central America, Mexico, and southern Texas.

Brunellia costarincensis, a plant native to Costa Rica, but more commonly found at higher elevations, is a harbinger of the dry season.

Coyol palm, a species of palm native to the tropical regions of the Americas, is widely known for producing a traditional alcoholic beverage called taberna, made from the fermented sap of the tree. Locally taberna is called cyol wine and is a common drink of the campesinos (peasants). It is said if one gets drunk the night before on coyol wine and goes to work in the sun, one is drunk again by the afternoon.

We saw yet another Jesus Christ lizard. I have said enough on them already.

The seed pod of the Mucuna vine, commonly known as a velvet bean or sea bean, have a dense, velvety covering of hairs that can cause severe skin irritation if touched. Mucuna plants are found in various tropical environments, including jungles in Central and South America. They grow on woody vines in tropical and subtropical regions. 

This next beauty is a male Scarlet-rumped Tanager, one of which we had seen in Arenal. Their diet consists mainly of fruits and arthropods. These birds are commonly found at forest edges, clearings, and second-growth areas in Central America. 

A spiral ginger features a striking red, cone-shaped inflorescences comprised of overlapping bracts. The stems grow in a distinct spiraling pattern. These plants thrive in tropical environments and are often grown for their ornamental beauty. 

Often called the insulin plant, the spiral ginger provides significant medicinal benefits, including blood sugar regulation for diabetics, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. Traditionally the spiral ginger has also been used locally for cramps both gastrointestinal and those suffered by women, eg period or postpartum cramps. The flower emerges from the bracts.

Banana plants, which are actually the world’s largest herbaceous flowering plant, are not trees, as they lack woody stems and are composed of tightly packed, succulent leaves. They grow up to 25 feet tall from an underground corm, with leaves that can reach 9 feet in length. They can grow up to 5 feet in a single day. The fruit grows in clusters or bunches on a stalk that emerges from the center of the plant.   The green bananas shown are the female flowers that have been fertilized; the purple bud at the bottom contains male flowers that typically do not develop into fruit. 
Banana blossoms (the purple bud) are edible and often prepared like artichokes in many tropical regions. After fruiting, the main stem dies, but the plant produces new, genetically identical pups (shoots) from the underground root system.

Hiding in the trees we can barely make out a Black-hooded Antshrike, a fascinating, skulking bird endemic to the Pacific coast of Costa Rica and Panama. Despite their striking appearance, they are notoriously difficult to spot, preferring to stay hidden in dense undergrowth. They are known for being very sluggish foragers, sometimes pausing for up to 30 seconds to scan for prey. They move slowly through vine tangles and dense vegetation, often in the lower to mid-story of the forest. Like other antshrikes, they have a heavy, slightly hooked bill (similar to a true shrike) used to probe and tear apart dead leaves to find insects. Their song is described as a loud, accelerating, dry “chuckle” that rises in pitch and ends with a longer, raspy note. They occasionally follow army ant (Eciton) swarms to catch insects, spiders, and other arthropods that are flushed out by the ants.

I just had to include this next picture because I so love the beach vibe.

There were lots of coconuts fallen from the trees scattered along the path. Many were growing new trees. Jose told us the roots develop downward first before the leaves pop out. Coconut trees, often called the “tree of life,” can live up to 100 years, growing up to 100 feet tall while producing 50–180 coconuts annually. Technically a drupe rather than a nut, coconuts can float thousands of miles to propagate. Nearly every part of the plant is usable, from food and water to crafting, building materials, and fuel. The leaves look solid is this baby,

but as the tree grows, the leaves separate into the fronds which we are used to seeing.

We had hiked to the Rangers’ station where we signed in, paid our park entry fee, and were checked for food and plastics. The flag of Costa Rica flies out front.

There we found yet another male Jesus Christ lizard. I include him because he has such an impressive crest.

The beach at the station is beautiful. We all had to take off our shoes and socks (and yes, even the boots because of the depth) to cross a small river to continue our hike on the other side.

Once our feet were dried and clad, we found a Red Passion Flower, a vibrant vine native to Central and South America. It is easily recognized by its bright red flowers with long petals and a central white filament structure. The flower is designed to attract pollinators such as hummingbirds and butterflies. 

The passion flower thrives as an understory vine in rainforests, often growing along the ground or climbing up surrounding vegetation. It produces small, edible fruits similar in size to a grape. 

We found a Black-hooded Antshrike sitting on her nest. They build a “roomy” open cup nest made of fine rootlets and fibers, which they attach with spiderwebs to horizontal branches

The beach is full of  beach almond trees providing shade over the sandy shore.  Beach almond trees are highly valued for their ability to thrive in sandy soil and tolerate salt spray, making them ideal for coastal environments. These trees are commonly found in tropical coastal areas, known for their large, sprawling branches and wide leaves.

The trees produce fruits containing an edible seed, often referred to as “Indian almond” or “tropical almond”.

Macaws love to eat the beach almonds.

Jose pointed out some Tent-making bats, identifiable by the white stripes on their faces.  These bats are typically found in tropical and subtropical regions of Central and South America.  They are nocturnal mammals that primarily feed on fruit and nectar. 

Tent-making bats are known for chewing the midribs of large leaves, causing them to bend downward and form a “tent” for shelter. 

A herd of wild pigs was crashing through the forest. We could only get glimpses of them through the trees. But one stopped and poked his nose toward us. Jose warned us to stay quiet because they can be known to be aggressive. Wild pigs in Costa Rica are not true pigs but a distinct family (Tayassuidae) that split 40 million years ago. Known as “skunk pigs” for their pungent scent glands, they are social creatures vital to forest health, often spotted in national parks like Corcovado. We did not get close enough to get a whiff.

So little was in bloom in the forest this time of year that I was drawn to every bit of color. A vine common to the tropical environment is the Fridericia rego plant.  The purple, tubular flowers are characteristic of this genus.

We spied another golden silk orb-weaver spider. While they are large, they are generally not dangerous to humans; their bites are typically mild and only cause localized pain. They are typically found in forests and wooded areas throughout tropical and subtropical regions, including the Caribbean.

We made our way back to the ranger staton for a break. Outside the building is a magnificent Red Ginger, a vibrant tropical plant commonly used in landscaping. that is not native to Costa Rica. This perennial features showy, bright red bracts that hold small white flowers. They thrive in warm, moist climates, preferring well-drained soil and partial shade. 

The Tropical Kingbird is a highly visible,, and vocal resident in Costa Rica, easily identified by its bright yellow belly, grayish head, and forked tail. They are known as fearless “tyrant flycatchers” that aggressively defend their territory from larger birds like hawks and owls.

While primarily insectivores, the Tropical Kingbird also feed on small fruits, particularly during cooler weather. During breeding season, they perform “butterfly-like” flight displays and emit soft calls to maintain their pair bonds.  Females build open-cup nests, often in the canopy or mid-story, and are solely responsible for incubation. They are thriving in Costa Rica, with a global population estimated at 200 million, often increasing in areas where forest has been cleared for agriculture.

Jose pointed out the fruit pods of a Pachira aquatica, commonly known as a Money Tree or Guiana Chestnut. The large, reddish-brown pods contain seeds that are edible when roasted, boiled, or fried.The Money Tree is a tropical wetland tree native to Central and South America and, in many cultures, believed to bring good luck, prosperity, and wealth, often sold as an indoor houseplant. 

Our final find of the hike was a male Orange-collared Manakin, a small, plump bird, approximately 10 cm in length, with a distinctive bright orange throat and collar contrasting with a black head, back, and wings.  This species is endemic to the forests and secondary growth of Costa Rica and western Panama. They primarily feed on small fruits and berries found in the forest understory. Orange-collared Manakins are known for their elaborate courtship displays; the male often creates a snapping sound with its wings during mating rituals. 

As we crossed the beach toward lunch, Jose found a macaw munching on beach almonds., a great find. But alas, the tour was over, and we had yet to find a toucan.

After over 6 hours of hiking, we were famished and downed a hearty meal at the facility on the beach. We then lounged in the afternoon. We looked at the adults-only pool, which had very cold water,

and instead opted for the larger, warmer family pool. While we relaxed there we were entertained by a family of howler monkeys that were romping through the trees. Unfortunately they were too mobile and obscured to catch their images.

On our final morning as we descended to the beach for our return trip, a caoti was walking along the road in front of us.

We took a boat ride to Drake Bay. From there we were driven to the Drake Bay airport.

When we checked in for the flight, first our luggage was weighed, then our backpacks were weighed, then we were weighed with our backpacks! They are very strict about the amount of weight allowed on the plane.

The flight to San Jose lasted about 45 minutes.

We landed at the domestic terminal where we were handed our luggage directly off the plane before being escorted inside.

We were to fly home in the morning. We checked into our hotel for the night and found a casino across the street. Of course Eric had to investigate. And yes, there is a poker room, but no one was there playing.

We headed to dinner at dusk and heard the squawking of parrots. We had heard many during our hike in the forests, but had yet to catch one in a frame. We had been in the country for 2 weeks and had no parrot pics, and here on our last night right by the airport were hundreds coming in for the night. We watched and took videos for several minutes. They were White-eyed parakeets, medium-sized green parrots native to South America. They are known for the white bare skin around their eyes. They typically inhabit tropical and subtropical forests and are often found in small flocks. They feed on a diet consisting mainly of seeds, fruits, and berries

What a fitting final picture for our trip to Costa Rica.

One of the many things we loved about Costa Rica is their unofficial national slogan: Pura Vida, and you hear it everywhere.  It is used daily as a versatile, all-purpose phrase for greetings/farewells (hello/goodbye),  affirmation (everything is good), gratitude (thank you/you’re welcome), and as a way to downplay stress or misfortune. In 1956, a Mexican film titled “¡Pura Vida!” graced Costa Rica’s screens and became an instant hit. The film portrayed an eternally optimistic character who often used the phrase, even in challenging situations. Costa Ricans quickly embraced “Pura Vida” in the same spirit. The meaning of pura vida, of course, is “pure life,” and it’s come to symbolize the simple, cheerful outlook and lifestyle of what is often called the happiest country in the world.

Our trip to Costa Rica started with a delay of over an hour due to a flat tire on the plane requiring us to deplane after having already settled into our seats. We arrived in San Jose as the sun was setting and still had a drive through the Friday night traffic; it would take over three hours to reach La Fortuna, San Carlos in the Alajuela Province: our destination for the night. On our way out of town our driver pointed out 3 active volcanoes in the region and a coffee plantation. Costa Rica is a rugged, rain-forested Central American country with coastlines on the Caribbean and Pacific. Though its capital, San Jose, is home to cultural institutions like the Pre-Columbian Gold Museum, Costa Rica is known for its beaches, volcanoes, and biodiversity. Our first destination was the Arenal Conservation Area. It started raining while we were on the road. We were very happy to have a driver who knew the roads well as the visibility was limited at times. We reached the Arenal Moana Resort late and in the pouring rain. We had a quick dinner and went to bed anticipating our morning tour.

The rain continued in the morning. We were picked up and driven to Lake Arenal to begin our hike. Manmade, with a dam built between 1970 and 1973, Lake Arenal, which rests at the base of the volcano, supplies a high percentage of the country’s hydroelectric energy. At over 21 miles in length, Lake Arenal is the second largest lake in Central America. Prior to construction of the dam, there had been homes nearby. But an unexpected volcanic eruption in 1968 which lasted for several days killed many people and livestock, buried three villages, and ruined crops, properties, homes, and livelihoods. Since that time building in the area has been prohibited.

We met our local guide Martin, boarded our boat and headed across the lake.

As we drove across the lake, Martin explained to us that the mountain range here is part of the Continental Divide; we are on the Caribbean side of the divide. The second volcano in the area, The Chato Volcano, is inactive; it has not erupted in over 5000 years.

Despite the rain we passed a few birds; first a female Belted Kingfisher, a large, stocky, blue-gray bird with a shaggy crest on its head and a thick, pointed bill. The male would have orange on the chest. The species is native to North America and commonly found near clear water bodies like rivers, lakes, and shorelines. They feed primarily on fish, which they catch by diving headfirst into the water. Their presence is often announced by a distinctive, loud rattling call. 

We also passed a large flock of Snow Egrets, Great Egrets, and Cormorants which often are found cohabitating.

We climbed out of the boat onto La Peninsula Trail of the Arenal Volcano National Park. The Arenal Volcano National Park is located within the much larger Arenal Conservation Area, which protects more than 500,000 acres of rain forest, rivers, lakes and old volcanic lava fields. This area contains a great wealth of geologic and biological complexity. The volcano itself is approximately 5,500 feet high and has gone through several eruptive cycles. Within the national park, short trails pass through secondary forest as well as lava fields from previous eruptions. On land we were greeted by a large guava tree.

Martin pointed out t a concrete marker which indicates the maximum reservoir level. ICE refers to the Instituto Costarricense de Electricidad, the state-owned entity responsible for electricity and telecommunications, a crucial public utility providing nearly 100% renewable energy and telecom services under the Grupo ICE umbrella. It is a major national institution founded in 1949, vital for the country’s clean energy model and infrastructure. 

Martin pointed out a bromeliads leaf, a family of plants with many species of which the pineapple is one. The leaves of this one have a large hollow base which catches water which animals can drink in dry times. Monkeys eat the white part of the leaf.

We then saw an agouti eating the stem of a palm tree. Agoutis are the largest rodents in Costa Rica. Their diet consists of fruits, seeds, shoots, leaves, and nuts. Known as nature’s gardeners, they aid in seed dispersal by burying seeds for later consumption and then forget where they have been left. When alarmed, they may thump their hind feet, erect their rump hairs, or run away with high-pitched barks. 

Along the hike we had several views of Lake Arenal.

Martin then pointed out a trumpet tree from the genus Cecropia, commonly known as guarumo in Central America. Common names include trumpet tree, snakewood, and tree-of-laziness, as sloths are often spotted in their branches, centered below. Cecropia species are fast-growing, dioecious trees found throughout the Neotropics. They are considered pioneer plants, often the first trees to grow in clearings caused by deforestation or fire, helping to regenerate vegetation. 

Sloths will eat many leaves, but the leaves of the Cecropia are their favorite.

The squirrels love the fruits of the Cecropia.

The Cecropia trees have hollow, branched stems.

The trees have a symbiotic relationship with ants. The axillary buds are full of glucose on which the ants feed. The ants live inside the hollows of the trunk and branches making the tree uninhabitable to other plants like orchids and vines, thus saving the tree from parasites.

At this point we were treated to another view of Lake Arenal.

Martin pointed out an abandoned termite nest and explained that once abandoned they are often used by birds such as Parrots and Kingfishers for nesting.

Martin showed us a kohleria spicata, a flower favored by hummingbirds and pollinator bees.

He also showed us a pair of Scarlet-rumped Tanagers. The two birds in the image display the species’ distinct sexual dimorphism:  The bird on the right is a female, characterized by her olive-brown tones and a bluish-white bill. The bird on the left is a male, which has glossy black plumage and a bright scarlet-red lower back and rump. Tanagers primarily feed on fruits, insects, and small arthropods. This species is a resident breeder in the Pacific lowlands of Costa Rica and western Panama. They are fairly common in humid tropical lowlands, favoring forest edges and plantations. 

As we left the forrest we found a hawk high up in a tree.

As we left La Penninsula Trail and boarded our van to drive to the Coladas Trail we saw a White-nosed Caoti. In the Racoon family, Coatis have a long, flexible snout and strong claws, which are well-adapted for foraging for food in crevices and holes. They are omnivores, eating everything from fruit to small animals like mice and lizards. The species typically weighs between8.8–13.2 lb and can reach a nose-to-tail length of about 3.6 ft. They use their long, semi-prehensile tails for balance. 

We embarked on the Coladas Trail, which includes areas that were once destroyed by volcanic activity and are now in the process of regeneration. There we found an “armored” caterpillar of the silk moth family known for their striking appearance: covered in spines and bristles. The bristles are urticating hairs, which means they can cause adverse skin reactions or stings if touched. 

We hiked about three quarters of a mile to the pinnacle of the trail which was formed by relatively recent lava flows. From the end of the trail we were supposed to have a great view of the Arenal Volcano. But alas, it was completely engulfed in clouds. We had hiked in the rain and received no reward for our efforts, bummer. I did like the sign one does not see just anywhere. Although volcanic activity has decreased since 2010 and is now mostly fumarolic with occasional phreatic eruptions at the top of the mountain – this means there are no lava flows – hiking up close to the crater remains dangerous.

On our way back we saw a banderita Española, a plant common as a first settler after a catastrophic deforestation like lava. Martin explained the difference in primary forests, ie old growth forest with large trees at least 400 years old versus secondary forests, which are those found after catastrophic events including fires. This area had been a primary forest until the 1968 volcanic eruption; the previous eruption had been 1592.

Along the hike back we were treated to a female Great Curassow, more on them later.

We also saw a Yellow-rumped Cacique. Key characteristics of this species include: They build unique, hanging woven nests and are widely distributed across northern South America. They have mainly black plumage with a sharp yellow rump and a pale, ivory-colored beak. A distinctive feature is their striking, sky-blue eyes. These birds are highly social, often seen in flocks, and are known for being accomplished mimics. (The dots on the picture are rain drops. Yes, it was still raining.)

Martin showed us a Mimosa pudica, commonly known as the sensitive plant, sleepy plant, or touch-me-not. It is a creeping annual or perennial flowering plant native to South and Central America. Its fern-like leaves are famous for rapidly folding inward and drooping when touched, shaken, or exposed to heat. This movement is a defense mechanism to deter herbivores and protect the plant from potential harm. The leaves are prickly to the touch. The plant may also produce small, spherical, pink, or purple flowers during its growing season. 

Back at our resort Arenal Manoa the bellhop pointed out a resident sloth high up in the tree. We had hiked in the forest all morning and not seen one.

The rain continued all afternoon but finally broke in the late evening long enough for us to head into the small town of La Fortuna. We strolled around a bit before treating ourselves to a large steak dinner.

After breakfast we were driven to Mistico Hanging Bridges, a privately owned reserve containing about 2 miles of trails which include eight fixed bridges and 5 hanging bridges, which are between 160 – 330 feet long and 10-150 high, all which were designed to blend with the natural environment, leaving the forest virtually intact. From their website: “Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park encompasses a unique fusion of several different ecosystems that promote high biodiversity in plant and animal species. Located between the edges of two forest types, the region integrates both highland and lowland landscapes into one beautiful and unique vegetation strip.”

Before reaching Mistico we passed Lake Arenal and found perched there a Yellow-headed Caracara, a bird of prey belonging to the falcon family. It is found in tropical and subtropical regions from Central America south to northern Argentina and Uruguay.  Unlike most raptors, it is omnivorous and often scavenges for food. Adults have a pale, buffy head and underparts with dark brown wings and back. 

Upon arrival at Mistico our group of 10 was met with our guide Mey. At the entrance of the trails were stone statues created by the Chorotega, ancient inhabitants of Guanacaste using advanced techniques. The works reflect their rich culture and beliefs and are a testament to their artistic skill and deep connection with nature.

Our first sighting was a a Chestnut-mandibled Toucan, a subspecies of the Yellow-throated Toucan. Their diet is omnivorous, consisting of fruits, insects, and small animals. It is one of the largest toucan species, known for its bright yellow throat and dark, chestnut-colored lower mandible. The species is found in tropical jungles from Honduras south into northern South America. They typically travel in small flocks within the forest canopy. Mey told us there are 6 species of toucan in the park, and they mostly eat wild fruit. She also told us that toucans prefer cloudy, rainy days (did I mention it is still raining?) because their black bodies absorb too much heat on sunny days.

Next we saw St. Mary of the Angels or “La Virgin de los Ángeles.” According to tradition, la negrita is a small about 3 inches representation of the Virgin Mary found in August 1635 by a native woman named Juana Pereira. As the story goes, when she tried to take the statuette with her, it miraculously reappeared twice back where she had found it. The townspeople then built a shrine around the statue. In 1824, the Virgin was declared Costa Rica’s patroness saint. La negrita, composed of jade, volcanic stone, and graphite, now resides on a gold, jewel-studded platform at the main altar in the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles in Cartago.

Stachytarpheta cayennensis is a species of flowering plant in the verbena family known by many common names, including blue snakeweed, Cayenne snakeweed, dark-blue snakeweed, bluetop, nettle-leaf porterweed, rattail. This plant has some uses in traditional medicine. Several Latin American peoples recognize extracts of the plant as a treatment to ease the symptoms of malaria. The boiled juice or a tea made from the leaves or the whole plant is taken to relieve fever and other symptoms. It is also used for dysentery, pain, and liver disorders. Here its primary purpose is for the hummingbirds.

Mey pointed out a 300 year-old ficus tree.

We found a a Broad-billed Motmot (It was actually our second Motmot of the day, but we did not get a good photo of the first.) The broad-billed motmot is a fairly common Central and South American bird. They are nonmigratory, sedentary birds that are most frequently seen in singles or pairs. There exist six subspecies of the broad-billed motmot. At about 12 inches long, the broad-billed motmot is one of the smallest members of the family. They have dark eyes and feet. Most of its upper body, including its head, neck and chest, is a cinnamon-rufous color. There is a black patch on either side of its head that covers the cheeks and auricular area, as well as one on the centre of its chest. The lower half of its body is more greenish above and becomes more bluish below. The broad-billed motmot has a long tail that gradually changes from blue to black. It also has two racquet-shaped central feathers which are much longer than the rest. As its name suggests, the broad-billed motmot has a broad, flattened bill. Its bill is black, has serrated edges, and has a keel on the upper mandible. This species does not demonstrate sexual dimorphism, which means that both the male and female look alike. This bird resides in humid forests, warm lowlands and foothills, and is found at elevations below 3,000 ft. The broad-billed motmot’s diet consist mainly of insects and their larvae as well as some small vertebrates such as snakes, frogs, and lizards. Unlike other species of the Momotidae family, broad-billed motmots do not consume fruits.

Mey pointed out a kapok tree, often referred to as the “Broccoli Tree” due to its distinctive, symmetrical crown when viewed from below. The tree is known for its cotton-like fluff from seed pods, which are used for stuffing. 

Mey found a brown viper which she enlarged for us through her scope. There are 5 species of viper in the park, all of which are poisonous. This one has been coming to this same tree for 5 years, making him easy to find.

By this point on the trail we had crossed several fixed bridges, and now we came to our first hanging bridge.

I was not a huge fan of them; I had to have both hands holding on at all times. I would wait until my group was mostly across before attempting to cross so I would not have to stop along the way.

Eric, on the other hand, traversed with no problem.

Mey pointed out the “monkey vine,” with its distinctive curly shape, so named because the monkeys use the vines to travel from tree to tree. Unfortunately, due to the rain, we did not spot any monkeys.

Even looking back at the bridges we had passed and seeing how high they were made me anxious.

We took a side path to view the Blue Morpho Waterfall.

Mey pointed out a “walking palm” tree so nicknamed because it has roots grow on the outside in the direction toward the sun, then will release the roots on the shady side from the ground; the tree appears to “walk” toward the sun over time.

We then found another Broad-billed Motmot. Motmots nest by excavating long tunnels in earthen banks, road cuts, or occasionally termite mounds. They are cavity nesters that create, rather than build with twigs, burrowing tunnels 5–14 feet long with a nesting chamber at the end.

Mey also found for us an Eyelash Viper, a venomous pit viper native to Central and South America, so named because of its distinctive modified scales above its eyes that resemble eyelashes. These scales protects its eyes as it moves through the trees.  Like other vipers, it is venomous and should be treated with caution. The snake is arboreal (tree-dwelling) and highly variable in color, up to 10, which aids in camouflage.  But unlike a chameleon, it is born a single color which it remains for life. Adults typically range from 20 to 31 inches in length. 

Mey also found a baby eyelash viper. She explained that the babies’ venom is actually more dangerous to humans than that of the adults because they have not yet learned that we are not edible, so they waste too much of their venom trying to immobilize us to no avail.

I particularly liked this variety of Heliconia plant. Heliconias are large herbs closely related to bananas and are known for their vibrant, unique inflorescences (flower heads). The colorful parts are actually bracts (modified leaves) that protect the true flowers inside. Hummingbirds are the primary pollinators of Heliconias in the Americas, attracted by the abundant nectar and the specific color and shape of the flowers. 

The “Dragon’s Blood” tree is prized for its red sap which has antiseptic properties and is used in healing. This tree has been scraped for its sap by so many people that the park had to erect a “Do Not Touch” sign.

A flower we saw often on our walk was the vibrant red ginger flower, also known as ostrich plume or pink cone ginger. It is a quintessential tropical bloom, known for its bold, architectural, and vibrant form. The actual flowers are small and white, emerging from the top of the showy red bracts (modified leaves) that form the cone shape. We saw a few remnants of these, but they had mostly been knocked off by the heavy rains. The plant is native to Malaysia but is widely found in tropical regions, including Costa Rica. It is a popular perennial herb used for both ornamental purposes and sometimes to flavor cooking. 

Mey was a bit disappointed that the rain had kept all the monkeys away. The park is home to howler, white-faced and spider monkeys. Howler monkeys are considered the loudest land animals in the world with calls reaching up to 140 decibels, equivalent to a jet engine taking off, and audible from three miles away, and yet we heard none. 

As we headed back to the resort for lunch, the sun started to peak out. After lunch we took the break in the rain as an opportunity to explore the resort a bit. We found the hot springs.

The waters are heated geothermally by the Arenal Volcano.

Our resort has a total of 8 pools plus a waterfall.

The landscaping around the pool is gorgeous. We found a male scarlet-rumped tanager sitting on a Heliconia. 

Having been wet all morning, we were not anxious to jump in. Apparently we wer not alone in this thought as the pools were mostly empty.

The entire property has gorgeous gardens.

There are many species of Heliconias.

Each room is actually a little villa. Our entrance from the road was hidden until

we followed a path to our room.

Our afternoon adventure was a trip to the Sloth Observation Conservatory. Of course, the rain had started up again. We were met by our guide Steve who explained that in is unlawful to cut down trees along the Lava River which makes this property along the river with its very tall trees a perfect habitat for sloths plus they can move back and forth across the river. Sloths live mostly in the trees. They generally sleep for 20 hours a day because it takes them so long to digest their food, they need to conserve energy. They must leave the tree to defecate, which they do only once a week, generally only at night. When they are on the ground they are vulnerable to predators which include pumas, boas, and hawks. Although they leave the tree to defecate, they give birth in the tree. Sloths are herbivores and eat many types of leaves, but they like those of the Cecropia tree the best. There are two species of sloths in Costa Rica: the two-toed sloth with a pointier nose, and a three-toed sloth with a rounder, smiley-looking face, the latter is the one most often characterized in advertisements. Having told us all of this about the sloths, Steve went on to explain that they are nocturnal and generally hard to find during the day.

Our first encounter was with a pair of Great Curassows. The bird on the left is a female, and the one on the right is a male.  Great curassows are large, pheasant-like birds native to the Neotropical rainforests, ranging from eastern Mexico to northwestern Ecuador. They are the largest of the pheasant/turkey family. They are often seen on the forest floor, but also feed in trees. Males are typically glossy black with a distinctive yellow knob on their bill and a curly crest, while females can exhibit rufous, barred, or black color morphs. The female in the image is a rufous morph. They are large, robust birds, with males weighing around 8.8 lbs. The species is rarely found outside of protected areas due to over-hunting. 

I had a picture of a female above, but her head is so beautiful, I am including a closeup here.

And here is a better picture of the male revealing his distinctive yellow knob.

As we ventured down the path we immediately found a two-toed sloth in the typical sleeping position.

But this guy was not asleep!

Steve was very excited as the sloth started to move. He kept telling us how very unusual it is to see a two-toed sloth this active in the afternoon. We stayed for several minutes and took several videos, which unfortunately are not compatible with this blog format.

We saw a busy colony of leaf-cutter ants. Steve explained that they are known for their extensive foraging trails where they carry leaf pieces to their massive underground nests. They are considered nature’s farmers, demonstrating advanced agriculture by growing their own food source. They don’t eat the leaves; they use them as mulch to grow a specific fungus, their actual food source. Colonies have distinct roles, with soldiers guarding and workers foraging and tending the fungus. They are recognizable by their long, clean lines of ants carrying leaf pieces many times their body weight. In the picture below find the little green dots that start in the lower right-hand corner and extends past the upper edge of the large, prominent brown leaf to the base of the tree.

And we saw yet another variety of Heliconia.

Next we found a Hoffmann’s Woodpecker. This individual appears to be a female, as it lacks the red crown patch found on males. They are resident birds found along the Pacific slope from southwestern Honduras to central Costa Rica. They are common in open woodlands, forest edges, gardens, and urban areas. 

And we found a Rufous-tailed Jacamar. It is known for its iridescent green upper parts and rufous (reddish-brown) underparts and tail. The bird is typically around 10 inches long. The bird is an aerial hunter, using its distinctive long, sharp bill to catch flying insects like butterflies, dragonflies, and wasps mid-flight. This species is common in Costa Rica and can be found from southern Mexico down to southern Brazil and Ecuador. They typically perch upright on exposed branches or vines at mid-height in forest edges and clearings. 

We crossed yet another hanging bridge, the sixth for the day.

When we returned to our resort, our resident sloth was high up in its tree doing what sloths do best: sleeping.

After a delicious sushi dinner by the pool, despite the rain, we called it a night.

In the morning it was time to say goodbye to La Fortuna withour ever having seen the volcano for which the area is named. And yes, it was still raining. We joined a bunch of other folks on a boat for the Lake Arenal crossing.

Today not only we but also our luggage were to get wet.

The views from the boat were nonexistent.

The highlight was the visit from this Owl butterfly, so named because of the markings that resemble an owl’s eye, a defense mechanism to fake predators.

Once on the other side of the lake we all boarded a bus headed to Monteverde, which sits at a high elevation in the Tilarán Mountains, generally ranging from about 4,600 to 5,900 feet above sea level, creating its famous cool, misty cloud forest climate and high biodiversity. After a couple of hours we made a pit stop in this cute cafe that actually encouraged graffiti; we all signed.

We were dropped off at our new accommodations: Böëna Monteverde Lodge and Gardens.

We had a lovely spacious room with a balcony that purportedly had a view, but forest growth had blocked it mostly. But the lodge had some really warm and comfy places to lounge.

We were picked up in the evening for our night tour of the forrest. Our guide for the evening was Carlos who told us there are over 940 species of birds in Costa Rica, including migratory ones, which represents over 10% of the world’s species in one tiny country. The reason is Costa Rica is a country with multiple ecosystems (rainforests, cloud forests, coasts, wetlands) packed closely together. Of course for us it was still raining, which is a detraction for the wildlife as well as for us. But we did manage to see a Lesson’s Motmot, also known as the blue-diademed motmot. It has a vibrant blue crown with a distinct black central patch. There are 6 species of Motmot in Costa Rica: the Lesson’s Motmot is the only one found at Monteverde’s high elevation.

Next Carlos spotted a Side-striped palm-pit viper, a venomous snake found in Central America. Adults typically average between 60 and 70 cm in length, with a thin body and a well-differentiated head. It is known for its vibrant green coloration and a yellow-white stripe running along its side, which helps it camouflage in tropical foliage. This species is arboreal (tree-dwelling) and a master of ambush. It is native to the mountainous rainforests of Costa Rica and western Panama. 

Carlos explained that in general the way to distinguish a poisonous snake from one that is not is by the shape of the head. A poisonous snake will have a flattened, somewhat heart-shaped head while a nonvenomous snake will have a thinner, pointy head.

Next Carlos spotted a rhinoceros katydid, a species of conehead katydid found in Central America. Like many members of its family, this species is omnivorous, feeding on insects, snails, lizards, berries, foliage, and seeds. It is known for the distinctive, long, horn-like projection on its head, which it uses to fight other males or deter predators. This one, however is a female, which can be discerned by the long tail through which she lays her eggs; males have no tail. These katydids can grow up to 3 inches in length. They are nocturnal insects. 

Carlos showed us a 400 year-old strangler ficus (fig) tree, proof that this is a primary forrest.

He explained to us that strangler figs begin their life as epiphytes in the canopy of a host tree. Over time, they send roots down to the forest floor, which thicken and eventually envelop and outcompete the host tree for resources and sunlight. The host tree eventually dies and decays, leaving the hollow, intricate structure of the fig tree. The picture below is looking up into the hollow of the strangler ficus.

We found several Brown Jays sleeping in the trees. Carlos told us that birds generally sleep on the out branches of trees so if a predator ascends the trunk, the bird should feel the vibrations, awaken, and fly away. With the heavy winds accompanying the rains, the birds will sleep poorly not being able to differentiate the source of the vibrating branches.

Another guide with a group called us over to see a bark scorpion they had found using an ultraviolet light. Scorpions are arachnids and nocturnal predators that feed on insects and spiders. The venom of most scorpions found in Costa Rica is not lethal to humans; stings are generally comparable to a bee sting. There are 14 species of scorpions in Costa Rica.

 Scorpions are ancient creatures, with ancestors dating back around 435 million years. They are shy and tend to hide during the day, often found in wooded areas. The bark scorpion is named for its tendency to burrow into the barks of trees. However, without the aid of the ultraviolet light, it would be difficult to find even in bright light.

Carlos pointed out a Oleander hawkmoth caterpillar. These caterpillars are known for their bright, vibrant colors. They feed on oleander plants.

Carlos also found a baby leaf-mimic katydid. They often use crypsis, blending into their background to evade predators. Some species have detailed patterns, veins, and even “bite marks” on their wings to look like damaged or decaying leaves. 

The highlight for me of our night tour was our final find: a hummingbird nest with two babies in it. (I am not a huge fan of insects.) Carlos told us that hummingbirds, the smallest of the birds, have the smallest nests and the smallest eggs, about the size of a jellybean. Hummingbirds always lay 2 eggs about every 2 years and live only 4-5 years total.

We did not see much else that night. We headed back to our lodge to get dry and enjoy dinner.

Monteverde is a peaceful community made up of dairy farmers, naturalists and tourism service providers who have joined together to create a model for sustainable development and protection of the environment that is becoming known throughout the world. The town was founded in 1954 by a group of Quakers searching for a peaceful place to live; it is now home of Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve, which is where we met Carlos in the the morning, yes, still raining. The reserve was established in 1972 and named after a scientist George Powell who, while visiting the area, became concerned about conserving Monteverde’s rich biodiversity. Quakers in Monteverde also contributed to the creation of the reserve which encompasses great numbers of species. The Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve initially covered some 810 acres of forested land. Nowadays, its protective reach extends over 35,089 acres. Whereas the night prior on a private farm we had been at an altitude of about 4000 feet, the Cloud Forest Reserve is at about 5000 feet, a different microclimate. With over 8 miles of trails available for visitors to explore, we headed out.

Our first siting, which Carlos lined up in the viewfinder for us, was a Yellowish Flycatcher, a small passerine bird, meaning it has feet suitable for perching. It typically forages for insects, often flicking its tail upwards when perched. 

Next Carlos found for us a hummingbird sitting in her nest. We stopped and watched for a while, noting how territorial she behaved chasing off whenever another bird came near.

Carlos explained to us that trees in Costa Rica have no rings. There are no typical seasons of summer and winter, only the “dry” season (which we were in, ergo the quotes, because not so dry yet for us) and the rainy season. Trees grow prettty much continuously. Without a dormant period, no rings develop. Trees must be dated by carbon and size.

With little wildlife stirring in the rain, we focused on the flora. With only about 1-2% of the light reaching the forest floor, there is much competition for growth. We found a bush with a small red wild cherry: Jerusalem cherry, a type of shrub found in tropical and subtropical environments.  It is in the nightshade family, and, indeed, the berry smells like a tomato. Although the birds love the berries, it is ill-advised for humans to eat because ithey have an extremely strong laxative effect.  Carlos advised us that except for fungi, of which there are many extremely poisonous varieties found here in the cloud forest, there are no poisonous plants here, only ones with some bad side effects.

We crossed yet another hanging bridge; I was starting to get used to them.

Carlos pointed out the flower of the aptly named shrimp flower. The red shrimp plant is a common, vibrant, red-flowered plant in the Monteverde Cloud Forest, specifically adapted for pollination by hummingbirds. Is distinctive shape allows it to deposit pollen on the backs of feeding hummingbirds.

Although not a lot of plants are blooming this time of year in the forest, high up in a tree we spotted a wild species of hearty fuchsia, also known here as hummingbird fuchsia.

Monteverde sits right on the continental divide: the Caribbean is to the East, the Pacific to the West. Weather (ie rain) comes from both directions, which is what makes it a rain forest. (Although we are told it is generally a cloudy mist this time of year, not the pouring rain we have been experiencing). Cloud forests make up less than 1% of all forests on earth. We continued along the Heart of the Forest Trail.

Carlos showed us a baby ficus just beginning to strangle its host tree. In many years it will look like the one we saw the previous night.

The monkey tailed fern is also aptly named.

Carlos found a bunch of butterflies sleeping in the shelter of a hollow in a tree. Butterflies are cold blooded and prefer warmth; they do not fly in the cold rain.

These lianas are thick, woody vines that are rooted in the soil but climb up trees to reach sunlight in the canopy. They are a major structural component of tropical forests, often creating dense, tangled networks between trees. Lianas vines are called hanging bridges because monkeys use them to cross from tree to tree. Humanity has been inspired to use lianas in artisanal products to the point of reducing their presence in the forest. The Monteverde Cloud Forest Preserve is actively protecting them.

Hiding in a deep hole in the dirt we found a Costa Rican Orange Knee tarantula,  a large, striking, and relatively slow-growing tarantula endemic to Costa Rica, particularly found in the Monteverde Cloud Forest. Known for its dark abdomen and bright orange leg markings, this species is typically found on the forest floor, where it feeds as a nocturnal hunter. Generally considered docile, they may flee or flick urticating hairs from their abdomen if disturbed. Their venom is not considered medically significant to humans, although their bite can be painful.

At this point it is worth distinguishing endemic, as the above tarantula is to the Monteverde Rain forest, which means it is only found here, from indigenous, which means it originated here but also elsewhere. Which subject brings me to bromeliads and orchids. The majority of species of both plant families are epiphytes: plants that grows on another plant but are not parasitic, obtaining their nutrients from air and using the host plant, generally a tree, only for stability of structure. Monteverde is home to an extraordinary diversity of orchids, with over 500 species identified in the region, 34 of which are endemic to Monteverde. While few to no bromeliads or orchids were in bloom at the time of our visit, we could see literally thousands hanging from branches everywhere. This one branch has dozens of each (one lone bromeliad in bloom) plus moss.

After leaving the preserve trail we took a quick break.

Of the over 360 species of hummingbirds in the world, 54 species can be found in Costa Rica, most of which live in the Monteverde Cloud Forest. The preserve has set out feeders with sugar water, which apparently does not adversely affect the behavior or health in the wild, for the tourists. This area is called the Hummingbird Gallery.

There are 8 species which frequent the gallery. The most striking is this male Violet Sabrewing hummingbird, one of the largest hummingbirds found in Mexico and Central America, measuring 5.1 to 5.9 in in length.  They are known to be spectacular and aggressive birds. Males are known for their vibrant, metallic violet and blue plumage, with a contrasting green back and distinctive white tail patches. The species inhabits humid evergreen forests in highlands and foothills. 

Also stunningly beautiful is the male Green-crowned Brilliant hummingbird, commonly found in Costa Rica and Panama. It is a relatively large and slender hummingbird with a long, straight bill.  

The female Green-crowned Brilliant hummingbird has a green-spotted chest, a distinct white whisker mark, and a white spot behind the eye.

The male Green-crowned Brilliant hummingbird may also have an orange throat, whcih can be confusing.

Below on the right is the male Green-crowned Brilliant hummingbird sharing the feeder with a female Purple-throated Mountain-gem hummingbird; the females do not have the purple throat but instead have bright fluffy underparts, a black cheek, and a white line behind the eye.  (You can also see the raindrops in this picture.)

Next is a juvenile Magenta-throated woodstar hummingbird.  Males have a distinctive red throat (gorget), while females have white-tipped tail feathers and no red throat. 

Fun facts: Hummingbirds can fly forwards, backwards, and hover in mid-air.  The bird’s wings beat at high frequencies, creating the characteristic “humming” sound. 

The coppery-headed emerald humming bird is a small humming bird measuring only about 3 inches long and weighs about 0.1 ounce. It is one of only 3 species of birds endemic to costa Rica.

Green Violt-ear hummingbird is known for its iridescent green plumage and a prominent violet-blue patch behind the eye. The male flares these violet “ear” feathers during displays. 

We had managed to see 6 of the 8 species that frequent the feeders, and we were very cold and wet. We headed back to our lodge for a warm, dry meal and some rest. These tours started very early, which is not generally our preference.

When we woke in the morning the sun was shining! We were treated to a rainbow on our way to the next park.

We arrived at the Treetopia Park and were assigned a group and our morning guide: Sebastian. By the time we hit the trail, it was raining again.

Sebastian’s first find of the day for us was a male Purple-throated mountaingem. Males are distinguished by their bright purple throat, blue crown, and a white line behind the eye. This medium-sized hummingbird is found in the mountains of southern Nicaragua, northern Costa Rica, and western Panama, typically inhabiting forested areas and hilly terrains at altitudes from 2,600 to 8,200 feet. Sebastian reiterated what Carlos had said the day prior: hummingbirds are the only birds that can fly backwards. They eat twice their weight daily.

Our first hanging bridge of the day is also Costa Rica’s longest spanning 774 feet.

Sebastian also found us an orange-kneed tarantula, but he had a lot more to say on the subject. The female lives in the same hole, dug by someone else, for her entire life, which can be 20 years. She sits and waits for her food to come to her. She sleeps with only half of her brain at a time, so she is always alert. The male hunts outside the hole and has a life expectancy of only 4-5 years. He also hates the sun; he hunts at night. Although they have eyes, they use trichobothria, specialized, highly sensitive mechanosensory hairs on a tarantula’s legs and pedipalps that detect minute air currents and vibrations, often referred to as “hearing hairs,” to detect prey movement, avoid predators, and navigate by sensing air movements as small as 10 millionth of a millimeter.  They mate after the female is 4-5 years old. The male hands her a bag of sperm which she uses to self fertilize. She will lay thousands of eggs at a time, but then will eat some while waiting for other food to appear. Only 1% of the eggs hatch. The hatchlings spend only a few weeks in the nest before venturing out. All tarantulas in the world are venomous because they are all carnivores and use their venom to kill their prey which includes mammals as large as a rat. The tarantula in turn is prey to a wasp which also uses venom to paralyze the tarantula, digs a hole in its middle, and lays eggs there. The wasp eats the tarantula over the course of a month without killing it, starting first with the legs then finally the heart, which then finally kills it.

When asked about the many “bubbles” we saw on the trees, Sebastian responded that they are sap beetles, which surround themselves in a bubble of sap.

With irony Sebastian pointed out a strangler ficus strangling a fig tree, which is also in the ficus family. Figs are among the oldest known cultivated plants, with evidence of farming dating back roughly 11,000 years. Fig trees are fertilized exclusively by tiny fig wasps  in a specialized, interdependent relationship. A female wasp enters a fig’s small opening, pollinating its internal flowers while laying eggs, often losing her wings and antennae in the process. After laying eggs, the female wasp dies inside the fruit. He reassured us that figs we buy in the grocery store have been engineered and do not contain dead wasps nor their eggs.

Fig trees communicate within forest ecosystems primarily through an underground, interconnected network of mycorrhizal fungi, often referred to as the “wood-wide web”. Through this network, fig trees share resources like carbon, nutrients, and water, while sending warning signals regarding threats. It prevents them from all fruiting at the same time so animals will not decimate their fruit supply all at once.

Sebastian reiterated that there is no season of dormancy for the trees. Why, then does the following species of cacao tree have brown leaves on its tips? The answer is that the new growth comes in green first; it is a defense mechanism of the tree to protect its fruit from mammals like monkeys.

Sebastian pointed out an angel wing begonia, named for the shape of the leaves.

He jokingly told us when in doubt of the name of a plant, just look at it; most names reflect the appearance like this hot lips plant, a member of the coffee family

and this three flower lantana, A shrub in the verbena family that can grow up to 3 meters tall. It has small, fragrant, lavender-pink-purple flowers that bloom in clusters of three, followed by small purple berries.

The monkey tail fern, which we had seen before.

and the broccoli tree

Time to talk orchids. There are over 30,000 recognized species of orchid in the world, over 1,125 found in Costa Rica with over 800 in Monteverde. They represent one of the oldest flowering plant families, existing for roughly 100,000 years. They smell good despite the lack of nectar. They have developed highly specialized, sometimes deceptive, methods to attract specific insects for pollination.  Orchid seeds are minuscule, with one capsule containing up to 3 million seeds. The plants vary greatly in size ranging from tiny, nickel-sized blooms to plants weighing over one ton.

Sebastian showed us the platystele jungermannioides, purported smallest orchid in the world. It is pollinated by male mosquitoes. (Sebastian then took a moment to point out the relative lack of mosqutoes in the rain forest which is attributed to the nearly 60 species of bats living here.)

Most orchids are epiphytes, meaning they grow on other plants or trees for support rather than in soil.

The flower has identifying features: bilateral symmetry, 3 sepals, 2 petals, one lip (labellum: one of the petals is highly modified to serve as a specialized landing platform for pollinators), one column, and pollinia (waxy pollen masses. Instead of loose, powdery pollen, orchid pollen is aggregated into solid, waxy masses called pollinia. This adaptation ensures that a pollinator carries the entire pollen load at once, increasing the efficiency of cross-pollination).

Sapota (Sapodilla in English) is a sweet, brownish, tropical fruit is also referred to as naseberry, mudapple, or dilly in various regions. It has a grainy, brown, pear-like flesh and is commonly cultivated in India, Mexico, and Central America. It is generally not favored by humans because ripe it is mostly water and farely tasteless; the green fruit is a strong laxative.

The most dominant group of plants in the forest are ferns, which are also the third oldest group of plants and the oldest group of vascular plants on Earth, with a history spanning over 360 to 380 million years.

The second most dominant plant found in the forest are mosses which are the second oldest plants on Earth, with a history spanning approximately 400 to 450 million years. They were among the first organisms to transition from aquatic environments to colonize land. The oldest organism in the forest are the fungi and lichen. Lichen are a symbiotic, composite organism consisting of a fungus (the mycobiont) and algae or cyanobacteria (the photobiont).  Lichen fossils date back 600 million years.

Once our tour with Sebastian was completed, we were scheduled for the tram ride to the observatory at 6000 feet. We bravely got on the gondola.

The ride up was more scary than fun with basically no views except the dense clouds surrounding us. The wind was blowing so hard at the top we did not even get off the gondola but chose to ride it right back down.

We warmed up while enjoying a lunch at the park. We no sooner finished eating and the sun came back out. We were disappointed that we had not had clear skies for our tram ride, but decided to hike on some bonus trails offered for self exploration. Off in the distance we could see the zip-line towers; that was an adventure not in our wheelhouse.

I was proud enough of myself for braving the hanging bridges.

On our own we found a yellowish flycatcher. A distinctive feature is its white eye ring, which broadens into a small triangle behind the eye. 

We also found a Cavendishia complectens, an epiphytic shrub native to Central and tropical South America.  It is a woody perennial plant that typically grows on the trunks and in the canopies of other trees in cloud forests. It belongs to the family Ericaceae, which also includes blueberries.

The rain held off long enoough for us to make our way back to our lodge. We had planned to venture into town for dinner, but it was back to raining and blowing hard so we decided on Tiki’s Seafood, a delicious little place steps from our lodge. We had poke bowls and were happy.

As part of our cross country trip this year we visited Canada. First we visited my brother in Ontario before heading to Montreal. There we checked into Hotel Cantile Suites which was centrally located. It had been a very long drive so we had dinner and relaxed, saving the touring for the next day. First thing in the morning we headed out to our walking tour which met in Dorchester Square by the Sir Wilfrid Laurier Memorial. Alex was already telling the group that Laurier (1841-1919) was the seventh prime minister of Canada  from 1896 to 1911 and the first French Canadian prime minister. His 15-year tenure remains the longest uninterrupted term of office among Canadian prime ministers and his nearly 45 years of service in the House of Commons is a record for the House. Laurier is best known for his compromises between English and French Canada.

The back side of the monument, sculpted by Joseph-Émile Brunet and erected in 1953, is a granite relief depicting the provinces created and united under Laurier’s administrations. The monument faces towards the United States, reflecting Laurier’s support for early free trade and a continental economic orientation. 

We walked past Windsor Station, currently an office building but formerly the city’s Canadian Pacific Railway station; It served as the headquarters of CPR from 1889 to 1996,

on our way to Centre Belle (Bell Center), the Canadiens’ hockey arena, which opened in 1996. With a seating capacity of 21,105, Bell Centre is the second largest ice hockey arena in the world after SKA Arena in St. Petersburg, Russia. 

Other sports and entertainment events occur at the Centre Belle, but hockey is by far the most popular with games consistently sold out since October 2005.

Joseph Henri Maurice “Rocket” Richard (1921-2000) played all of his 18 seasons for the Canadiens. He was the first player in NHL history to score 50 goals in one season (1944-45), and the first to reach 500 career goals. But what Richard is most remembered for was giving French Canadians a spiritual lift during the “dark times” of French suppression; he was a cultural icon among Quebec’s francophone population. The Richard Riot was a riot on March 17, 1955 in Montreal. Following a violent altercation on March 13 in which Richard hit a linesman, Richard was suspended for the remainder of the season. Montreal fans protested that the suspension was too severe; the team’s largely Francophone  fan base claimed the length of the suspension was motivated by Richard’s French Canadian ethnicity. The riot became a spark for change.

Next Alex took us to Place Ville Marie to see L’Anneau (The Ring) erected in 2022. L’Anneau is the largest steel sculpture in Montreal spanning 98 ft in diameter and weighing approximately 51,000 lbs. It cost over 5 million dollars because it is heated to prevent snow buildup, and has  vibration dampers to prevent damage during high winds or earthquakes. It symbolizes the connection between Montreal, Place Ville Marie, its residents, and visitors.  Mount Royal, the city’s namesake, can be seen through L’Anneau.

The Olympic games were first hosted in Canada in 1976. The stadiums built for the events were not paid off until 2006. The games were controversial that year because the Olympic committee made the decision to boycott South Africa due to apartheid.

In the Olympic Park stands The Monument to the Ancient Flame. The monument commemorates the 1976 Summer Olympics during which the Olympic flame experienced a memorable moment when an official briefly re-lit it with a cigarette lighter after it was doused by rain. 

Square Victoria (Victoria Square) forms an integral component of the city’s urban public transit system and constitutes a ‘prestige address’ for the international face of the city.

The original Paris Metro entrance was donated by the Paris transport authority (RATP) to commemorate the collaboration of Parisian engineers in the construction of the Montreal metro. This iconic Art Nouveau entrance was installed in 1967, the 100 year anniversary of independence, and is a lasting symbol of international cooperation.  Alex explained that this metro stop connects underground to a large system of underground shops and stops. (more on this later)

In the center of Victoria Square sits the Monument à la reine Victoria (Queen Victoria Monument) unveiled in 1872 by Lord Dufferin, shortly after the confederation (more on him in Quebec City).

Alex explained that Old Montreal was mostly built between 1820 and 1880. Since buildings must have a façade in keeping with that style, which was mostly Anglo influenced like this impressive building The Gran Tronc (Grand Trunk) Railway, which established its North American headquarters in Montreal and operated an extensive network across Quebec, Ontario, and the northeastern United States. This historic building opened in 1902.

Before 1840 there were two Canadas: Upper Canada was mostly English while Lower Canada was mostly French. In 1837 there were rebellions in both Canadas after which Canada became united. The Parliament was fist in Kingston, which burned down during a rebellion. The second Parliament was in Montreal 1844-1849 but was also burned down by a rebellion. The Parliament was moved to Ottawa by Queen Victoria and now remains there.

This monument-fountain honors John Young (1811-1878), the first Chairman of the Port Commission of Montreal, known for his significant contributions to the development and enlargement of the port.  First erected in 1908, the monument was moved to its current location on rue de la Commune at Saint-Pierre in 1997.

The 1967 International and Universal Exposition, commonly known as Expo 67, was a world’s fair held in Montreal from April 28 to October 29, 1967, Canada’s centennial year. Building projects for the fair included reclaimed land to enlarge an island on which to to build Habitat 67, one of the few remaining buildings from the fair.

The metro and the pier were also part of the fair building project. The historic Convoyeurs Tower in the city’s Old Port., shown in the middle below, is now a bungee jump. 

Major League’s 1969 expansion, the  Montreal Expos (now the Washington Nationals), was named in tribute to this event.

On its third day the fair broke a record single day attendance record at the time with over 500 thousand visitors. Now the fairgrounds are beautiful parks.

A fife and drum corp practiced across the pond.

Basilique Notre-Dame de Montréal (Notre-Dame Basilica of Montreal) has been on this site since 1672, the current basilica completed in the 1840s. In 1982 it was ordained by Pope John Paul II. The stained glass is historic; we did not get a chance to go inside. It is now used for important events like state funerals. Celine Dion was married here.

In the Place d’Armes, the square in front of the basilica, is a 2013 privately owned art installation Les deux snobs (The Two Snobs). The diptych evokes, with humor, the cultural discords that used to prevail between the English: Le Carlin Anglais (The English Pug)

and Le Caniche Français (The French Poodle).

Also in in Place d’Armes is the Maisonneuve Monument. Sculpted by Louis-Philippe Hébert and unveiled in 1895, it commemorates Paul de Chomedey, Sieur de Maisonneuve, who founded Montreal (originally Fort Ville-Marie) in 1642. He was a Catholic zealot.

Our next square visited was Place Jacques-Cartier (Jacques Cartier Square) which was originally a private garden for a chateau. When the chateau burned down the owner was convinced to donate the land. The broad, divided street slopes steeply downhill from City Hall and Rue de Notre Dame to the waterfront and port. In the summer it is lined with Parisian-style cafes and bistros; at Christmas it is lined on both sides with lit trees. Alex claimed it to be the maple syrup capital of the world.

Colonne Nelson (Nelson’s Column) erected in 1809 in Place Jacques-Cartier is dedicated to the memory of Admiral Horatio Nelson (1758-1805), following his death at the Battle of Trafalgar.  Built to honor both Nelson’s memory and his victory over Napoleon’s fleet, it is the city’s oldest monument and the oldest war monument in Canada.

The five-story Hôtel de Ville de Montréal (Montreal City Hall) was built between 1872 and 1878 in the Second Empire style. 

Next to City Hall are the three flags of Montreal: Canadian National flag (left) a red maple leaf on a white field between two red stripes; the Flag of Quebec Province (center), known as the “Fleurdelisé” featuring a white cross on a blue background with four white fleurs-de-lis.; and the Flag of Montreal (right) which bears five symbols to recognize the city’s founding peoples: the white pine for the Indigenous presence, the fleur-de-lis for the French, the rose for the English, the thistle for the Scottish, and the clover for the Irish. 

As we left Place Jacques-Cartier Alex pointed out the Hydro-Québec Building, which houses the headquarters of the major electricity supplier for Quebec Province as well as upper New York State. The hydropower is generated from the Lawrence River..

Next we entered Quartier Chinois (Chinatown). The area had previously been a Jewish neighborhood in the mid to late 19th century. The first Chinese immigrant arrived in Montreal in 1877. As others followed, they moved into this neighborhood because it was close to the growing railway, for which many of them worked. The Chinese immigrants also opened laundromats and restaurants. The area became known as Quartier Chinois (Chinatown) in 1902. The Paifang Gates were a gift from Shanghai in 1999. At a total of four, Montreal’s Chinatown features the most paifang gates of any Chinatown in Canada. They symbolize a fortunate and auspicious entryway into the vibrant cultural and commercial district. 

Alex took us into the underground city. First he showed us the map but explained how difficult it is to follow, especially because it does not say where we are on the map.

Montreal’s La ville souterraine (Underground City), or RESO (French for network), is a vast (largest in the world), interconnected network of over 19 miles of tunnels and passageways linking shopping centers, hotels, office buildings, and transit hubs beneath the downtown area, serving as a year-round urban hub and a shelter from extreme weather. As many as 500,000 visitors a day can find shopping, dining, entertainment, and access various buildings through over 190 exterior points, making it a unique and must-see part of the city. It was designed in the 1960s by Boston architect Vincent Ponte.

We emerged from RESO at St. James United Church. Built in 1889 it is a prominent example of High Victorian Gothic Revival architecture, featuring two tall towers and a large rose window. 

As we walked by The Hudson Bay Company Alex explained that it is an historic Canadian retail company initially focused on the fur trade. It is considered the oldest company in North America with its roots tracing back to a Royal Charter granted in 1670. 

Before leaving us Alex gave us this last trivia tidbit: “Canada” means “village” or “settlement” and is derived from the St. Lawrence Iroquoian word kanata. In 1535 Indigenous inhabitants used this word to direct the French explorer Jacques Cartier to the village of Stadacona (present-day Quebec City), and Cartier subsequently used “Canada” to refer to the village and its surrounding area, a name that eventually expanded to encompass the entire country. 

With the tour completed, we went back to Chinatown for a late lunch. We found another Paifang Gate. This one featured stone statues of lions, called Shishi, traditional symbols that stand guard at the entrance to the neighborhood, 

After lunch we retraced some of our steps of the morning and went back toward the waterfront. Along the way we passed Hommage à Marguerite Bourgeoys sculpture, an outdoor 1988 sculpture and memorial depicting the founder of the Congregation of Notre Dame of Montreal of the same name .

We passed the la Cour d’appel du Québec (Quebec Court of Appeals). Founded in 1849, it is the highest judicial court in Quebec, Canada.

Once back on the waterfront we visited the Marché Bonsecours (Bonsecours Market), a two-story domed public market. It opened in 1847 and for more than 100 years it was the main public market in the Montreal area. It also briefly accommodated the Parliament of United Canada for one session in 1849. We went inside, but due to the lateness of the day, the stalls were mostly closed.

Next to the market was an interesting church: Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours (Our Lady of Good Help). One of the oldest churches in Montreal, it was built in 1771 over the ruins of an earlier chapel.

We trekked around the port for the rest of the afternoon.

The following day we spent some time visiting the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal (Museum of Fine Arts). Founded in 1860, it is the oldest art museum in Canada.

We also visited Basilique Cathédrale Marie Reine du Monde (Mary, Queen of the World Basilica). The church was consecrated in 1894 as Saint James Cathedral.  At the time it was the largest church in Quebec. It was made a minor basilica in 1919 by Pope Benedict XV then rededicated in 1955 to Mary, Queen of the World by Pope Pius XII.  In imitation of the statues of the 12 apostles on the façade of St. Peter’s in Rome, the cathedral is topped by statues of the patron saints of 13 parishes of Montreal that donated toward the cathedral,

The walls and floors are made of marble imported from Italy and feature several mosaics. The bronze plaque above the altar depicts St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome.

I was particularly struck by the baptismal font.

Once more we headed back toward the waterfront. We passed Les Chuchoteuses (The Gossipers), a bronze sculpture by Rose-Aimée Bélanger installed in 2002. 

By then it was evening. We stopped on Rue Sait-Paul (Saint Paul Street), Montreal’s oldest street, a historic cobblestone street known for its European feel, charming shops, art galleries, and historic architecture. We sat, ate, drank, and peopled watched for hours.

In the morning we made our way to Quebec City. There we stayed in Hotel 71, right in the heart of the Old City. After checking in we explored on our own for the rest of the afternoon. We immediately found the old city ruins in front of the large city mural. (more on the mural later) It was the location of Samuel de Champlain’s first settlement in 1608.

Archaeological remains from earlier structures have been uncovered here.

There is also a cute little park for a rest.

We wandered around the lower city noting restaurants, souvenir and toy shops,

before we climbed the steep hill next to the mural

to the park at the top: Parc Montmorency (Montmorency Park). The historical significance of the park is that the site was home to the first Parliaments of Lower Canada, Canada East, and Quebec from 1791 to 1883 when it was destroyed in a fire. (The second Parliament was in Montreal, which we had seen, the third and current is in Ottawa.) In 1894 the city opened ithe space as Parc Frontenac. It was recognized as a national park in 1949. Large cannons lining the wall speak to the site’s historical military role as a defensive battery.

In the center is a statue of George-Étienne Cartier (1814-1873), Prime Minister of United Provinces of Canada and Father of Confederation. He was considered to have “discovered” the Lawrence River.

From there we had a great view of the Saint Lawrence River below.

From the park we also had a great view of Quebec City’s iconic  Fairmont Le Château Frontenac, commonly referred to as the Château Frontenac. Opened in 1893, the Chateauesque-styled building has 18 floors; its 262-foot height is augmented by its 177 foot ground elevation.  It was one of the first of Canada’s grand railway hotels, and was designated a National Historic site of Canada in 1981.

From Parc Montmorency we continued our upward climb past the The Louis S. St-Laurent Building. Built between 1872 and 1873, this building originally housed the city’s central post office, and nowadays is used for government offices.

We continued to upper Old City to Notre-Dame de Québec Basilica-Cathedral (Our Lady of Quebec City). Built first in 1647 , it is the oldest church in Canada and was the first church in Canada to be elevated to the rank of minor basilica, by Pope Pius IX in 1874. It has twice been destroyed by fire, most recently in 1927, and has been rebuilt.

Across from the cathedral is a lovely little year-round Christmas shop.

We continued past Hôtel de ville de Québec (City Hall of Quebec City)  which was inaugurated on September 15, 1896.

At the top of the Old City sits La porte Saint-Jean (The Saint-Jean Gate), one of the entry points through the fortified walls of Old Québec. These fortifications were initially built by the French in 1690 to protect the city from British invasion and were later rebuilt by the British after they captured Québec City in 1759.  During the American siege of Quebec in 1775, American militiamen regularly approached the Saint-Jean Gate to try and persuade the local population to join their cause.  The gate is a significant landmark, reflecting the city’s military history and its evolution over centuries. 

Finally we stopped for dinner at Beclub Restaurant.

After dinner we meandered through the streets admiring works by street artists.

We hung out for a bit in Place d’Armes, established between 1640 and 1648. During the French Regime, this square was known as Grande Place, and its most prominent structural neighbour was Château Saint-Louis, the permanent residence of the governors of New France. Military parades were held by the French army here until 1760, when the colony changed hands. From then on, similar activities were carried out in this square by British troops. During the construction of the Citadelle in the 1830s, military activities ceased to be held at Place d’Armes, which became a public park in about 1865. In the middle of Place d’Armes, stands Monument de la Foi (Monument of Faith). This Gothic-style fountain and monument commemorate the 300th anniversary of the arrival of the Récollet missionaries in 1615, who were the first missionaries in Quebec.

A street performer was entertaining a crowd on Dufferin Terrace in front of a monument dedicated to Samuel de Champlain, the founder of Québec City, the governor of New France, and the first European to explore the Great Lakes.

These young men had the best view.

We spent the morning on the water front parks where we had the best views of the Le Château Frontenac.

We hung out for a bit in Batterie Royale (the Royal Battery), a historical site built in 1691 and named after King Louis XIV, who funded its construction. It was built as part of Quebec City’s defensive system and was used by French soldiers during the 1759 siege. Unearthed during archaeological excavations, the Battery was restored in 1977 and officially reopened the following year. It features four stone walls, 14 embrasures, and reproductions of cannons, offering a glimpse into the city’s military history.

We then meandered through the streets of the Petit Champlain district, known for its European charm and historic architecture. The pedestrian tram up to Dufferin Terrace can be seen at the end of the street.

On Rue du Petit-Champlain, at the foot of the cliff below Dufferin Terrace, is a little dog park Parc Félix-Leclerc dedicated to Félix Leclerc who is known for his late 1930s Radio-Canada  productions of plays and music.

On the side of a restaurant, the Fresque du Petit-Champlain mural depicts a working class neighborhood of a previous era in Quebec City including elements of trade and port life.

And from almost every street, the impressive Chateau can be seen looming above.

In the afternoon we had a scheduled walking tour of the Old City with Jean-Simon of his own company: Urban Horizons. Jean-Simon started with background information: the city was founded in 1608 by Samuel Champlain for the purpose of fur trade, especially for furs of beavers. It is the oldest established French city in North America and is the only city in North America besides Mexico City to have been enclosed by walls. Quebec means “where the river narrows,” referring to the narrowing of the Lawrence River as it enters the continent. From Quebec the traders had control of all ships needing access to Montreal, the great lakes, and most of North America. In 1763 Quebec became an English colony, but the population continued to speak French. The Hôtel du Parlement du Québec (Parliament Building of Quebec), built in 1886 on a prior cricket field, was inspired by Le Louvre in Paris. The central tower was dedicated to Cartier.

Standing in front of the Parliament building is the majestic Fontaine de Tourny (Tourny Fountain) adorned with numerous figures and boasting 43 water jets. It was originally created by French sculptor Mathurin Moreau and received a gold medal at the 1855 Paris World’s Fair. After the fair it was moved to and remained in Bordeaux until 1960 when it was disassembled, to make room for parking lots, and placed into warehouses. The fountain was a gift to the City of Québec by La Maison Simons, a local family retail business, to mark the city’s 400th anniversary. The cost to buy the fountain: $1; the shipping and reassembling cost: $5,000,000.

Jean-Simon talked about the Fortifications de Québec (ramparts of Quebec City). It is a city wall  that surrounds the western end of Old Quebec’s Upper Town. The ramparts date back to the 17th century and have undergone a succession of modifications and improvements throughout their history. In the late 19th century many wanted the gates torn down because they were too narrow for modern vehicles but instead, they were rebuilt with wider gates. The city walls extend 2.9 mi and includes 5 gates, with the upper (southern) portions of the ramparts forming a part of the Citadelle of Quebec (Quebec Citadel), still with an active military. 

The Roosevelt and Churchill Monument, busts of Franklin D. Roosevelt and Winston Churchill, is a tribute to the wartime alliance between the two leaders and commemorates the Quebec Conferences held during World War II. The first Quebec Conference in 1943 involved Roosevelt and Churchill discussing strategy for the war, including the invasion of France.

The Boer War Memorial was unveiled on 15 August 1905.  It was dedicated to all Quebecois who were killed in action during the Boer War. This memorial was erected on the site of departure of the first Canadian contingent for South Africa, on 30 October 1899.

The Monastère des Ursulines de Québec (Ursuline Monastery of Quebec City), founded in 1639, is the oldest institution of learning for women in North America. It was originally founded by a group of Roman Catholic nuns to convert local indigenous children. But now all schools in Quebec Province are secular.

Jean-Simon regaled us with an anecdote about the battle of 1759 when the British took over the city. The British had arrived in the middle of the night with cannons. The French were taken by surprise; the battle only lasted 20 minutes. French Governor Montcalm was buried in a cannon hole in the floor of the chapel of the monastery. The nuns kept the secret of his burial place until it was discovered in 2001.

The monastery was established under the leadership of Mother (now Saint) Marie of the Incarnation (1599–1672). She was a widow with a son living in France to whom she wrote many letters which preserve a recorded history of life at the monastery at that time.

Jean-Simon pointed out Restaurant Maison Jaquet, originally a home completed in 1676, making it one of the oldest houses in Quebec.  He explained the steepness of the roof is necessary in a city that receives 11.5 feet of snow every year. Roofs were historically red so they could be seen from a distance when the city was blanketed in snow.

The tour stopped on Dufferin Terrace. Jean-Simon talked briefly about the statue there of Samuel de Champlain (1574-1635), founder of the city. He had arrived here with 30 men, only eight of whom survived the winter. No one knows what he actually looked like; the statue, and all other “likenesses” of him are all based on some one else.

Jean-Simon also filled us in on some of the history of the Château Frontenac which, built in 1893, has always been a hotel. The towers were added in 1924. The final section was added in 1993 and included a pool and a spa to allow the hotel to maintain its 5 star status.

We followed the steep hill down toward the lower city. As we descended the steps, Jean-Simon informed us they had been coined the “breakneck stairs” by drunken soldiers.

We stopped in front of La Fresque des Québécois (The Mural of Quebec), a large-scale trompe-l’oeil mural completed in 1999 by a collaboration of both French and Canadian artists. The mural is painted on the side of Soumande House on Notre-Dame Street  and depicts scenes and figures from Quebec’s history. In addition, all four seasons of the year are depicted from winter on top to spring on the bottom.

In addition to depicting cultural communities, such as the Indigenous people and the French, Irish, and British settlers,

the mural also depicts historically significant figures like the Ursaline nuns

and Samuel de Champlain, shown in a green jacket and holding his hat with a large white feather. Louis Fréchette, a prominent 19th-century poet, journalist, and translator.

At this point Jean-Simon explained more of Quebec’s history. Between 1663 and 1673 approximately 800 young women were sent from France to New France (Quebec) by King Louis XIV to address a severe male-to-female population imbalance and boost the colony’s growth. The 800 women were dubbed the Filles du Roi (“Daughters of the King”). These women were provided with free passage and a dowry to marry French settlers, and they played a vital demographic role, with most French Canadians today tracing their ancestry to at least one Fille du Roi.  

We then found ourselves in Place Royale where Samuel de Champlain founded the City of Québec in 1608. 

In the center is a bust of Louis XIV who, as we learned above, helped populate the new French colony.

In the back of the square is the Église Notre-Dame-des-Victoires (Our Lady of Victories), the oldest church in Canada built in stone and retaining the original stones, it is one of the oldest churches in all of North America. Construction was started in 1687 on the site of Champlain’s habitation and was completed in 1723. Jean-Simon told us that this is where a scene toward the end of Leonardo Dicaprio’s “Catch Me if You Can” movie was shot. (We watched it that night, and it was!)

Jean-Simon explained that the church received the name Notre-Dame-de-la-Victoire (Our Lady of Victory) following two battles in which the English were defeated: first in 1690, when Governor Louis de Buade de Frontenac famously declared “I will answer you with the mouths of my cannons,”  a refusal to surrender when facing a British attack led by William Phips (which was, by the way, a bluff), then again in 1711, when the attacking British fleet was sunk in a storm. In 1775 the Americans attacked to try and pull Canadians into their war with England, but they failed, and this was the last attack on Quebec City.

In the late 18th century Napolean placed an embargo on wood from Scandanavia to England, which made the economy here in Quebec soar. Homes, businesses, and shops opened around the city. In time the economy failed and a large number of building fell into ruin but now with tourism are starting to be restored, preserving the historic architecture.

Jean-Simon had recommended microbrewery Archibald for a beer, which advice we followed

before heading to Cochon Dingue (Crazy Pig) for a delicious dinner.

The next day we decided to head out onto the Lawrence River.

Our boat for the morning was Louis Jolliet, named for Louis Jolliet who was born in Quebec in 1645 and became an explorer in North America.

As we pulled away from the dock the guide explained that this is one of the largest estuaries in the world. The water is brackish and the tides are generally 6-9 feet except in the spring with the snow melt, when the tides can become as large as 18 feet. The St. Lawrence River is about 2300 miles long extending to the Great Lakes and has 16 locks along the way, 7 of which are in Montreal. The estuary is rich in krill; marine animals feed here, migrate to the Caribbean to breed, then return. At certain times of year beluga whales and dolphins can be seen in these waters. The Quebec region of the river is shallow, only about 18-24 feet deep in most places, which saved it from submarine U boats during World War II. Quebec City itself is less than a half mile from the Atlantic Ocean, which is why there is a strong naval presence here; the red boats are naval. The seaway was inaugurated in 1929, after dredging 86 million tons of soil, with the presence of President Eisenhower, the Canadian prime minister, and Queen Elizabeth II all present.

As we headed up the Lawrence River we had picture-perfect views of the city.

We passed Davies Shipbuilding yard. Founded in 1825, they have built over 700 ships. Our Louis Jolliet had been built there in 1938 as a war ship but was converted to a cruise ship in 1977. Today they continue building everything from icebreakers to warships for use by NATO, which is for what the white one in the yard currently will be used.

Davies is on an island called Île-d’Orléans (Orleans Island). This picturesque island is a popular destination known for its agriculture, scenic beauty, historical sites, and culinary delights; 90% of the land on the island is agriculture.   We did not stop. Instead we travelled further under the Île d’Orléans Bridge where we had our best views of the waterfalls.

The larger waterfall is called Montmorency Falls which, at 272.3 high, it is a full 98.4′ taller than Niagara Falls. In the winter the spray freezes and accumulates at the base forming a heap of ice the locals call the “sugar loaf.” The smaller waterfall to the left is called the Bridal Veil Falls. The legend is that a bride whose fiance was killed in World War II jumped to her death from the top, but her veil became caught on the rocks.

After leaving the boat we walked around the lower city for a bit. Amongst the many restaurants and many, many art galleries

sits La Vivrière (The Foodcrops), a bronze fountain sculpture which commemorates the 50th anniversary of the founding of the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) of the United Nations, which was established in Quebec City in 1945. La Vivrière depicts a woman carrying food from various continents, symbolizing the fight against hunger.  

The sculpture evokes a ship figurehead, and the wave pattern in the surrounding brickwork represents the historic shoreline of the St. Lawrence River. 

We then once more climbed the steep path to the upper city. We meandered about the Terrasse Dufferin (Dufferin Terrace), a boardwalk that overlooks the St. Lawrence River. It wraps around the Château Frontenac before climbing toward the Citadelle. 

The boardwalk features six gazebos.

On the south end of the terrasse is a 490 ft ramp or Terrasse Dufferin Slides (c. 1898) used annually as a toboggan run during the Carnaval de Québec (Quebec Winter Carnival). 

We hiked all the way to Cap Diamant, Plains of Abraham, featuring works by First Nations artists. The location on Cap Diamant is a significant initiative by the National Battlefields Commission, showcasing a new space for art and dialogue. 

Les trois sentinelles (The Three Watchmen) is a monumental bronze sculpture by Haida artist James Hart.  The three figures, traditionally positioned atop totem poles in Haida villages, represent legendary guardians who watch for danger from both the physical and spiritual realms. 

We walked across the Plaines d’Abraham (Plains of Abraham), an historic area established on 17 March 1908. The land is the site of the Battle of the Plains of Abraham, which took place on 13 September 1759. The park is today used by 4 million visitors and tourists annually for sports, relaxation, outdoor concerts, and festivals.

We reached the top of Cap Diamant: the Citadille. Citadelle de Québec (The Citadelle of Quebec) is an active military installation  and the secondary official residence of the Governor of Central Canada.  The strategic importance of Cap Diamant was recognized by the French as early as 1608. Several defensive fortifications were built on the site first by the French and then by the British after their conquest of New France. The modern citadel was built from 1820 to 1850, in an effort to secure Quebec City against a potential American attack. The British used the citadel until 1871, when they formally handed the property over to the Canadian government

It is hard to see from these pictures, but we are looking down onto the entrance.

As we walked past and down the other side, looking back we could appreciate how buried the Citadel is.

Proceeding down the hill back toward the upper city, we passed the US Consulate.

We approached the Chateau Frontenac from the side. The obelisk to the left below is the Wolfe-Montcalm Monument located in Governors’ Garden. Unveiled in 1828, it commemorates the British General James Wolfe and the French General Louis-Joseph de Montcalm, both of whom died during the Battle of the Plains of Abraham in 1759. The inscription on the monument’s top plaque, translated, reads: “Their courage brought them the same end, the same fame; posterity, the same monument”.  The monument is the oldest in Quebec City and the second-oldest war monument in Canada. 

After taking photos of the Chateau for the last few days, we decided to enter the foyer

and made our way to the bar, where we sat and drank and enjoyed the view until it was time for dinner.

The next day’s drive was over 7 hours to reach our well located St. John Hilton in Saint John, New Brunswick. Saint-Jean (Saint John) is a seaport city located on the Bay of Fundy. It is Canada’s oldest incorporated city, established by royal charter on May 18, 1785, during the reign of King George III. Although tired, we dragged ourselves out to the Marketplace for a light dinner at the Saint John Ale House where we enjoyed local specialties including grilled scallops and a lobster roll.

Across from the Marketplace was an amphitheater in which a band was playing.

After a good night’s rest, we embarked on a self-guided walking tour of the city. Our first stop was the Loyalist House, a National Historic Site and a museum. Constructed in 1817, it was the home of the prosperous Merritt family, who were United Empire Loyalists who emigrated from New York after the American Revolutionary War. The house is a significant survivor of the Great Fire of Saint John in 1877, which destroyed much of the city. It is recognized for its early 19th-century classical architecture in Atlantic Canada and remains one of Saint John’s only buildings from that era that has never been structurally altered.

Next we visited St. John’s Stone Church, an Anglican church built between 1824 and 1826. It is a notable example of the Romantic Gothic Revival style in Canada. It earned the nickname “Stone Church” due to its construction using ballast stones brought from England by ships returning from transporting lumber. A piece of Caen stone from St. Andrew’s Church in Steyning, Sussex, England, known as the “Linking Stone,” is set in the Chancel arch, connecting it to the church’s English heritage. 

Next stop: The Saint John City Market, is the oldest continuously operated farmers’ market in Canada, with a charter dating from 1785.

We stepped inside.

The flags indicate the nationality of the food served. In addition to a large selection of fresh produce, there are also restaurants

with more seating outside in the nice weather.

We made our way to King George’s Square. Established in 1785, just a year after the formation of New Brunswick, the King’s Square was aptly named after King George III. Over the years, it has become a cherished space adorned with various monuments and plaques, each paying homage to individuals who have played pivotal roles in shaping the city’s history. At the heart of King’s Square stands the majestic King Edward VII Memorial Bandstand, a two-story architectural gem crowned with a copper roof and adorned with an intricate metal framework. This bandstand, donated in 1909 by the City Coronet Band, serves as a central focal point and a symbol of homage to King Edward VII.

Among the notable monuments in the park is The Loyalist Cross, erected in 1934 to honor the first settlers representing the province. Unveiled on New Brunswick’s 150th anniversary, this cross stands as a timeless tribute to the enduring spirit of those who laid the foundation for the region. 

A 20 foot tall monument commemorates John Frederick Young, a heroic 19-year-old who tragically drowned while attempting to rescue a 10-year-old boy in nearby waters on October 30, 1890.

Across the street from King George’s Square is the Imperial Theatre. Built in 1912 , it opened to the public on September 19, 1913. In 1928 it became home to the first commercial radio station. The theatre was designed as a modern adaptation of the Italian Renaissance, and was used both for live vaudeville acts as well as “talkies”. In 1929, it was renamed the Capitol Theatre, and like most vaudeville houses across the continent, became a cinema.

We strolled by the Trinity Anglican Church. Trinity Anglican Church holds a special place in the early religious history of Saint John. Established by the United Empire Loyalists shortly after their arrival, it became the inaugural congregation in the city, playing a pivotal role in shaping the religious landscape of the community. The church is part of a series of brick and stone buildings constructed between 1877 and 1881, a period of rebuilding following the devastating fire that consumed two-thirds of the City of Saint John in 1877. The original church structure, completed in 1791, fell victim to the destructive fire, leading to the construction of the present Trinity Anglican Church. The cornerstone for this new church was laid in May 1879, and it was completed in 1880. As a prime example of Gothic Revival architecture, the church stands as an impressive structure with a towering spire reaching 200 feet, making it visible from various vantage points in uptown Saint John. The resonant chimes of the clock, marking every half hour, contribute to the distinctive character of the city.

The Port of Saint John is Canada’s third-largest by tonnage with a cargo base that includes dry and liquid bulk, containers, and cruise. 

We watched as two tug boats turn a large container vessel.

The one on the left is pulling; the one on the right is pushing.

What Saint John is most noted for is that it sits on the Bay of Fundy, a bay between the provinces of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. Its tidal range at 56 feet is the highest in the world. Some tides are higher than others, depending on the position of the moon, the sun, and atmospheric conditions. The steps into the bay just outside our hotel show this difference between almost high tide

and approaching low tide.

Because of tidal resonance in the funnel-shaped bay, the tides that flow through the channel are very powerful. In one half-day tidal cycle, about 100 billion tons of water flow in and out of the bay, which is twice as much as the combined total flow of all the rivers of the world over the same period.

We were told that the strength of the incoming tide actually pushes against the flowing Saint John River, resulting in the Reversing Falls. We decided to take the about 2.5 mile hike to see it. Along the way we passed the Fallen Heroes Memorial

and the Naval Memorial

which honors the courage and sacrifice of New Brunswick mariners and maritime aviators who served Canada, including those who lost their lives and have no known grave. 

Place Fort Latour, from their web page, ” commemorates 5700+ years of changing ceremonial, commercial, and industrial uses of this special place. The site of treachery, intrigue, and a memorable battle in early Acadian times, Place Fort La Tour provides today’s visitors with experiences and structures that are evocative of these stories and a current day meeting place, much like it has always been. Land Acknowledgement: Place Fort La Tour / Menaquesk is situated on the traditional and unceded and unsurrendered territory of the Wolastoqiyik/Maliseet. The Wolastoqiyik/Maliseet along with their Indigenous neighbours, the Mi’Kmaq/Mi’kmaw and Passamaquoddy/Peskotomuhkati.”

A mural by Barry Ogden, a notable figure in Saint John for organizing beautification projects, visually represents the significant events and cultures associated with Place Fort La Tour’s long history. 

The Memory Vessel created by New Brunswick artist Peter Powning is situated at the eastern end of the Reversing Falls, within Irving Memorial Park. It serves as a memorial to five individuals who tragically died in an accident near the site.  The canoe-shaped sculpture is made of stainless steel and contains small pieces of recycled glass, which illuminate at night with a soft glow. The artwork’s design, with its undulating columns and canoe-like form, reflects the city’s nautical heritage and the importance of memory. 

Finally we reached the Park from which to observe Reversing Falls.

The Reversing Falls is a unique series of rapids where the powerful tides of the Bay of Fundy force the Saint John River’s flow to reverse twice daily, creating churning water and whirlpools. At low tide, the river flows towards the bay, but as the tide rises, the bay’s immense water pressure gradually reverses the river’s flow, generating rapids and whirlpools that flow away from the harbor. 

It is hard to discern from these stills (it is quite impressive in person), but the whirlpools give a sense of the water swirling in both directions at once.

The water forms a line between the incoming tide and the flowing river.

After the long hike back it was time for another ale and dinner at the Marketplace

and to enjoy the sunset.

We flew from Salta City to Puerto Iguazú, home of the famous falls. We were met at the airport by a driver and our guide for the next 2 days: Matias. Matias welcomed us to Puerto Iguazú with its population of 45,000. He told us that Iguazú means big waters in Guarani, a living Indigenous South American language, primarily spoken in Paraguay, where it is a national language alongside Spanish, and is an official language in this part of Brazil. The climate here is subtropical with rainfall and humidity all year and only occasional frost. The Misiones Province is so named because of the Jesuits who came to convert the locals, the Guaraní, who were living here in harmony with nature. Each mission was like a small city. On the Portuguese side, the locals were made into slaves. On the Spanish side those locals who joined the mission were protected from soldiers. On the Spanish side there were 18 missions; they had a Bible printed in Guaraní. Misiones Province is now notable for its waterfalls as well as its rich red soil and plentiful vegetation. At the time of the Jesuits’ arrival, yerba mate grew wild in the area. The Guaranís drank it through a bamboo “straw” from a gourd with a hole in it. The Jesuits tried to forbid the drinking of mate because they thought it promoted laziness. But when forbidding the drink was unsuccessful, they instead started production. Today 95% of Argentina’s yerba mate is grown here; it is called green gold.

They left us at the Iguazú Jungle Lodge with information of where to explore and dine with the remainder of our day.

We hiked up to the northernmost region of town to this little park.

A harpist played while the sun set.

This location, “Triple Frontera” (Triple Frontier), is where the Iguazú River joins the Paraná River; three countries come together; Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay. The Friendship Bridge seen across the river connects Brazil on the right to Paraguay on the left in this picture.

All three flags are flown.

We passed a small artisinal market in San Martin Plaza.

We had a delicious Argentinian tomahawk steak at La Rueda (The Wheel) Restaurant before heading back for the night.

In the morning as we drove toward the falls, Matias explained that the park was created in 1934 to protect the border area as well as the environment. Iguazú Falls’ water source, is the Iguazú River, which originates in the Serra do Mar mountains in the Brazilian state of Paraná. The river flows for about 820 miles before plunging over a series of cliffs and plunging 220 feet, creating the spectacular Iguazú Falls, the largest waterfall system in the world, on the border of Argentina and Brazil.  Along the way are many tributaries and hydroelectric dams, all of which can effect the water flow at any time. Matias emphasized that all of the water is from rainfall, not melting glaciers or snow caps in the mountains.

Matias also informed us that due to deforestation, only 7% of the original Atlantic Rain Forest remains, most of which is now in this area, which is now a protected green corridor to protect endangered species such as jaguars (Guarani for “kills in one leap”), pumas, ocelots, wild pigs, tapirs, and more. Coaties are common here, as we will see soon. This is the most biodiverse area in Argentina with many species of birds, mammals, amphibians, reptiles, numerous insects and butterflies.

We had finally reached the park. While Matias procured our tickets, we studied the map. While the Brazilian side of the falls is known for its panoramic beauty, the Argentinean side offers a more close-up look at the falls from above and below with its winding upper and lower trails.

As we embarked on the upper trail first, Matias pointed out the tall, skinny cecropia tree in whose hollow trunk ants live. Birds eat the fruits; the leaves are brewed to treat upper respiratory infections.

The first falls we reached were Dos Hermanas (Two Sisters).

And around the corner we came to our first sighting of the majority of the falls, a formation which originated over 150 million years ago.

Next we approached Salta Chico.

We could appreciate Brazil across the way

and how very far the falls wrap around. The total distance on the top is 1.7 miles across with 70% in Argentina, 30% in Brazil.

Next we came to Bossetti Falls named for the engineer and explorer Carlos Bossetti, a member of a 1882 German expedition that studied the region and built some of the first walkways.

Matias explained to us that after several years of visiting the falls almost daily, he now gets excited over uncommon things, usually found amongst the fauna. On this day he became excited at the rare, in the region, presence of a pato real or “royal duck,” discernible by the green on his back.

Next we came to a pair of falls named Adam and Eve, so named because while the rangers were choosing names for the falls, a couple was seen bathing and swimming naked beneath them.

From above Salto Adán here we could see an original, abandoned, walkway below.

Next came  Salto Bernabé Méndez falls, named after Bernabé Méndez, a park ranger killed by poachers in 1968 while protecting the park.

Matias pointed out the many vultures flying about.

Next we came to Salto Mbiguá.

Eric was fascinated by a huge spiderweb. Matias told us the nephila spider, one of the largest, spins a web so strong it can be used as fishing line.

Next we came to the second largest of the falls: San Martín. San Martín was an intellectual who promoted revolution in Argentina. Every town we have visited has had a prominent San Martín street and/or plaza; every province a San Martín city, and here, a San Martín Falls.

Here was a tree full of vultures.

As we hiked toward the lower trail, we passed a vulture on a rock.

It happens that the vulture was picking a dead fish up out of the river, an experience new to Matias. We watched for a while until the vulture was successful.

At the base of the trailhead we came to a rest stop. Here Matias chuckled as he told us that so many people have fed the wildlife, especially the coatis, the humans are now ironically forced to eat inside of cages to protect them from the wildlife.

We embarked from the bottom of the lower trail.

The first falls we encountered on the lower trail was the Salto Nuñez, named for Álvar Nuñez Cabeza de Vaca, the Spanish explorer credited with the first European discovery of the falls in 1541.

We enjoyed walking along the bottom glimpsing falls in the distance.

From this lower vantage point we could see both the Argentinean side to the right as well as the Brazilian side to the left with San Martín island, on which the vultures sleep, in the middle.

Matias inadvertently dropped his water bottle over the fence while posing for this pic and had to (illegally) hop onto the other side for its retrieval.

With most of the falls in view, Matias explained that the total number of falls, somewhere in the neighborhood of 275, differs at any given time depending on the amount of rainfall, which has currently been slightly above average. There are times when the falls we are seeing now, immediately to the left of Salto San Martín, are not there. When the rainfall has been heavy, some of the falls converge and flooding can occur. He showed us pictures taken at times of two floods: the most recents in 2014 and 2023, and of the drought of 1978.

From the lower trail we got to see from below some of the falls we had seen from above. First was Salto Chico

then Salto Dos Hermanas

Matias pointed out a late-blooming ginger lily.

As we headed to the last leg of the Argentinean side of our journey, Matias explained to us that back in the 1970s, this area of the park was an airport. As tourism grew and the number of visitors increased, the airport was moved out of town and structures were erected within the park for dining and lodging. It was in this area we found our first coatis, a mammal in the raccoon family.

and owls in the trees

and a grey cracker butterfly.

We caught the train out to the Salto Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat Falls). The trainline opened in 2001. Prior to its opening, tourists had to hike the distance.

Alighting from the train we were greeted by a plush crested jay.

We joined the trailhead out to the Salto Garganta del Diablo.

As we traversed the trail, a Cramer’s eighty-eight butterfly landed on Eric’s cap.

Matias informed us that this is the third walkway constructed to the Salto Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat Falls). This one opened in 2001, same year as the train and tourist center.

The first walkway was washed away in the flood of 1982, the second in the flood of 1993. This one had parts washed away in the October, 2023 flood. and has been rebuilt four times in total in the 24 years since it opened. As we walked over the river, we could see remnants of the older walkways.

and parts washed away in floods.

On the river we saw a blue heron.

In the river we saw giant catfish.

As we neared the falls were were impressed with the number of people there.

We got close enough for our first glimpse of Salto Garganta del Diablo.

Finally we edged our way onto the viewing platform.

Words cannot describe the roaring sound of the falls

as well as the welcome coolness of the misty waters.

Of course a selfie was necessary.

We could not drag ourselves away, so we just kept snapping more pics.

Here at the top of the falls the river is wide and shallow. The color of the water changes based on the volume of rainfall, which has been greatly affected by deforestation. After joining the Paraná River below at the Triple Frontera, together they flow to Buenos Aires where they spill into the estuary Rio de la Plata and then into the Atlantic Ocean.

A few last pics of Salto Garganta del Diablo

and we headed back.

This time an Agathina Emperor butterfly landed on Matias’ vest. I have been in butterfly gardens with less impressive numbers and varieties of butterflies than seen here.

Back at the Jungle Lodge, spent from all the hiking, we lounged at the pool before dining in the Jungle Restaurant.

The next day was time for the Brazilian side of the falls. As we waited in a fairly long line for the border crossing, Matias filled us in on some of the history of the border between the two countries. Right now the border crossing into Brazil is much longer than in the past because every day goods, including gasoline and groceries, are much less expensive in Brazil after a significant period of inflation in Argentina. Due to large government debt, in December, 2001, after about 20 years, the Argentinian peso was unpegged to the US dollar. The thought at the time was that allowing the market to determine the exchange rate would radically improve competitiveness and eliminate the then current account deficit along with the need to borrow money to finance it which would hopefully stimulate the economy, which was suffering at the time from large unemployment numbers. This led ultimately to several years of runaway inflation, which Miele was elected to control in 2023. Since his election prices have stabilized, but continue to be higher than in Brazil. This has not always been the case. In times past gasoline was so cheap in Argentina, Brazilians would cross over the border to buy it and then sell it illegally in Brazil. Even with overall prices high in Argentina now, Brazilians and Paraguayans still cross into Argentina to buy wine.

Matias also pointed out to us the Itaipu hydroelectric dam on the border between Brazil and Paraguay which, built in the 1970s and opened in 1984, is now the second greatest producer of electricity in the world, only surpassed by one in China. It has 20 generators, 10 in each country. There is a second dam further down the river that generates power for Argentina.

Finally we made it across the border and entered the Brazilian park. Matias explained that because the Argentinian side had been cleared for an airport, the trees on the Brazilian side are much older and larger with levels of vegetation. Here there are Palm trees under canopies. Heart of Palm, for example, needs more shade than is typical in the subtropical jungle of Argentina. We soon got our first glimpse of the falls from the Brazilian side.

From here is a better river view

and a good look at most of the falls at once.

Matias loved to have us pose for pics.

From here we can also see the full 200 foot height of the falls and appreciate the two distinct levels.

a closer view of the different levels is below.

We came upon a crowd of people, some of whom were feeding the coaties, which Matias promptly and firmly reminded them was not allowed. It is no surprise why the humans now have to sit in cages to enjoy a meal.

The are pretty aggressive animals and, in my opinion, somewhere between cute and ugly.

We continued along the path admiring the falls from every vantage point. The conglomeration of falls in the main section is called Salto Rivadavia.

Here the vultures overhead seemed even closer.

Sightseeing boats go right up to and under the falls, drenching all of those aboard. Unfortunately, due to our loss of a day due to the cancelled flight, we were headed to the airport immediately following this excursion leaving no time for a boat ride. Not sure we would have done it even if we had the time.

A panorama, despite the distortion, shows the full expanse of the 1.7 miles of the falls. The full falls is called the Cataratas Falls.

We started to approach the end of the falls.

We headed toward the viewing platform already packed with tourists.

Once on the platform we could again feel the mist as it settled over us.

To the left is a tourist center with more viewing platforms at the top. The falls seen in the picture below, to the very left, are the only falls that cannot be seen from the Argentinian side.

The many smaller falls can be appreciated.

Far out onto the platform one feels the power of the water rushing by. Approximately 320,000 gallons spill over the falls every second.

One last photo op at the very tip of the viewing platform, up close to Salto Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat Falls),

We did not wait for the elevator and started the ascent to the top.

Along the path Eric found another huge spider web, this one with its huge spider as well as its lunch caught in the web.

From this vantage point we have a side view of the fall not seen from Argentina.

We reached the very top.

Looking back on the viewing platform we could see a rainbow formed in the mist above the people below.

We asked about the large hanging bundles in the palm trees and were told they are birds’ nests.

Frederico Engel lived in and around the Iguaçu Falls (Portuguese spelling) during the early part of the 20th century. He was of a family of German immigrants who had lived in the south of Brazil since 1863. He was a pioneer in conservation efforts, keen to preserve the natural beauty of the falls.

The caipirinha is Brazil’s national cocktail, a potent and refreshing drink made by mixing fresh lime wedges with sugar, then adding cachaça, a Brazilian spirit distilled from sugarcane, and ice. The traditional method extracts the lime’s juice and essential oils for a bright, earthy, and citrusy flavor that captures the essence of Brazil’s culture. Of course we had to try one.

While trying the national drink we had to try the national street snack: coxinha, a deep-fried croquette made from dough and a creamy shredded chicken filling, often flavored with broth and vegetables like onion and garlic. Shaped like a teardrop or drumstick, the coxinha is first coated in flour, then egg, and finally breadcrumbs before being deep-fried to a crisp, golden brown exterior. 

We flew to Buenos Aires and checked into our hotel in the Palermo neighborhood, which was full of restaurants from which to choose for dinner. In the morning we were met by Laura for our tour of the city. She first told us that while the city of Buenos Aires has a population of about 3 million, the greater Buenos Aires metropolitan area includes about 16 million people, over a third of the population of the entire country. As we drove along Avenida del Libertador (Avenue of the Liberator), Laura explained that most of the European style buildings seen were built between 1880 and 1930. The southern part of the city is the oldest, but during the pandemic of 1880 most wealthy Europeans moved north.

On Avenida del Libertador we passed The Monument to the Carta Magna and Four Regions of Argentina aka the Monument of the Spanish. The monument was a donation by the Spanish community in celebration of the centennial of the Revolución de Mayo of 1810 (which marked the formal beginning of Argentina’s independence from Spain). It is made of Carrara marble and bronze. The foundation stone was laid in 1910 but it was not completed and inaugurated until 1927.

Our first stop was a statue of Eva Perón. María Eva Duarte de Perón, better known as Eva Perón or by the nickname Evita, wife of Argentine President Juan Perón, was an Argentine politician, activist, actress, and philanthropist who served as First Lady of Argentina from June 1946 until her death at home in July 1952. She died childless at the young age of 33 from cervical cancer. The statue is on the site of what was the home in which she lived and died. The statue is in a park where the presidents used to reside. (Since 1955 the presidents now live in Olivo, which previously had been their summer home.) She is depicted as running away from the pain of her cancer leaving her blanket behind. It was unveiled in 1999. An inscription at the base of the statue reads, “She knew how to dignify women, protect childhood and shelter old age, giving up all honors”.  The small pile of bricks next to the statue are from the original house which burned down, from which she had escaped with her life.

Next we stopped in the Recoleta neighborhood. As we headed toward the basilica we passed a huge rubber tree (ficus) planted by monks in the Gran Gomero in Plaza Juan XXII. 

An artist created the sculpture Atlas, a representation of the mythological titan, to support one of the tree’s massive, heavy branches. The statue symbolizes the strength and longevity of the tree, which is considered one of the city’s oldest and most iconic landmarks. 

The Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar, was built as part of the Franciscan monastery, completed in 1732. It is the second-oldest church in Buenos Aires, and had served as a parish church following the expulsion of the Franciscans in 1821. Now it is a cultural center.

The architecture is simple

but the internal decor is Baroque.

A picture composed of tiles hanging just outside the basilica shows what the city looked like in 1794. The river was closer than it is today; the land was later reclaimed for ports.

In 1822 monks donated land for a cemetery when their order was disbanded, and the garden of the convent was converted into the first public cemetery in Buenos Aires. As we entered the Recoleta Cemetery, we were immediately struck by how different this is to any cemetery we had previously visited.

For one, it is so large with so many mausoleums (almost 5,000 in 5.5 square blocks), it is organized along named streets.

At first they were simple.

But later became more elaborate.

Bodies are placed in a sealed zinc coffin which is then placed within a wood coffin, which is just for decoration. Some mausoleums are apartment style for the whole family.

Some mausoleums are very thin.

In 1823, one year after the cemetery opened, San Martin’s wife died of tuberculosis and was buried here. San Martin himself died in France, but ultimately his body was brought back to Argentina in 1980; he is laid to rest in Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral, which we were to visit later. Originally San Martin’s parents were buried here by his wife, but they were later moved to Yapeyú, the province in which he was born.

William Brown (1777-1857) was the founder of the navy and was of Irish descent; his monument is green.

Tomás Guido (1788-1866) was a friend of San Martin and a general in the Argentine War of Independence. Together they had crossed the Andes Mountains; his mausoleum is made of rocks from the Andes. He was originally buried here but his mortal remains were moved next to those of San Martin in 1988 on the hundredth anniversary of his birth.

The cemetery filled in 2003. All of the plots are family owned and have a contract with the government for 80 years. After 80 years if no one pays the government for the contract, the government can take the plot back and sell it. Therefore, there continues to be new ones added all the time. This is one of the newest.

A peak through the glass window reveals the interior.

Often there is a downstairs chamber for other family members; note the stairwell to the right.

Bartolomé Mitre (1821-1906), the sixth president of Argentina, was the first constitutional president. He was interred in his family mausoleum and the government maintains it. 

The patron saint of Argentina is Our Lady of Luján (Nuestra Señora de Luján), also known as the Virgin of Luján, often adorns mausoleums. (more on her later) Seen below to the right, she is the Madonna with the wide triangular-shaped veil.

 

And of course, Eva Perón (1919-1952) has a place in the Duarte family crypt in the Recoleta Cemetery, a significant landmark and popular tourist attraction. After Evita’s death in 1952, her body was embalmed, placed in a glass coffin, and set to be housed in a monument. However, following a military coup that ousted her husband, Juan Perón, in 1955, her body was secretly removed. It was hidden for years and eventually buried in a cemetery in Milan, Italy, under a false name. Her body was returned to Argentina in 1974 with her husband Juan Perón when he returned from exile. She was interred five meters underground in the heavily fortified crypt, owned by her brother Senator Juan Duarte, to prevent further theft or desecration. The tomb is a place of pilgrimage for many, especially for the thousands of people who visit each year, many of whom bring flowers or ribbons.

My favorite story of all was that of a Liliana Crociati de Szaszak, a young newlywed who died in an avalanche in Innsbruck, Austria, in 1970. Her father, a hairdresser, built her a Gothic-revival crypt featuring a life-size bronze statue of Liliana in her wedding dress. After her beloved dog, Sabú, died, a statue of him was added, with Liliana’s bronze hand resting on his head. This was reportedly against cemetery rules, as pets are not typically buried there.

We drove back north along Avenida 9 de Julio (July 9th Avenue), believed to be the widest avenue in the world and a central thoroughfare, named after Argentina’s Independence Day. It has 22 lanes, 11 on each side, as well as a median totaling over 450 feet wide. The center lanes are for buses only. There is parking below ground. Along the way we passed three embassies and the Park Hyatt Hotel, all of which had been built between 1880 and 1930 as private homes.

We next visited The Catedral Metropolitana de la Santísima Trinidad (The Metropolitan Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity), dedicated to the immaculate conception. It is the most important cathedral in Argentina. The building site was first committed to the church in 1580. The current cathedral building began in 1754, after the collapse of the second of the previous two churches on this site, and was finished in 1940. It now overlooks the Plaza de Mayo (May Plaza).

Inside we found a little chapel dedicated Nuestra Señora de Luján (Our Lady of Luján, sometimes referred to as The Virgin of Luján). The devotion to Our Lady of Luján began in 1630 when a Portuguese rancher from Brazil was transporting two clay statues of the Immaculate Conception. The oxen pulling the cart carrying the statues stopped moving near the Luján River. When one of the images was removed from the cart, the oxen resumed their journey, leading people to believe that the Virgin Mary wanted to be venerated there. A small chapel was built at the site, which eventually grew into the magnificent Basilica of Luján in the city of the same name. The Basilica is a major pilgrimage site, with millions of Catholics visiting annually, especially for the Feast Day of Our Lady of Luján on May 8th. Pope Pius XI formally declared Our Lady of Luján the patroness of Argentina, Paraguay, and Uruguay in 1930.

The Virgin of Luján is considered the spiritual heart of the nation, a symbol of unity, and a source of hope for the Argentine people. She is not only the patron saint of the country but also that for travelers. Public buses are adorned with her image.

In the adjoining chapel of the cathedral is a Holocaust Memorial.

The floors of the cathedral were one of the last parts of the construction to be completed in 1940. They are composed of mosaic tiles.

There are impressive frescoes on the ceilings.

The high alter is flanked by the choir stalls.

An 1871 Walker organ has more than 3500 pipes. It was made in Germany with the finest materials available at that time. It is now played once a month.

Laura surprised us with her timing having coincided with the changing of the guards,

who are from the military and are there to protect the mausoleum of San Martin.

In the early 1800s Argentina passed a prohibition on wealthy families burying their loved ones in private chapels within cathedrals, which is why the Recoleta Cemetery was founded. An exception was made for their heroes. As we had learned throughout Argentina, José Francisco de San Martín y Matorras (1778-1850) was the hero of independence, nicknamed “the Liberator of Argentina, Chile and Peru.” In 1880 the remains of San Martin were brought from France and placed in a mausoleum shown above behind the guards. The mausoleum was designed in various shades of marble by a French artist.

There are less people in the way in the back of the tomb.

The black sarcophagus is guarded by three life-size female figures that represent three of the regions freed by the General:

Chile, represented by an anchor,

Peru, represented by the pick for the silver mines.

and Argentina, represented by broken chains which are symbolic of liberation achieved by the major battle of San Lorenzo.

The mausoleum also has the remains of Generals Juan Gregorio de las Heras (1780-1866), also a general in the War of Independence, and Tomás Guido, as mentioned previously. 

After paying our respects to the leading founders of the country, we stepped out onto Plaza de Mayo (May Plaza), formed in 1884 as the hub of the city. The Pirámide de Mayo (May Pyramid), located at the hub of the plaza, is the oldest national monument in the city. Its construction was ordered in 1811 to celebrate the first anniversary of the May Revolution, a week-long series of events that took place from 18 to 25, May 1810. The monument is crowned by an allegory of Liberty.

From there we could see the office building of the current regime, the Casa Rosada (Red House), which was originally built as a fort, the government palace, and the customs building. The red symbolizes the blood shed during the War of Independence; the color was originally a mix of bull’s blood and lime, which protected the building from humidity.

Laura commented that the fencing seen in front of Casa Rosada is not typical and probably to hold back the expected crowds for the upcoming day’s potential protests. The Plaza de Mayo has traditionally been the focal point of political life in Buenos Aires. On 17, October 1945, mass demonstrations organized by trade unions forced the release of Juan Perón, who would go on to become president three times, from prison.  During his tenure, the Peronist movement gathered every 17 October (Loyalty Day for Peronists) in the Plaza de Mayo to show their support for their leader. Many other presidents, both democratic and military, have also saluted people in the Plaza from the Casa Rosada’s balcony

The plaza, since 1977, is where the Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo have congregated with signs and pictures of desparecidos, their children, who were subject to forced disappearance by the Argentine military in the Dirty War.  People perceived to be supportive of subversive activities (that would include expressing left-wing ideas, or having any link with these people, however tenuous) would be illegally detained, subjected to abuse and torture, and finally murdered in secret. The Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo took advantage of the symbolic importance of the Plaza to open the public’s eyes to what the military regime was doing. The mothers wore white headscarves during their silent marches to represent the nappies (diapers) of their missing children.

The Equestrian monument to General Manuel Belgrano (1770-1820) holding the flag of Argentina was dedicated on September 24, 1873, at an anniversary of the Battle of Tucumán.  General Manuel Belgrano was an Argentine public servant, economist, lawyer, politician, journalist, and military leader. He took part in the Argentine Wars of Independence and designed what became the flag of Argentina. 

A closer look at the statue revealed stones thrown onto the base.

Laura explained that the painted rocks around the statue are from families of those lost to COVID-19 during the pandemic and a protest to the then president celebrating his wife’s birthday during lockdown.

Argentina suffered 300,000 deaths due to the virus.

Other buildings around Plaza de Mayo include: The Cabildo of Buenos Aires, a public building that was used as a seat of the town council during the colonial era and the government house of the Viceroyalty of the Río de la Plata and a prison from 1608-1877. The Cabildo was declared a National Historic Monument in 1933 and was opened to public as a museum in 1938.

and the Bank of the Argentine Nation.

As we left Plaza de Mayo we passed the building of the Ministry of the Economy built in 1854.

Laura pointed out the still remaining bullet holes from the 16th, June 1955 attempted coup on Perón’s government.

Next we traveled down to the working class neighborhood of La Boca (The Mouth), located at the mouth of the River. We stopped by the football (soccer) stadium which has a 45,000 seat capacity.

Our driver and guide Laura support opposing teams: our driver, Boca Junior and Laura, River Plate. Legend has it that when picking the team colors, the captain of Boca Junior went to the port and the first ship he saw was flying a Swedish flag: yellow and blue.

The Boca Junior team has had some quite famous footballers through the years.

The La Boca neighborhood was the first port in the city. In 1536, the Spanish, led by Pedro de Mendoza arrived and founded the first settlement, named Nuestra Señora Santa María del Buen Aire (Our Lady of Saint Mary of Good Air) on the land that would centuries later become Parque Lezama (Lezama Park). This initial settlement was short-lived, however, and was abandoned by 1541 having been driven out by indigenous people. For decades Paraguay, with its riches in silver, became the center of the Spanish colonization; Argentina was re-found in 1580. The residents of La Boca neighborhood were often from Genoa and historically so poor that they painted their homes with whatever remnants of paint were leftover from ships. The colorful neighborhood now gets a fresh coat of paint yearly.

Through the years there have been may fires threatening this poor neighborhood which has built a longtime love and respect for the firefighters who protect them.

Influenced by a mix of rhythms of Africa and European music, tango was born in the late 19th century here in the brothels of the South of the city.

Initially shunned by the upper class, tango spread through dance halls and became a national symbol, reaching global popularity in the early 20th century before declining. It then experienced a resurgence in Argentina in the 1980s after becoming fashionable in France.

Caminito is a vibrant, colorful “museum street” and tourist attraction in the La Boca neighborhood.

 Immortalized by the famous tango “Caminito,” the area is characterized by brightly painted tenements that house artists’ studios, souvenir shops, and bohemian bars, creating a unique tango atmosphere. 

Santos Vega was a mythical Argentine gaucho, and invincible payador (type of minstrel who competed in singing competitions), who was only defeated by theDevil himself. 

Slavery in Argentina began in the 16th century, and the port neighborhood of La Boca, located in Buenos Aires at the mouth of the Riachuelo river, was a major entry point for enslaved Africans. Many of the slaves ultimately settled here enriching the culture of this working class neighborhood.

Of course the patron saint of the city, The Virgin of Luján, is represented here.

Laura treated us to some alfajores, chocolate sandwhich cookies, from famous Cachafaz Caminito.

While waiting for the driver to come back for us, we wandered about the port for a bit. Laura pointed out the statue of Benito Quinquela Martin (1890-1977) whose paintings of port scenes show the activity, vigor and roughness of the daily life in the port of La Boca. He then donated his profits back to the port community.

His donations helped build the school directly across from his statue.

After a well earned siesta, we were back out in the evening for a tango performance. We arrived early and strolled around a bit

before heading in to our venue for the performance.

Dinner was included as well as a performance of tango by single couples

as well as multiple couples.

A singer performed Andrew Lloyd Webber’s “Don’t Cry for Me Argentina” in Spanish, which brought tears to many in the audience.

We were also regaled with folk music from the northwestern provinces while images of that region passed on the screen behind the performers.

Also from the folk tradition was a performance by a drummer

who also performed Malambo, a folk dance associated with the gauchos that features energetic stomping and complicated legwork, incorporating the use of boleadoras, weighted balls on cords.  We were so happy to have visited the areas from which the folk music and dance had originated.

On our own in the morning we headed straight to the El Ateneo Grand Splendid bookstore. Built in 1919 as the Teatro Gran Splendid, it was converted into a bookstore in 2000, retaining its magnificent architecture. The world-renowned bookstore was once home to tango performances and early talkies.

Visitors can explore the theatre’s original architectural features, including frescoed ceilings, ornate balconies, and theatre boxes,

while browsing a vast collection of books. We were particularly amused by their choices of English-language books on display.

There was a full collection of Harry Potter

as well as numerous books about Taylor Swift found in the children’s’ section.

In addition to books we found numerous vinyl records for sale in the lower level.

The former stage now serves as a café, offering a unique spot to enjoy a coffee.

We continued wandering about the city. We were surprised by this advert for a streaming service; remember it was March, 2025 and our new administration back home was making a lot of headlines.

We walked past the Facultad de Derecho (Law Faculty) founded in 1821.

We also saw the Floralis Genérica (Generic Flora) a sculpture  made of steel and aluminum located in Plaza de las Naciones Unidas (Plaza of the United Nations).  It was created in 2002 and designed with a hydraulic mechanism which allows the petals to close at night and open in the morning symbolizing hope reborn every day at its opening. In 2023 two of the petals were knocked off during a storm and have not been replaced.

In the park we spied a monk parakeet.

We ventured next to the Mercado de San Telmo (San Telmo Market).

Operating since 1897, the indoor section features original architectural elements like columns and beams.

San Telmo houses a variety of permanent stalls, including food vendors, antique dealers, and shops selling records and crafts.

We stopped for a quick bite to eat.

As we made our way back uptown, we began seeing some of the crowds of parades and protests to which Laura had alluded the day prior. To understand the events of the day, we needed a little more background history of Argentina. Juan Perón (1895-1974) was president of Argentina twice: as the 29th president 1946-1955, when his government was overthrown and he fled the country; again as the 40th president 1973-1974, when he died in office and was succeeded by his third wife. Perón’s ideas, policies and movement are known as Peronism, which continues to be one of the major forces in Argentine politics; his followers are Perónists.

In his youth Perón had traveled extensively throughout Europe which is where he picked up his socialistic ideology. Perón participated in the 1943 revolution and later held several government positions, including Minister of Labor, Minister of War and Vice President. It was then that he became known for adopting labor rights reforms. Political disputes forced him to resign in early October 1945 and he was later arrested. On  October 17, workers and union members gathered in the Plaza de Mayo to demand his release.  Perón’s surge in popularity helped him win the presidential election in 1946. Perón’s third wife, Isabel Perón, was elected as vice president on his ticket and succeeded him as president upon his death in 1974. Political violence only intensified and she was ousted by a military coup on March 25, 1976, initiating a period of military rule and state terrorism, the “Dirty War,” that lasted until 1983.  Plaza de Mayo is now every March 25th on the site of the Argentine government’s commemoration of the Day of Remembrance for Truth and Justice. Participants carry signs that say “Nunca Mas,” (Never Again).

The signage was a mixture of a protest or indictment of the government.

and a memorial for those lost during the Dirty War.

Note the sign below has a pictue of Eva Perón. Evita came to Buenos Aires at the age of 15 to become an actress. She had come from a poor family. She met Juan Perón while he was in the military and subsequently Vice President. She helped form his socialistic platform. Together they helped develop the middle class as well as secure the vote for women.

The Edificio del Ministerio de Obras Públicas (Building of the Ministry of Public Works), built in the 1930s,  features two giant 31-meter by 24-meter Corten steel murals of Eva Perón. First displayed in 2011 they show Evita both smiling on one side

and combative as she mobilizes the crowds on the other side of the building. She often gave speeches from the balconies of Casa Rosada.

She remains popular.

The crowds were impressivley large and non-violent.

Even the side streets were full.

Crowds even surrounded the Obelisco de Buenos Aires (Obelisk of Buenos Aires), a national historic monument and icon of the city.  Located in the Plaza de la República on the intersection of avenues Corrientes, which leads to the Plaza de Mayo, and 9 de Julio, the Obelisk was erected in 1936 to commemorate 400 years since the founding of the city in 1536 by the arrival of Pedro de Mendoza (1487-1537).

For dinner we chose Estilo Campo in the Puerto Madero section, more on that later, for an Argentinean steak.

In the morning we had tickets to to the opera house which was very near to where we had seen the marchers the previous day. We walked by the obelisk; what a difference a day makes.

Teatro Colón (Columbus Theater) is famous for its magnificent building and, particularly, its near-perfect acoustics. The present Colón replaced an original theatre which opened in 1857 and was in Plaza de Mayo, where is now the National Bank, and was closed in 1888. The present theatre opened on 25 May 1908 after a 20 year construction process during which the first two architects, both from Italy, died. The first died at age 44, the second was murdered upon being discovered in bed with another man’s wife. The third and final architect was from Belgium.

We took a guided tour with Lucia which began in the Main Foyer.

The floors are made of mosaic tiles from Italy.

The stairs are marble from Italy.

The red marble is from Spain, the green from Belgium, and the pink marble is from Portugal.

The stained glass originated in Paris.

Most of the costumes and sets are made and stored in the basement factory, but a few were on display here.

On the way up the grand staircase our guide pointed out fossils in the marble.

On the upper landing we entered the Gallery of Busts which contains busts of many famous composers including Bellini

and Mozart.

Also in the Gallery of Busts is a statue by a German artist. It is made from a single block of marble and is titled “The Secret” depicting Cupid whispering into his mother Venus’s ear. Overall, the statue serves as an allegorical centerpiece. Amid the historical, commemorative portraits of composers, the mythological sculpture reminds viewers of love’s unpredictable, powerful, and mysterious influence, a fitting subject for an opera house where passion and drama unfold on stage.

There are more statues of cupids on the crown moldings; muses for the music.

The detail work in the crown molding is truly impressive.

From the Gallery of Busts is a view of the Main Foyer below.

On this level the Parisian stained glass can be appreciated from a closer vantage.

Next we entered the Golden Hall. The chandeliers are from Argentina, made of bronze, and have 222 light bulbs each.

Lucia pointed out that the lower half of the columns are painted gold

whereas the upper half are actually 24c gold leaf.

The sofas are 200 years old.

All of the furniture are museum pieces.

Finally we entered a typical 6 seat box

to the auditorium. The main hall can seat approximately 2,500 spectators, with additional standing room for about 500 more. 

The boxes up front are usually reserved for officials and VIPs who want to be seen. There are black windows that can be placed in front for those who do not wish to be seen, eg widows in mourning.

This horseshoe-shaped hall is the heart of the theater, featuring stunning allegorical ceiling frescoes and an impressive, 2,866 lb chandelier, which can be lowered to change the 722 bulbs. (Actually, Lucia told us, they are not real frescoes but faux fresque, a technique that involves applying a painting onto a canvas and then transferring it to a wall or ceiling to achieve the appearance of a traditional, hand-painted mural or scene, such as a fresco.) 

The orchestra pit holds 80 musicians and can be elevated to the same level as the stage. There is room for up to 18 more musicians under the balcony for special effects.

The Teatro Colón’s design, with its dome and horseshoe-shaped hall, contribute to its reputation as one of the best concert and opera venues in the world, especially with regards its acoustics. There are resonance chambers, hollow sound boxes, beneath every soft seat.

A closer look reveals a hollow box beneath an opening, similar to a guitar, for example.

The Teatro Colón is between the wide 9 de Julio Avenue, from which we arrived, and  Libertad Street on which is the main entrance, though which we departed. We found ourselves on Plaza Lavalle. In 1856, the Parque Station was installed here, the head of the first railway line in Argentina, on the site where the Teatro Colón was later built. Looking around us we saw Mirador Massué, an old obeservation deck built as part of a 1909 construction designed by the architect Alfred Massué. Art nouveau influences can be seen in the curving facade and the use of iron and floral designs.

Right next to the theater is an impressive looking primary school built in 1903.

In the center of the park is a statue of Juan Lavalle (1797-1841) who was an Argentine military and political figure and former governor of Mendoza Province.

Behind the statue stands the Corte Suprema de Justicia de la Nación ( Supreme Court of Justice of the Nation). 

We decided to head toward the capital building. Along the way we passed Palacio Borolo (The 
Barolo Palace), an office building that opened in 1923 and, at the time, was the tallest in the city.

As we approached the capital we saw one of many official authorized casts of “The Thinker” by Auguste Rodin in the Plaza del Congreso (Congressional Plaza), a central public space in the Montserrat neighborhood of Buenos Aires. 

 Situated at the western end of Avenida de Mayo and located in the Montserrat neighborhood, Plaza del Congresso (Congress Square) is part of a group of three plazas located in the same area, next to Plaza Lorea and Plaza Mariano Moreno. The construction of these plazas was an urban development designed to coincide with the celebrations of the centennial of the May Revolution and responded to the hygienic thinking of the late 19th century , which rightly sought ventilated and sunny spaces in large cities.

Monumento a los Dos Congresos (Monument of the Two Congresses), inaugurated on July 9, 1914, is surrounded by a staircase that gives access to the platform, on which stands the monument crowned by a statue representing the Republic with a laurel branch in one hand and the other resting on the guide of a plow; at its feet are the serpents of evils and another figure representing Labor. The eastern platform is surrounded by a fountain with large jets, between which appear sculptures of horses surrounded by bronze condors and children representing Peace. The fountain extends to the east, and represents the Rio de la Plata and its tributaries. The pool is surrounded by sculptures of animals from the national fauna and in its center arises a sculptural group built in bronze.

The Palacio del Congreso de la Nación Argentina (Palace of the Argentine National Congress), constructed between 1898 and 1906, is a national historic landmark. The palace is in Neoclassical style, largely made of white marble with elaborately furnished interiors.

On the plaza is also the senate building: Senado de la Nacion (Senate of the Nation). The Senate has 72 members, with three elected from each of Argentina’s 23 provinces and three from the Autonomous City of Buenos Aires.

There we also found a building which houses the Centro de la Memoria, el Amor y la Resitencia (Center of Memory, Love and Resistance) with a picture of the white scarf worn by “Las Madres” (The mothers of the Dirty War).

In neighboring Plaza Moreno is a statue of Mariano Moreno (1778-1811) inaugurated on October 1, 1910. Moreno was an Argentine lawyer, journalist, and politician. He played a significant role in the movement for Argentina’s independence from Spain and a decisive role in the Primera Junta, the first national government of Argentina, created after the May Revolution. 

We then headed back to Plaza de Mayo to get a glimpse of Casa Rosada without all the fencing surrounding it.

We walked around to the back of Casa Rosada and crossed the street to the Liberator Building, home to the Ministerio de Defensa (Ministry of Defense), one of the oldest ministries in the Argentine government, having existed continuously since the formation of the first Argentine executive in 1854.

In the plaza in front of the building is a statue of a soldier: a memorial to those who died in the Faukland War.

In January 2023, a commemoration plaque was placed to mark the 40th anniversary of the 1982 Falklands War, paying tribute to the veterans and fallen soldiers. Argentina claims the islands, which it calls Islas Malvinas (“Malvinas” is the Spanish name for the Falkland Islands), and disputes the UK’s sovereignty. The dispute escalated in 1982 when Argentina invaded the islands, resulting in the Falklands War. Having not participated directly in either world war, the Falkland War accounts for the largest loss of soldiers’ lives in Argentina since the revolution. The Malvinas (Falklands) War directly accelerated the collapse of Argentina’s military dictatorship, which was already facing economic decline and public opposition. The disastrous and humiliating loss of the 74-day conflict in 1982 eroded the junta’s credibility, leading to mass protests at home and international condemnation. This ultimately forced the military leadership to cede power and announce a transition to democratic elections, which occurred in 1983. 

From across the street we had a good view of the back of Casa Rosada.

We crossed to Puerto Madero. Laura had told us that the area was once Buenos Aires’ second port (after La Boca), built in the late 19th century. However, the port was too shallow and small for modern boats and became obsolete after only 25 years, leading to the area being an urban wasteland, and the port was moved to its third and current location. The Puerto Madero land, which is all reclaimed land, is now the most exclusive and expensive in Buenos Aires.

Along the river are museums

and The Puente de la Mujer (Women’s Bridge), inaugurated in December, 2001. The design is a synthesis of the image of a couple dancing tango. It is a 170 m long and 6.2 m wide pedestrian bridge divided into three sections: two fixed sections on either side of the dike and a mobile section that rotates on a white concrete conical pylon, allowing the passage of boats in less than two minutes.

Also along the way are locks, which have come, throughout the world, to symbolize the everlasting love of the couple who places it.

The prior warehouses have all been converted into boutique shops and restaurants. We lazed away the rest of our last afternoon in one of them sipping beer and reminiscing about how much we have loved our visit to Argentina. We topped it off with a last gelato in the famous Luccianos’ right by our hotel.

Our visit to Argentina’s wine countries started in Mendoza, home to more than 800 wineries. The region around Greater Mendoza is the largest wine-producing area in South America.  As such, Mendoza is one of the eleven Great Wine Capitals. For the first time we had a connecting flight. When the bad weather delayed our flight, we were concerned about the connection in Cordoba. It turns out our same plane was flying to Mendoza, so no worries, phew. We landed in Mendoza airport late in the evening after a long day of delays and were picked up by Max. While driving Max explained a bit about Mendoza, the capital city of the province. With a population of over a million, it is the fourth largest city in Argentina. Before the 1560s the area was populated by tribes known as the Huarpes and Puelches.  The Huarpes devised a system of irrigation that was later developed by the Spanish. This allowed for an increase in population that might not have otherwise occurred. There are less than 8 inches of rain a year. The water to the city comes via the Mendoza River from the snow melt in the Andes. The system is still evident today in the wide acequias (trenches), which run along all city streets, watering the approximately 100,000 trees that line every street in Mendoza. This system had been used for irrigation for vineyards and other agriculture produce in the area until recently; a new automated drip irrigation system is currently in use for agriculture. After about a 20 minute drive from the airport which bypassed the city proper, we arrived at our new home-away: Verde Oliva.

There they took pity on our late arrival and offered to bring us dinner on our own little terrace, what luxury.

In the morning, after a delicious breakfast, Max, our driver, plus our guide Francisco picked us up and explained that not only did we arrive in the middle of harvest, but today was the first day of the harvest festival (as well as being International Women’s Day). To celebrate the harvest even McDonald’s offered a meal that came complete with a glass of wine. We headed for our first winery, Bodega Benegas in the Luján de Cuyo region of Mendoza. The Luján de Cuyo region is known as The Cradle of Malbec. Surrounded by gentle hills and overlooked By America’s highest mountains, Lujan de Cuyo is known for its country houses, tree lined streets, fine restaurants, Malbec vineyards, olives and world renowned wineries. Francisco pointed out the adobe structure, common to the area.

The winery guided tour started in the courtyard.

The building is an historical landmark of Mendoza, built in 1901 by Agustin Álvarez, former Governor of Mendoza. Much of it was destroyed during a 1985 earthquake along with about 70% of the homes at the time. Federico Benegas Lynch bought it in 1999, and made a 5 year restoration, keeping its original design, including the adobe walls and concrete wine vats, but adding state-of-the-art technology. She explained that the family continues to use the buildings as a home. We entered their patrician style living and dining rooms.

The dining table was made from a single very tall tree imported from Brazil.

Federico Benegas Lynch also has a passion for ponchos, each made by hand in traditional colors. which he collects and displays. Beneath are family photos.

In keeping the winery part of the family, each wine is named for one of his children.

Federico Benegas Lynch, fourth generation of winemakers, grew up accompanying his father in the production of wines in El Trapiche. After the dissolution of the company during the economic crisis of the 70s, he went to live in Buenos Aires. He subsequently studied viticulture in France and discovered a family connection with the Lynches there. His passion for Mendoza and for wine made him return in search of recovering the family legacy. That is how in 1999 he had the opportunity to buy Finca Libertad, an old vineyard planted by his great-grandfather Don Tiburcio, who had been one of the founders of wine production in Mendoza in 1883. The first harvest of this new winery, Bendegas, was in 2001. On display here is his grandfather’s diary.

We then entered the winery itself. This is harvest season and grapes are coming into the facility. The first process is the sorting of the grapes, which is done by hand. Only the best 20% are chosen, the remaining 80% are exported, to maintain the status of boutique winery. The chosen ones then go to a de-stemmer.

The grapes are then placed into a crusher, which works by inflating a balloon. As mentioned above, during the restoration, the original concrete tanks were maintained for fermentation. The one shown below in the far right even has the original wooden door. The hoses are pumps for mixing during the maceration process.

With over 800 wineries to choose from, there is competition for tourists. Bendegas prides itself in its history. They have a little museum containing everything from the original de-stemmer,

to the crusher,

to the original pump, which had to be cranked by hand,

and the original delivery wagon. In years past the average Mendozan consumed much more wine than today, even the children. The wine would get delivered from this large barrel with the customers providing their own 5 liter jug for filling.

The loads of grapes once harvested were so heavy, they had to be pulled by oxen rather than horses.

The wine cellar is 60 feet underground with walls of 6 feet thick to maintain the constant temperature of 63 degrees F. The French oak barrels are used only four times.

The wine is sent down to them via a hole into the room with the concrete tanks above.

Once bottled, the wines are stored in the cellars in rooms that were originally tanks themselves.

as evident by the hole above

and the outlet below

And now it was time for our tasting. Although we have visited many wineries in our days together, we always manage to pick up some new tidbit of info each time. Here we learned that the depth of the indentation at the bottom of the bottle as well as the thickness of the glass are indicators of how long the wine is expected to age in the bottle; the former to allow sedimentation, the latter for preservation.

The wines in Mendoza use French varieties and do not require grafting onto American roots because due to the low humidity in the valley, they are not susceptible to phylloxera. Malbec is the star of the Mendoza region. The valley’s hot days and cold nights make for very thick-skinned grapes giving the Malbec wine its deep rich color. The soil is rocky, requiring deep roots, which gives the wine its mineral taste. But the star of the Benegas winery is the cabernet franc produced from the wineries oldest vines aged 120 years. The Benegas Lynch, of which only 5,000 bottles are produced a year, can last 20-40 years.

Along the way to the next winery, Francisco told us that the region’s agriculture is not only wine but also corn, garlic, peaches, plums, pistachios, and of course, olive oil. Many of the wineries also produce their own olive oil. Also, although rain is infrequent, there can be severe hail storms as well as dust storms brought in by the sonda winds. A storm lasting only a few minutes can wipe out an entire season’s harvest. Many of the plants are protected by netting which could be observed in many of the groves we passed.

When we reached our next winery, we were greeted first by a 100 year-old olive tree.

Winery number two for us was Tempus Alba in the neighboring Maipú region of Mendoza. Maipu is the first viticultural area in Argentina, chosen by the first European immigrants to continue their most beloved family tradition: wine making.

While we waited a few minutes for our tour to begin, Francisco (left) and Max (right) posed for my blog so I could make them famous, little do they know how tiny my readership is, lol.

Tempus Alba winery was founded by two Italian families that wanted to create the “true” Argentinian Malbec. In 2007 they studied 364 genetic varieties and chose three plants as their “mother” plants. They use a micropropagation system with the buds in jars of agar. The buds are then adapted to their environment for planting. One bud may produce 5-10 plants. A three year-old vine will produce grapes, but they are not used for wine making until the plant is five.

They have planted only about 0.5 square miles of grape vines surrounded by their 100 year-old olive trees. Seventy-five percent of their grapes are exported.

The vines are wrapped in netting to protect them from hail.

The grapes are harvested by hand and collected in a basket.

Once selected, de-stemmed, for the red wines, the crushed grapes are left in contact with the skins and seeds for 25-30 days, a process called maceration, then filtered. The solid waste is use later for fertilizer. (For white wines, the skin and seeds are discarded immediately. For rosé, they are left for a much shorter period of time.) During maceration cold water is run through a jacket in the outer wall of the tank to minimize fermentation, which would mean malic acid transforming into lactic acid.

Maceration usually takes place in a steel tank, but sometimes an egg is used. Because of the shape, the egg does not require a pump to allow the mixing of the contents.

Also, the egg is coated on the inside with an epoxy paint which prevents the wine from picking up flavors from the vessel. Interestingly, at Benegas earlier they had praised the benefit of their concrete tanks because they do add mineral flavors to the wine. Each wine maker has his/her preferences.

After filtration, the wines are then rested 6-10 months to allow the sediments to settle before transferring them to barrels for fermentation. Tempus Alba also only use their oak barrels four times, but they use both French and American oak depending on the desired result. The former are more closed-pore than the latter. The more open the pores, the more surface exposed, the the bigger and bolder the flavors.

Once discarded, used barrels are repurposed as furniture.

We went onto the deck for our tasting. Here we learned that the closer the “legs” of the wine on the glass as it is swirled, the higher the alcohol content.

Also paying tribute to their children and grandchildren, the winemakers include the children’s fingerprints on their labels. The winemakers find that today wines using blends of varieties have become more popular that the traditional single varietal wines. The Vero (True) wine is their signature wine produced from their propagated plants. We tried all three. below.

As we left, I had to take a picture of the entrance door handle, which I loved.

At our third and final stop of the day, Restaurante Santa Julia (serving wines of Zuccardi), a tour was not included; lunch was the focus. Our first course was served outside,

their white from the Argentinian torrontés grapes,

with homemade empanadas.

Back inside the restaurant we enjoyed a course of breads and their own olive oils

and a red

served with fresh tomatoes, mustard greens with fried sweet potato chips accompanying asado. Asado is an Argentinian tradition of slow grilling over a fire several meats together, often goat, lamb, and sausage, as served here.

The next course included another red

served with filet mignon, smoked eggplant covered in palenta, and a green salad with pistachio clusters.

At this point we were so stuffed we needed a walk before dessert. We strolled out under the Malbec vines covered in a different hail protection netting.

We noted the elevated drip irrigation system.

We also noted these, which we were to find out later are metal barrels with wood beneath for a fire for warmth should the temperature drop to a cold level that would endanger the plants.

The bougainvillea was in full bloom. What a beautiful day.

Finally we returned for our dessert wine served with choices of cheeses from cows and sheep, several fruit jams, and flan with dulce de latte (cream caramel). No wonder Argentinians go for a siesta after lunch! We were done for the day.

The next day was Sunday, and we enjoyed the respite. We debated going into Mendoza City for a look around, but decided to enjoy the day relaxing by the pool and enjoying our resort instead.

Eric sent his drone up for some pictures of the property.

In the morning we were back to wine tasting. We set out for Valle de Uco, known for its high-altitude vines and microclimate ideal for viticulture, as well as its stunning backdrop of the high Andes. This region features some of Argentina’s most acclaimed wineries producing Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Semillon. Uco Valley is too cold for olive trees, but it is the capital of walnut trees in the country. Our first stop was Masi Winery, an organic winery.

Masi can be found at the foot of the Tupungato volcano in mineral rich soil. It is owned and operated by a 7th generation family of Italian winemakers who have been reproducing their family’s techniques in the Uco Valley for 26 years. They have about 270 acres in production, a mid-sized operation. Most of the wine produce, as much as 90%, is exported to Canada.

First we were shown some of the herbs grown like penca.

The leaf of the jarilla plant is very good for a sick stomach.

The emblematic grapes of the Venetian regions, Corvina and Pinot Grigio, co-exist happily at Masi Tupungato with the traditional Argentinian grapes, Malbec (from France) and Torrontés (uniquely Argentinian), in a unique and extraordinary natural paradise.

They were in the process of harvesting while we were visiting, all picked by hand. What is unique to Masi in Argentina is they have brought their Italian method of drying grapes: appassimento. Red grapes only are left to dry for 2 weeks here in Argentina (2 months in humid Northern Italy). During the appassimento process, the grapes will dry and concentrate, reducing water by 20%, while also reducing acidity.

The cane used, from the stalks of sugar cane plants, is similar to bamboo from Brazil.

Only once the grapes have dried are the stems then removed and the grapes pressed.

For maceration Masi uses 60 steel tanks from Italy, which are all automatic and do not require pumping for mixing.

The jacket within for temperature control can be seen.

Another winemaking practice imported from the Valpolicella region of Italy is use of the 600-litre (about 160 gallons) French oak barrel for aging, for 2-18 months, depending on the grape.

The wine ages in the steel tank for 2 years after first aging in the French oak barrels. The largest tank is 100,000 liters (about 26,500 gallons)!

We got to taste the wine straight from a tank.

The wines produced are mostly mixtures like the Paso blanco, which is 60% pinot and 40% torrontes, 12% alcohol.

and the Corbec, which is the star of Masi and aged 18 months in the oak barrels, is 70% Corvina and 30% Malbec, 15% alcohol.

We got a peak at the mixing lab on our way out.

Our next winery in the Uco Valley, at an elevation of 4265 feet, was Andeluna, named for the mountains from which they get their water and the moon above.

The vines were first planted in 1997, but the winery was founded in 2003 by Ward Lay (of Pepsico/Lays). In 2013 it was taken over by a Brazilian oil family.

Here too the Topungato Volcano stands above the vineyards. At nearly 200 acres of planted grapes, it is a midsized winery.

There are three important ingredients that make the final aroma of the wine: the grape, the soil, and the wood used for the barrels. This vineyard sits at the base of the volcano and gets most of its fertile soil from there,

but it also has alluvial soils that were part of the sea bottom 100 million years ago. Four distinct layers of soil can be seen in the calicata below, all of which enhance the flavors of the wines.

Here we also learned how to distinguish the grape by its leaf:a caberntet savignon has 5 pointy segments; a cabernet franc has 5 rounded segments, and a Malbec has only three segments. The leaves below belong to a cabernet savignon. It takes 5-6 plants for 1 bottle of wine.

The high altitude makes for warm days and cool nights with as much as a 50-60 degree difference in temperature, which makes for thick skinned grapes, which enhances their flavor. The grapes here are harvested by machine. Unlike in the Maipú and Lujan de Cuyo regions, the plants here are grafted onto American roots.

Pods are used on grapevines to disrupt mating by Lobesia botrans, a common moth pest in vineyards. These pods release female pheromones, which confuse male moths, preventing them from finding and mating with females. A single moth could consume an entire plant.

Drip irrigation is used to maintain proper water levels.

The stainless steel tanks for maceration are sterile. The process takes two weeks.

The clarification process of removing the stems and seeds uses a decanter then animal enzymes are added for fermentation; for vegan wines carbon fillers are used. Andaluna uses a variety of barrels (all French oak) and eggs to ferment the wine depending on the grape and the desired effect. Interestingly, Argentina does not regulate what wines can be considered a reserve; it is up to the individual winemaker to determine.

After a tasting of the Andeluna wines, we headed to Gaia restaurant for lunch.

The view from our table was spectacular.

Again, the Tupungato Volcano was visible.

There we also had a view of Cerro El Plata, the highest peak of the Cordón del Plata, which is a subrange of the Andes. The mountain is located 37 miles west of Mendoza.

At Gaia we enjoyed another multi-coarse meal with accompanying wines starting with fresh tomatoes,

and smoked eggplant

followed by meat

and finally panacotta with sorbet.

Clearly the eating and drinking in Argentina are well worth the trip.